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Old 11-24-2006, 01:02 PM   #21
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Most every hi dollar car on the road today has LED tails.
Owner Operators of the 18 wheelers are going to LEDs too.
You can even buy LED trailor lights at Wally World.
Marker lights too.

LEDs are going to burn out bulbs.
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Old 01-05-2007, 11:56 AM   #22
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Klattu,

I've enjoyed this thread - I put it aside and saved it for when I had time to utilize it. A question - my AS is a Safari, which doesn't have the fancier light fixtures you show in yours. Mine are the ordinary RV fixtures, using the automotive-type bulbs (the number of which I don't have in front of me. Anyway, wound one light strip be sufficient for reading, or do you think it would require two of the LB3x6 strips per fixture? Put another way, Do you think one strip equals the output of one bulb?

Nice job.

Pat
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Old 01-05-2007, 04:27 PM   #23
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Electronic Flashers

Question? what do the electronic flashers do? Do you have to install them along with the LEDs on the tail lights.

Also, that is one nice motor home!
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Old 01-05-2007, 06:53 PM   #24
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Standard flashers will see the lower amp draw of an LED as a burnt out bulb and will go into fast-flash mode to alert you of a 'problem' Electronic flashers will not do this and will flash either a filament bulb or LED at the set rate of the flasher.
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Old 01-08-2007, 09:09 AM   #25
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Light Brite

Quote:
Originally Posted by pmclemore
Klattu,

I've enjoyed this thread - I put it aside and saved it for when I had time to utilize it. A question - my AS is a Safari, which doesn't have the fancier light fixtures you show in yours. Mine are the ordinary RV fixtures, using the automotive-type bulbs (the number of which I don't have in front of me. Anyway, wound one light strip be sufficient for reading, or do you think it would require two of the LB3x6 strips per fixture? Put another way, Do you think one strip equals the output of one bulb?

Nice job.

Pat
Are the type you have square with a single bulb?

Problem with LEDs are that their directional...they send light out like a spot light, not in all directions.
So they must point in the direction you want light, even if is thru a cover.

I used LEDs in the gold piviting lights under cabinets, but not in the small lamp. (see photo below)
Wanted the warm glow of bulbs in there. (LEDs are a very cold white)

So if bulb is in your fixtures side mounted, LEDs will not be so good.
Oh...wait, your wanting to do away with socket and use strips?
Yes, they will point down, and thru cover will look like many small bulbs.
For reading, put in as many as three
For just working light, one or two.
Is very easy to add strips as you decide amount of light you want.
They plug in end to end and come ready to extend.
You can stuff fixture and never reach amps of one bulb.

See the one in bedroom, I only used two for a softer light.

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Old 01-08-2007, 09:32 AM   #26
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Wide range of white LEDs

Quote:
Originally Posted by klattu
Wanted the warm glow of bulbs in there. (LEDs are a very cold white)
Klattu, it is great to see folks getting into alternative lighting. This may be helpful.

In the past most white LEDs were very cool white because of the blue/phospher conversion, now, LEDs are available at lower color temperatures. They range from about 8000 degree kevin (very, very cool, blueish) to about 2800 degree kelvin (very warm' yellowish). Most common are about 5000 degree kelvin (daylight). When purchasing LED lamps, most suppliers can tell you what color temperature is available. If you want to match your original lamps, use 3500 degree kelvin.

Hope this helps.

John
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Old 01-09-2007, 07:47 AM   #27
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how do you get the spots apart?

I unscrewed ours above the dinette but did not see how they come apart?
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Old 01-09-2007, 07:51 AM   #28
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On the spots,
You can replace the bulb with a LED group that fits in just like a bulb.
No need to take apart.

Heres a link...be sure to get the 24s..anything more is too big, anything less is too dim.

24 LED 1156/57 SPECIFICATIONS
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Old 01-09-2007, 09:49 AM   #29
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Clearance Marker Lights

Anybody have any recommendations on replacement LED clearance/marker lights. I have the double bull version.
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Old 01-09-2007, 10:49 AM   #30
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Majic Marker

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marshall
Anybody have any recommendations on replacement LED clearance/marker lights. I have the double bull version.
Those are easy to get...
Think Wal Mart has them, most all auto parts carry them now.

