1959 Overlander Restoration

[65CV]

Really busy week getting everything wrapped up so we are ready for Colin.

We agreed that I'd mark the locations of holes through the floor for drains and vents. I do NOT want to mess this one up. We marked the location of the ribs with blue tape and put furniture back in place. Finally, I went under the trailer -- bellypan is off -- and drilled from underneath to be sure we won't hit frame members. The circle in the center of the picture is the location of the 1 1/2" drain below the sink.

It's surprising how little room there is for error. I'm glad I didn't try doing this with a drawing. We marked the other locations the same way.

For some reason, my pics seem to be upside down. The blue tape at the top is the location of the frame member. The shiny part on the bottom is the wheel well and the brown parts are part of the galley. The drain location is a circle cut from luan plywood with a through bolt to below. When Colin's guys flip the floor, it will locate the drain exactly.

[65CV]

Scaffolding is back up again. We put in a Fantastic Vent in the aft 14x14 opening, but that is needed to remove the shell.

Dragging and dropping a vent from the aft to middle opening is easier said than done.

We will have 2 Fantastic Vents and one Astradome when all is said and done. Right now, we need to leave the forward and aft openings clear for lifting the shell.

That's James in the picture. He's a great young man who isn't afraid to work and doesn't mind polishing. He's done an amazing job on the first cut!

[65CV]

This is the kind of picture that every Airstream Restorer should get by text when away for the day.

The top had 50 years of oxidation. This is how James made it look after a couple of hours of compounding with the Jesco System and -- on the roof -- black bar from Caswell.

BTW, I'm convinced that Jesco for first cut is best. We tried Nuvite F7 and F9 and they were no where near as effective on heavy oxidation.

My test spot of Caswell Black, Jesco Grey, F7 then C looks terrific. I was worried that the black compound might be to aggressive, but it wasn't on my trailer the way we applied it. This pic shows black only, not the finer finish.

We still have more to do to make the first cut look even all the way around. I really wish we started with Jesco right away!

[65CV]

We've finished the overhead lighting so that we can put the final layer of Prodex on top of the spacers between the first and second layer. We're going to let the wiring be cushioned between.

I'll try to post finished wiring diagrams. Here's the first finished one -- the LED circuit. It should handle all of 1 amp if most of the lights are on. It's 16 gauge, two strand wire. I don't trust using the trailer as ground. I've also added a copy of the furniture diagram to match up the lights for those interested.

We had great luck reading with these Swego Lights during many nights in the Caravel. I wish I could find a less expensive version. We're using these over the beds and in the forward dinette.

Final pic is of the soldered, ready to be shrink wrapped wiring. I used 16 ga Lamp cord. I am not an electrician and make no representation or warranty whatsoever for suitability for your application, etc, etc, etc.

I found a 250 foot roll at Home Cheapo for about $60 bucks. Bought grommets from Fastenal to support the wire through existing holes.

[65CV]

Leaks!

Last but not least. Leaks.

Our hometown made national news for flooding last week. I thought we had solved the leaks in the forward and rear seven panel domes, but we haven't. We sealed it well from the inside and hoped to do the dental picks and Acryl-R seam sealing this winter down south. Looks like that will happen this week.

Seems like finding leaks is like playing Whack-A-Mole. Seal one and it moves somewhere else!

I swear that I've sealed them up and it seems like we find even more.

[Becky B.]

Originally Posted by 65CV

Leaks!

Last but not least. Leaks.

Our hometown made national news for flooding last week. I thought we had solved the leaks in the forward and rear seven panel domes, but we haven't. We sealed it well from the inside and hoped to do the dental picks and Acryl-R seam sealing this winter down south. Looks like that will happen this week.

Seems like finding leaks is like playing Whack-A-Mole. Seal one and it moves somewhere else!

I swear that I've sealed them up and it seems like we find even more.

I had the same stinking thing happen! Only I've also sealed the outside & I just sprang a new one. They're sooooo annoying!!!

