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NOLA Geoff · 10-21-2011, 08:32 PM

Thanks for the quick reply. In all my airstream dreams, i never considered a forward bath. What a concept.

Chlyman · 10-22-2011, 01:06 AM

Here are the factory specs for the Bubble. My trailer is 2 feet longer, so I have a little be of flexibility if I go this route. Ugh! Wish I was decisive!

FC7039 · 10-24-2011, 12:32 PM

More on the brakes. I talked to Hadco. This is what they say will work.
The brakes are called Warner Electric and parts are no longer available.
My Brakes drums are 12 inch so this all applies to 12" drums.
My hubs are 5 lug on 5 1/2 pattern. Again, this applies to what I have.

New brakes assembly, parts 518162 (right) 518163 (left) - $62 each
New brake armature, to replace the three piece plate inside the drum (left in your picture). My drum is stamped 412. Part 520067 - $45 each

If you want new drums, they are $100 each. Not sure what the part number is as I was told my drum is compatable.

I can get a whole new axle/brakes/10" drums, rated 3500 pounds, from Southwest Tire for about $350 when all said and done.

New axle, but smaller brakes (local no delivery) $350
Replacement parts+shipping $250

If you call Hadco, ask for Adele. She was very knowledgable.

Chlyman · 10-24-2011, 05:17 PM

Thank you for this information! I also have 12" drums, but I have 6 lug on 5 1/2 pattern. But I am happy to see that I can get new brakes for this backing plate and hub.
I will give Adele a call, I think she helped me before with a different trailer axle.
Thanks!

Chlyman · 10-26-2011, 11:36 PM

The day before yesterday I cut out and painted my plywood floor. I used the Zinsser oil based primer. I had two recommendations for that surprisingly enough. I am going to coat the edges with the Tempro as well.
Yesterday I did a dry fit of the floor. It seems it may be about a 1/4" longer, but I am hoping I can cram the sheets closer together. Today I put a second coat of paint on half of my frame, and am waiting for the rest of my POR15 to show up in the mail! I also sanded the bottom of my C-Channels for the ends. They were very corroded so I primed them with Aluminum Primer to give it a longer life. I picked up new C-Channel for the rest of the floor from the fabricator yesterday. I think the C-Channel looks like the pieced that are used between the ribs as well.
I will post pictures tomorrow. I couldn't find my camera tonight!

ventport · 10-27-2011, 05:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chlyman

Here are the factory specs for the Bubble. My trailer is 2 feet longer, so I have a little be of flexibility if I go this route. Ugh! Wish I was decisive!

How do you get into the road side front corner of the dinette, crawl under the table?

Chlyman · 10-27-2011, 01:02 PM

LOL! There is more room in reality than it looks like in the photo. Here is a friends Bubble that shows that spot.

Chlyman · 10-27-2011, 05:05 PM

Here are the updated photos for what I have been doing this week. Cutting out and painting the underside of the floor. Painting the underside of the end C-Channels. Dry fitting the floor and arrival of my two grey water tanks! I can't decide if I should make banana wrap for my belly pan. The old pan was wrapped over the C-Channel, so that would need to go in before putting the shell back on, but I have lots of work to do under the floor first. I am also trying to decide what to do with the wheel tubs. Mine was a dual tub with a layer of fiberglass insulation in between. The outer layer is in bad shape. Not sure what I am going to do yet.

Chlyman · 11-01-2011, 01:08 PM

I just found out from Hadco, that they I am out of luck with my current axle set up. They no longer make hubs for my spindles, so I will have to use what I have and hope I never have a problem on the road, or get new axle which I got a quote for at $518.
This is turning into the money pit!

nick6930 · 11-01-2011, 02:30 PM

Welcome to the Money Pit Club. I must say you are making great time on the project. It has taken me a year and I at the same stage as you. Keep us updated on your progress.

65CV · 11-01-2011, 04:10 PM

Carolyn,

I found that the bellypan corners were some of the most frustrating parts of the rebuild. You are lucky that you have the old parts for patterns.

I would recommend doing the corners of the bellypan before dropping the shell back on. Secure them with Clecos to the frames so that you can get underneath to run insulation, etc. later. Secure the shell at the corners, front and back. You'll be able to run the bellypan under the sides and will still have a loose side panel to complete the wheel wells.

I would definitely recommend taking your time and sweating the details on layout. One thing that many forget is the view out the window. Our Caravel is about your size and we copied the idea of a dinette by the window. It's great when we can line the trailer up with the view.

You're making great progress!