I used one of these to teat.
Will convert later, as $6.50 adds up fast.

MDB Lamp Dimensions (mm)

Look for ones with a base made of either black or color of lens.
The white does not last long outside.
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Old 01-10-2007, 11:50 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmclemore
Klattu,

I've enjoyed this thread - I put it aside and saved it for when I had time to utilize it. A question - my AS is a Safari, which doesn't have the fancier light fixtures you show in yours. Mine are the ordinary RV fixtures, using the automotive-type bulbs (the number of which I don't have in front of me. Anyway, wound one light strip be sufficient for reading, or do you think it would require two of the LB3x6 strips per fixture? Put another way, Do you think one strip equals the output of one bulb?

Nice job.

Pat
I'm wondering the same thing, and there doesn't seem to be an easy way to compare "apples to apples"...but it seems to me that since they have a substitute 1157 bulb that has 24 LEDs in it, and these strips have only 6....they'd be about 1/4 the brightness...but since I don't know how bright the 24 LED "bulb" light is compared to an actual 1157 bulb...
it would be neat if they were bright enough. looks like those strips would fit nicely in the 70's vintage overhead light fixtures, which take 6 bulbs, and suck copious amounts of power. But no point if they don't throw enough light to see.
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Old 01-10-2007, 03:45 PM   #32
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I found that the 36-LED overhead light (P/N PCB-W36) from superbrightleds.com was not anywhere near as bright as the incandescent bulbs in the original fixtures, and at $20 each I'd need to pay $60 per fixture to get about 1/3 as much light - and very very cold blue light at that. I know other companies have warm white LEDs and I plan on trying some of those, but I think I'm going to use compact fluorescents in the overhead lights instead. The price/performance for the LEDs for general lighting just isn't there and I like CFs just fine. I may use LEDs in the kitchen counter lighting to replace G4 halogen bulbs.

On the other hand, I found the 24-LED amber PCB light worked great in the teardrop marker lights outside:

(Please ignore the sealant mess, scratches, unshaved rivets, etc). Just a little brighter than the bulb was, but with a much greater angle of view (i.e. actually visible from directly behind the trailer), since the bulb mount inside the lens was removed. Mounting them is more problematic, as the PCB gets in the way of the hole for the original screw in the lens. I used indoor mounting tape (the white foam kind) to mount the PCB, and then used clear silicone to fill the screw hole in the lens and attach it to the base. I haven't been back since doing that to see how strong the bond is there, whether I'd trust it at 70mph. If that doesn't look good, I'll have to figure out a plan B - perhaps drilling a new screw hole in the lens that won't interfere with the PCB, or using epoxy glue to attach the lens - the problem there is clamping though. I plan on replacing all the bulbs in the exterior lights with these LEDs if I can get it to work.

I also got a reading lamp, the 19-LED white 1156-base bulb from them. It's too cold for me, but I think it gives enough light to use in the reading lamps, so I'll look for a warm-white version elsewhere.
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Old 01-10-2007, 05:23 PM   #33
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Hearding Cats

Show some photos of your inside lights your thinking swapping over to LEDs.

I could answer questions better, if not the same as ones shown on first page.

Main thing to remember is LEDs are directional...light goes straight out when compared to bulbs.
LEDs = 15^
Bulbs = 360^

So if socket is sideways, LED would just hit the side of light fixture, with very little getting out where you want it.
Tail lights are good example, I had to use LEDs mounted on boards to face out.

The 6 LED strips compare with a flouresenct of same length.
I used 6 x 6 strips in one by stove for more light than flouresencts had.
Used only 2 in bedroom for a soft light...perfect glow without blinding sleepers.

Bathroom example is good to show how bright the strips are.
Mirror is removed in the photos, and light is bright, lights sink, counter and floor very well.
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Old 01-11-2007, 11:42 AM   #34
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I was interested enough that I went ahead and bought a couple of the 1156-PCB-W36 White LED Lamps (these are the flat ones) to try in the fixtures over the front couch, and 6 of the light strips to play with in other places.