[65CV]

I tried unsuccessfully to seal all the endcap leaks from the inside using Alcoa Gutter Seal. After more polishing than planned, I used Acryl-R on all the exterior seams on both endcaps. It finally sealed everything. The endcaps were the source of the worst leaks and worst floor rot in the trailer.

Still fighting some leaks lower down, but I think I have them all identified and all are sealed on the upper half. Had an interesting conversation with Colin about putting drain holes in the base of the new c-channel in case of leaks. He convinced me that frequent leak checking is a much better approach. We won't be putting holes to allow draining to the bellypan in the new floor.

We finished insulating the upper half with the double layer of Prodex, using two air spaces. The difference between the uninsulated and single layer is very dramatic in the afternoon sun. The difference between one layer and two is minor, but definitely perceptible. I'm looking forward to seeing how it does in very cold and very sunny temps. Again, our insulation package is aluminum-airspace-prodex-airspace-prodex-airspace-aluminum. Installing gets easier with practice, but it will probably add up to a full week's work when all the insulation is finished. I really hope it's worth it!

Finished the overhead 12v wiring for lights and 110v for the center light and potentially an overhead A/C. We debated about 12v lighting only, but thought we might keep a couple of 110v lights for use if the batteries are removed for winter storage. I still like the light given off by old fashioned Edison bulbs, used sparingly.

[65CV]

I really wish I had remembered to do one thing -- after removing the upper panels and before removing the fiberglass end caps, mark the hidden rivets! It will help tremendously in reinstalling them. See the spots circled in red. These rivets will hole up the fiberglass while you install the ceiling panels.

BTW, we found that we could only get one layer of Prodex with spacers under the endcaps.

[65CV]

We've struck out on restoring much of the interior. It started with the failure of the aluminum water tank. My son was able to weld shut the original leak, but we discovered a lot more potential leaks with the ice pick. The threads were suspect too, so we gave up. We have a working compressor, but no source of a good tank. We've ordered the 29 gallon tank from VTS. With 30 gallons of Grey Water Storage, we should never fill them, assuming that a significant amount of water will go to the black tank.

The refrigerator and sink were apparently changed out in the '80s. The kitchen counter was remade and weighted a ton! It's a different formica from the rear vanity sink. Even the rear porcelain sink has rusted through. Given all that, we've decided not to try to do a true restoration.

We have given the old stove to reinergirl. (It was great to meet you and your husband.) It's restorable, but not worth the work if it's the only appliance we're keeping. We're passing on the good bedroom light to nmbosa . If you are restoring and need some parts, let us know. No charge to the right people doing the right type of work. It feels good to thank some of the more helpful people on the forum with stuff they need.

It seemed like a lot of the parts that were metal -- especially near the failed astrodome -- had issues. It should have been a warning to us as we delivered the shell and frame to Colin. (much more on that later)

Here's a picture of the rear porcelain sink. Even that had a hole right through the porcelain and the metal itself. It also had four good dings through the porcelain. BTW, speak quickly if you want this one! I'm assuming no one will want it and it will be recycled shortly.

We're basically at the end of the first chapter of the restoration and have to admit it is now partly a renovation.

We delivered it to Colin in the latter part of October.

[65CV]

The original black tank must have been open for years. It was dry with no "surprises". I bleached the living daylights out of the tank and was able to reach in and scrub the inside before working on it. Since it had a 2" gate valve glassed in as a dump valve, we needed to change it. There were several attempts to repair leaks in the dump valve area, so I cut out about a full square foot.

We're going with a Valterra valve, which is much larger, so we had to move the drain a few inches to the left. I made up another flange like I did on the Caravel to mate with the Valterra valve.

I documented the fabrication of our Caravel Black Tank here, starting at Post 32. I won't go into much detail here. I swear by West Systems Epoxy and always use the pumps to get the right mix.

The pics show the cutout from the bottom, the parts that I fabricated separately and the finished product. Notice the fiberglass shelf that accepted the new parts. It helped a lot -- it was a single wetted layer of glass that sat on a triple waxed piece of aluminum supported by shims. I bedded the new parts in epoxy and filler to make a thick mix, then glassed over it 4 times with wider and wider glass.

