We camp for the reasons posted above, but also for a change of pace, new surrounding and just what's out there. I like to see how other people solve various camping challenges as will as neat improvements. Since going solar, lithium and compost, we rarely stay on campgrounds until arriving at our destination. That alone brings up all kinds of discussion on ways to do it. Probably our only regret in the 50 years of camping is not starting sooner before the kids were 5 and 8 years old. Why? Probably for the same reason a lot do not. A young family with lots of responsibilities. Up on looking back, I can see with ingenuity that did not have to be a game stopper. Oh well!
nothing like hid sight.
guskmg

Nice. Did you glue at all, or did the heat shrink hold them in position?
Also, did you remove the spade connectors and put on new ones including the LED leads in the crimp, or manage to install the wires into existing crimps?
Sorry, no matter how well you documents, there'll always be a dummy like me who still needs more detail :-)

Been studying up. I believe I am going to build my own system, using Renogy like you did. They have a nice new panel that's called a 'compact' version, $101 apiece on Amazon. Gotta love that. Question for you. The prewire I believe are just wires terminating with crimp connectors. How did you hook up your two panels to these wires? Did you accomplish the parallel connections up on the roof with branch connectors to go from four wires to 2, which you then took into the trailer at the vent and crimped to the existing crimp fittings? Or did you just make up a harness by soldering or crimping the appropriate wires together and put heat shrink on them to make waterproof and button them up? I'm thinking I'll use the Renogy MC4 fittings/branch connectors that are tight and waterproof to do mine.

I'm right at $800 for the system including pretty much everything...panels, mounts (treating myself...$44 but that gives me adjustable ones for the curved roof); controller, Blue Seas switch, DC Breaker, connectors to make wires, and a Victron 712 bluetooth monitor/shunt package. I don't think I'm missing anything? Just need to add some wire and sealant and vhb tape. $800 less than the 200w Zamp 'package' from AM Solar by the time you add the battery monitor! (Their 200w 'package' is $1395 plus the monitor= $1630! Heck I can add 200 more watts AND my 6v batteries and still be less than their 200w system. (their 400w system is $2195 plus monitor. Insane!!)

Thanks for continued advice. I'm excited to get it all slowly put together, along with the 6v batteries...and leave the generator at home most of the time!

Seems like having rivnuts on hand is a smart move with Airstreams. Gotta get me some. Read your mirror hardening post as well. With some of the boondock roads I rattle down, it's only a matter of time...

Wow. Less than half price. I need to look in to this option of ordering piecemeal and going with Renogy. I might even go right to 4 panels at that point. Awesome intel, thanks. Will check in if any questions as I begin to do this.

Getting ready to do the same thing. I was going to install a combiner box with heavier wire down through the fridge, rather than use the factory prewire, in case I expand to 400w. I like the way your set up your panels to add 2 more and be series-parallel at that point. You got me wondering though, you mentioned you set your up so you can add 200 more watts without more wire. Do you feel the factor pre-wire is adequate for 400w? It sure would be easier rather than installing a combiner and bigger wire through the trailer.


Also...AM Solar has a package with 2 Zamp panels, all the wiring (bigger wiring for expansion of system), combiner box, controller, cut off switch, fuse, negative bus, sikaflex, dicor, panel mounting feet...everything needed basically, except the Victron monitor. Cost is $1395. Wondering what you saved by using Renogy, skipping combiner box and heavier wire. I need to look into that rather than the package.

Outstanding. I am getting ready to do this along with 200w to start, or maybe just do the whole 400w, of solar, so this is great. Nice neat installation!
1. Was it very difficult to remove the dinette seat? I recall Rich saying it was a bear, but he might have been talking about the sofa were he put his batteries and stuff.
2. What was the Rivnut in the skin above the solar disconnect switch for?

Too much pressure caused our 55 gallon tank to expand. This in turn deformed the tank pan but there is no leaking. When I inspected the situation I noticed that some of the bolts were over tightened by Airstream and the threads are stripped.

So what to do? The tank sags about two to three inches when full. I made a steel bracket to help with the sag but I'm not too happy with the Airstream stripped threads, what do you think?

Did you install a remote thermostat or was it built in lower unit?

Can you share lower unit part number?

I received a quote form Airstream $2500. To do swap. The weight of unit will be hard to handle but I can’t justify spending that much for install

Airstream shop said I had to install wall thermostat that is why asked about your lower unit.
Thanks for your help and taking time to share with us.

Ron

This newbie thanks you for the details and overkill. Turns out my new 2019 FC 25RBQ has visible moisture drops in 3 clearance lights. I haven't disassembled the lights to assess the thermowelds, so not sure of the root cause of my moisture intrusion. I plan to get the lights fixed in the next month or so as part of my first round of warranty repairs. That said, if I have to replace failed lights when I'm on the road, then your process and photos will be invaluable.

OK, I am finally beginning to understand what the cups are for....but I have to ask, does the drip tube have to go thru the gasket to get inside the rv to then connect to the main down the wall drip tube ? Originally I thought the cups were on the interior part of the ac. On the old system wasn't there a drip pan inside accessible from the interior ?

GMFL,


I cannot thank you enough for documenting and posting your photos and process for this project here and at your other post regarding this project. What is going on behind the tank pans has been a relative mystery to me, and you have shed so much light on it. Thank you!

I really want to ditch my plastic drain valve (I have to us a lever to get it to open and it feels like the handle could snap at any time) You've helped me understand what this would entail. Again, Thank you!

Also, the quick connect for the line drain is a great idea. If I ever get into this project, I'd like to do the same thing.



-Paige