64 GT Restoration #7
Posted 09-06-2008 at 02:00 PM by 64TrotterAtl
Well, it has certainly been a long week for me. I finally feel like I am educated on my current task of installing he black water tank, sub-floors, replacing some of the U channels, etc.
I started the week by purchasing wood and elevator bolts with fanged washers as well as self tapping screws and lock bolts. I put two coats of polyurethane on both sides of the wood. I used oil based polyurethane I had from refinishing my hardwood floors and other misc. projects.
Upon receiving the tank with 1 inch lips around the top edges, I started to ponder how I could make the tank flush with the outriggers and cross members. I decided to weld the supporting cross members lower than the outriggers making the top of the tank, flush with what will soon be the bottom of the sub-floors. Actually, I bolted one of the cross members so that if necessary, I could remove the black tank from below by loosening the bolts. I also welded angle iron to the exterior side of the main frame 1/2 inch lower than what the black tank sits. I attached angle iron across the bottom of the tank in order to support what will be the pan with the black tank inside. I need to have the pan made and will do so this coming week. POR-15 was applied to all welded areas and new metal.
I also cut the peice of aluminum to go above where the entry way step. I recieved my new wheel wells and applied POR-15 to both the inside and outside. These wheel wells are so muc better than the ones I pulled out.
My next plans are to attach the wheel wells and aluminum above the step. I will then lay the sub-floor material onto the trailer and screw it down with self-tapping metal screws in order to hold it in place. I have both the front and the back U channels and had some new U channel made at a local metal shop. My plan would be to have the shell back on sometime over the next 3 days. Now that the welding is done and the tank is here, I only need to have a pan assembled and installed from below, prooving that I will be able to remove and repair the tank if neccessary.
I started the week by purchasing wood and elevator bolts with fanged washers as well as self tapping screws and lock bolts. I put two coats of polyurethane on both sides of the wood. I used oil based polyurethane I had from refinishing my hardwood floors and other misc. projects.
Upon receiving the tank with 1 inch lips around the top edges, I started to ponder how I could make the tank flush with the outriggers and cross members. I decided to weld the supporting cross members lower than the outriggers making the top of the tank, flush with what will soon be the bottom of the sub-floors. Actually, I bolted one of the cross members so that if necessary, I could remove the black tank from below by loosening the bolts. I also welded angle iron to the exterior side of the main frame 1/2 inch lower than what the black tank sits. I attached angle iron across the bottom of the tank in order to support what will be the pan with the black tank inside. I need to have the pan made and will do so this coming week. POR-15 was applied to all welded areas and new metal.
I also cut the peice of aluminum to go above where the entry way step. I recieved my new wheel wells and applied POR-15 to both the inside and outside. These wheel wells are so muc better than the ones I pulled out.
My next plans are to attach the wheel wells and aluminum above the step. I will then lay the sub-floor material onto the trailer and screw it down with self-tapping metal screws in order to hold it in place. I have both the front and the back U channels and had some new U channel made at a local metal shop. My plan would be to have the shell back on sometime over the next 3 days. Now that the welding is done and the tank is here, I only need to have a pan assembled and installed from below, prooving that I will be able to remove and repair the tank if neccessary.
Total Comments 4
Comments
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Hi,
congratulations for what you do ... i envy you to know and to do all that work for a restauration... I know it's not easy to do something on a vintage trailer but all repairing and starting from zero is , certainly worse...
Courage !
Bruno.Posted 09-07-2008 at 03:10 AM by brunoffrance 
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Hi,
I am in the process of restoring my 1967 Land Yacht and your project looks a lot like what I have in my driveway. I am looking for a good treatment for the frame so as to get rid of the rust and seal the frame so I can spray foam the frame. I have to do a littl e welding myself and move some things around to fit what My wife has in mind for the lay out of the interior. Was the shell heavy to lift off of the frame? or did you have to use jacks? I haven't decided to do this yet but I am thinking about it. I think it would be a bad idea since I live in Iowa and winter is coming on. Have you thought of what you will insulate the frame with? I am going to use a spray foam that is made from soy bean oil. It cost about $235 for a two part system that comes fully ready to use. It covers about 250 cu. ft. I might need more for the floor area but I also intend to spray the walls after they are ready with all new electric wiring. Your project looks great hope to see more of the project and good luck.
RustyPosted 09-10-2008 at 03:33 PM by -
your progress is very impressive. I like everything I see. I do want to offer a word of caution about the self tapping screws. Do not rely on them to hold the floor down. That is what the elevator bolts are for. The screws will work them selves loose as she goes down the road and it will be a problem. Keep going, godspeed.Posted 09-11-2008 at 07:17 AM by Frank's Trailer Works
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I did not end up usin the self tapping screws, rather elevator bolts, over 60 of them in all. Thanks for the comments, AndrewPosted 09-15-2008 at 05:45 PM by 64TrotterAtl
