Rear HDMI, Rear Plug to Inverter, Microwave support
Ok I’m going to tackle a BIG one here.
Running a dedicated HDMI cable to the Rear 22” TV, Running a new power wire to the Rear TV plug that will allow it to run off the inverter, Cutting in a New plug in the street side closet to power an HDMI Splitter, replacing the cheap RV style plugs with new plugs and boxes (TV front, TV rear, New Closet plug, and Microwave). Also while at it I added front support blocks for the Microwave and added T-nuts to hold it all in place.
Previously we had used a wireless HDMI transmitter for our Rear TV, but if you were running both the Front and Rear TVs at the same time there was an audio delay of about a millisecond which was quite annoying.
Hardwiring a HDMI cable removed the delay.
In our 2014 23D the items needed to get an HDMI cable from the front TV to the Rear was as follows...
50’ High Quality HDMI cable (I used AudioQuest Pearl)
9’ High Quality HDMI cable (Again I used Audio Quest Pearl)
Powered HDMI splitter. (Techole 1x2 4K Splitter)
Running a New inverter powered wire to the rear TV also required a piece of 12-2 Romex approx 50’ long.
These instruction are for a 2014 23D, and are NOT a How Too, but a How “I” did this MOD. Make sure before you mess with any wiring that you disconnect the power from you unit!
Now let’s get started!
First, out with the Microwave, Mattress and Bed Deck. Removing Closet doors, Bath vanity doors and toe kick also will make things easier to access.
Once all that “stuff” is out of the way the “FUN” begins.
Gaining access for the HDMI cable to the Streetside Closest from the Microwave enclosure requires drilling a 3/4” hole in the closest wall. Drill this hole so that it is in the most inconspicuous place. I drilled mine so that if fell behind the void in the closet front. Also using plastic trim inserts in the holes drill makes things look really nice.
You will also need to drill a hole in the rear back corner of the Curb Side closest and through the Curb Side closest rear wall behind the Rear TV.
Route the 50’ HDMI Cable from the the Street Side closest down into the water pump area. Then rearward under the bath vanity, in front of the black tank, and under the shower floor. From there you can access the wire from the Rear storage area. Use a fish tape or wire hook to catch the HDMI cable and pull it into the rear storage area. From there you simple route the HDMI cable through the mechanical area under the bed, up into the Curb Side closest, and to the Rear TV. Whew.....
The power cable is routed the same way but once it’s in the mechanical area under the bed it is then fished into the wall and out the existing plug hole in the aluminum skin.
Once both those wires are ran then you can cut the square hole for the plug box in the Street Side closest and enlarge the holes in the aluminum skin and in the wall behind the Front TV to accept the new plug box. A shallow box is required for the rear plug in the Aluminum skin and a deep pop in box for the Street Side closest plug and front TV plug.
A power wire is ran from the Front TV Plug to the Street Side closest Plug and then the wire you ran to the Rear TV Plug is connected into the series.
I hope that make sense. Basically the power wire for the Rear TV catches power from the Front TV Plug which is also powered be the Inverter, and the plug in the Street Side Closet is in line with this run.
The original HDMI from the Front TV is re routed to the Street Side Closet where the HDMI Splitter will be tucked away. Then the new short HDMI Cable will be routed to the Front TV from the HDMI splitter in the Street Side Closet, and the long HDMI cable that runs to the rear TV is connected to the HDMI splitter.
Now all that is left is making final wire connection and neatening everything up.
Before reinstating the Microwave I also replaced the cheap RV style Microwave plug with a Handicap Box and new commercial 20 amp plug, and installed some plywood support blocks to allow the Microwave to rest on instead of being supported by the face plate mounting screws.
The Microwave trim plate was attached with short #8 screws which are prone to striping out under the stress of travel. I replaced these screws with T-nuts which allow for 10-24 machine screws to be used in a through bolt type manner that is much stronger and secure.
I hope the photos of all this work will help explain and add clarity to these upgrades.