John

Chlyman · 11-01-2011, 04:13 PM

Thanks Nick! I am lucky the weather here allows me to work on it several hours a day, if I can find the time/1

Here are some photos of the new C-Channel. I used hex bolts and locking washers with a dab of the Tempro 635 in the holes. I am not sure why some of the bolts were facing down and some facing up, but I copied how it was done before. I painted my wheel tubs with aluminum primer and some spare stray paint, but I am not adding back the second tub and the fiberglass insulation that was squished in between. I am going to cover it in the prodex and leave it at that.
I hope to finish the elevator bolts tomorrow. I am off to Lowes to see what type of rigid board insulation they carry. I plan to use the the same method I have seen on many treads with the Prodex suspended between rigid foam strips.
That's all for now.

Chlyman · 11-02-2011, 06:34 PM

I lowered the shell back onto the floor today to test the fit. It probably would have been easier to have someone help me, but I am impatient and don't like to wait around for help. It fits fine, but is not settled all the way down in the middle of the trailer. I am wondering if it has to do with the frame being on jacks in the front and back. Could the frame bow? I am going to get a new axle on Friday, so I hope to find out soon.

65CV · 11-02-2011, 06:54 PM

The frame definitely can bow. If it is unsupported in the middle, there very well may be a sag. Think of it like an airplane wing.

If I recall correctly, someone ended up with a wrinkle in their outer shell because they riveted the shell on a frame that wasn't level and square.

John

Chlyman · 11-02-2011, 07:41 PM

Thanks John, that is good to know. I will wait to get my axle,rims & tires back on and be sure to level it then before I think of doing any riveting! I would hate to get a wrinkle!

Carolyn

Chlyman · 11-08-2011, 04:45 PM

Yesterday I took apart my leaf springs put on the POR-15 to give them more life! Then today I went a picked up my new axle, it is huge and new tires! I did not need to get one that was rated for 5000lbs, but I wanted to stay with what was on there originally. Seems like overkill big time. However, they only had three u-bolts, so I will need to go and pick that up tomorrow.
I did manage to place the axle in the right place by sliding it on old sheet metal! Then I repainted the rubberized undercoating on the inside of the wheel tubs. Tomorrow I should be ready to put it all back together!

Chlyman · 11-10-2011, 10:27 AM

I just can't catch a break!!! This new axle is too fat! I have it hanging on the leaf springs now and with I only have 2 1/2" clearance between the axle and the frame! That will be zero when I actually put the weight of the trailer on the springs. I am sick! I have a very tight budget, and this is going to put a crimp in it for sure. Now I have to figure out what to do next. Can I get new spindles welded on the old axle I wonder? I have been searching for a square axle with my dimensions and no luck. The spring perches add almost a 1/2 inches, plus it is a 3" axle, and I was expecting a 2 3/8"! UUUUUGGGGGHHHHH!

worldinchaos · 11-10-2011, 01:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chlyman

I just can't catch a break!!! This new axle is too fat! I have it hanging on the leaf springs now and with I only have 2 1/2" clearance between the axle and the frame! That will be zero when I actually put the weight of the trailer on the springs. I am sick! I have a very tight budget, and this is going to put a crimp in it for sure. Now I have to figure out what to do next. Can I get new spindles welded on the old axle I wonder? I have been searching for a square axle with my dimensions and no luck. The spring perches add almost a 1/2 inches, plus it is a 3" axle, and I was expecting a 2 3/8"! UUUUUGGGGGHHHHH!

Hey setbacks are frustrating but we'll be here with u!

Depending on the type of leaf springs, what if you either added a new leaf to reduce the flex under load condition, or what if you weld a spacer to the frame above the spring mounts? Those seem like relatively cheaper options.

If you were expecting a 2.375" axle can you discuss with the manufacturer/distributor why it is 3"?

3Ms75Argosy · 11-11-2011, 02:31 PM

I'm pretty sure you can't put new spindles on the old axle. Looks like your springs may be a bit worn or de-arched. You can take them to a spring shop and have them re-arched for you, giving you some height. Can you post pics of the set up? I'm thinking your axle is mounted above the springs? I'm not sure why the mounting surface is 1/2" think... that seems a bit much?

On edit, I looked back at your pics... that spring pack is HUGE! I'm not sure that it was originally that way.... it looks WAY overkill for the size trailer you have... which would make the axle raise way over the springs, lowering your trailer height. I'd take the springs to a spring shop and ask them if you need all those springs for the weight of your trailer... my guess is not. You should be around 3500 pounds, and I don't think you need 8 leaves per side! That thing looks rated for 5K plus trailer! My guess is about 3-4 leaves is all you need... giving you about an inch in height and a softer ride.
Marc

Chlyman · 11-19-2011, 07:27 PM

I was so disgusted with the axle issue that I took a few days off. I decided to just attach the new axle and see how much clearance I have when all is said and done. Then I will be able to decide what will work. I probably should have waited until I was done in the first place to get an axle. Oh well! Today I began insulating under the trailer. I will post photo's tomorrow. I am using the form board from HD called Polyiso. It is pretty easy to work with. I also picked up some 5052 .025 aluminum for the belly pan. I am going to cut the back section tomorrow (I hope), then work on getting a bracket made for the grey tanks.