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05-24-2005, 03:45 AM
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#21
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Rivet Master
1974 27' Overlander
1954 26' Romany Cruiser
1960 26' Overlander
Rockingham County
, New Hampshire
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 4,410
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Refective!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferroequine
At this point, I've got the top done, the side done down to the middle blue strip, and the entire door. Compounded twice with F7, and then Cyclo'd with C and then S. I think we're getting somewhere!
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Very nice! Just finished ours for the seasons camping. Now you can shave outside!
__________________
'74 Overlander (T-O-Bee)
'46 Spartan Manor (Rosie)
'54 Cruiser (Bogart)
'60 Overlander (Hoagy)
2007 GMC Sierra 2500 HD Duramax
WBCCI 1754 - AIR # 6281
www.balrgn.com
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05-24-2005, 09:39 AM
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#22
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3 Rivet Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 100
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I've also found that using Nitrile gloves while polishing greatly diminishes how dirty your hands get. That, and you're not gettng any of the Nuvite on your skin -- since the label on the side of the jar warns against it. These are the same gloves that mechanics wear these days.
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05-24-2005, 11:00 AM
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#23
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Rivet Master
2006 19' Safari SE
NW of Boston
, Massachusetts
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 987
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Ferroequine -- thanks for documenting your progress. Your Safari is only one year older, and one axle less than ours so it's great seeing what it looks like as you go. It's looking really nice! Can't wait 'til we get around to doing ours.
__________________
Doug & Jamie, AIR #650
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05-24-2005, 11:28 AM
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#24
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3 Rivet Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 100
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Still some odd spots
I've still got spots left on the end caps after stripping with Removeall 220. I've tried compounding the heck out of them with F7, without much luck. Do I need to finish stripping them with a solvent such as Por15? What could they be?
BTW, on a side note, I discovered that the street front quarter panels have been replaced / apart at some point. There is a nice neat line of Olympic(?) rivets on all the seams, including the window. PO never mentioned this.
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05-24-2005, 11:42 AM
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#25
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a.k.a. Ambassador Tim
1960 28' Ambassador
Northern
, California
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,921
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Looks to me like filform corrosion. That is corrosion that starts when the original clearcoat starts failing. Oxygen gets in and the corrosion starts behind the clearcoat.
I had a lot of this on my trailer. The only way to get it off was repeated compounding with F7. It took between 10 - 12 passes over the same area very very slowly. Like one inch per second to get rid of it.
Check out these two posts from our polsihing thread.
http://www.airforums.com/forum...&postcount=171
http://www.airforums.com/forum...&postcount=173
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05-24-2005, 11:47 AM
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#26
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Rivet Master
1974 27' Overlander
1954 26' Romany Cruiser
1960 26' Overlander
Rockingham County
, New Hampshire
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 4,410
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferroequine
I've still got spots left on the end caps after stripping with Removeall 220. I've tried compounding the heck out of them with F7, without much luck. Do I need to finish stripping them with a solvent such as Por15? What could they be?
BTW, on a side note, I discovered that the street front quarter panels have been replaced / apart at some point. There is a nice neat line of Olympic(?) rivets on all the seams, including the window. PO never mentioned this.
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I used Por 15 on mine the upper rear end cap has similar spots on mine. There is only so much you can compound out with out going to fine sanding. Sooooo I figure that is far as I go for this year. I want to see how this weathers before I go further.
On a side (funny not funny) note. Mine is so shiny it was savagely attacked by a bird or birds. Did quite a number scratching the heck out of the back below the tail lights..........
__________________
'74 Overlander (T-O-Bee)
'46 Spartan Manor (Rosie)
'54 Cruiser (Bogart)
'60 Overlander (Hoagy)
2007 GMC Sierra 2500 HD Duramax
WBCCI 1754 - AIR # 6281
www.balrgn.com
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05-24-2005, 05:15 PM
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#27
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3 Rivet Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Safari Tim
Looks to me like filform corrosion. That is corrosion that starts when the original clearcoat starts failing. Oxygen gets in and the corrosion starts behind the clearcoat.
