1959 Overlander Restoration

[utee94]

Ha! That's quite telling.

I didn't have to lay out my VCT to cut it, unfortunately down here in Texico it was plenty warm enough inside the Airstream...

[reinergirl]

If I'm doing everything right then I'm putting on a great show cause it feels like I've done everything twice INCLUDING putting in Fantastic Fans. First time with eternabond second time with butyl tape and Sikaflex 221 ( Thanks, Lewster )

Then there was repainting my hitch again and.......

Queen of doing it twice

But you were very nice to not mention that my polish job was inferior to yours!

AND seriously nice for me (maybe not my neighbors) to have two of these beauty's in my driveway.

PS you're on the road and I'm not..... Enuf said! And I was very impressed with all of your work! Thanks for the help with building a manumeter ( still leaking folks) .

Sputnik and Moonraker will camp together soon, promise!

Originally Posted by 65CV

Thanks Tom, Vernon and Marcus.

Sputnik and Moonraker had a reunion at Shelly's in New Hampshire last week after more than 2 1/2 years.

It was no surprise that Shelly is a great host and has done meticulous work on Moonraker. Her Zolatone finish looks professional. It's interesting to see the contrast in her approach versus ours. She is doing everything right -- in the right order. We pushed hard to get out on the road, and still have a number of things to finish or do better.

Picked up some great new ideas from her as well as a bit more inspiration. Unfortunately, we have to copy her sealing method for the Fantastic vent already. Stuff should't need maintenance until the restoration is finished!

I'm still amazed at the number of details that I have left to wrap up!

[KCN]

How fun for you to get together with Shelly! Your trailers look/leak beautiful together! Keep it up you two - learning lots from both of you.

Kathy

[HiHoAgRV]

I know it will never happen but wouldn't it be cool if all of us Overlander rebuilders could meet sometime.

[65CV]

Retrieved my scaffolding after multiple loans last week and tackled the roof. After only 3 years, the Fantastic Vent and Astradome were leaking. Also, the black corrosion was starting to return to the roof -- it had never really been polished well.

I liked the method first described by Lewster, used by Reinergirl. After removing the vulkem, I laid out two strips of 3/4" Butyl Rubber to bed the fan. I understand that more than one layer is needed on curved parts of the roof. After checking for gaps, I lightly screwed in the flange and trimmed the excess Butyl Rubber. The key to the method is apparently using Silkaflex 221. I removed each screw, filled with 221, screwed it in and covered it with more sealant. Once it was installed, I lined the entire outside with 221. It passed the leak test (more later) with flying colors.

The AstraDome flange didn't leak, it was the gasket. I just need a thicker one to account for the fact that the Ladeux Lifters hold it up a bit higher than expected.

Even with the scaffolding, polishing is difficult. I tried 600 grit wet sandpaper and it a great job removing the old corrosion from the roof top. A final coat of Glass Wax and I'm done for a while.

I hope I didn't make a mistake selling the scaffolding. I just don't have a good place to store it here. Here's my last look at the roof from this high up. You can see that I was liberal with the sealant.

[65CV]

The last time I leak tested (see post 145), the floor had holes in it and I was able to put a leaf blower right through the hole. This time, I had to come up with a better way. It worked so well, I thought I'd document it a little better.

Kudos again to Becky B. for the original idea in this thread.

Here's the setup. Cut an old piece of plywood exactly the size of a screen. Add an access hole for the leaf blower (right side). Add another adjustable hole to the left in case your rig is really tight. Finally, add a u-tube manometer so that you can measure and control the pressure. Pressure should be about 1/2" of water column, which translates to 1/4" on the side you can see. (The other side drops by 1/4" to give the 1/2" total.)

[see first pic]

The SealTech operating instructions give more detail on pressures recommended for different leak sizes. Caution: I've seen boats damaged by overpressurizing — small pressures over large areas can result in strong forces. Start slowly, with the adjustable vent open if you use a strong leaf blower. Close the vent to get the right pressure. If you have an air conditioner and/or fridge vent installed, you probably won't need the left side vent. Unless your trailer is tight, you'll need a strong leaf blower.

Here is the leaf blower attached to a ladder so that the height is correct. Note the rope to hold the ladder from tipping over. Don't ask me how I know.

