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prairieschooner · 10-05-2017, 03:50 PM

more polishing & a few days off.

RankAm · 10-06-2017, 08:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RankAm

I really like your tire/wheel rack mounted on the A frame, and I plan to do something similar.

Would you please post another photo or two of the rack and how it attaches to both the tire and the frame?

Thank you.

Hank

Steve, if you have the time, I still would like to see some photos of your spare tire mount.

Hank

prairieschooner · 10-07-2017, 01:12 PM

Check Post #102 it shows the mount clearly & a definition of what I used to build it.

RankAm · 10-08-2017, 08:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by prairieschooner

Check Post #102 it shows the mount clearly & a definition of what I used to build it.

Thanks, Steve, that helps.

I still am trying to understand the mechanics of your wheel mount. Am I correct that, to remove the wheel, you unbolt and remove the piece that comes through the center of the wheel and is bolted to the A frame?

If you have another photo of the mount without the wheel, that may answer my question.

Many thanks for your help.

Hank

prairieschooner · 10-08-2017, 06:20 PM

yes to remove the spare I take that piece of 1" wide X 1/4" thick flat stock off. The Propane Tanks had to be moved forward to make room & the 1" square tubing is spaced to allow the tire to wedge into them. Thinking a welder would have no problem duplicating if you took the pics to him.
Sorry don't have a pic with the tire off & we are getting ready to go camping again so cannot take it off now.
Hey if you wind up near Idyllwild please come by and take a better look

RankAm · 10-09-2017, 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by prairieschooner

yes to remove the spare I take that piece of 1" wide X 1/4" thick flat stock off. The Propane Tanks had to be moved forward to make room & the 1" square tubing is spaced to allow the tire to wedge into them. Thinking a welder would have no problem duplicating if you took the pics to him.
Sorry don't have a pic with the tire off & we are getting ready to go camping again so cannot take it off now.
Hey if you wind up near Idyllwild please come by and take a better look

Thanks, Steve.

My final question (I hope!), relates to what is at the rear of the spare wheel. Is the bolt (that passes through the lug hole on the wheel) welded to (or pass through) the piece of flat stock (so that, to remove the spare wheel, you first would remove the two nuts and then remove the piece of flat stock)?

Many thanks for your help.

Have fun camping.

Hank

prairieschooner · 10-10-2017, 08:27 AM

I drilled the holes before I bent the flat stock. The bolt for the top or the one that passes through the wheel is welded to the flat stock. The bolt at the bottom or the one that passes through a bracket welded to the front piece of 1" square tubing is not welded. That allows me to remove the bracket prior to removing the spare tire/wheel.
I do like the use of lug nuts instead of hex nuts to hold the spare tire in place. If I need to change a tire I will have a couple spare lug nuts just in case.
hope this helps

RankAm · 10-11-2017, 07:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by prairieschooner

I drilled the holes before I bent the flat stock. The bolt for the top or the one that passes through the wheel is welded to the flat stock. The bolt at the bottom or the one that passes through a bracket welded to the front piece of 1" square tubing is not welded. That allows me to remove the bracket prior to removing the spare tire/wheel.
I do like the use of lug nuts instead of hex nuts to hold the spare tire in place. If I need to change a tire I will have a couple spare lug nuts just in case.
hope this helps

Thanks, Steve. I think I understand it now. Yours is a slick and simple way of holding the tire in place.

I take it that you use only the bent piece of flat stock and that there is no other support at the back of the tire (towards the rear of the of the trailer) to keep the tire from rubbing the skin of the trailer.

Thanks for your help on this.

Hank

prairieschooner · 10-11-2017, 08:26 AM

You got it, if you look at the pics you'll see the flat stock goes behind the wheel. It still can "flex" a little but since I wasn't trying to make it rigid it shouldn't create any issues. The square stock does most of the work since the tire wedges itself in place and the flat stock just keeps the tire from going backwards.
You will want to use an acorn nut on the threaded rod that holds the LPG tanks in place so you don't run into it when using the jack.

