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Sparky57 07-11-2012 11:01 PM

Can opener approach
 
Ok- Got all set up and then realized the rivets I have are too small for windows-- need the longer ones! Shoot.

Started on removing what's left of the belly pan... Been dreading this, my BP is wrapped around the c-channel (which I noticed is made of 6061-t6 aluminum, so my BP probably is too). I used my angled tip needle nose pliers and pried up a corner of the folded BP off of the the c-channel from the inside of the trailer... then just ripped the folded piece right off in long strips - came apart just like a can opener. I drilled out the rivets, knocked out the hidden rivets and boom, in 30 minutes I dropped 8' of BP. That was so fun. Can't wait to get it all down.

nmbosa 07-11-2012 11:07 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Great update on your progress. Everything is looking first class. I wish I had some good advice on the riveting, but I found it really came down to lots of practice. Once you get it figured out, you will quickly become an expert.

I love the original dealer plate. My suggestion would be to clean it up and keep it. They are a cool piece of the trailer's history.

I've been meaning to shoot you a photo of the light you sent us. Here it is. We had looked all over for a good replacement light for the kitchen and couldn't find anything that looked right. The period light you sent us is perfect. I installed an LED bulb and it provides nice lighting over the sink area.

Can't tell you how cool it is to see another old Overlander getting a proper restoration so close to us. I hope we can meet up on a camping trip sometime.

Norm

Sparky57 07-12-2012 04:34 PM

Bunks
 
Light looks awesome- love it. Glad to see it installed, happy it got re-used and that'd be really cool if we could meet one day. That'd be fun.

Looking through your blog and I am doing the bunks too- I have 3 daughters so was planning on 4 bunks. Is your top bunk same width as bottom? How wide are they? 30"?

Mark

nmbosa 07-12-2012 11:31 PM

Mark,

The top bunks are a bit smaller than the bottom bunks and are probably only suitable for young children (maybe up to 9 or 10 years old and up to about 100 pounds I'd guess). The top bunks are 28" x 75" and 4 1/4 inch tall/deep.

Let me know if you need any other dimensions or more detailed photos. Brian and Lynetta (Someday '59) built their own bunks for their trailer and they turned out great.

I really like the bunk beds. I've noticed that if you look at lots of photos of the older trailers, there seem to have been factory installed bunk beds and dealer installed bunk beds. Mine had the dealer installed (it's on the bill of sale I got with the trailer). Many of the factory installed bunks (probably not all as things were pretty random back in those days) have windows for the bunks. You can tell the factory bunk trailers from the two sets of short wide windows in the bedroom area - one high and one low. I'd love to get my hands on a set of those small windows and install them in my trailer someday.

Norm

54breadloaf 07-17-2012 07:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Someday'59 (Post 1110966)
I agree! That pile looks like candy to me! I'm desperately looking for some light fixtures, knobs, and some other hardware!

I've got some pinch latches, lighting fixtures, drawers and some door faces if you want them. They are pretty rough but if you pay for shipping, I'll send them to you.

JT

54breadloaf 07-17-2012 08:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nmbosa (Post 1111237)
What Marcus has basically pointed out is that any full-floor replacement is for all practical purposes a shell-off project. It's just a matter of where the shell is stored during the work. Take a look at Someday59's blog. They hit a point where their shell began to fall off the frame. It can be done, but you just have to be aware of the fact that once the bellypan and floor is removed, the shell is airborne and can come crashing to the ground around your frame.

Norm

This wasn't the way it was in my case, at least. When I bought my trailer, the U channel was removed, there was no belly pan and the PO had screwed some 2x4's into the floor around the perimeter and screwed through the rivet holes into the 2x4's to keep it all together. the ribs of the shell sit on the U channel which is bolted to the floor on the perimeter. In my case, the ribs were sitting on the floor perimeter. I was able to tow the trailer about 50 miles at 55 mph to get it home in that condition but I wouldn't recommend doing that. My point is that as long as the shell ribs are kept inside the floor perimeter, there is no way for it to collapse around the floor.

JT

54breadloaf 08-23-2012 05:31 PM

Sparky,

I'm looking at your picture of the framed in steps, actually looking past the steps and seeing the tank brackets you installed for the holding tanks. Do you have any more detailed photos of that project? That's next on my list. Thanks, JT

Sparky57 08-23-2012 11:06 PM

Belly pan blues, a nightmare leak and other "progress..."
 
OK, lets start with the leak in my black water tank, right where the flange of the tank (the male part) is glued to the ABS female part... it looks like some idiot didn't get a good twist on the joint during assembly.

So, re-gluing didn't work, just slowed the leak.
Sealing from the inside wouldn't work- can't get access to the tank or the pipe that far up.
Can't take the flange off the tank- it is part of the tank...
Can't fathom replacing the tank- it is possible but really it is part of the trailer now and is plumbed in with tornado rinsers and wired with sensors....not to mention expensive to swap out....
So, I chiseled, swore, cut, pried, prayed, swore and about 4 hours later I was able to coax the abs joint apart....Then I sanded down the tank flange, filled the little scars with JB Weld and put on a Fernco coupling and some pure silicone for good measure. Did this instead of re-gluing it. Didn't have the guts to re-glue it...Tested it out and it holds. Learned a lesson about rushing things...

Also did the first layer of insulation, just prodex against the skin. Next is Roxul Safe and Sound...

Next the belly pan....6061 T6 ,032. I thought it would be easier to bend, have more memory...it is hard to work, and the banana wraps are being a real bugger. I don't have templates and I don't have a clue how to rebuild them. Any tips? Anyone with a template, preferably for a 57 Overlander? I will just build the 4 corners, then put the remainder on around the wraps....but what a crazy corner to try to fabricate...Where to you start? The front? And then work around the side? Yikes....

Before the belly pan goes back on I will insulate the floor with 2" foam insulation, so I'll get a start on that. Using this styrofoam stuff with a reflective coating. Looks good and I am a sucker for shiny things.

Also, got a custom made tire holder ready to go on - did the test fit today and it fits. Just need to rig up a way to hold it in place...

@Breadloaf: I think I have some more pics- but post 81 has a few too. I basically used L channel screwed to the cross members. I set it back an 1/8 " from the floor level - enough for the tank flange to rest on. Then I bent up some 2" flat iron to the shape of the tank and screwed it to the cross- members....Had to weld a bit, grind a bit, etc...

Sparky57 08-28-2012 11:01 AM

pics...
 
4 Attachment(s)
A few pics...
The first layer of insulation inside
The start of the under-floor insulation (Using recycled EPS foam witha reflective layer- 2", r7. Did the door with it too. Thinking of using the 1" EPS now instead of Roxul on the inside shell....that stuff is heavy, 25lbs a bag and I need 5 bags....alot of weight for a little warmth)
The tire carrier, yet to be installed.
The new, repaired and leak proof plumbing

Sparky57 09-02-2012 12:31 AM

A few days off work meant more time to work on the trailer. Managed to finally install the rear window with my newly arrived longer buck rivets...installed a , new back frame seal and frosted glass. Looks good. Built a new access door too, the old one was badly dented. Used 2024 t3 alclad and it didn't bend very well and the doubled over edges cracked, so I buck riveted that together too.

