Interior painted, now on to the woodworking
Posted 10-25-2009 at 06:02 PM by Bowmans
We finished the painting sometime last week and put all of the ceiling lights, outlet covers, AC cover, wing window trim, end cap tambours, etc. back on. Below is some picts of the paint inside:
The front end:
The rear (bath plastics are in the way but...):
I need to take a daytime picture of the front end. I am pleased with how the primer/paint stuck to plastic and vinyl and the color looks great against the pine wood and blue materials that will eventually be inside.
This week we worked on re-making the bathroom. I started with the wall between the shower and kitchen since one side is hidden with shower board and the other will have another wall in front of it covering vent PVC pipes. I wasn't worried about grain direction or the handling of the round corner for this wall since it wouldn't be seen but did want to practice making good, solid tongue and groove framing with floating panels of pine paneling and make a sturdy mounting area around the curved wall for the shower board. The paneled walls are a little lighter in weight than the thicker, honeycomb walls AS used inside our camper, but a little heavier than the straight panelling walls. Here is a picture of the first wall just sitting in position before sanding and polyurethane:
Next was the wall on the other side of the shower where the opening into the shower is. Here is a picture of it clamped up for drying (and my messy shop):
You can't see the right half of the shop. It is chock full of the old interior as well as some of our yard out in front of the shop.
Here is that wall just sitting in place after getting the curve to fit:
The hole at the bottom is for the heater vent. We are reusing the brown one that was in there but mounting is on the back of the board for a recessed vent.
That is all of the pictures we have so far but we did finish making the wall between the bath and bedroom as well as both hall walls that go in front of the shower and toilet and make the opening into the bathroom. They have been finish sanded and the shower board cut for both side walls. I will say, the square walls went together fast. The rounded walls went back and forth to the shop 4-5 times to get the curve shape just right. That is even after using the walls that came out as templates and making sure they fit back in before hand.
I kept debating on whether to polyurethane the walls before putting them in for the shower area since I knew I would beat them around getting them in and the shower board installed so decided to mount the 2 side walls on the tub first. Next week I will polyurethane those 2 walls in place and mount the shower board, the other 3 bathroom walls and hopefully make the cabinet for under the sink and get the bathroom finished off.
The front end:
The rear (bath plastics are in the way but...):
I need to take a daytime picture of the front end. I am pleased with how the primer/paint stuck to plastic and vinyl and the color looks great against the pine wood and blue materials that will eventually be inside.
This week we worked on re-making the bathroom. I started with the wall between the shower and kitchen since one side is hidden with shower board and the other will have another wall in front of it covering vent PVC pipes. I wasn't worried about grain direction or the handling of the round corner for this wall since it wouldn't be seen but did want to practice making good, solid tongue and groove framing with floating panels of pine paneling and make a sturdy mounting area around the curved wall for the shower board. The paneled walls are a little lighter in weight than the thicker, honeycomb walls AS used inside our camper, but a little heavier than the straight panelling walls. Here is a picture of the first wall just sitting in position before sanding and polyurethane:
Next was the wall on the other side of the shower where the opening into the shower is. Here is a picture of it clamped up for drying (and my messy shop):
You can't see the right half of the shop. It is chock full of the old interior as well as some of our yard out in front of the shop.
Here is that wall just sitting in place after getting the curve to fit:
The hole at the bottom is for the heater vent. We are reusing the brown one that was in there but mounting is on the back of the board for a recessed vent.
That is all of the pictures we have so far but we did finish making the wall between the bath and bedroom as well as both hall walls that go in front of the shower and toilet and make the opening into the bathroom. They have been finish sanded and the shower board cut for both side walls. I will say, the square walls went together fast. The rounded walls went back and forth to the shop 4-5 times to get the curve shape just right. That is even after using the walls that came out as templates and making sure they fit back in before hand.
I kept debating on whether to polyurethane the walls before putting them in for the shower area since I knew I would beat them around getting them in and the shower board installed so decided to mount the 2 side walls on the tub first. Next week I will polyurethane those 2 walls in place and mount the shower board, the other 3 bathroom walls and hopefully make the cabinet for under the sink and get the bathroom finished off.
Total Comments 9
Comments
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Your trailer is looking good. I'm just about to start painting the inside of my '65 Overlander. Where did you get the shower pan? I'm moving the bath from the rear to the side and need that type.
Keep the pictures coming.
