I have (again) started the restoration on the '58 California Built 18 Footer or Traveler.
The Traveler is very much original so I am going to strive to keep it that way. During the restoration of this '58 Traveler I will attempt to keep as much of the original trailer as possible. The floor had some problems but I was able to make the repairs with the sell on! I removed the original Linoleum and found a bad spot near the rear access door (typical location that is under the bed).
I was able to carve out the soft wood then I treated the area with thinned out Epoxy Resin (West Systems Epoxy that was thinned with denatured alcohol) to ensue that all of the soft wood was treated. I was then able to re-laminate the plywood floor using the Douglas Fir plywood with same thicknesses. I then treated the entire floor with thinned out epoxy resin.
Here are a couple of pictures showing those results.
LG, no where is there a model on the trailer. From what I have been able to read about these they were the California built 18' Model although the Ohio version was a Pacer. Since they were an "entry level" they did not get a badge, not sure why Ohio versions got badges yet the California versions did not.
Cliff, here a couple of pics of the outside and one of the Galley Cabinet after the repair. There were numerous leaks that resulted in the bottom of the furniture rotting. Mine had Oak Ply skin over the Douglas Fir framing. I removed the skin, repaired the framing and then re-skinned the furniture. I am getting closer to being finished with that phase but still not completed.
It would be allot easier to just replace it all but then it wouldn't be what I am looking for at the end of the project.
I just started again but yes on the Polishing. I did buy some Nuvite and started that under the areas for the Lights. I will post some information on those a little later but I am restoring them as well (crazy?)
The furnishings aren't completed yet but getting close. As you know, it takes more time to restore than to replace.
I tried to save a little time by leaving the inside of the cabinet doors. I used my heat gun but with the glue being so dry the plywood skin came loose so I removed the inside skin on the three doors and will be laminating new skins as soon as I figure out jigs. Here is one of them ready for repair.
I also rewired the tail lights and made other repairs on them. They should be ready for installation as soon as I polish the area behind them.
Progress is continuing on the Interior. I have 5 Drawer Fronts and 1 Cabinet Door finished. Pictures to come after I get them mounted.
I found this Brochure and wanted to post it here for others looking and myself, here is the link to all of them; Document Archive - Airstream
Thanks! thought of that later and painted them Silver after they and the Original Side Lights were finished with the repairs. I welded Coupling Nuts to repair the Side Lights and then used new pieces for the Bulbs. I will be installing those as soon as I get the Compounding Pads from Amazon and can get those areas polished.
I thought that I should post some progress. Here are some pics that I took while replacing the skin on the Cabinet Doors. This shows the door before, after stripping the skin, during the laminating and after installed.
This is the Galley Cabinet and is now ready for the final stain and finishing. I am thinking that I will be finishing the cabinets with Watco Danish Oil.
Good work Piratesteve. I to am restoring a Traveler. I remember your posts from when I started mine years ago. Mine sat for a long time while "life" went on. I'm also back at it. I installed the Marmolium today. I'll post about the experience in the flooring section. I replaced 75% of the perimeter floor, installed subfloor now Marmolium. Next up cabinets. Trying to keep it as original looking as I can. What are you doing for heat, and holding tanks? Looking forward to watching your progress.
It is surprising how "life goes on" and that is why mine sat too. I considered using Marmoleum as well but I was out voted (happy wife...happy wife). I just looked at your posts and your flooring does look good.
The Cabinets consume allot of time with all of the details and trying to stay as original as possible and reusing the original framework where I can. Re-skinning the Cabinet Doors took a day for each side clamped in place to ensure that the Glue had time to cure before I took it off of the Table (I am using a solid core door for my work table). One of them needed some framework repairs but now that is behind me.
We have an LPG Heater near the door, it has been stored but will be installed later since it will be in the way for now.
There is a Fiberglass Holding Tank under the Toilet. Since I am going to be using the original 12.5 Gallon Freshwater Tank I am going to stay with that. I will be starting the Plumbing soon so the rest of the decisions will be made then but I want to stay close to original but with usability in mind.
Sure, I will get a few pics of what I have and post them tomorrow. Damn now I need to clean that too!
I didn't like the color of the stains that Minwax offers so I mixed up my own batch today, amazing how much time so simple can take! Anyway the inside of the cabinet doors are done and drying for the first coat of oil. I started to move the Galley Cabinet but found that some of the nails were loose...not sure why I didn't notice this earlier. I replaced the loose nails with screws and glue and then made new plywood gussets for the back side to strengthen the assembly. I need to dry fit it tomorrow and check the city water plumbing before continuing.
Sorry I got busy but here you are. Saniware Toilet that evidently parts are not available for anymore. The Rubber Seal for the Flapper shows weather checking so I will need to either find one or make one.
I have completed the Vanity except for some trim pieces that will go on during the final install.
This was hiding under the Linoleum, somebody couldn't make up their mind!
1st cut the plugs, 2nd shape to fit with slight a taper to keep them from falling through, 3rd coat the hole and plug with the epoxy (before adding filler), 4th add the filler to both pieces and tap into the hole (or holes!). Tomorrow I will finish these patches.
Removed the 12 1/2 gallon steel freshwater tank. I started cleaning it by rinsing it and shaking out the loose scale and rust. After that I put 3 gallons of vinegar into the tank and began turning the tank. I figure about 8 hours per side should do it and then I will rinse out the vinegar and get a good look inside.
Progress is slow but consistent. Polishing around the exterior fittings such as lights, vents and windows but ran out of F9 today.
The new Vanity is in, Plumbing almost completed, Wiring to the Water Pump and rear Lighting almost in and the Bed is in!
I made some of posts of my progress as well. Finally spent the first night in her after owning her for 7 years! I made my bed platform wider to take up the space between it and the vanity. Any tips on the type of water pump to use? How about some pictures of the outside? I haven't figured out how to get more than one picture per post. Keep up the good work!
I just looked at your posts and your progress and it your progress looks good.
I chose a SHURFLO water pump I'll have to get the model number but I bought it a few years back so it may have been discontinued but I chose one that had less water flow. Here is a link to one that looks very similar; Classic Series Water Pump - SHURflo
I decided to go somewhat "old school" with my freshwater system and plumbing. I used white vinegar to clean the inside of the original 12 1/2 gallon steel water tank. I chose to stay with the original tank for a few reasons: 1st it will make the installation easier including using the original the fill pipe. 2nd only 12 1/2 gallons or about 104 Lbs. plus the weight of the tank and using the original 10 gallon black water tank. Lastly if I ever decide to go back original with compressed air I will already have the right tank.
I did allot of research on PEX and continued to come with leak issues from other posts. I decided to use a combination of rigid and soft copper. The lines are built in sections outside and then installed using flared fittings to connect them together except at the pump, at the pump there will be short sections of hose to help keep it quiet. The system got more complex that the original system with bypass and drain lines because the original system was with compressed air (it does freeze up here!).
I'll have to post some pictures of the exterior as soon as I find my camera! I borrowed Patti's yesterday but need to get serious about finding mine in the shop or the AS.
PS when you go to manage attachments, then Browse from computer, there should be about 4 of them to choose about 4 pics, then upload after choosing the 4 pics. What is your serial number?
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