Sparky57 09-02-2012 12:48 AM

Installed the tire carrier too and need to decide if I am going to powder coat it black or leave it aluminum. Thoughts?
Also rebuilt the door completely, stripped the paint from the inner skins then sanded the corrosion off the door....lots of rust...that was a big surprise, had to sand it, then used alumiprep and alodine, then painted it with Tremclad rust paint primer. Installed the door lock, then reinstalled it, then after hours of trying to make it work discovered that it needed to be rekeyed again, this time properly! Now with the lock working I polished the inner skins. Replaced all the door seals after I picked all the old door seal glue off. Stripped the paint from the screen door latches and sands them down and primed them then painted them Hammered aluminum color. Installed the new screen. Old screen was brass...briefly considered cleaning it up, then went for galvanized instead...have to draw the line somewhere! Sanded the door frame down and then put the skin back on the door. Just need to buck rivet the door trim in a couple spots, then replace the door hinge rivets with buck rivets, and it is done!
Also made a paper template of the front banana wrap and gave it to my father in law to try to duplicate...cross fingers!

Minno 09-02-2012 11:12 AM

Wow, you've been busy! Gotta see some pictures!

Kay

pbearsailor 09-02-2012 12:23 PM

Looking really great, Mark! :wally: Good luck on those belly pan corners--I absolutely hated that part on mine.

Is your back window all frosted? My only thought there, having pulled mine a bit now, is that it's really nice to be able to see what is behind you by looking all the way through the trailer. At least that's assuming that your tow vehicle will let you look through the trailer with your inside rear view mirror.

cheers,
steve :)

54breadloaf 09-04-2012 09:58 AM

Floor paint...
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Sparky57 (Post 1159935)
Framed in the door step with some metal and put a new lid on the step in prep for the rest of the floor...which is now installed as of Sunday night. Poured myself a large whiskey sour and went to bed. Pics later.
I read someones comment a long time ago that said simply 'the floor is epic'. So so true.
My floor approach worked well overall- I used bolts, washers and nylok nuts around the perimeter in the c-channel, then used those massive self-taping trailer deck bolts from VTS for the middle. Underlayed the floor with a nice thick bead of DAP Dynaflex 230, screwed and glued the 2 sheets of flooring together with PL400 and lots of screws. It isn't as stiff as I would want, it has screw holes through the top side which is a draw back, but overall it is in, it was relatively easy to slide under the c-channel, it fits and I can move on to the next item.

Next I will paint the floor with a top coat of something- probably latex porch and floor paint. It is expoxy now, but want something that looks nice when someone opens a door or hatch area and sees the floor...Any comments?

If you haven't painted the floor yet, why not just use your final floor product (vinyl) over the whole floor so everything is consistent? I'm not sure if you need the extra protection with the paint or not but maybe you could just touch up the areas that need the water protection and then cover the floor with whatever you decide. Everything is looking so good. I am painting the tank mounting system today for my flying cloud and will post photos soon. I am also using the see level monitoring system but haven't received it yet. I'd be interested in seeing photos of that too. I like how you closed in the step area. Looks really clean. Best of luck to you.

JT

Sparky57 09-04-2012 11:13 PM

@JT- I just bought the paint yesterday, it was on sale for $30 so i thought what the heck. I plan on flooring with a non-sheet vinyl product...probably laminate or bamboo, so I want to lay it around the cabinets...So when I open the cabinets I will see though to the floor, which would be wood. I tested the paint-- not sticking to the epoxy...argh!

Be interested to see your tank mount system....I forgot to paint mine before I put it on, so then I had to mask it off and spray it after....

I closed in the stairs with galvanized sheet metal, made 2 little side pieces and a top, the riveted them in place. Was really easy to do because I got my father in law to do it for me :) .

I don't have pics of the See Level system, but I ran a separate wire for each sensor back to the panel, not sure if that is what you planned. Ran them all under the frame then popped them through the floor.

@Steve-- Good point on the no-see-through window...Never thought of that. I do have a back-up camera, but not for while driving...

Sparky57 09-06-2012 11:01 PM

2 Polishers arrived from Harbor Freight today, as well as a big kit of polishing supplies from Jestco. This should be fun. I used my little PrincessAuto aluminum polishing kit to buff a few areas already and that went well...
Installed the porch light tonite. Cleaned up the old socket and put it back in (hope it works!) then replaced the screws with #8 SS and lots of Trempro.
Also still fiddling with the door -- turns out the old latch is higher (or the door is lower?) since I reassembled everything--- lower by 1/4 of an inch! Had to remove the strike plate and drill out the bolt hole , then redrill screw holes for the strike plate and put it back together. Now the door shuts firm. Also had to shim one of the hinges to remove a tiny little rub when the door was closing...now one more polish and I can rebuild the threshold.

Anyone find the floor around the door sags?Mine does...thinking of building a big kick-ass threshold to screw the floor into to hold it flat and steady....

Mark

pbearsailor 09-07-2012 12:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sparky57 (Post 1199782)

Anyone find the floor around the door sags?Mine does...thinking of building a big kick-ass threshold to screw the floor into to hold it flat and steady....

Mine just got better and better as I added more structure to the trailer as a whole, Mark. Getting the inside skins back on makes a big difference. I used a piece of aluminum angle for the threshold and also welded a piece of steel angle under the floor a few inches inside. That piece and particularly the elevator bolts in it seemed to add a lot of strength to the floor.

Before you give up on your paint for the floor, is it possibly an amine blush problem? When epoxy cures it has like a waxy layer on top and if you use a rough Scotchbrite pad, like the brown ones, and rough it up real well, the paint may still stick. If memory serves, the amine blush is water soluble as well so scrubbing it wet probably helps too.

cheers,
steve :)

54breadloaf 09-07-2012 12:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sparky57
@JT- I just bought the paint yesterday, it was on sale for $30 so i thought what the heck. I plan on flooring with a non-sheet vinyl product...probably laminate or bamboo, so I want to lay it around the cabinets...So when I open the cabinets I will see though to the floor, which would be wood. I tested the paint-- not sticking to the epoxy...argh!

Be interested to see your tank mount system....I forgot to paint mine before I put it on, so then I had to mask it off and spray it after....

I closed in the stairs with galvanized sheet metal, made 2 little side pieces and a top, the riveted them in place. Was really easy to do because I got my father in law to do it for me :) .

I don't have pics of the See Level system, but I ran a separate wire for each sensor back to the panel, not sure if that is what you planned. Ran them all under the frame then popped them through the floor.

@Steve-- Good point on the no-see-through window...Never thought of that. I do have a back-up camera, but not for while driving...

Hey Mark,

Just got the see level monitor yesterday so that's what I'll be doing today in addition to finishing the tank rack install. I will probably run the wires to the curb side as I will want all of my monitoring devices inside the wardrobe closet. Out of sight but easily accessible. I'll post some photos of the tanks later. Have a productive day.

JT

54breadloaf 09-07-2012 07:16 PM

4 Attachment(s)
Got my SeeLevel tank monitoring system in and mounted, (well the sensors and the tanks anyway) today. Sensors are supposed to be 1 1/2 " away from metal. I put some recommended rubber ( old bicycle tube ) where I needed to so that I would get more accurate readings and the metal rack won't interfere with the signal. I know I'll get some flack from someone that a couple of he threaded rods aren't perfectly vertical but I guess if you want a job done right, ya gotta do it yourself. Next time...

Attachment 167638

Street side exit ports.

Attachment 167639

Rear brackets. The bottom two nuts will allow me to tighten the tanks snug up to the floor after I get it bolted down.

Attachment 167640

Here you can see the SeeLevel sensor with the wires. Rubber between sensor and rack.

Attachment 167641

I also started on the floor replacement. Still need to do some trimming and it's not a 22" radius as mentioned earlier somewhere. At least not on the PO floor. It begins to curve slightly at each beam of the hitch tongue. I'll just cut it oversized and use the shell as my template. Wish me luck. The previous floor didn't fit perfectly so what have I got to lose, right? I'll let you know how it works out.
Anybody got any ideas on how to drill the holes in my floor to match up with the existing ones in my frame?