Ron C.Posted 10-25-2009 at 06:23 PM by Ronald D 
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Ron,
It is the original center bath plastics that were in it. We painted them using TileDoc (XIM) epoxy is why they look white instead of yellow. Good luck with your project. Post some photos of your progress. I would love to see how you handled the moving of all the water/sewer lines and windows, etc. to go from rear to center bath. That is a major undertaking!Posted 10-25-2009 at 07:02 PM by Bowmans
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Looking GOOD!
What primer & paint did you use on the vinyl walls, endcaps, and tambour?
Thanks, MaryPosted 10-25-2009 at 10:55 PM by Maryw164
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Thanks all for the good responses.
Mary,
We used Sherman Williams paint and primers for the camper mostly. We first cleaned the walls with Marine Clean from POR15 guys, then sanded everything with 220 grit sandpaper heavily and wiped again with slight soapy water.
The endcap was primed with a product called "Adhesion Primer" in Latex (B51 W 8050). The guys at SW said anything will stick to it and so far, they were right on what I primed with it. The paint stuck well to all surfaces. I used that for the front endcap and tambours, the wing windows surrounds and the AC cover. The vinyl walls were primed with "Pro Block" oil-based paint (B79 W 8810). Both primers were white in color and were applied using brush and roller. We then painted all of it with an Alabaster color oil-based paint applied with brush and rollers. I brushed the entire front endcap due to the curve in it but the rear curve, I used a roller cut into 1/3 size and a small roller. I was very cautious with paint drips and runs with the uneven aluminum seams and kept going back every few minutes and checking the previous area, re-brushing where it ran.
It has only been painted for a week and a half now but I have ben quite abusive while I put in and removed the bath walls over and over trying to get a good fit and hit them numerous times (not intentional of course) and the paint hasn't been marred or scratched which to me is a great sign. Seems that it will be able to take some abuse well.
I will say though that having everything out first helped tremendously. I wouldn't have wanted to mask and paint around furniture. The epoxied floor was done first and is now covered in paint drips. In our case, it doesn't matter since the floor will be covered later.
Tadd & BethPosted 10-26-2009 at 11:23 AM by Bowmans
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The hard work is paying off!!!
I'm new to this whole game of renovating an AS and would welcome any pointers . I just inherited a 1973 31' Sovereign that needs work to say the least. I'm probably going to keep the floor plan the same but taking out all of the walls and cabinets and building my own(any pointers). I might try and redo the bathroom as well but I don't know where to get new plastics. Thatks ahead for any and all help.
Renoman
(Adam Powell)Posted 10-26-2009 at 08:31 PM by Renoman
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As far as pointers, this site has so much knowledge and has helped me tremendously. Anything you need to know, there are usually multiple posts in the forums where someone has done it. As far as rebuilding the inside, the main pointer I can give you is make it as light as possible and watch the weight distribution. Extra weight will put stress on the frame and walls which you don't want and the tongue should have 10%-15% more weight than the rear (check my % on the forums) so it pulls ok. Not sure on getting bath plastics, I used what was in ours already. Some people have re-made the bathroom using aluminum or stainless steel and had great results. Good luck with your project!
Posted 10-27-2009 at 12:24 AM by Bowmans
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Looking good u guys! What paint did you use? Keep up the good work!Posted 11-01-2009 at 06:38 PM by 76sovereign
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So many questions
I am so glad I found your post. My husband and I just finished gutting our 1977 Sovereign Land Yacht 31 foot. Our shower pan I don't think was ever used so our plan was to reuse it (thanks for the type of paint you used to coat it). Now all my questions for the walls. I too kept the walls to use as templates when I go to rebuild everything (I think we will pretty much use the same floor plan as before). I see you are using "paneled walls" for the shower are you going to cover those walls with something else for water protection? how will you seal the seam between the shower pan and the wall? Also how are you attaching the new wall to the interior skin? (As you know most of the walls were attached with that copper colored tin piece that got screwed into the interior skins) What will you use as a door into the bathroom? I kept the original one also as a template. How are you going to cover the toilet vent up? Box it in with light weight wood? What size bed to you put in the back? I've been told we can put 2 twins together to make a King size bed. Are you reusing the furnace that was originally there? - saw your vent opening. So sorry about all the questions but I saw your post and once we got everything out it's always the big question now how do we put it back together (but better). Thank you again. Tamie
PS I'll try and figure out how to attach photos so I can show you what ours looks like.Posted 09-25-2016 at 10:11 AM by Wilma77
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So glad I found this post!! Lots of awesome ideas. What a beautiful job you did. Inspirational!
Posted 02-06-2017 at 10:40 AM by peaseblossom