I'll let you guys know how it comes out. Once I get happy with how this works, then I may just upgrade a few at a time to reduce the sticker shock.

I'm a real fan of Klattu's leadership!

Pat
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Old 01-11-2007, 11:47 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klattu
Show some photos of your inside lights your thinking swapping over to LEDs.
how 'bout this one:

and with the cover on:

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Old 01-11-2007, 12:00 PM   #36
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Chuck, I saw some on that site that were angled 90 degrees from the socket - that is, they would fit into each bulb's socket but would point down.

Pat
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Old 01-11-2007, 12:34 PM   #37
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Perfect photo...now I understand your problem.

I would gut it...loose the bulbs and sockets.

Replace them with the 6 LED strips down each side...
Maybe even a double row down each side.
Probably 3 to a row? for a total of 12 strips.

And if switch is hi and low, or has two 'ons' you could make a dim and bright setting.

That cover should defuse light very well.
It will look like flouresent tubes.

Save those sockets...good for some other project.

Think how low your battery power bill will be after going to LEDs too.
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Old 01-11-2007, 12:57 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmclemore
Chuck, I saw some on that site that were angled 90 degrees from the socket - that is, they would fit into each bulb's socket but would point down.

Pat
yeah, I saw those. there's a disclaimer with them: "These bulbs are not suitable for overhead lighting in campers or other applications that require long on-times". Plus, they're 15 bucks...EACH!

Quote:
Originally Posted by klattu
Think how low your battery power bill will be after going to LEDs too
yeah, well, that's all fine and good, but if they're not bright enough...and I still wonder...I can already save electricity and not see what I'm doing by just leaving them off.

fwiw, the switching on this fixture is a 3-position jobby: a, b, a+b. a=the two inner bulbs; b=the 4 outer bulbs. a+b=all six bulbs.

I was thinking "1 strip per bulb"...and that would be expensive enough. But If I need to use 2 to rival the light from a conventional bulb...what is it Larry the Cable Guy says? "GOOD LOWRD!!"

I could probably hire some SOB owner to stand there and hold a flashlight for me for less $$$.
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Old 01-11-2007, 02:14 PM   #39
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I think I'd do a replacement with 12V fluorescent tubes or CF bulbs, if there's enough space to get that inside the fixture. For example I think you could dismantle a Thin-lite fixture and install all the parts under the diffuser there - maybe find one with a broken or faded diffuser. I have a couple of Thin-lites I think I'll probably find a similar use for - I don't like the fixtures, but the bulbs & ballast are fine.

My 1964 has 3 of those incandescent bulbs in a recessed fixture with a diffuser over the top, but all my diffusers were so aged & cracked as to be no good anyway. I plan on replacing the whole fixtures with some that have standard Edison-base bulb holders, or converting fixtures that used other kinds of bulbs, and then installing 12V CF bulbs in those. This place seems to have the best prices on those although they only stock 13W and 23W versions (equivalent of 60W and 100W incandescent).

But for reading lights very directional is OK, and very low-power desirable so I may pick up some warm white bulbs, maybe some like these. (I think those are the same bayonet base as in my reading lamps.) And for counter lights, I have some fixtures from Ikea that take G4 halogen bulbs that I may replace with something like these, although each 3-lamp fixture would still be $75 or so. Ow. Maybe I can live without counter lights when not on shore power and stick with 30W of halogens.
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Old 01-11-2007, 07:06 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marshall
Anybody have any recommendations on replacement LED clearance/marker lights. I have the double bull version.
Marshall, try LED R US ~ LED Lights, Mounts, Bezels, & Truck Parts and you will find the bullseye red and amber clearance lights. I replaced my 2 front amber lights and 2 corner red lights with their product. I will replace the center 3 clearance lights this summer. You have to modify the base slightly for the negative wire which I did with my dremel tool but they look fantastic and bright. I also replaced my front white 2 bulb bullseye light which looks over my hitch with one of their bullseye clearance lights. Much more light.
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