More tongue and groove
Posted 03-24-2010 at 09:33 PM by Bowmans
Found some time to work on the camper this week and continued where I left off when winter hit. I put all of the face framing onto the cabinets that were built last year and built the first overhead bin.
Here is a shot of gluing some of the face frames:
Here is a shot with all the face frames put in around the fridge, the pantry, hall closet and clothes hanger/TV/shelves cabinet:
And the overhead bin in the bedroom:
I hope to get some more time in this week...
Here is a shot of gluing some of the face frames:
Here is a shot with all the face frames put in around the fridge, the pantry, hall closet and clothes hanger/TV/shelves cabinet:
And the overhead bin in the bedroom:
I hope to get some more time in this week...
Total Comments 8
Comments
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Wow! A ton of cabinets! Do you have a floor plan you can post?
Thanks, BobPosted 03-24-2010 at 09:48 PM by Xbob2 
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Beautiful work! What size is your trailer?Posted 03-25-2010 at 08:05 AM by Bettye
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A Xbob2 - Wife made me add as much storage as it had before (shh, she may be listening). I have a floor plan but it's mainly in my head. I have a ton of drawings but nothing electronic really. I did a photoshop illustration to show the colors together and a rough of the layout. I'll see if I can dig that up this weekend.
A Bettye - Thanks for the compliment. It is a 1979 31' Sovereign, center bath model.Posted 03-25-2010 at 09:10 AM by Bowmans
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Looks great! I'm curious to know how you are fastening the cabinets to the wall/ceiling and floor. Do you have a detail shot of that?Posted 03-25-2010 at 11:14 PM by adwriter73
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@Adwriter - I am mounting everything to the walls and floor using 3/4" X 3/4" strips on the most unseen areas. Here is a shot of the underside of the overhead bin. The strip against the curved wall (under the shelf) is bolted to the wall using 3 butterfly bolts and 2 screws, then the shelf is screwed to it. The same type strip runs behind the front face at the top holding it to the ceiling, and another (barely seen) between the face and shelf. There are also strips on the sides screwed to the facing wood wall and to hold the endcap on. I really wanted this to stay since it could be deadly landing on someone and with movement, screws alone would loosen up which is why I went with butterfly bolts.
The same thing was done with all of the separation walls and face framing. Even the bathroom walls are the same. I did use dowels and holes in the floor in a couple of places (glued dowels into the bottom of the wall but did not glue the wall to floor). The dowels are 1.5" and go all the way through the floor and hold it in place. Then strips are added to the top to keep it in place. The fridge wall facing the living room and shower wall facing the hallway was done with the dowels. I couldn't get behind them to fasten to the floor.
Looking closely at this picture, you can see the strips to the right of the fridge vent that screw to the wooden separation wall and then into the curved wall. Some strips are longer than others but none curve so smaller ones near the top. The facing frames are done the same way on the inside (hidden). My goal is to have all screw heads hidden but there will be a few that need plugs.
Posted 03-26-2010 at 06:43 AM by Bowmans
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I'm very impressed with your work. It keeps me inspired. I am going to be doing new cabinets, walls, partitions and the like just like you. I've been concerned with the trailer flexing. Your method seems pretty secure, do you think there is room for it to shift/flex? I noticed my old cabinets were set in a track that was mounted to the wall. If I remember correctly, the cabinets set loose in this track. I thought about securing new cabinets that same way. Did you secure your bathroom walls the same way you secured your cabinets?
Posted 03-28-2010 at 11:58 AM by adwriter73
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@adwriter - I secured all the walls in the same manner. The floating panels allow a little flex in the framing for the walls but not much. Since the framing is all made using tongue and groove at 1/2" depth, there is some flexing that can happen if a joint breaks free also. Not sure how well it will work on the road but will see when we get it there.
Posted 03-28-2010 at 12:41 PM by Bowmans
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Good point with the tongue and groove method. It does seem like it would allow some flexing. And it's not like it needs a lot of flex.
Posted 04-02-2010 at 01:33 PM by adwriter73