I had a lot of this on my trailer. The only way to get it off was repeated compounding with F7. It took between 10 - 12 passes over the same area very very slowly. Like one inch per second to get rid of it.
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Thanks Safari Tim & Balrgn,
At least I'm not going crazy then.
When you say 10-12 passes, you mean applications right? I wonder if it would be worthwhile to get some heavier cutting Nuvite to attach this filform; or would that permanently scratch the aluminum?
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05-24-2005, 07:29 PM
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#28
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Rivet Master
1974 27' Overlander
1954 26' Romany Cruiser
1960 26' Overlander
Rockingham County
, New Hampshire
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 4,410
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferroequine
Thanks Safari Tim & Balrgn,
At least I'm not going crazy then.
When you say 10-12 passes, you mean applications right? I wonder if it would be worthwhile to get some heavier cutting Nuvite to attach this filform; or would that permanently scratch the aluminum?
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I tried an area with some 3000 grit. (yup three thousand) Worked pretty good. Used soapy water to help with the process while hand sanding. It polished out with out a problem with F7, 2 passes. Next go around I'll try that on the back cap.
__________________
'74 Overlander (T-O-Bee)
'46 Spartan Manor (Rosie)
'54 Cruiser (Bogart)
'60 Overlander (Hoagy)
2007 GMC Sierra 2500 HD Duramax
WBCCI 1754 - AIR # 6281
www.balrgn.com
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05-24-2005, 08:00 PM
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#29
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a.k.a. Ambassador Tim
1960 28' Ambassador
Northern
, California
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,921
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Yes, 10-12 applications over the same area. Some swear by G6.
You might try a sample of that.
Looking good though!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferroequine
Thanks Safari Tim & Balrgn,
At least I'm not going crazy then.
When you say 10-12 passes, you mean applications right? I wonder if it would be worthwhile to get some heavier cutting Nuvite to attach this filform; or would that permanently scratch the aluminum?
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05-28-2005, 09:30 PM
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#30
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3 Rivet Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 100
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Progress
Got some more done today. The entire curbside (not counting the end cap) is now done.
I think I now know why the 17' & 19' trailers are popular... There's less to polish!
My awning now looks twice as big.
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05-29-2005, 08:52 AM
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#31
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4 Rivet Member
1978 31' Excella 500
Palm Bay
, Florida
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 269
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May I suggest a trip to The Mannings project at perfectpolish.com. They talk in detail about this problem and many other polishing solutions.
This is where I got my info. It's all good
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06-13-2005, 01:26 PM
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#32
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3 Rivet Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 100
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Well, it poured buckets for the entire first weekend of June, so I got squat done other than fix a few interior things.
Saturday was overcast but dry, so I managed to get the street side of the '75 compounded and cyclo'd with F7. Still got hit with a thundershower in the afternoon. The rain beads up nicely though, and after drying off with some towels, we were back in business.
I still need to go over the whole side with S.
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06-13-2005, 02:00 PM
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#33
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Rivet Master
1974 27' Overlander
1954 26' Romany Cruiser
1960 26' Overlander
Rockingham County
, New Hampshire
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 4,410
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NICE JOB!!!
__________________
'74 Overlander (T-O-Bee)
'46 Spartan Manor (Rosie)
'54 Cruiser (Bogart)
'60 Overlander (Hoagy)
2007 GMC Sierra 2500 HD Duramax
WBCCI 1754 - AIR # 6281
www.balrgn.com
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06-13-2005, 04:48 PM
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#34
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3 Rivet Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 100
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Some more pictures of the street side, along with a "before shot". Still some work to do on the front caps.
I'm tackling the tops of the end caps next, and am curious if Nuvite G6 will work any better on all that filliform. My arm muscles were a little sore after this weekend!