Sparky57 09-07-2012 10:24 PM

Nice pictures. They guy i bought my gauges off told me to top coat them to protect them from the weather, he recommended a rubberized paint. Might be worth contacting the vendor and seeing what they say...I wanted to protect them from road hazards and stuff.
As for the floor bolts- I used the VTS self taping screws everywhere, used grade 8 bolts and washers in the C channel areas. Never worried about re-using the old bolt holes because half of the them were cut off flush and twisted, etc..
How are you going to do your belly pan banana wraps? Did you keep the old ones?

54breadloaf 09-08-2012 09:10 AM

Yeah, the manufacturer recommends a 3M product. A rubberized product to protect from rocks and moisture. Guess I should test the system first before covering it so that if there are any problems, I can return it.

54breadloaf 09-08-2012 09:24 AM

Sparky, I have agonized over the banana wraps and just file that thought away figuring I will tackle that problem when I have to. I do have the old front one and that should help. I think I might use the old rear floor panel and build a wooden mock-up of the steel frame work so that I can form the banana wrap upside down. I haven't seen that method before but it seem like it would be much easier than working under the trailer. Do you know if the belly skins are screwed into the frame from underneath? With the flexing that takes place, maybe it would tear at the attachment points.

Sparky57 09-09-2012 08:14 PM

I just put my first corner in today! Made a paper card template and used clecos to hold it in place while i folded and shaped it...Took about 3 tries till I had one I liked, then cut the metal and slid it between the c Channel and body and it fit! Too tired to rivet it place today. I used 6061 t6 .032 metal. It is very stiff, much stiffer than the old BP material, but it did bend ok, and has some memory so should stay in place....I hope!

54breadloaf 09-09-2012 09:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sparky57
I just put my first corner in today! Made a paper card template and used clecos to hold it in place while i folded and shaped it...Took about 3 tries till I had one I liked, then cut the metal and slid it between the c Channel and body and it fit! Too tired to rivet it place today. I used 6061 t6 .032 metal. It is very stiff, much stiffer than the old BP material, but it did bend ok, and has some memory so should stay in place....I hope!

Please send photos! That's on my to do short list so I'm really interested in your process. Thanks, JT

Sparky57 09-09-2012 10:06 PM

This weeks work...
 
7 Attachment(s)
Here are some pics..

Got the door finished- pretty much, a little more polish later on but good for now
Got a new luggage door built, insulated, painted and installed with a new lock
Sanded, washed primed and painted the floor with low VOC porch paint from Behr (love their paints) - Thanks for the tip Steve on the 'amine blush'...paint is sticking now!
belly pan banana wrap #1 in place, just needs to be riveted in place...
stripped the paint off the old screen door locks, primed and painted them too
the banana wrap template....not glorious to look at, but it did the trick

Mark

54breadloaf 09-10-2012 10:35 AM

Wow! Looks great Mark! Thanks for posting those. The banana wraps don't seem so intimidating now. I'll be interested in seeing how you deal with the area around the tanks. Mine is similar. The floor really turned out nice.

Cheers! JT

KCN 09-16-2012 07:59 AM

[QUOTE=Sparky57;1193199]

Next the belly pan....6061 T6 ,032. I thought it would be easier to bend, have more memory...it is hard to work, and the banana wraps are being a real bugger. I don't have templates and I don't have a clue how to rebuild them. Any tips? Anyone with a template, preferably for a 57 Overlander? I will just build the 4 corners, then put the remainder on around the wraps....but what a crazy corner to try to fabricate...Where to you start? The front? And then work around the side? Yikes....


I'm way behind you, doing a '62, but I have my banana wraps all off and piled in a corner waiting to be used as templates...if you wanna see pix of those? Not sure how much diff is between a 57 and 62..

KC

54breadloaf 09-16-2012 12:48 PM

KC, I need to do the belly pans too. My plan is to use my old floor end panels and turn them upside down. I will then build a mock trailer framework on the plywood. Then use it to lay the belly skin on. It should be easier to do standing upright and forming them than to do it laying on my back. Not sure if anyone has done this before but I'll give it a try and post the results.
JT

Sparky57 09-16-2012 10:57 PM

@KC, I think I am doing ok with the template approach, using a thick card stock to make a paper banana wrap, then cutting a duplicate out it metal....only trick is getting material that behaves like stiff aluminum... Wrap 1 is Cleco ' d n place, number 2 will go n tomorrow....

Mocked up the interior today using string lines, tape and placing the appliances...I will post some pics. Going with 2 singles and 2 bunks over...finally feels like I am getting out of the messy stuff.

Also carefully installed my first of 3 hepvo vents. This one was for the grey water tank....the shower drain goes though the floor, into the hepvo, then into the side/bottom of the grey tank. Was nerve racking to do...I cleaned sanded prepped, primed and glued the heck out of that joint! Tested out perfect...hepvo works great, filled the tank right to the top without any problems.

Also ordered the new Precision Temp tankless system today (the 550)....no sidewall vent required, just need to figure out where to put it....near the kitchen, or under the bathroom sink....

Sparky57 09-20-2012 09:43 PM

inching forward...
 
Took the center vent completely out tonite in prep for installing the AC unit- a Dometic Penguin Low Profile 13500 BTU unit. The ribs barely support the vent that was there so I'll have to call on the father in law to build some sort of crazy bracing...Not sure what that'll look like, but the unit weighs 100lbs, so it better be heavy duty.

Also bought 10/3 wire for the 30a intellipower converter and will be cutting the hole for the Marinco 30a plug. Also bought the cable outlet from them too, so be putting that in place too. Plan to run the wire through the frame to the front dinette area.

Also, thinking of ordering an inverter from costco.ca...is 1500w enough? There is a 2000w model too..Just want to run an electric griddle, toaster, coffee maker or kettle....(not all at once, or course!)

Got the other banana wrap cut and placed too- looks better than the other side. Funny with these things, you learn as you go and by the time you are done your an expert, but you'll probably never do it again. Thinking about redoing the first one...if there's metal left over I think I will....

Question: anyone who has done the 12v wiring tell me if you bought 2 wire 12v wire, or did you buy 2 single strands. I can find lots of people selling single strands of low voltage wire but I was expecting to buy a pair....

Also, anyone looking for a 1957 Hehr vent and frame in perfect condition? Open to offers or trades?

Minno 09-20-2012 10:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sparky57 (Post 1205583)
Question: anyone who has done the 12v wiring tell me if you bought 2 wire 12v wire, or did you buy 2 single strands. I can find lots of people selling single strands of low voltage wire but I was expecting to buy a pair....

How much do you want to spend on wire? Here's one source for duplex wire: 2 Conductor Marine Cable - 100ft Spool | W-MC2

You could also use electric brake wire, as it's typically 2 conductors, one blue and one white.

Regular single conductor is typically used and fairly inexpensive. I used multiple colors of single strand wire, one color for each 12 volt circuit. Used white for the ground/return.

Chris

pbearsailor 09-20-2012 11:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sparky57 (Post 1205583)
Also, thinking of ordering an inverter from costco.ca...is 1500w enough? There is a 2000w model too..Just want to run an electric griddle, toaster, coffee maker or kettle....(not all at once, or course!)

I've got a 1000 watt inverter and it's fine for what I use it for, mostly charging or running computers. The items on your list are all very high current draw that'll put a big hit on your batteries (can't remember what you're planning there). Never been happy trying to run stuff that uses much power through an inverter and think it works better to use propane whenever you can.

Congrats on the belly pan corners. I got worse as it went along with the first one being the best. :blink:

cheers,
steve :)

Sparky57 09-20-2012 11:12 PM

I am planning on a pair of 6v golf cart batteries, wired in parallel to make 12 v (or is it series?)...should provide 220 AH of fun, minus battery inefficiency, minus inverter inefficiency....I should be able to toast one piece of toast :)....I think I'll go with 1500W and save myself the $70 extra for the 2000W.