Thanks
Ronnie
Running a dedicated HDMI cable to the Rear 22” TV, Running a new power wire to the Rear TV plug that will allow it to run off the inverter, Cutting in a New plug in the street side closet to power an HDMI Splitter, replacing the cheap RV style plugs with new plugs and boxes (TV front, TV rear, New Closet plug, and Microwave). Also while at it I added front support blocks for the Microwave and added T-nuts to hold it all in place.
Previously we had used a wireless HDMI transmitter for our Rear TV, but if you were running both the Front and Rear TVs at the same time there was an audio delay of about a millisecond which was quite annoying.
Hardwiring a HDMI cable removed the delay.
In our 2014 23D the items needed to get an HDMI cable from the front TV to the Rear was as follows...
50’ High Quality HDMI cable (I used AudioQuest Pearl)
9’ High Quality HDMI cable (Again I used Audio Quest Pearl)
Powered HDMI splitter. (Techole 1x2 4K Splitter)
Running a New inverter powered wire to the rear TV also required a piece of 12-2 Romex approx 50’ long.
These instruction are for a 2014 23D, and are NOT a How Too, but a How “I” did this MOD. Make sure before you mess with any wiring that you disconnect the power from you unit!
Now let’s get started!
First, out with the Microwave, Mattress and Bed Deck. Removing Closet doors, Bath vanity doors and toe kick also will make things easier to access.
Once all that “stuff” is out of the way the “FUN” begins.
Gaining access for the HDMI cable to the Streetside Closest from the Microwave enclosure requires drilling a 3/4” hole in the closest wall. Drill this hole so that it is in the most inconspicuous place. I drilled mine so that if fell behind the void in the closet front. Also using plastic trim inserts in the holes drill makes things look really nice.
You will also need to drill a hole in the rear back corner of the Curb Side closest and through the Curb Side closest rear wall behind the Rear TV.
Route the 50’ HDMI Cable from the the Street Side closest down into the water pump area. Then rearward under the bath vanity, in front of the black tank, and under the shower floor. From there you can access the wire from the Rear storage area. Use a fish tape or wire hook to catch the HDMI cable and pull it into the rear storage area. From there you simple route the HDMI cable through the mechanical area under the bed, up into the Curb Side closest, and to the Rear TV. Whew.....
The power cable is routed the same way but once it’s in the mechanical area under the bed it is then fished into the wall and out the existing plug hole in the aluminum skin.
Once both those wires are ran then you can cut the square hole for the plug box in the Street Side closest and enlarge the holes in the aluminum skin and in the wall behind the Front TV to accept the new plug box. A shallow box is required for the rear plug in the Aluminum skin and a deep pop in box for the Street Side closest plug and front TV plug.
A power wire is ran from the Front TV Plug to the Street Side closest Plug and then the wire you ran to the Rear TV Plug is connected into the series.
I hope that make sense. Basically the power wire for the Rear TV catches power from the Front TV Plug which is also powered be the Inverter, and the plug in the Street Side Closet is in line with this run.
The original HDMI from the Front TV is re routed to the Street Side Closet where the HDMI Splitter will be tucked away. Then the new short HDMI Cable will be routed to the Front TV from the HDMI splitter in the Street Side Closet, and the long HDMI cable that runs to the rear TV is connected to the HDMI splitter.
Now all that is left is making final wire connection and neatening everything up.
Before reinstating the Microwave I also replaced the cheap RV style Microwave plug with a Handicap Box and new commercial 20 amp plug, and installed some plywood support blocks to allow the Microwave to rest on instead of being supported by the face plate mounting screws.
The Microwave trim plate was attached with short #8 screws which are prone to striping out under the stress of travel. I replaced these screws with T-nuts which allow for 10-24 machine screws to be used in a through bolt type manner that is much stronger and secure.
I hope the photos of all this work will help explain and add clarity to these upgrades.
Thanks
Ronnie
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