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Old 08-25-2012, 11:28 AM   #141
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That's too bad your TV had a mechanical but at least you were able to get some camping in.
Better luck next time.
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Old 08-25-2012, 12:50 PM   #142
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Been there...

Quote:
Originally Posted by 65CV View Post
Bummer.

Spent several days getting ready for what I hoped would be 10 days of Rallying and camping.

A little over half way to the rally, the transmission blew! The Overlander spent over a week in a parking lot in the middle of New Hampshire. After waiting for the repair, work and a family party, we managed to have just 3 days of camping.

At least the weather was perfect.
So sorry!! It makes me think of our Thanksgiving trip!
1959 Airstream Overlander, "Someday": Swampsgiving
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Old 08-25-2012, 03:26 PM   #143
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Yikes! Sorry to hear about the transmission. I guess it was better to do it there than, say, in the middle of a big prairie in South Dakota.

Thanks for the picture of the campsite - I was wondering if a 26' trailer would fit there

Tom
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Old 09-13-2012, 02:17 PM   #144
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Originally Posted by utee94 View Post
...I'm interested in hearing how other solutions work, just for basic knowledge.

Thanks, and can't wait to see your next steps!

-Marcus
Part 2 of my answer...

Marcus -

I decided to do Prodex in multiple layers, using strips to build air gaps. Here's a picture of the base I'm putting down before the first layer. I'm putting strips in one direction below the first full sheet, then in the other direction between the first and second sheets.

I did this on a very sunny day and was amazed at the differences between the bare aluminum and the prodex. Most surprising was the difference between the prodex over prodex versus prodex over air. Where there was a good air gap, the prodex was quite cool. It was surprisingly warmer where it was on top of another layer.

Conclusion -- definitely worth the extra time.

John
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Old 09-13-2012, 02:24 PM   #145
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Before installing insulation, we sealed seams and leak tested. I had good luck using a brass wire brush to clean off the old sealant on the inside seams, then used gutter seal from VTS to seal them. It flows nicely into the seam.

I hooked up the leaf blower to the trailer to leak test it. Drilled yet another hole in the floor to set up a tube as a manometer. With one window unlocked and barely open, I was able to get the 1/2 inch of pressure that is recommended in the SealTech manual. I have seen people ruin small sailboats by using too much pressure to leak test them, so I was a bit cautious.

Thanks to the inspiration in Becky's thread, we now have Hillbilly Leak Testing in Connecticut. It works really well!
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Old 09-14-2012, 10:42 AM   #146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 65CV View Post
Part 2 of my answer...

Marcus -

I decided to do Prodex in multiple layers, using strips to build air gaps. Here's a picture of the base I'm putting down before the first layer. I'm putting strips in one direction below the first full sheet, then in the other direction between the first and second sheets.

I did this on a very sunny day and was amazed at the differences between the bare aluminum and the prodex. Most surprising was the difference between the prodex over prodex versus prodex over air. Where there was a good air gap, the prodex was quite cool. It was surprisingly warmer where it was on top of another layer.

Conclusion -- definitely worth the extra time.

John
65CV,

Please bear with my ignorance, but a question:

What are the "strips" made of? Are they prodex, too? Are your strips the lighter-colored pieces in the photo with rectangles cut out of the middle?

I read back in your thread but couldn't figure it out. Sorry, and thanks!

Vivian
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Old 09-14-2012, 09:11 PM   #147
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Vivian,

They are 2-3" wide strips, cut from Prodex. We cut over 100 of them and glued them to the trailer walls with PL Adhesive, a Locktite product. We then adhered full sheets of Prodex to the Prodex strips, capturing an air gap between the outer aluminum skin and the first full layer of Prodex.

Hope that's a little clearer.

John
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Old 09-15-2012, 05:44 AM   #148
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Finally decided how to handle the holes in the end caps where the improperly placed courtesy lights were installed.

Colin had a good suggestion for sealing the 3/8" holes -- carriage bolts.

Here's a closeup of the sealed holes. Two Olympic rivets and a 1/4" Carriage bolt with washers. Another Carriage Bolt is held in the needle nose pliers to show the setup. With enough Vulkem, it worked well.

On Edit: Noticed that the pic is upside down.
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Old 09-15-2012, 05:52 AM   #149
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After all the deconstructing, deskunking, pressure washing, sanitizing, sanding, grinding, sealing, alodining, patching, documenting and planning, the first layer of insulation is in the top half!

Really starting to feel like our trailer.
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Old 09-15-2012, 08:54 AM   #150
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Pretty! I love the monochromatic aluminum look.
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Old 09-15-2012, 10:02 AM   #151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 65CV View Post
Vivian,

They are 2-3" wide strips, cut from Prodex. We cut over 100 of them and glued them to the trailer walls with PL Adhesive, a Locktite product. We then adhered full sheets of Prodex to the Prodex strips, capturing an air gap between the outer aluminum skin and the first full layer of Prodex.

Hope that's a little clearer.

John
Much clearer, thanks John. We have just acquired A/S #6, a '59 Overlander, and will be following your thread closely.