[see second pic]

The pressure is enough to generate bubbles. I dispersed a strong Joy and water solution with a brush and found leaks fairly easily. Here's the same spot I fixed 3 years ago, where multiple panels join. Leaks appeared at the top and bottom of the seam the runs horizontally in this picture.

[see third pic]

[nmbosa]

That roof looks really clean and ready for winter.

Norm

[Becky B.]

Looks a little more professional than a shoe box, lol! I have one pesky leak in my front window....I might have to rig up the hillbillie Sealtech again! :-)

[reinergirl]

Looking good John! I had those same leaks where the panels met too! If you need scaffolding you can always come borrow mine

Still chasing one leak

[65CV]

I feel like Tim the Tool Man Taylor -- I rewired it!

We originally installed the Progressive Dynamics PD-4045, assuming the "Built-in Charge Wizard" would be able to properly keep our batteries charged while boondocking. We found it it be inadequate for our needs. The Boost mode would not activate until the batteries were discharged to 11.9 Volts, which is well below the 50% discharged state recommended by Lifeline. When running the generator for our allowed 2 hours in the morning, it felt like we were trickle charging without the boost mode. Over several days, we were never able to keep up with our usage and battery voltage dropped. (We use about 25 amp-hours/day -- very little).

I spoke to more than one person at Progressive Dynamics and they said that the unit is hard coded to go into boost mode at 11.9 volts and can't be changed. The most knowledgeable Tech was almost apologetic when discussing the fact that 11.9 Volts is a 25% State of Charge for the Lifeline battery -- it is well below the normal recommended discharge level of 50% and will result in significant battery life. In my humble opinion, the "Built-in Charge Wizard" is worthless.

After several discussions with Randy at BestConverter.com -- with an admitted bias against Progressive Dynamics -- I chose the 60 Amp Boondocker as a replacement. This change requires rewiring the DC Fuse Panel, AC Circuit Breakers and the converter itself. I'm so glad I didn't cut unto the side of the bed to install the PD-4045!

I've attached a pic of the finished wiring and a diagram, in case a future restorer would find them helpful.

[65CV]

At the bottom of the last post, I added the Electrical Diagram. Here's the plumbing diagram. After a few outings, I added 18" of soft vinyl tubing on either side of the pump and added an accumulator. They made a huge reduction in noise level.

[65CV]

Heading out tomorrow morning for 2 full weeks of boondocking in the Arizona desert. Will report back on how everything works, especially the new Boondocker converter.

[utee94]

Hey John, sorry I missed you in January. Please do let me know when you're back through the ATX and I'll make a point to hook up with you. Shiner Bock is on me.

[albert]

Originally Posted by nmbosa

John,

I doubt those lights are original. I don't think our 1959 trailer's had marker lights on that location from the factory. How big are the holes from the lights on there now? Can you just fill them with rivets and start over with teardrop lights up higher?

Also, on the large center skin on the cealing, I was able to get mine out the door fairly easily by just letting it hang like an upside down taco. I think taking it out the front window would be more difficult.

Norm

Thats how I got mine out in ONE giant piece, pulled out in taco formation out the front door. Easy Peasy!

[albert]

I would love to get a 5 minute tutorial from you on this diagram you attached. I dont know what the "sub panel", and a few other questions about your layout... if you have the time to explain.

Thanks!

Originally Posted by 65CV

While the trailer is at Colin's, we've ordered a roomful of stuff, literally. The living room is filled with tanks, pumps, heaters, lights and other assorted parts. As each piece of furniture is finished, it goes there too.

We won't have much time between the time the trailer returns from Colin's and our plans to be in Austin. I want everything staged and ready.

Here is our shopping list, sourced from VTS unless noted otherwise.

Dometic RM 2620 Classic Fridge (pplmotorhomes)
30 lb. Aluminum Tanks
Shurflo Revolution 12v Water Pump
Progressive Dynamics 4045 Converter/Distribution Panel & Fuses
RV500 Water Heater
Hehr Bulb seals and glazing strips
2 Olympic Wave 3 Propane Heaters
LED/Stainless Dome Light as Shower Light (westmarine)
29 Gallon water tank
15x6 JJ 6 on 5.5 black powder coated wheels
baby moon hubcaps (hubcapmike)
Sway / WD (tbd)
floor (tbd)
plywood (home depot)
Michelin LT/X MS 225/70R15 tires (townfairtire)
Zolatone (zolatoneaim) - Custom Mix of 4 colors
POR15
Hondouran Mahogany Veneer (oakwoodveneer)
Sealand lite toilet
oven temp controller (pplmotorhome?)
500 rivets (fastenal)
3 sizes of Grommets (fastenal)
Latex Foam/Polyurethane Foam Sandwich for beds (kttenterprises)
LED Lights (swego)

Originally Posted by 65CV

I feel like Tim the Tool Man Taylor -- I rewired it!