As for the wire, I think I will just pair up some nice single strands of 10g wire...stop hunting for a pair of wires.

Thanks again

nmbosa 09-22-2012 09:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sparky57 (Post 1205623)

As for the wire, I think I will just pair up some nice single strands of 10g wire...stop hunting for a pair of wires.

Thanks again

That's what I did. It's worth looking around on prices. I think I dropped over $400 on all my wiring supplies. All these goodies add up quick.

Sounds like you are making good progress.

Norm

65CV 09-22-2012 08:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sparky57 (Post 1205623)
I am planning on a pair of 6v golf cart batteries, wired in parallel to make 12 v (or is it series?)...should provide 220 AH of fun, minus battery inefficiency, minus inverter inefficiency....I should be able to toast one piece of toast :)....I think I'll go with 1500W and save myself the $70 extra for the 2000W.

As for the wire, I think I will just pair up some nice single strands of 10g wire...stop hunting for a pair of wires.

Thanks again

Sparky -

Are you going with wire no smaller than 6 gauge for connecting the two 6v batteries to each other (in series) and for connecting your charger? Depending on the charger you select -- typically 45 or 60 amps, those circuits can see full amperage for a while when your batteries begin their charge.

On our last trailer, we used the 6V golf cart batteries and they worked beautifully. We're doing the same on the new-to-us Overlander. We placed the batteries just behind the wheel wells, one on each side. That's one reason for the larger wire size. I'm going with 4 gauge this time for those runs. Got the wire locally for a buck a foot -- in green and black.

I sized wire runs based on a very good article on West Marine.com for voltage loss for different currents for 12v wiring. The article isn't there anymore, but I kept the wire sizing table in Excel. PM me if you want a copy. (tried to paste it here, but it doesn't look right).

Lookin' good!

John

Sparky57 09-22-2012 11:13 PM

I haven' sized the wire yet, but would love to read the article. Just started drawing up a wiring plan tonite and am starting to figure out that there a whole buncha things that "I didnt' know that I didn't know", that's what I love about these projects- the details, the research....almost everything is a puzzle.
Things I don't know are how many DC amps I can put per circuit,
how to break up the DC circuits- appliances on one, lights on another, or forward and aft, or just by proximity?
Also, what do you use to switch 12v lights? Little switches or big?

Thanks for the encouragement -- definitely getting to the point of feeling like there are a million jobs to do all at once right now, and not really knowing exactly which to do first and in what order....

Mark

54breadloaf 09-22-2012 11:55 PM

I'm watching all of this dialog closely as I know I don't know a lot about the things I should know about wiring and electricity. I'll be doing mine in the next few months.

Sparky57 10-01-2012 09:39 PM

Plumbing, electrical & lotsa head scratching
 
6 Attachment(s)
A few pictures of what I am up to as I work on the electrical, plumbing and layout all at the same time.
Got the plumbing inlet put in place as well as the power and cable inlets. Ordered some attwood 5/8" low profile vents for the fresh water tank vents as well as 2 vents for the planned battery box (yet to be built) Planning a aluminum battery box with 2 vents, venting out the front of the trailer....

Placing the power converter curbside ahead of the door, batteries next to that and the inverter next to that. Tape on the floor is dinette and bed layouts...

Rebuilt the original stove fan- took it all apart and rewired it, cleaned it up and it works awesome....it is 110v but I am ok with that.

Trying to find a way to have the inverter feed the converter when I don't have shore power....that way the trailer works the same way unplugged as plugged but just off the batteries. Found a 30a double pole toggle switch on line that should allow me to wire the inverter into one side and shore power into the other side so I can choose my power source....

Belly pan is going slow....I have a serious shortage of helpers these days and it is a 2 person job. The next pan is there ready to go in when I grow another set (of hands).

Apart from that I am waiting on parts, helpers, and endlessly searching for small odd shaped fittings, whats-its and thingy's.

Any comments on running the pex pipe inside the shell? A couple spots I have to do it, other areas I could avoid it...

54breadloaf 10-01-2012 10:07 PM

That's what I like to see Mark, jumping in with both feet. You are a madman! Wish I were closer, I'd come give you a hand with the belly skins... Then you could help me with mine. Lol good luck and keep us posted. JT

pbearsailor 10-02-2012 01:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sparky57 (Post 1210192)
Trying to find a way to have the inverter feed the converter when I don't have shore power....that way the trailer works the same way unplugged as plugged but just off the batteries. Found a 30a double pole toggle switch on line that should allow me to wire the inverter into one side and shore power into the other side so I can choose my power source....

Maybe I'm confused here, but it seems like over complication. You can't take power out of the batteries to run the inverter to make 110 power to charge the batteries with the converter. You want to use battery power to run things when you aren't plugged into shore power and the batteries can power the inverter to make limited 110 volt power. If you want to wire outlets to run 110 volt stuff either by shore power or inverter, that could probably be done by switching. The converter, though, just isn't part of the equation unless you have shore power.

On your PEX runs, I'd just try to keep everything as accessible as possible should you have to make repairs in the future. Hopefully you'll never have to, but. . . .

Making great progress, Mark, and the quality of your work looks really great. Won't be long before you're rolling down the road. :wally:

cheers,
steve :)

Sparky57 10-02-2012 08:20 PM

As for the switching, yes, I think you are right Steve! I will have to just wire some appropriate plugs on to just one circuit and then run that one circuit through the toggle switch- that is much more simple (and actually do-able :) )

Mark

Sparky57 10-10-2012 10:27 PM

12v, etc
 
More work on the wiring this week- I ordered some special little plugs that arrived today- they atre 110v plugs that have a USB charger built into them- Plan on installing these plugs into a little charger station I plan on building next to the door, in the counter that is over the fridge area. Also got my 1500w inverter too from costco.ca 'powerbright'....

Also planning on finalizing the plumbing lines....I have seen a couple people plumb in a line to allow the fresh water tank to be filled (if the valve is open) when the trailer is connected to pressurized water....seems smart to me and I should be able to just put a valve under the sink and then connect the other end to the inlet side of the pump...

Seems like rain is going to return to the west coast so maybe time to get the AC unit installed too....so I am going to have to figure out how to build a brace to hold the unit up....

Also ordered the stainless steel fridge vent from airstream.com ( a little pricey...) and some new battery vents from discount marine for my battery box and the fresh water line filler vent..

Attwood Flush Fuel Vents - Fuel Tank Vents by Discount Marine Supplies



FastMac ACE-7702 U-Socket Decorator Duplex Dual Outlet Dual USB,110V,15AMP TruePower,White - Amazon.com

nmbosa 10-10-2012 10:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sparky57 (Post 1213864)

Seems like rain is going to return to the west coast

Sure does. It was like someone flipped a light switch down here today and suddenly fall arrived. Grey skys and much cooler weather. Time to batten down the hatches.

Norm

54breadloaf 10-11-2012 09:55 AM

Sparky,

Looks like you are in double time mode on your trailer. Pretty exciting to be working on things that are clean and will make your camping experience more enjoyable, I bet. Show some photos when you can. My mouth is a bit dry so the drool might help.:-)... Keep up the good work. And you're right, fall just fell this morning. JT

zonacpa 10-11-2012 10:32 AM

Sparky, Are you going to install a fresh water tank fill also or will you just have the city water hookup? I apologize if I missed it earlier in your thread.

Sparky57 10-11-2012 05:47 PM

I will post some pics of the filler, but I think there is one earlier on in the thread.....the fresh tank is under the floor, near the steps and the filler is where the original filler hole was- front curb side. I ran a long filler pipe back to the tank, through the floor. I can't imagine when I'd use it, but it is there , mostly because I had the filler thingy and a hole in the tank and the trailer...and the pipe was only $20 to connect them together.

