Visit our Popular Forums

NorCal Bambi · 03-03-2006, 09:49 PM

Congratulations on the floor. It's a major step. I remember it well. Looks great!

Jim & Susan · 03-03-2006, 10:26 PM

Thanks NorCal. It was a long road, indeed.

I rambeled on about how we bolted the floor down. Here's bit better explanation.

The outside bolts, the ones that go thru the outriggers and U-channel, can be seen in the first picture. One thing we did wrong was to use a really wimpy washer. We had to go back and remove the whole thing, use a case hardened washer, then put the nut on, then the lock nut. I think with this arrangement, if I ever have to remove a bolt, I won't have to deal with bent bolts that have to be drilled or cut out in some way.

The next pic is of the center of the floor at each joint between the flooring plywood. In this era trailer, wherever there is a joint of that type, there is a 5/8" piece of ply between the flooring ply and the lateral frame cross memeber. At the factory, they were nailed in. We chose to use wood screws to attach the flooring ply to the smaller piece below. Then the whole thing was screwed into the frame using those weird self tapping screws mentioned a several posts back.

Next time, I'll talk about the bolts that hold the whole thing to the main rails. I'm just too tired right now.

Jim

Over59 · 03-05-2006, 07:58 AM

Very nice attention to detail. If the Full Monty Club is together at a rally ( International 2007?) we should write a book on doing a floor. There's alot more to it than it seems. Looks like you did a particularly excellent job.

Jim & Susan · 03-05-2006, 08:45 PM

Thanks for the kind words, '59. At the rate I'm progressing, 2007 just might be doable!

Here's a few pics concerning the way the I finished the U-channels/bolts. These pics are of the area around the rear door/trunk area. The first shows the entire area. What I did ways to use a fine "grit" Scotch Guard pad (in this case, the grey ones, the white ones are better for this purpose, but I couldn't find any) to "sand" the u-channel. Vacuum up the dust, use lacquer thinner to clean it all up, then a coat of automotive paint on the u-channel, then bolt it all together. The reason for the paint is that there was some corrosion of the aluminum in some of these areas, especially in the rear channel areas. I can't emphasize this enough, the area around in the butt end of the trailer leaks like a seive. All of these leaks have to be stopped and extra measures need to be taken to prevent damage from future leaks. That area was completely rotted out in this trailer.

It may be a colossal mistake, but I went ahead and used SikaFlex 221 over all of the bolts and screws in the U-channel all the way around the trailer. I'm getting very anal about water on the wood floor. I figure that anything that pokes a hole the wood needs to be sealed from above to keep the water out of the wood. Does that make sense? So, every one of the bolts that go thru the outriggers and U channel were sealed with Sika. Same with the 3/4" sheet metal screws. Seal 'em up, me thinks!

Pic number two shows the heavy metal slugs that are used to hold the whole deal to the main frame rails. POR-15 on the bottom, Sika along the sides to seal out the water, Por-15 on the top (last step tomorrow). The last pic shows a regular bolt that has been Sika'ed to keep the water out of the wood.

I hope this makes sense to everybody, if not, just ask. I've got a ton of pictures to depict it better.

Take care.

Jim

Jim & Susan · 03-05-2006, 08:52 PM

So, here's the acid test. What do y'all think, new axles or not? I think yes, but can I get by for another year or so If I don't take too many 1000 mile trips? Enquiring minds need to know!

Jim & Susan · 03-05-2006, 09:03 PM

Finally found the missing "M" and the window lock I needed. Many thanks to the folks at Colaw RV. They were bit expensive, but well worth it. These should be the only "vintage" parts needed for this redo, so I guess $43.00 isn't too bad for both, including shipping.

Here's the link. Just e-mail 'em and they will very promptly give you a call. The whole thing took less than a week.

http://www.colawrvsalvage.com/

Take care,

Jim

Jim & Susan · 03-05-2006, 09:09 PM

Does anybody know where I can find the original colors for this banner? I would like to repaint all of this to original, but what would they be?

Take care,

Jim

NorCal Bambi · 03-06-2006, 08:55 PM

Adding a paint question to yours. Does anyone know the paint formula for the Airstream Blue? I would like to reproduce the color.
Don

Over59 · 03-06-2006, 09:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim & Susan

So, here's the acid test. What do y'all think, new axles or not? I think yes, but can I get by for another year or so If I don't take too many 1000 mile trips? Enquiring minds need to know!

Looks like you are already having wavy skin issues above the axels. I'ld change them if you can. There are options. The new axel on my Caravel made a huge difference.

Jim & Susan · 03-07-2006, 05:44 PM

Don, I thought that I read somewhere on the Forum that you could still buy the Airstream blue? From Airstream? Maybe I'm not remembering it right. I'm wondering what the other colors are on the name badge/banner. It looks like maybe white around the Airstream name and the Overlander logo. Maybe somebody will have an old sales' brochure or soemthing.

'59, at least some of the wavy aluminum is because I haven't reattached that part of the skin to the wheel wells inside on the curbside (first pic). I seem to remember reading on the Forum that you can judge the "health" of the axles based upon how low they "ride on the wheels". I just can't remember the where the break point is.

Jim

ankornuta · 03-07-2006, 08:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim & Susan

Thanks for the kind words, '59. At the rate I'm progressing, 2007 just might be doable!

