Airstream Forums

Airstream Forums (http://www.airforums.com/forums/)
-   Flat-Front (Cutter, Clipper, XC, XL & Skydeck) Motorhomes (http://www.airforums.com/forums/f313/)
-   -   Clipper, Land Yacht, Headlights Flashing (http://www.airforums.com/forums/f313/clipper-land-yacht-headlights-flashing-78376.html)

masseyfarm 06-09-2011 09:50 PM

Clipper, Land Yacht, Headlights Flashing
 
Headlights flickering.
This info applies specifically to the CLIPPER, but may be applicable to other models depending on OEM equipment.
There has been some historical problem with a number of OEM applications where the headlight switch used is that of the Ford application from the 70-80-90's.(F4UZ11654A or E77B11654AA, or many other)
The CLIPPER is one of these, with the headlight switch # D3ZZ11654A.
What happens here is the current draw exceeds the capacity of the switch, resulting in the breaker overheating and cycling, resulting in flashing headlamps.
Any auto/truck/RV forum will have various solutions to this problem, as it is quite common.
Specifically on the CLIPPER on the Freightliner Chassis.
The main power source distribution is on the front bulkhead forward of the driver, (access from outside front panel). Below this is the wire bundle that exits the bulkhead from the control panel. If you expose this wire bundle, you will see 2 #12g white wires, one labeled Headlights High, and the other, Headlights LOW. These are the "power-on" wires from the headlight switch. Both will have a joint in them about 10" further along that go to left and right side of the unit. Cut these wires about 2" before the Y joint. Run these "switch on hot" wires to two new separate 30 amp relays that you have installed on the bulkhead. Include inline 20A circuit breakers in each line. Connect the relays to the corresponding low and high beam wires, run a ground, and hot to the main power source, and you have now solved the headlight problem for about $30.00.
As posted earlier, I also separated the running lamps to run off a similar 30A relay.
So now the headlight switch has very little load and all flickering problems have been solved.
As I have posted earlier, I also separated the fog lights from the high beam circuit, and now control them with a foot switch, through a 30A relay, with an indicator lamp on the lower dash to remind me they are on. (the switch on the side panel was not comfortable to use any time, but especially in heavy traffic). This circuit is hot only when the key is on, so no worry about leaving them on by mistake.
We are currently on the road, heading home for a "REST". I will try to post some pictures at a later date.
Dave

masseyfarm 06-10-2011 08:00 AM

Fuses
 
Clarification on the new 20A circuit breaker locations.
The headlight switch is already protected with the OEM installation.
The new 20A circuit breakers are to be installed in the CHASSIS HOT TO RELAY line.

Quote:

Originally Posted by masseyfarm (Post 1003514)
Headlights flickering.
Run these "switch on hot" wires to two new separate 30 amp relays that you have installed on the bulkhead. Include inline 20A circuit breakers in each line. Connect the relays to the corresponding low and high beam wires, run a ground, and hot to the main power source, and you have now solved the headlight problem for about $30.00.
As posted earlier, I also separated the running lamps to run off a similar 30A relay.
So now the headlight switch has very little load and all flickering problems have been solved.
As I have posted earlier, I also separated the fog lights from the high beam circuit, and now control them with a foot switch, through a 30A relay, with an indicator lamp on the lower dash to remind me they are on. (the switch on the side panel was not comfortable to use any time, but especially in heavy traffic). This circuit is hot only when the key is on, so no worry about leaving them on by mistake.
We are currently on the road, heading home for a "REST". I will try to post some pictures at a later date.
Dave


masseyfarm 04-18-2012 09:19 PM

Spring Fever
 
2 Attachment(s)
Got my new headlight visors in the mail today and installed them this afternoon. I had a set of, what was supposed to be stainless on for the last few years, but they were rust spotting and I could no longer polish out the stains. I put a good coat of wax on these before I installed them so they should last for awhile.

Dave

masseyfarm 09-11-2014 09:30 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Update on this.

The information below solves the original problem but another minor problem of heat, at the switch, needed another modification to OEM installation.

These headlamp switches, have a rheostat for the dash lamps that runs quite hot if operated in any position other than full on or full off. On the CLIPPER there are probably 4 times as many lamps on this circuit as the OEM Switch was designed for.