KCN 10-12-2012 09:10 AM

2 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Sparky57 (Post 1214202)
I will post some pics of the filler, but I think there is one earlier on in the thread.....the fresh tank is under the floor, near the steps and the filler is where the original filler hole was- front curb side. I ran a long filler pipe back to the tank, through the floor. I can't imagine when I'd use it, but it is there , mostly because I had the filler thingy and a hole in the tank and the trailer...and the pipe was only $20 to connect them together.


Mark -

I'm thinking about doing this as well for my fresh fill - debating what tank to use and then re-read your whole thread and saw that your in-law made you a custom...lucky! If you took pics of the fill pipe I'd like to see them as well as that tank.

I appear to have the same frame you do - you are the only one I've seen with as much steel - which I am now re-configuring for the tanks (and looking at JT's system as well) so my welder can see what to do. Can both of you share what tanks you used - I'm looking at some Inca tanks? Pics are of my chassis after I had it blasted. I had the rear three cross members replaced at the existing centers..a mistake. Worse, I then painted the mistake - now I have to go cut it up again. :( Need an icon on here that shows me throwing money down a drain...

Kathy

Sparky57 10-12-2012 09:29 AM

Wow! Nice job on the frame. That is very similar to mine, except I don't have any holes in my cross members.

As for tanks- I actually ended up buying a poly tank because I wanted to use the See-Level tank monitors...which won't work with aluminum tanks. I bought the poly tank at a local marine shop and the black and grey tanks at icondirect.com.

I'll take a pic of the pipe fill, but the actual external mount filler is the original one, and the pipe connecting them is just a potable water hose that I snaked along the outside edge of the trailer to a point where it goes under the floor and into the tank- right where my pump sits..
pics later.....

The rain has finally arrived on the West Coast....good for the salmon waiting at the dry river mouths!

Sparky57 10-19-2012 06:24 PM

Plumbing and wiring still...
 
5 Attachment(s)
Plumbing:
Spent the afternoon roughing in more plumbing and installing my new Precision Temp 550 NSP tankless HW tank! It is a new product from them, a bit cheaper than the marine version and a little easier to install...Just got it week before last and have been fiddling with placement and exact location. Finally settled on SS, between bath and kitchen. Hole is cut and lines are plumbed in, so it is done!
Also got all the pump parts installed with backflow preventers and a pressure fill line to the fresh water tank with a valve to turn in on and off under the sink, as well as gravity filler line (black)..now I just have to fit in a anti-freeze pump valve somewhere (once I find one- seems they are all out of stock locally).
Next steps are to crimp all the pex lines and glue up the ABS, then I can start to put the valves on and giver a test.

Question: Do I need those drain lines some people install if I have an antifreeze pump line instead?

Electrics:
Picture shows the batteries, the converter, the inverter and pretty much right where they are going to live.
Also started pulling all the 12v electrical lines...which led me to ordering more parts- Propane / CO2 sensor and lights. Seriously re-thinking solar...cost v benefit seems low...but there is no real chance to retrofit it later, so ....

Also need to source or building a battery box... Ordered 3 tidy little marine vents for the battery box fresh air intake and hydrogen output...as well as one vent for a the fresh water vent line...The one picture shows the fresh air battery vent that is fit into the hole where the original electrical line was. It fit exactly...nice when something goes right for a change! Think I'll put the hydrogen vent a couple inches above it.

Also thinking about a pair of the VTS Fantastic Fans ..one with a thermo and rain sensore one with nothing. They are out of stock though right now so I am waiting for them to come in -- Question: do I buy the curved roof of flat roof kind?

Thinking I'll be done plumbing and wiring rough in this month, and hope to have the belly pan done too....so then it is on to cabinets...

Mark

reinergirl 10-19-2012 07:36 PM

Wow, you are accomplishing a lot!:D

Here's a link to some battery boxes

Battery Boxes

And you should order the curved garnish, you may find it needs to be trimmed on the curved section for a custom fit.

marzboy 10-20-2012 10:05 AM

I went with two fantastic vents both with the rain sensor and curved roof bezel. Have my rough wireing in the fans work great!

65CV 10-20-2012 11:09 AM

Mark,

Good work, as usual.

I'm going with 2 Fantastic Fans with the rain sensor too. After all this work, I don't want anything messing up the interior!

The only drain I'd consider is for the tankless water heater. If you're caught camping in a cold spell and don't want to winterize, it sounds like the only vulnerable point to freezing. From experience, I've found the marine pink antifreeze far easier to rinse than the WalMart stuff. Took forever to get that junk out of our system.

I had trouble copying the link to West Marine's Battery Boxes. For a change, they aren't too expensive. Look under Home > Electrical > Batteries & Accessories > Battery Accessories at westmarine.com.

John

pbearsailor 10-20-2012 12:38 PM

On the Straight or Curved Fantastic Vent Trim
 
I went with the curved vent trim on mine, Mark, and it was a mistake. Easy enough to trim it to fit, but I think you'll find at least on our year of trailer that the straight trim will fit better. Our shells are pretty flat on that top section.

cheers,
steve :)

BradS 10-20-2012 05:51 PM

Wow Mark. I have scanned your thread and am amazed at all you have done in such a short time. I too have a 57 Overlander that I am working on. Its more of a weekend winter project. Im just starting to go back out to the trailer and work on it. Its been to long. Your way ahead of me. Keep it up it looks great

Sparky57 10-21-2012 11:23 AM

Thanks Brad! I sold my tent trailer and booked camping with a couple families next July so I have a deadline and 3 kids that want a trailer so thats enough to motivate me.
I probably approach it the same way you do: break the huge jobs into 25 small jobs and do them one at a time. Checked out your thread....looks like your starting point was a little further from the finish than mine so I'll cut you some slack :)

Sparky57 10-22-2012 07:51 PM

One more piece of belly pan installed tonight, and a bit more of the wiring completed as well as 2 backing plates installed behind the water filler and the hose inlet to make them a little more solid feeling. Also got the shower drain set into place. Got he father in law working on a battery box out of checker plate aluminum?
The west coast of Canada is getting soaked with rain storm after rainstorm this month and I have only found one leak so far, so that is satisfying.

Sparky57 11-19-2012 08:11 PM

Wiring
 
1 Attachment(s)
Installed the AC unit this weekend....Father in law cut the whole a bit bigger and made up some braces to support its weight, then my bro and I slid it up a ladder / ramp we made (using a pickup truck bed as the starting point) and it actually fit. Wired it all up and we are good to go.

Also lit all the wiring up this weekend too....Installed the converter, all the breakers and terminated all the wires into boxes. Installed the batteries into a new custom made battery box, cut in 2 vents and ran tubing from the box out to the outside using those little chrome vents. Also hooked up my inverter and ran it through the custom made switch that lets me power all the wall sockets through either the inverter or the converter....So shore power or not, I'll be able to plug in my toaster.
A few more steps to go- need to install a fuse between the inverter and batteries...and need to run wires into all the AC outlets, etc...

Overall the wiring went smoothly so far...just one weird problem...I have a Furrion chrome marine outlet, and a Furrion trailer plug. When I wired them using the color coded wiring diagram the neutral and ground wires in my converter were always hot, and black was not...tripping the breaker did nothing....but everything still worked. Turns out, the wiring diagrams are different for marine and trailer! How stupid is that! Took me 2 hours with a multi-meter to trace the wires, then I googled around and discovered my cord is wired NEMA 5-30 and my outlet is wired NEMA L-5-30....which is very different. I basically put the black wire in the green, green in the white and white into the black slots and it all works fine now. Uploaded a diagram as I am sure it will help someone else some day....I can't be the only one who thinks Furrion cords and Furrion plugs should naturally work together.