We originally installed the Progressive Dynamics PD-4045, assuming the "Built-in Charge Wizard" would be able to properly keep our batteries charged while boondocking. We found it it be inadequate for our needs. The Boost mode would not activate until the batteries were discharged to 11.9 Volts, which is well below the 50% discharged state recommended by Lifeline. When running the generator for our allowed 2 hours in the morning, it felt like we were trickle charging without the boost mode. Over several days, we were never able to keep up with our usage and battery voltage dropped. (We use about 25 amp-hours/day -- very little).

I spoke to more than one person at Progressive Dynamics and they said that the unit is hard coded to go into boost mode at 11.9 volts and can't be changed. The most knowledgeable Tech was almost apologetic when discussing the fact that 11.9 Volts is a 25% State of Charge for the Lifeline battery -- it is well below the normal recommended discharge level of 50% and will result in significant battery life. In my humble opinion, the "Built-in Charge Wizard" is worthless.

After several discussions with Randy at BestConverter.com -- with an admitted bias against Progressive Dynamics -- I chose the 60 Amp Boondocker as a replacement. This change requires rewiring the DC Fuse Panel, AC Circuit Breakers and the converter itself. I'm so glad I didn't cut unto the side of the bed to install the PD-4045!

I've attached a pic of the finished wiring and a diagram, in case a future restorer would find them helpful.

[65CV]

Originally Posted by albert

I would love to get a 5 minute tutorial from you on this diagram you attached. I dont know what the "sub panel", and a few other questions about your layout... if you have the time to explain.

Thanks!

Hopefully, I've answered your questions here.

[65CV]

Now that we're settled into the new-to-us house, it was time to finish off a few key items.

This photo shows some of the details. Since our last update, we've rescreened all the windows, cleaned and hillbilly chromed all the operators, installed overhead locker sliders and installed a 1/2" mini-blind in the bath. Not sure if we'll do any others, but the bath needs the ability to quickly go to privacy mode.

Best of all, there's SuperBed!

[65CV]

Superbed installation was pretty easy. First, I measured the distance between the beds at several points and cut the plywood for the base. It was very different from top to bottom -- definitely a trapezoid, not a rectangle.

Making a drill jig was very worthwhile to drill the hole through the old frame member and into the correct location of the rail. Rails are 1" x 3/4" mahogany, bluenosed. Screws were 1 5/8" galvanized, installed about every 4". After installation, it held me without creaking or failing -- I'm about 180 lbs.

First pic is the clamps holding the rails before drilling. Second is the rail next to a slightly delaminating old plywood face and a new birch plywood bed base. Note that the latter pic should be rotated to the right 90 degrees.

[65CV]

To be honest, I haven't kept up with the polishing or waxing on Sputnik. Given the fact that it's been towed to Arizona and back in the winter for the last 3 years, it's not too bad. That said, I hate polishing!

I was hoping that the Dewalt polisher was retired, but it's taking another round of F-7 to get it in shape. I'm doing C with the Cyclo for all the eye level stuff.

We're finding that it is not good to drag Sputnik across the country every winter. The miles are taking a toll and the stress on the driver is not worth the few camping trips we do back East during summer. We're willing to suffer with B&B's if we have to ;-). I'm assuming that we can find appropriate covered storage out west.

I'm pushing hard to get her ready for a long term visit to Arizona, leaving in late October. I'll fly back in early November and we'll both fly out for the winter in early January. Sputnik will stay in the Arizona area for an unknown number of years while we return at times with the Tundra or use a local rental. We just love camping out west and want to enjoy more seasons.

I'll try to post some final, finished (if there is such a thing) pictures. Yes, this is my final restoration thread -- I'm not rebuilding another trailer.

[Mr. S]

I read this whole thread. Quite the adventure! I know you started out not intending to rebuild this beauty, but you did a wonderful job! I hope mine will turn out just a nice.