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Old 05-02-2012, 11:16 AM   #101
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Originally Posted by desertair27 View Post
What's the plan for insulation replacement?
Colin Hyde Trailer Restorations will doing the work at and below the floor. They use reflective insulation against the floor and fiberglass below that.

I'll be doing the walls. I used Reflectix with a styrofoam offset on the Caravel. If I have enough time, I still think it makes sense to have an air gap between the Reflectix and aluminum in the walls. I do want to look at Prodex vs Reflectix, but haven't had the time.
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Old 05-02-2012, 12:12 PM   #102
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Hey John, you're somewhat unique on the Forums because you've used your Caravel in all sorts of climates extremes, hot and cold. In general, how do you think the reflective insulation worked compared to the old standard fiberglass?

I didn't take mine "down to the studs" so I used the pink stuff on what little I replaced, but I'm interested in hearing how other solutions work, just for basic knowledge.

Thanks, and can't wait to see your next steps!

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Old 05-03-2012, 04:31 PM   #103
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Marcus-

We've stayed in as low as 29 degrees or as high as 98. You've probably camped in higher temps living so far south.

We installed one layer of reflectix offset with 3/4" of styrofoam. As predicted in tests by Zep and Malconium, our performance was better in the summer. We never felt a hot interior skin, but we REALLY felt cold when rolling against the inner wall of the trailer in cold weather.

I think the perfect solution is probably a layer of reflectix (or prodex) between two layers of fiberglass insulation. Despite that, I may do what Colin recommends on the VAP, which is to put the reflectix against the outer wall and then the fiberglass inside. We'll see how much time and energy I have at that stage.

(More technical note -- Having taken graduate level thermodynamics, it will be against my religion to put the foil directly against the aluminum -- they are so conductive that you'll lose all the boundary layer effects on one side -- a surprisingly effective part of the insulation system.)

Here's my writeup from the Caravel thread with links to some very good work by Zep and Malconium. There may be better or more updated stuff written since then, but I haven't researched it.

John

<<<-- From "Renovation of a Gutted Caravel" -->>>

The best two threads I found on insulation choices are by Zeppelinium and Malconium. Links are below.

At the risk of oversimplifying a lot of very good work by two bright guys, I viewed the Zep tests as measuring how warm my trailer would stay in the winter while the Malconium tests measured how cool it would stay in the summer. [note: Zep says that there is more radiant heat testing to come].

Our camping definitely leaned towards "cooler in the summer", so we chose Malconium's bubble foil method.

There is so much information in this forum and sometimes it's hard to find. Some of the better information on insulation is in a thread called "Painting your Airstream red". Who woulda thunk?

In the first thread, note especially posts #59 and #82
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f474...red-13363.html
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f46/...cks-30196.html
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f46/...sts-40442.html
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Old 05-24-2012, 11:43 AM   #104
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Plumbing Frustration

Back to it after a couple of weeks of interruptions.

The leak is welded in the aluminum tank, but the threads were so corroded that they cracked when the fitting was heated. Chances of recovering that tank are getting very low.

I tried heating the tub drain for 15 minutes to loosen the pipe dope and it never budged. I ended up cutting off the upper ring on the drain to remove the tub. The trap is still cemented in so hard that it won't budge. The tub had definitely been removed before -- new plumbing lines were well fastened to the wall. Looks like a PO may have left me a present that didn't allow me to remove it cleanly. Thanks to warnings from previous posters, I was able to save the trap.

Speaking of presents... there was a big pile of acorns and insulation behind the tub. Smelled great.
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Old 05-24-2012, 12:12 PM   #105
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Pardon my highjack, but insulation was mentioned.

This thread has my research on insulation. Zep's and Malconium's work were my inspiration.

The mention of Collin Hyde's method for insulation where the foil is against the outer layer would on first glance be as you state, add a conductive layer. But, I think in reality, since he does not secure it against the outer skin, he just wedges it in there, the foil may touch in places, but it there is a lot of air space and not attached, not a great conductive channel.
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Old 05-24-2012, 07:43 PM   #106
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FC7039,

No worries.

Interesting how you folks in Texas are more worried about radiance (staying cooler) than convection (staying warmer).

Funny that we New Englanders worry about staying warmer.

Good thread.

John
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Old 05-24-2012, 07:47 PM   #107
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After removing the tub -- the final piece of furniture -- I sprayed two bottles of enzyme intended to remove cat urine odor.

I just checked the Overlander after tonight's sailboat race. Removing that nest and treating the floor made a massive difference.

That means that I shouldn't have any nesting issues inside the walls, right?
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Old 06-26-2012, 04:28 PM   #108
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Half Way

Officially half way through stripping 5 layers of paint. Miserable work.

What grit sandpaper is recommended for under Zolatone?
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Old 06-26-2012, 04:41 PM   #109
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Miserable work, indeed!
When working on any un-fun task during our restoration one of us often said "It could be worse...we could be stripping paint!"