Oh, AC is kicking cold air too....One more step to a waterproof trailer now that I don't have a massive hole in my roof any more. Order Fatastic Fans from VTS- finally back in stock....so once those come and I install them then I think the next step is to put the skins back up.

Plumbing is all crimped too, so it feels like progress....

Sparky57 11-25-2012 10:40 PM

updates
 
Rolled the belly pan today - using 032 6061 T6 and it is stiff and has very little memory. I am planning on doing the perimeter of the belly pan- all the way around and bring the inner edge in far enough to fit 1 4' wide sheet down the middle. I took a couple sheets to the local metal shop and cut 28" pieces and then put one edge through the rollers to make a nice gentle arc on it.
Got all 6 pieces placed in place this weekend.

Pics show the one quick pic of one piece of belly pan- electrical tape is just a left over from having it wrapped up for transport.
Other pic shows the new fridge vent- Stainless one from airstream.com. It is worth the $$, super nice
Also, quick pic of the AC unit....It is leaking so I need to get a better frame around it so I can bolt it down tighter.

Sparky57 11-25-2012 10:58 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Oops- pics didn't attach. Here they are ...

Sparky57 01-09-2013 07:12 PM

Belly Pan- Check!
 
4 Attachment(s)
Ok, the belly pan is in! What a horrid job. Seriously- the belly pan is the main reason I would argue for a shell-off restoration. With the shell on the belly pan is one hell of an ugly job. And my beast is sitting on dirt, and it was cold and wet to boot. I planned 20 hours to do it all...I think I was probably closer to 60 all in.

Here is how I did it:

T6061 .032 Aluminum from Aircraftspruce.ca. Cost was a little over $600 to my door. I got 4 sheets, 4 x 12 each, all the same gauge.

I templated the 4 corners using card and then my father in law cut and bent them up, then we installed them first and trimmed them back till they fit just right and cleco'd in place.

Then I cut and rolled the perimeter pieces and installed them, shaped them to go around the tanks and wheel wells and cleco'd in place. Then I bent up the end piece between the bumper and slipped that into place.

Then I riveted the belt-line rivets in place--with the help of my brother and 11 year old daughter holding the bucking bar and piece by piece I riveted the bottom to the frame with Trempro in the joints. I spaced the rivets 6" apart and used the big flange ones from VTS. 300 rivets and 2 dead rivet guns later I was done that part!

Also insulated then lined the spare tire cut out with metal, also bent up some little flanges pieces to cover off the exposed frame (those bits will go in this weekend.

Once those bits were in installed new levels on the frame and reinstalled all the plumbing and all the other bits that fell off along the way.


What I would do differently:
I would not use 6061 t6 .032. It is very stiff, very hard to work with and has almost no memory so it is very hard to work on the corners. A softer metal or a thinner gauge-or both.

I would use less rivets- I think I may have overdone it.

I wouldn't do it with the shell on! In all aspects I advocate for shell-on restoration...in this case having the shell off would have been infinitely easier. With all the tanks hanging down and all the little lines and wires coming and going, and the plumbing, and framing members I spent sooo much time snipping, trimming, shaping, refitting, reshaping, clamping and measuring.

I would buy more metal- I barely had enough. I have one strip 4" x 24" left over!

Last job is to install a couple vents and then frame the tanks with aluminum cladding. I will use some other kind of aluminum for that, no 6061 left to do that.

Pics show the front tire area, rear area around the tanks, and the new jacks, etc.

65CV 01-09-2013 07:24 PM

Sparky,

I remember our first attempt at a bellypan corner. My son and I spent 14 man hours the first day and ended up producing nothing but frustration. We used soft aluminum, not the tougher 6061 you used.

That is a very impressive job you've done. So glad that the task is over for you and that it looks so good. Working on cold ground is miserable, isn't it?

Congrats!

John

Sparky57 01-09-2013 07:27 PM

Solar Panels- Check!
 
Also installed Solar panels:

2 65W Solar panels (130W total) mounted mid-line on the trailer. Used some through-hull marine fittings to bring the wires through the outer skin inside.

I bought lower power solar panels than I had dreamed of, but added an MPPT controller so I can get max power out of the panels I have. I got a 10a MPPT Solar Controller and a remote monitoring unit that shows the battery charge state, the power going into the panels and power coming out.
I really like it so far.
Post some pics later of the finished install.

Minno 01-09-2013 07:52 PM

Aaah, yes. The bellypan. I remember it not so fondly. I definitely agree that re-doing the bellypan would be infinitely better with a shell-off. We also did a shell-on. Took about 4 times longer that we thought (I actually think I understated that), and was not exactly easy. Don't plan on doing it again. Everytime he talks about taking a section off to do something I try to talk him out of it! Now that it's done though, it looks nice. So does yours!

Kay

Sparky57 01-09-2013 08:48 PM

Thanks John, thanks Kay!
And it is nice to hear that it is *actually* that hard, as hard as it felt. To top it off, I was working solo. I really enjoyed the first 10 hours...then it started to get harder and harder, and the rest felt like a frustrating chore with no end in sight. I think I may need a support group or medication to get over it.

Now it feels like I am on the the fun stuff once I put the inner skins back in. Finishing work and cabinet building! I have no idea how to do that either!

nmbosa 01-09-2013 11:54 PM

Beautiful work on the belly pan. That was unquestionably the most difficult part of our restoration - and we had the shell off. Yours looks great and the 6061 will probably hold up very well to years of road abuse, so you will get your money's worth out of all that hard work. Can't wait to see your next update.

Norm

Sparky57 01-10-2013 12:32 AM

Thanks Norm! I love your Overlander blog... I have 3 young daughters and am planning on bunks...any tips? I am wondering how wide is wide enough and how much height between mattress and roof is sufficient for kids. What do your bunks measure?

Mark

nmbosa 01-12-2013 10:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sparky57 (Post 1247311)
Thanks Norm! I love your Overlander blog... I have 3 young daughters and am planning on bunks...any tips? I am wondering how wide is wide enough and how much height between mattress and roof is sufficient for kids. What do your bunks measure?

Mark

Sent via pm, but in case anyone else is looking for this information -

The bunk is 75 1/4" x 28 1/8".

The height to the interior ceiling at the outer edge of the bunk is 23". At the center of the bunk (as the roof curves down) there is apprx. 19 1/2" of clearance. (these measurements are from the top of the 4" mattress).

The bottom of the bunk sits on cleats that are bolted to the bulkheads at either end of the bedroom area. The cleats are at 51 1/2" off the floor.

The bunk rails are constructed from 4 3/8" x 3/4" wood - auto correct wants to call it magma honey :) but you know it as a dark wood from African and South America.

I have to add that ironically our kids haven't slept in the bunks yet. Our youngest is still uncomfortable with the height and we never got around to buying the cushions for the dinette. So, our nightly routine is a little silly. We take the mattresses from the bunks and put them on the dinette to make a queen bed. One of us sleeps up front with our youngest daughter, our oldest gets one of the main beds and the parent who drew the long stick for the night gets the other main bed.

Hopefully we will get our dinette cushions this winter and at least our older daughter can start using the bunk.

I'd also recommend a ladder of some sort. The kids have trouble getting down on their own without one.

Norm

54breadloaf 01-12-2013 03:12 PM

Looks great Sparky! I have started on one corner but failed miserably. Then it came to me one night. Ill make a pattern out of heavy paper. ( should have just read your post :0)... ) anyway, like you I'm working solo so it's hard to get motivated. When I do, I'll post som photos. Thanks for the inspiration.