I still have to laugh every time I drive by the UPS Store. Colin asked me to send it up to be sure they locate the hole for the plumbing in the perfect spot.

I just dropped the tank on the UPS scale and asked them to package it. "What do we have here?" the clerk asked. "I repair water tanks" was my only reply.

[65CV]

While the trailer is at Colin's, we've ordered a roomful of stuff, literally. The living room is filled with tanks, pumps, heaters, lights and other assorted parts. As each piece of furniture is finished, it goes there too.

We won't have much time between the time the trailer returns from Colin's and our plans to be in Austin. I want everything staged and ready.

Here is our shopping list, sourced from VTS unless noted otherwise.

Dometic RM 2620 Classic Fridge (pplmotorhomes)
30 lb. Aluminum Tanks
Shurflo Revolution 12v Water Pump
Progressive Dynamics 4045 Converter/Distribution Panel & Fuses
RV500 Water Heater
Hehr Bulb seals and glazing strips
2 Olympic Wave 3 Propane Heaters
LED/Stainless Dome Light as Shower Light (westmarine)
29 Gallon water tank
15x6 JJ 6 on 5.5 black powder coated wheels
baby moon hubcaps (hubcapmike)
Sway / WD (tbd)
floor (tbd)
plywood (home depot)
Michelin LT/X MS 225/70R15 tires (townfairtire)
Zolatone (zolatoneaim) - Custom Mix of 4 colors
POR15
Hondouran Mahogany Veneer (oakwoodveneer)
Sealand lite toilet
oven temp controller (pplmotorhome?)
500 rivets (fastenal)
3 sizes of Grommets (fastenal)
Latex Foam/Polyurethane Foam Sandwich for beds (kttenterprises)
LED Lights (swego)

[65CV]

As each piece of furniture is finished, it is coated so that we have no porous surfaces. We don't want any mold or mildew in the trailer -- I'm allergic.

Colin mentioned a new product that he uses to seal the edge of the plywood in the new floors called Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer. Look carefully and you'll see that there is a cold weather and warm weather formula. Since it's getting a little chilly in New England, the cold weather formula is a perfect fit for our needs. I'm using it to seal all the surfaces of the repaired furniture except for the Honduran Mahogany veneer and solid wood.

We plan to install the rear bath, beds, fridge and a temporary sink before our trip down south. That furniture is almost finished.

Since it's getting pretty chilly at night, the end of the kitchen has even turned into a glueing station. The first picture shows that there are never enough clamps in the kitchen. The second picture is the knocked down beds and drawers getting a coat of CPES before reassembly. It takes all of 2 hours at 55 degrees to dry. So much faster than Tung Oil!

[65CV]

While on the topic of helpful products, I'd like to share Marinco Cable Tie Mounts. I've found them to be great for wire and plumbing. Just mount them with a #8 screw and you can tie things down well. Here's a pic of my wiring with a cable tie mount sitting unused on the horizontal shelf. There is also one tying the wiring on the vertical support, behind the black cable tie.

With wire secured well, protected by grommets as it passes through aluminum and housed in a shallow electrical box, I don't expect it to abrade like some of the original Airstream wiring.

[65CV]

The last good product to mention is a great idea from Frank (62overlander). There is nothing like the look of a hand rubbed finish and the mahogany in this trailer just loves at least three coats of Oil finish. Unfortunately, the Oil finishes cure slowly in cold weather.

Frank suggested Japan Dryer in post 115 of the linked thread. It is a great idea that will allow us to get the number of coats we need. One coat absorbs unevenly into the wood and does not look good.

The mahogany veneer with the first coat of oil finish really starts to show a lot of promise. I hope that we can match that look with the newer veneer.

Notice the difference between oiled and unoiled veneer. BTW, the large drawers go below the bed and the smaller ones belong to the rear vanity -- lavanette in '50s speak.