I have just replaced my switch again (DS188) and installed/added a heat sink to try to alleviate some of this heat. On the CLIPPER, the switch is mounted in a non-metallic dash and there is little opportunity for the heat to be dissipated.

This week I mounted an aluminium heat sink between the switch and the dash and hope that will help the situation. I just don't like things running hotter than what I think they should.

Off for a weekend to the west coast so will get a good chance to check the long term operation of this to see if it actually helps.

Dave


Quote:

Originally Posted by masseyfarm (Post 1003514)
Headlights flickering.
This info applies specifically to the CLIPPER, but may be applicable to other models depending on OEM equipment.
There has been some historical problem with a number of OEM applications where the headlight switch used is that of the Ford application from the 70-80-90's.(F4UZ11654A or E77B11654AA, or many other)
The CLIPPER is one of these, with the headlight switch # D3ZZ11654A.
What happens here is the current draw exceeds the capacity of the switch, resulting in the breaker overheating and cycling, resulting in flashing headlamps.
Any auto/truck/RV forum will have various solutions to this problem, as it is quite common.
Specifically on the CLIPPER on the Freightliner Chassis.
The main power source distribution is on the front bulkhead forward of the driver, (access from outside front panel). Below this is the wire bundle that exits the bulkhead from the control panel. If you expose this wire bundle, you will see 2 #12g white wires, one labelled Headlights High, and the other, Headlights LOW. These are the "power-on" wires from the headlight switch. Both will have a joint in them about 10" further along that go to left and right side of the unit. Cut these wires about 2" before the Y joint. Run these "switch on hot" wires to two new separate 30 amp relays that you have installed on the bulkhead. Include inline 20A circuit breakers in each line. Connect the relays to the corresponding low and high beam wires, run a ground, and hot to the main power source, and you have now solved the headlight problem for about $30.00. (Be sure to fuse the new hots)
As posted earlier, I also separated the running lamps to run off a similar 30A relay.
So now the headlight switch has very little load and all flickering problems have been solved.
As I have posted earlier, I also separated the fog lights from the high beam circuit, and now control them with a foot switch, through a 30A relay, with an indicator lamp on the lower dash to remind me they are on. (the switch on the side panel was not comfortable to use any time, but especially in heavy traffic). This circuit is hot only when the key is on, so no worry about leaving them on by mistake.
We are currently on the road, heading home for a "REST". I will try to post some pictures at a later date.
Dave


tebreuer 11-11-2014 07:39 PM

Dave: My 99 LY 355 XL is on a ford chassis so I wonder if it has the same possible problem, although the ford manual shows a fuse for a Headlight relay. Do you have any information on this?

masseyfarm 11-11-2014 08:16 PM

Sorry I do not for that chassis.

But, if your headlight switch is running hot, first don't run the dash light dimmer, as that is what was creating all the heat at the switch. Either, full on or full off, and the switch will run cool.

To allow use of the dimmer, I just put in a heat sink between the moulded composite dash and the switch, and this seems to be adequate to dissipate the heat.

There is a unit similar to yours for sale here in Nanaimo this week. The gentleman bought it new I think, and his wife has been sick for a couple years and they have not been able to use it. I am not sure if she passed, but he has it for sale now, when I drove past last week.

I took a video but have no snaps of it. It is a single slide.

Dave

masseyfarm 02-25-2015 10:37 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Remember when life was so simple??? Why are all the new "improvements" such a maintenance item after you buy them?

Headlights could be bought for $5.00 and did not need to be polished every 6 months to be able to shine a few feet down the road.

You could turn the key on, start and drive away without having to get the owners manual out to read to determine what the flashing dash symbols are telling you about that bell ringing constantly?

You could go to the shop for maintenance without hearing the dreaded analysis. "It's the computer that has failed! Not sure if we can get one?"

Those were the days of real enjoyment.

Why have so many people discarded solid engineering for todays flaky throwaway bling?"

Everytime I look at the new trucks, cars, motorhomes, I just shake my head with the complication built into the new vehicles. And do these improvements pay off. I doubt it. The upfront cost, the maintenance, the lack of repairability?

"But it is saving the environment?"

How can that be when the landfill is being pilled up with unrepairable junk.

I need to get camping!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Dave


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:09 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.