JT

zonacpa 01-12-2013 11:58 PM

1 Attachment(s)
I'm planning to do some bunks as well. I have twin boys. Here are some pictures I found on the web.

ddstech 01-13-2013 01:50 AM

2 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Sparky57 (Post 1247311)
Thanks Norm! I love your Overlander blog... I have 3 young daughters and am planning on bunks...any tips? I am wondering how wide is wide enough and how much height between mattress and roof is sufficient for kids. What do your bunks measure?

Mark

I have three little girls too. We came up with these bunks that slide out like gauchos. They are awesome!

Matt

pullswitha40 01-13-2013 12:51 PM

The belly pan looks great.....

I look forward to seeing photos of the solar panels.

Just how did you mount them?

Sparky57 01-13-2013 03:32 PM

Solar and Tank clean outs
 
4 Attachment(s)
Here are some solar panel pics and a few pics of the new Tornado flushers that are connected to the grey and black tanks. Ran the hoses through to the rear SS corner. That is one busy little corner of my trailer now - Bal jacks, flush valves, dump valves, power, cable, water inlets, and the HW tank fresh air intake and exhaust pipes

Solar are 2 65W panels mounted mid-line, with SeaDog thru hull wiring clamps and home made anodized aluminum mounting stands. Last pic is the MPPT controller and MT-5 Remote monitoring unit (they are just laying loose right now....)

M

Sparky57 01-13-2013 06:08 PM

Whoops
 
2 Attachment(s)
Forgot one pic of the solar controllers. The MPPT controller is on the left, the MT-5 Unit on the right, showing 18.5v flowing from the panels into the battery bank...

Added one pic of the tire holder too- painted up the rim a nice hammered aluminum grey just for fun. Still need to attach the aluminum skin to the underside (that is what is hanging down over the tire) Can't seem to find the right size washers in stainless to hold the metal in place.

@DDSTech- those bunks look nice. I like the slide out option, that is smart. Do you know what distance you get between mattress edge and roof? I don't think my girls will sleep together any more, they all want a bunk , and they all want their own bed....So I'll end up with 4 beds back there, total of 6 in the trailer with the queen dinette. What is across from your beds?

m

ddstech 01-13-2013 09:27 PM

@DDSTech- those bunks look nice. I like the slide out option, that is smart. Do you know what distance you get between mattress edge and roof? I don't think my girls will sleep together any more, they all want a bunk , and they all want their own bed....So I'll end up with 4 beds back there, total of 6 in the trailer with the queen dinette. What is across from your beds?

m[/QUOTE]

I'll have to grab you measurements next time I go out there. I can tell you my 10 yr old is pretty tall and fits comfortably on the top. My other two girls are short and have many years before they out grow it.

Across from the bunks is the kitchen. I'm going to be posting all the pictures soon. Just need to finish up some things first.

pullswitha40 01-14-2013 11:25 AM

Looks great.....

I only hope I do half as well on my Spartan......no that's not true ....I hope I do as good a job as you are doing.

Sparky57 01-15-2013 09:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pullswitha40 (Post 1248862)
Looks great.....

I only hope I do half as well on my Spartan......no that's not true ....I hope I do as good a job as you are doing.

Thanks! The secret is to break big jobs into lots of little jobs and do that one at a time. And only take pictures of the things that go well :brows:

M2HB 01-15-2013 11:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sparky57 (Post 1249182)
Thanks! The secret is to break big jobs into lots of little jobs and do that one at a time. And only take pictures of the things that go well :brows:

Taking pictures of just the items that go well sure makes it look easy.:D

Sparky57 01-30-2013 10:32 PM

Insulation and wiring finalized
 
4 Attachment(s)
Quick update;

Completed the insulation using EPS 3/4" foam over top of Prodex. I am really happy with it and despite the cold evenings I have been able to warm the trailer up quickly using a little space heater. The EPS foam is light, bends nicely to fit and thin enough that there is an air gap between the Prodex and the skin. It was easy to install and with the reflective barrier it holds together well.

Completed all the wiring and tested all the circuits. Ordered 12 LED recessed lights from China -- They are 110v but I was able to mod them to work as 12v (by just cutting off the step down transformer :)) They are nice, and seriously, $5 delivered to my door, tax and duty included. Ridiculous.

3W LED Ceiling Down Light Recessed Fixture Warm White Cabinet Lighting 110V 220V | eBay

Also prepped the inner skins for reinstall. Sanded with 120 grit and washed with TSP and rinsed. Some of the back sides were corroded so I had to clean up the corrosion with a scotch brite pad and then Alodine and Alumiprep, then rust paint. A couple of the skins were corroded right through so painted front and back.

Mocked up the bathroom cabinet and shower area too in cardboard- that is the next step, once the skins are back in.

Sparky57 01-31-2013 12:39 AM

insulation pics
 
2 Attachment(s)
Here is a pic of the insulation I am using. One pic is the backside, which is plastic. The other pic is it installed with the foil liner side facing outwards. I can't really find any drawbacks to using this stuff. Someone said it will soak water out of the air, but from what I read it doesn't do that. So far, I am happy with it...

Also got the gas lines installed. $200 in labour and $350 in copper and hoses, regulators, fittings and bushings.

My cheque book is empty!

M2HB 01-31-2013 02:23 PM

It sure is looking nice.

ErikFrolich 01-31-2013 02:44 PM

Are you installing a shower? Just wondering, I'm renovating a 57 Caravanner.

Sparky57 01-31-2013 08:35 PM

Yes- I am putting a shower in too. I am putting it in the rear, curb side corner. Haven't finalized the design yet but probably 28" by 46"...

tinman54 02-02-2013 08:29 AM

Nice change to get the insulation in there, it starts to feel like things are going in the right direction!
Looks Great!

Sparky57 02-02-2013 10:15 AM

A game of skins
 
Started putting the skins back in today. Seems very final and it makes me wonder if there is anything I forgot to do:blush:

Any advice on painting the inner skins? I sanded, washed with TSP, rinsed, and they look really clean now. I think the PO used to smoke in bed because there are brown patches around the old bunks.

My plan is : seal it with a good low VOC sealer- KILZ Max is what I am thinking, then top coat with no VOC latex, something with a bit of sheen to it.

Question: Should I prime and paint after install?
Other question: Some of the inner skins were installed with buck rivets- so I have no idea how the hell they did that, or really even why. Is that normal? It was the center panel that runs the length of the trailer. I am thinking just putting pop rivets back in, could use Olympics, but then I have to shave em down, etc...

Also had to take my new batteries back to Costco- 2 6v deep cycle golf cart batteries. They were draining down in a matter of hours. I was getting maybe 6 hours of 60w output from them. New replacement ones work much better, but now my PD 4045 converter has quit. It won't charge the batteries. Only puts out 11.7v when charging. Phoned Progressive and they are shipping me a new one no charge on Monday- so that is nice to see they care about their customers, even the Canadian ones :huh:



Mark

nmbosa 02-02-2013 11:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sparky57 (Post 1256307)
Other question: Some of the inner skins were installed with buck rivets- so I have no idea how the hell they did that, or really even why. Is that normal? It was the center panel that runs the length of the trailer. I am thinking just putting pop rivets back in, could use Olympics, but then I have to shave em down, etc...
Mark

Mark,

The center section with buck rivets was riveted together before installing in the trailer. I was able to take mine out and re-install it as one piece without disturbing the buck rivets.

Norm

Sparky57 02-02-2013 12:00 PM

Ok, hmmm...That wasn't possible for me. Did you take it out the front window or something? I think I'll pop rivet it...