Keep up the good work!
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Old 06-26-2012, 05:28 PM   #110
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Quote:
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Officially half way through stripping 5 layers of paint. Miserable work.

What grit sandpaper is recommended for under Zolatone?
It's a lot easier to strip & sand these panels when they're out of the trailer.
Colin
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Old 06-27-2012, 07:46 PM   #111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 65CV View Post
. . . What grit sandpaper is recommended for under Zolatone?
I'm assuming you mean in areas where the zolatone is already stripped - I like 220 for sanding metal that is going to be repainted . . .

Thanks for posting your project.
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Old 06-28-2012, 03:40 AM   #112
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It's a lot easier to strip & sand these panels when they're out of the trailer.
Colin
D'oh. My first reaction was that I didn't have room to set up a workspace. I guess I have an empty 26' x 8' workshop, don't I? I'll give that a shot with the smaller ones. I'm going to finish up the big overhead part first.

MarkR -- I wasn't clear -- I was talking about the grit used in sanding the bare metal in preparation for Zolatone painting.

John
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Old 06-28-2012, 06:20 AM   #113
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Quote:
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D'oh. My first reaction was that I didn't have room to set up a workspace. I guess I have an empty 26' x 8' workshop, don't I? I'll give that a shot with the smaller ones. I'm going to finish up the big overhead part first.

MarkR -- I wasn't clear -- I was talking about the grit used in sanding the bare metal in preparation for Zolatone painting.

John
John,
You'll need to take all of the panels off sooner or later anyway, in order to get rid of all that "mouse funk" hiding up there, plus replacing the wiring, seam sealing etc.
Colin
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Old 07-06-2012, 09:06 AM   #114
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Colin,

You're right. It is a little more pleasant doing the panels out of the trailer.

I settled on 150 grit to finish sanding for Zolatone Prep.

John
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Old 07-15-2012, 06:22 PM   #115
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Thank you Thank you thank You

So I have a 1963 Overlander that I picked up about a year ago and well really haven't done much to it. I bought as a shell off and transfered it to my house, (I did not really think about that amount of work it was going to take). The guy i purchased it from did a great job with fixing the frame and he also picked up some new axles and wheels, (Lucky Me)
So now I have the shell back down after having the frame sandblasted and treated the frame. Subfloor down now, and found your post. This is what i have been looking for, thank you so much. I was begining to stress alittle but now that I have read your 59c post and all of the 59O post I have some confidence and will continue to look forward to your new post.
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Old 07-16-2012, 04:21 AM   #116
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Goldmine

lfstarritt-

Welcome to the forums! After you read a bit, I'd definitely encourage you to start a thread. You'll be amazed at the number of helpful comments that will show up.

In the meantime, there is a goldmine of information on this forum. Click here for a thread that has links to a number of major renovations. Click here for the 1958-1963 Overlander Section. When you post your thread, it will belong here, with some of the best Airstreams ever made. You'll find hours of good reading here.

There are also a number of blogs that document Overlander restorations/renovations that I've found very helpful. They will link to a number of other restorations as well. In no particular order, they are:
Austin Aluminitus
Capt. Wilson's Overlander
1959 Airstream Overlander, "Someday"
Anna Lumanum
63overlandermoonraker

Finally, be sure to check out The Vintage Airstream Podcast.

Your renovation will cost at least twice as much and take at least three times as long as planned, but it will be worth it! Hopefully these links will help.

John
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Old 07-19-2012, 08:27 PM   #117
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We just bought a '58 Overlander and I agree with lfstaritt, these threads are really inspiring! I have a LOT of research to do!
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Old 07-23-2012, 04:12 PM   #118
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SpikeC - the inspiration goes both ways. Thanks for the kind words.

Finally, the paint is off and there is only one panel to remove. It's the big one on the ceiling that has to be rolled up and passed through the front window. All the rest are in process of being finish sanded and stored. It's a much longer process doing all the stripping and cleaning first, but I like the idea of having that behind us!
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Old 07-23-2012, 04:17 PM   #119
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Clearance Lights

Can I get a second opinion or two?

This is what the clearance lights looked like when we bought the Overlander. Could these be original? They look like '60s to me.

I'm debating about changing them to the teardrop shape, but they would be quite low, near the front and rear window.

Would you stick with these or change to teardrops?

Also, my understanding is that it should be all amber in the front and all red in the rear, right?

Thanks,

John
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Old 07-23-2012, 04:27 PM   #120
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John,

I doubt those lights are original. I don't think our 1959 trailer's had marker lights on that location from the factory. How big are the holes from the lights on there now? Can you just fill them with rivets and start over with teardrop lights up higher?

Also, on the large center skin on the cealing, I was able to get mine out the door fairly easily by just letting it hang like an upside down taco. I think taking it out the front window would be more difficult.

Norm
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