Here's a few pics concerning the way the I finished the U-channels/bolts. These pics are of the area around the rear door/trunk area.
Jim

Wow! I don't think that's going to be leaking

Just out of curiousity, what type of automotive paint did you use on the u-channel?

ankornuta · 03-07-2006, 08:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Over59

Looks like you are already having wavy skin issues above the axels. I'ld change them if you can. There are options. The new axel on my Caravel made a huge difference.

If you don't mind my asking, how is the "wavy skin" related to needing new axles? I just thought that had something to do with the skin over the axles only being connected to the relatively flimsy wheel wells (when compared to the u-channel).

I'm asking in part because before I yanked my body, the side of my trailer looked a little like that as well.

moogie32 · 03-07-2006, 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim & Susan

I seem to remember reading on the Forum that you can judge the "health" of the axles based upon how low they "ride on the wheels". I just can't remember the where the break point is.

Jim

Jim - I seem to remember that the breaking point is the very top of the wheel. I think I saw that in one of those Airstream Life Ebay articles, maybe Winter '05? Mine look similar to yours and I'm not sure whether to replace them either... Diane

Jim & Susan · 03-07-2006, 08:13 PM

I used Wally World cheapo in a spray can. It's there to protect the aluminum and won't be seen, so I didn't see any need to spend a lot of money.

The "wavy" alum CAN BE a sign of rear end sag or other frame/axle bends, twists and so forth. Rear end sag is a big issue in longer trailers. My frame is pretty steady, tho. I just wanted a couple of the guys who had dealt with it to take a look-see.

vajeep · 03-09-2006, 08:08 AM

Jim,
A way back you mentioned a "smell" from your fresh water tank. Our 1976 Overlander has a "smell" that is also coming from the fresh water tank. What did you find??

Jim & Susan · 03-09-2006, 10:22 AM

Abe, take a look at post number 107 for some pics. What I found once the tank was out was that the tank had about 5 or 6 gallons of water in it that had this green gook floating around in it. This was probably caused by two things. First, the water inlet on the curbside of the trailer leaked when it rained. The rainwater would dribble in and partially fill the tank. The green stuff was probably caused by anti-freeze left in the tank too long and the normal processes that take place in stagnent water.

I read that bit about the anti-freeze somewhere here on the forum a few months bcak. Anti-freeze left in the tank that is not flushed in the spring and the subsequent lack of proper tank cleaning can cause this condition. Complicating all of this is the fact the PO had re-plumbed the trailer and bypassed the tank altogether. There's no telling how long it's been in that condition.

The good news is that it's almost completely clean now (smells almost normal). I was able to clean out all of the semi-solid green gook, sanitize it with a couple of fillings of clorox/water and a cleanser purchased at the local RV store.

The last thing to do is to try to clean a thin brown film off of the inside of the tank. Above the "water line" of where the bad water sat for that long period of time, is a thin film of brown stuff. I've let it sit for about a month now to dry. Dad said to try to add 20 to 30 lbs of ice and fill up as much as possile with water, then add a box of rock salt (the stuff you use for making ice cream). Do all of this while it is sitting the bed of the pick up and then drive it around for a while to "shake the whole thing up". Drain, rinse a couple of times, then see how it looks. May need to repeat the process again.

Hopefully this will work, the cost for a new one for this trialer is about $500 and I am really hoping to avoid that cost if possible.

Hope this helps.

Jim

vajeep · 03-09-2006, 11:34 AM

Jim,

Yes it helps. Congrats on your "rivet master" status. We get our Overlander out of winter storage this weekend and I will let you know what I find!

Jim & Susan · 03-13-2006, 08:29 PM

I had one of those "Ah HA!" moments today. Of course, this may turn out to be one of those "Uh Oh" moments in the end. Let me explain.

I've spent the last couple of weeks finishing up the new floor and cleaning off old, leaky Vulkem and replacing it with new Vulkem. In many places that I've painstakingly removed the old Vulkem, I'm finding corrosion underneath. Just as luck would have it, Louie, my airline mechanic buddy, stopped by as I was discovering some of this corrosion. So I ask Louie, "why is there corrosion here, underneath the Vulkem?" His answer, "water is getting behind the Vulkem someplace." To show y'all just how much a rookie I am, I had no idea that water, just simple water, could cause these problems. I suppose I've always assumed that aluminum was, in a sense, stainless, at least as far as simple water is concerned. One more thing to keep in mind. The really bad news is that now I have a lot more Vulkem to remove and corrosion to clean up. ARGGGGGG......!!!!

The aluminum corrosion is a couple of rivets to the right of where I've written "leak" in red marker. The white powdery stuff.

Jim

NorCal Bambi · 03-13-2006, 10:24 PM

Jim, looks very familiar. I've been working on the same thing now for several days. I plan on sealing the outside seams with Alcoa gutter seal. It seems to work well and when careful it hardly shows up.
Don

Jim & Susan · 04-13-2006, 04:58 PM

Remember that “Ah Ha” moment? It turned into an “Uh Oh” moment. Here’s why. The corrosion that is “behind” the Vulkem is because water is sneaking in from some other source, pooling behind the Vulkem and corroding the aluminum.

The first picture is of the roof of the camper. The gasket material on top, underneath that vent, has failed. This allows water and debris to fall down inside the assembly and collect there. This has caused corrosion due to constant contact with the water and debris. The problem I have now is that I have to remove that gasket, replace it, and reseal everything inside and out. This, of course, means that the repairs already made inside are only temporary. Sooner or later, everything has to be taken apart, cleaned and reassembled. I can keep the water out for now, but the “patch” will need to be replaced with a permanent solution in the near future. This is going to be a real pain. Them ain’t pop rivets in the roof!