Thanks Norm!

nmbosa 02-02-2013 12:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sparky57 (Post 1256369)
Ok, hmmm...That wasn't possible for me. Did you take it out the front window or something? I think I'll pop rivet it...

Thanks Norm!

We were able to move it in and out of the door by just letting it hang like a giant upside down taco and carefully manuvering it through the door. It was very tight, but Airstream either designed it to go in the door or buck riveted it together inside the shell.

Norm

Sparky57 02-24-2013 07:19 PM

How many rivets?
 
Ok- so the inner skins are all but back in and all the rivets, minus a couple are in place. Any guesses on how many 1/8 rivets I put back in? I have 30 still to install, only put them where needed to secure the inner panels. Any non-structural holes will be filled and sanded smooth. I will plate the empty light fixture holes and electrical boxes (unless there is a better solution out there???)
I also have a couple dents from who knows what....I am thinking bondo will fill these creases in nicely. Any comments on that?

My rivets when back into the exact hole they came out of a year ago, with only a few exceptions. That was a big surprise.

Also fired up my See-Level monitor today. It runs my pump, monitors my 3 tanks and my battery. All was good!

Next steps- fill, sand prime and paint. Then I am thinking of building from the back to the front. It is going to be more on the modern side, so if you aren't into that then you can unsubscribe now :)

rumrunner 02-24-2013 09:17 PM

I suspect you will be unhappy with the results if you fill and sand the extraneous small holes. Many will quickly pop out when the shell flexes going down the road. Much easier to just fill with a pop rivet and forget it! Once you paint nobody will ever know that they are not original. Also, dont be afraid to get a little original with the small patches- they can look really cool with a little imagination:cool:
tim

Minno 02-25-2013 07:14 PM

We primed with Bonds oil based primer, and then painted with exterior latex paint. Time will tell, but 2 year so far and happy with it. Key is to make sure your walls are very very clean and very well rinsed clean of the cleaner you used prior to priming. We painted after the walls were back in place. Hope this helps!

Kay

Sparky57 04-27-2013 05:19 PM

Ok, it has been a while since my last post.

Here is how I painted;

I have primed and painted all with Latex low Voc paints. 1 coat Kilz Max, and 3coats of Benjamin Moore no VOC paint. Washed first, then TSP, then sanded with 100 grit.
I filled a bunch of dents and holes before painting. Used Bondo Hair to fill the big holes, then top coat with Bondo top coat, sanded and it looked great, except the texture of the bondo was WAY too smooth compared to the zolotane paint. So then I put ceiling texturing spray over that, then primed that. What a mess. Looks good now, but was a lot of work.

I also replaced a patch of inner skin where the old centre light fixture was, so I textured that the same way and painted it too, and then I also filled a huge number of dents and creases around the door and the old beds, so the inner skin now looks just perfect, but took 5 times longer than I budgeted for.

Then it was on to cabinets!

Sparky57 04-27-2013 05:22 PM

Finishing the Electrical;

My LED recessed lights arrived from China and I installed them all, they look awesome! I have 8 lights in the kitchen 4 in the rear bed area. Also installed 2 reading lights for the eating area, both led. They look good too, pics to follow later tonite.

Also ordered some LED rope lights to go under my porch steps( outside) and over the kitchen overhead cabinet ( or maybe inside them) not sure yet.

I forgot to install a hot water heater cut out switch, so when I tested all the electrical I couldn't shut my HW tank off! My see level gauge has a switch built into it for that very purpose but I forgot to run the wire to the tank. Since I ran 2 wires to all appliances I was able to steal a ground wire from one of the tank sensors and repurpose it as a switch leg. apart from that,all the electrics work and so far I haven't drilled thru a wire.

Did the final install of all the inverter and converter connections. Had to disconnect everything, cut all wires to fit and reattach them. The dinette is over the inverter, converter, batteries and solar chargers. Hours and hours. Tested out fine though. Ready to do cabinets and final nestle of all appliances.

54breadloaf 04-27-2013 05:36 PM

I'd (we'd) like to see photos if you can stop working long enough to take a break, snap a few, admire your work over a beer or two and then post them. I've been polishing here and there. Mostly around the lower perimeter in preparation for the belly skins to be done by someone else. Sad but I decided to let a pro do that part. Expensive, yes but I want to put my efforts into something that is more visible and less laborious. Hope to see your soon. Ill post when I get more area polished.
JT (54 Breadloaf)

Sparky57 04-27-2013 05:54 PM

Cabinets;

I am building front to back. Dinette is first. Dinette is U shaped with one drawer, near the door,and lift up hatch space for the rest. No back rests for the sides, but I am building a back rest in the nose to use as storage, to hide some piping and to hide a power outlet. When it folds down it will make a 70 x 88 bed.

1/2 birch ply is what I am using for everything. I find it light, hard, strong and easy to work with. It takes paint well and looks good with just varathane too. Staples, glue and screws will hold it together, with edge tape to dress it off. So far, I am happy with it, though it is at times a bit twisty.

I repainted the floor under the cabinets and got the dinette boxes installed. Fastened them down with l brackets my father n law made for me out of anodized aluminum. Also riveted to the walls. I varathaned the interior and primed the exterior. Tops are yet to be varathaned, ran out of edge tape! The outside was primed with Zinser shellac primed. It dries super hard and seals up the wood really nice. Then I sanded it and will top coat with Benjamin Moore water based oil paint. Yes, water based oil!

Cutting and fitting the top covers was harder than I though I would be, but a belt sander proved the best tool to shape all the curves to fit the nose area. Pics to follow!

Sparky57 04-28-2013 12:04 AM

Pics...
 
7 Attachment(s)
Ok- here some quick snaps.

One of the electrical feeds. They all come into one 24x20 inch space under the dinette. All lines to the appliances are 10g stranded copper - hot and a ground to each and every device or appliance. All grounds run back to the ground bus, then to the battery

A shot of the dinette, the back rest and the backrest hatch

Another of the fridge. Above the fridge is a hidden drawer with 2 plugs and a cable outlet.

A shot of the recessed lights and the wall sconces.
A shot of the stove cabinet.

As is my way, I am moving forward on about 5 things at once so I never get bored!

More pics when daylight returns....

nmbosa 04-28-2013 09:56 AM

Nice work. Everything is looking great! One question - how are you venting the fridge. I'm assuming it is gas and electric, but I think it needs air flow over the coils even if running on only electric.

Norm

54breadloaf 04-28-2013 10:11 AM

Great work! Must feel good to finally see some fun things get finished.

Sparky57 04-28-2013 10:28 AM

The vent is next...I will be building one of those curvy wall outcroppings to vent the gas through to a new ceiling vent.

Mark

pbearsailor 04-28-2013 10:59 AM

Quality work there, Mark! Looks really nice. :wally:

-steve :)

Sparky57 06-18-2013 11:30 PM

more finishing work....
 
7 Attachment(s)
Here are some more photos of the latest:

Upholstery is in and done. Lets just say that it cost more than I expected, but it is all nicely done.

I have been doing endless amounts of painting, sanding, painting, sanding, varathaning, edge taping, filling, sanding and painting.

The bunks are in- made them out of 1 1/4 aluminum box tubing, welded into a frame with 3 cross members. Topped them with 1/4 birch then edged them with bamboo. Made little crash bars out of 3/8 aluminum 1" brackets

Things left to do are the bathroom shower, the fridge vent, the bathroom door, and so on.

Also took it to the weigh scale yesterday- as it sits with no floor in it it weighed in at 4000lbs. More than I hoped but around what I expected. Was hoping for 3800lbs....but given the factory weight was 3850, and I have solar and AC it is about right I guess.....

Ask if you want more pictures- I can post them.

I have a trip planned July 6th so it has to be done by then....just won't be polished unless a miracle happens.


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