[65CV]

On to Colin's at the end of October. Pics at the end show how we marked the locations for tanks, being very careful to position furniture before specifying locations. The first picture is mine, showing a circular piece of plywood screwed into the floor where we want the vent. The furniture was in place for the last time on the old floor. The second picture was sent by Colin, confirming locations. It is upside down compared to the first. The wheel well is visible in the top of one and the bottom of the other.

I've learned the hard way that you can't drag and drop hole locations once they've been drilled!

Here is the scope of work that we agreed upon with Colin:

- 2 New Axles with Electric Brakes
- Rotisserie Restoration of Frame, including frame within frame insert
- Angle Iron Reinforcement of front outriggers to support larger fresh water tank
- New Plywood floor with CPES Epoxy edge sealing
- Spare Tire Holder, moving frame rail and inserting 1-by support rail
- Bumper Trunk
- Hitch Receiver on rear of trailer
- 4 floor penetrations in marked locations for:

- Black tank
- Aft sink
- 2 1.5" Grey Tank Vents

- 2 15 gallon Grey Tanks
- drain plumbing connecting grey tanks and aft sink to Valterra dump valve
- Valterra Dump Valve Plumbing for Black Tank
- Refrigerator Vent through Floor
- Running 4 ga wire across trailer, aft of wheel wells to connect batteries
- New 7 Pin trailer wiring
- Breakaway Switch
- Safety Chains
- Repair, if possible, the dent in forward, curbside endcap

[65CV]

When we delivered the trailer to Colin's, he was wrapping up work on a trailer that will go in the atrium of a corporate office at Kimberly Clark. He had at least a dozen trailers outside, including a very cool 13 panel truck cap conversion. Definitely an interesting tour.

He has a set of work aids that help in the shell off / rotisserie process. Here are pics of:

- the shell lifting off our trailer, supported by the gantry
- the shell separated from the frame and floor
- the frame and floor flipped upside down on work tables

Every work aid is on wheels, so large, heavy parts can be moved easily around the shop. Clever.

[65CV]

While Colin was delivering the Kimberly Clark trailer, Reed and the guys pulled the shell and discovered that there were three major areas of rot. The tongue was replaced by the previous owner, a warning sign of more rot. The area below the front window was rotted far more than I realized. It was so bad that the front plate fell off. The area around the steps was shot from leaks beneath the door and the astrodome. The rear frame wasn't attached and had been drilled through in the rear with 2 1/2" holes that just rotted away.

I expected to have the rear 1/3 replaced and planned to sleeve the front with a box frame insert. I also expected extensive rebuild amidships, especially near the step, which was completely rotted. We were ready for extensive frame work. I didn't expect the phone call from Colin to discuss the option of a full frame replacement.

With three major areas of rot, caused by the front and rear window leaks and the missing astrodome, well over half the frame was shot. Sleeving it would add quite a bit of weight and was really a preventive step to stop a catastrophic failure. Building a new frame of 1/8", or .125 steel rather than a rotted .090 inch steel started to make more and more sense. We'll have a stronger frame than original and, most important, one we trust.

We agreed to go forward with a new frame.

Colin will seal all openings and spin the frame after pouring old enamel paint inside so that the new frame will never rot from the inside out. They will acid wash the exterior of the finished product, then coat with POR-15.

Pictures follow. I was quite surprised that the forward plate came free and that the frame was so ready to fail right there!

[65CV]

Here are pics of the new frame going together, using the old frame as a model. They modified the angle of the a-frame forward to accommodate the newer standard for 2 5/16" hitches, which also makes room for our larger size spare tire holder. We're going to stick with the Michelins.

We have a dual axle trailer, so the axle plate has one in place and one notch for the next axle location.

[65CV]

In addition to the spare tire holder, we've added two other options -- a bumper trunk and a rear hitch receiver that we plan to use for a bike rack.

OK, I'll confess. It's not really for a bike rack. It's to transport another trailer full of Shiner Bock back to Connecticut where they still don't sell it.

[Becky B.]

W.O.W.!!! That's a lot of things to be going around in your mind! My stock pile was pretty big too. It's really nice when it starts to dwindle down! Keep up the good work (and enjoy the fact that Colin is doing a lot of the nasty stuff!)