Hope this helps

prairieschooner · 04-28-2018, 08:33 PM

Quick update...all has been well & we have been traveling around locally doing vintage trailer rallys.
Now the wifey found out about the VAC starting in Baker City & going to Bend & then Salem. Now getting ready for that so need to finish the polishing. Need a 12 Volt Charging Station.
I picked up a Yeti 35 Qt Cooler to keep the food good while traveling & some Yeti Blue Ice to hopefully help the Krefft stay cold while moving without LPG or electric.
Also converted the Heater to have a Thermostat thanks to 50s Aluminum;
50s Aluminum
He sent me a burner with the Valve, all it needed a new Pilot Generator but now all is well after a quick visit to Zoro

prairieschooner · 05-25-2018, 08:14 AM

I ran into a problem when attempting to install the Window Gaskets on the front & rear windows. I got the stuff from Vintage Trailer Supply but having troubles. After removing the old gaskets or seals I cut to size & installed only the bottom Gasket and now the window will not close. The new gasket is too thick.
I'm in contact with Vintage Trailer Gaskets and hopefully he can help, we leave in a couple of weeks for Oregon VAC.

Anyone have any other ideas? This pic is of the stuff that doesn't work well;

RankAm · 05-26-2018, 07:40 AM

If your windows are similar to the windows in my 1956 Flying Cloud, you might be able to use the VTS D gaskets (which come in 3 sizes) on the swinging portion of the windows.

Hank

prairieschooner · 09-14-2018, 07:59 AM

I found the right place! Vintage Trailer Gaskets had the correct seals for my windows! Their stuff worked as i should & they were very knowledgeable and helpful when I discussed this with them. Here is a link;
http://www.vintagetrailergaskets.com/

prairieschooner · 09-14-2018, 08:15 AM

During our trip to Oregon a leak appeared and of course it was right over my bunk (at my feet). Luckily we headed to the coast & down the Cali coast shortly after so a little tape helped 'til we got home.

When we got back home, I took a syringe and pumped water in the seams to find the location of the leak. It was at or near the rear window. Next was to remove the window frame at the inside so that I could isolate the area. This made it much easier to identify the leak.
After finding the leak it was evident that I should remove the eyebrow so that the repair is completed with no future issues. After I removed the eyebrow I found the caulking under the eyebrow was dried out & not working anymore. This made me remove the eyebrow for the trunk as well.

prairieschooner · 09-14-2018, 08:20 AM

Before caulking I polished those areas and then used Parbond to caulk the rear window and questionable seams.
I also polished that area around the trunk and should be able to caulk it when I re-install the eyebrows

prairieschooner · 09-22-2018, 08:24 AM

I tapped of the rear window first and caulked it, then I was able to tape & caulk the seams in that area as well. I started by dry fitting the eyebrows using the Olympic Rivets to hold the eyebrows temporarily in place.
I then caulked the eyebrows with grey Sikaflex 221 prior to riveting them in place. Then triming the rivets with some side cutter.

prairieschooner · 09-22-2018, 08:36 AM

After walking away for a few days to allow the Sikaflex to cure I used the Olympic Rivet Shaving Tool to shave the rivets. They were still somewhat rough so I polished them with Nuvite F9 and all looks great now. Hopefully next time we find rain my feet will remain dry.

prairieschooner · 09-09-2020, 09:41 AM

So now an update on my Krefft refrigerator. For some reason it is having issues getting cold. Bummer is that I did such a great job on the installation it isn't easy to remove it and all of the wiring, fans, etc.
Then I called Cool Fun.. the guys who did the initial work on it well over a decade ago & was informed that Joe had passed. Hoping that his son can help get it going again or that it can be retrofitted.

prairieschooner · 12-06-2023, 01:18 PM

The '58 Traveler has been a joy to date. All systems have worked extremely well except the Krefft refrigerator when on propane.
The guys at Cool Fun in Riverside were able to get it working again but on shore power much better than on propane. They were able to update the shore power with a clamp on heater element at 225 watts instead of the 180 watt original element in a tube form. This is much better because I don't have to remove/replace the heater element and baffle anymore when changing from propane to shore power.

I have found an issue with the propane system now. The regulator is not delivering the 11 inches of water column that it should. I bought a gauge off of ebay to test the system and this is how I found the problem. It is a BTU problem and the lower pressure is an issue.

Now I found a knowledgeable person with great experience with these older absorption refrigerators. It is Maine Gas Refrigerator and here is the link;
https://www.mainegasrefrigerator.com. He specializes on Servel units but has been very helpful. We have discussed changing my Krefft burner over to a modern style burner with a safety valve and thermocouple.

I'll post an update after I receive the new parts and get them installed but I am encouraged and very optimistic. I will have some Krefft parts to sell afterwards including the Teddington Type TZ Burner.