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06-13-2005, 09:00 PM
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#35
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2 Rivet Member
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 94
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Ferro,
Just wondering where you got your Nuvite in Canada, or did you pick it up online, and did you buy the Cyclo in Canada. Also how much if you don't mind me asking.
Thanks,
Ken
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06-13-2005, 10:36 PM
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#36
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418
2007 25' Safari FB SE
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1974 29' Ambassador
Yucca Valley
, California
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 1963 26' Overlander
Posts: 4,804
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferroequine
Some more pictures of the street side, along with a "before shot". Still some work to do on the front caps.
I'm tackling the tops of the end caps next, and am curious if Nuvite G6 will work any better on all that filliform. My arm muscles were a little sore after this weekend!
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I skipped the Nuvite on teh filiform corosion and used some Heavy Metal polish that a dear friend gave to me to try out.
I must say that it kicks a.. on teh Nuvite in terms of cutting power and initial finish. Less swirls, and a much quicker cutting action. However, it makes an ungodly mess out of things if you're not really careful and start your compounder slowly. The stuff is very runny..
I used the heavy cut polish. they also have fine and mediom cut.
I will still use the Nuvite/cyclo, but probably more for the finishing than the compounding. My 63 has severe corrosion, and the Heavy metal is much more efficiant cutting it then the Nuvite. I have tried C, F7, G6, and F9, and the Heavy Metal still seems far superior, aside from the flinging mess. It requires covering finished areas to protect from flinging abrasive polish onto them.
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06-13-2005, 11:51 PM
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#37
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3 Rivet Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TroutStream
Just wondering where you got your Nuvite in Canada, or did you pick it up online, and did you buy the Cyclo in Canada. Also how much if you don't mind me asking.
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Hi Ken,
After a futile search for a Canadian source for Nuvite and Cyclo Polishers, I finally broke down and ordered a giant "care package" from PerfectPolish. Tom was extremely helpful, and since I ordered $600 worth of Nuvite, Cyclo & cloths, the $40 UPS brokerage fee for the package was liveable. The package got to my office in about a week.
Thus far, I am very happy with the Nuvite and the Cyclo.
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06-14-2005, 02:22 PM
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#38
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2 Rivet Member
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 94
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Actually, I had to import the Heavy Metal as well... no CDN distributors. I may just go back and try the HM course as Uwe suggests.
Ken.
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06-21-2005, 10:55 AM
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#39
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3 Rivet Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 100
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The rain has finally stopped
Well, after 7 days of heavy rains, and flooding everywhere, the sun finally peeked out!
We have received over 10 inches of rain over the last two weeks (including 5 in a 48 hour period starting Thursday), where our monthly average is around 3, and our yearly is around 15.5! So needless to say, the 2 rivers going through the city have all flooded big time as they handle the water & runoff from the foothills, the dam holding the water resorvoir has had the water go over the spillway twice in one week (which has never happened since they built it in the 40's) and a city of 1 million is in state of emergency with severe (level 4) water restrictions due to all the silt into our water treatment plants. (The next level is a rationing and boil order, IIRC). Lots of flooded homes etc. Thankfully we only had a little dampness in our own basement, since we are higher up...
So I was finally able to do a bit more work on the Safari. I've compounded the bottom and middle of the rear caps, and cyclo'd with F7 and S. If the rains stay away, hopefully more S on the rest of the trailer.
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07-04-2005, 09:22 AM
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#40
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3 Rivet Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 100
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Nuvite G6 rocks
I received my tub of Nuvite G6 a little while back, and this weekend I battled the end caps. Especially the rear was very corroded and had a lot of filli-form on it. The G6 works great! What took me 8 passes with "C" was done in 3 passes with G6. The swirls polished right out with two passes of the Cyclo with F7, and then a final Cyclo with "S".
I just have to finish around the #$@*(@#!$ letters, and the front cap needs to be cyclo'ed. I think there is light at the end of the tunnel!
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