Checked at Lowe's yesterday and they didn't have prodex, just reflectix, is prodex difficult to find?

yours is looking great, must be really a wonderful feeling to get everything CLEAN and FRESH, much less well-insulated!

Vivian
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Old 09-15-2012, 11:12 AM   #152
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Vivian,

#6! I feel like a rookie! Good luck with the resto.

Prodex is available at Insulation for Less : Prodex : Metal Building Insulation : Reflective Insulation : Reflectix : Pole Barn Insulation : Bubble Insulation : Home Insulation : Insulation types : Radiant Barrier : house insulation

Others have pointed out well that the patient buyer can do as well as 1/2 price. Sign up for the newsletter and you'll get notifications of the sales. I prefer the wide roll for easier installation.

John
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Old 09-16-2012, 09:38 PM   #153
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Vivian,

#6! I feel like a rookie! Good luck with the resto.

Prodex is available at Insulation for Less : Prodex : Metal Building Insulation : Reflective Insulation : Reflectix : Pole Barn Insulation : Bubble Insulation : Home Insulation : Insulation types : Radiant Barrier : house insulation

Others have pointed out well that the patient buyer can do as well as 1/2 price. Sign up for the newsletter and you'll get notifications of the sales. I prefer the wide roll for easier installation.

John
John, thanks for the location and tips on price, I'll do my best to take advantage.

We're the rookies: still learning, researching, and lurking. And yes, it was A/S #6, but we haven't even started resto #1 yet (have to wait for my husband to retire). Two were intentional, rational purchases, but the other four just followed me home... (at least, that's what I told my husband). I'm making note of certain particularly helpful, useful, and practical threads, and yours is definitely on my list. Thanks again!

Vivian
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Old 09-16-2012, 09:48 PM   #154
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Angry

Quote:
Originally Posted by 65CV View Post
Before installing insulation, we sealed seams and leak tested. I had good luck using a brass wire brush to clean off the old sealant on the inside seams, then used gutter seal from VTS to seal them. It flows nicely into the seam.

I hooked up the leaf blower to the trailer to leak test it. Drilled yet another hole in the floor to set up a tube as a manometer. With one window unlocked and barely open, I was able to get the 1/2 inch of pressure that is recommended in the SealTech manual. I have seen people ruin small sailboats by using too much pressure to leak test them, so I was a bit cautious.

Thanks to the inspiration in Becky's thread, we now have Hillbilly Leak Testing in Connecticut. It works really well!
Ha! Ha! I hope you found all your leaks! I have sprung another one & have to track it down It sure makes a difference once you have all your insulation in. It's surprising how long it takes to get it all up! Looking great!
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Old 09-20-2012, 06:53 AM   #155
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Pretty! I love the monochromatic aluminum look.
Lynetta,

Since you've seen all the -- um, interesting -- colors when first opening the walls, you probably appreciate it more than most!

John
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Old 09-20-2012, 07:01 AM   #156
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Ha! Ha! I hope you found all your leaks!
I wish we found them all. We did a good job on the end caps and roofline. Didn't insulate any areas with leaks, so we have a couple more top panels.

Finished all but one patch yesterday. Gotta love clecos.

Almost ready for another round of leak tests.

You're not kidding about time consuming!
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Old 10-02-2012, 01:19 PM   #157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 65CV
Finally decided how to handle the holes in the end caps where the improperly placed courtesy lights were installed.

Colin had a good suggestion for sealing the 3/8" holes -- carriage bolts.

Here's a closeup of the sealed holes. Two Olympic rivets and a 1/4" Carriage bolt with washers. Another Carriage Bolt is held in the needle nose pliers to show the setup. With enough Vulkem, it worked well.

On Edit: Noticed that the pic is upside down.
Hey John
What a great idea using the carriage bolts to hide those holes,looks like a giant rivet. Just wondering if they are stainless steel?
Mike
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Old 10-02-2012, 01:29 PM   #158
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Hey John
What a great idea using the carriage bolts to hide those holes,looks like a giant rivet. Just wondering if they are stainless steel?
Mike
I've always used stainless versions. The sheen is a bit different than polished aluminum, but much less obtrusive than a patch.
Colin
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Old 10-02-2012, 02:04 PM   #159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colin H

I've always used stainless versions. The sheen is a bit different than polished aluminum, but much less obtrusive than a patch.
Colin
What an awesome solution! I'll be doing the same on my trailer.
Thanks Colin
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Old 10-03-2012, 05:53 PM   #160
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Mike,

The right size Carriage Bolts aren't available at the big box stores near us. Here are the part numbers from Fastenal. I had some larger i.d. washers to go over the square part of the carriage bolt, so I don't have part numbers for those.

The difference in polish is only noticeable to a pro.

74417 1/4"-20 x 1/2" 18-8 Stainless Steel Round Head Carriage Bolt
70710 1/4"-20 18-8 Stainless Steel Finished Hex Nut
71013 1/4" 18-8 Stainless Steel Small OD Flat Washer

John
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