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-   -   Water heater trouble (http://www.airforums.com/forums/f445/water-heater-trouble-40582.html)

beaubayou 03-21-2008 01:36 PM

Water heater trouble
 
I am having trouble with my Atwood gas/elec water heater. It is getting gas and there is a small flame when you turn it on from inside the camper, but it doesn't go to that blast (like a crawfish burnner) just the same small flame. I checked the fuse on the circut board and it's good, I had a full tank of propane. Anyone have any ideas.

Thanks

Roadtoaster 03-21-2008 02:00 PM

Not a pro here but check for spider web or other obstruction in the orifice. blow it out with compressed air if possible. How you confirmed the gas valve is actually opening?

InsideOut 03-21-2008 02:06 PM

I'd second the suggestion to clean everything out real good...we had the same problem. Blew it all out, cleaned it really well and it's worked fine since...6+ years.

Shari :flowers:

CharlieE 03-21-2008 02:08 PM

I'm a little confused by your question. When you mentioned it's gas and electric do you mean 12volt direct spark ignition or do you mean 110 volt heating element? I have never seen the inside control for the gas and 110 units. The control for my gas only unit with direct spark ignition does not have a small pilot flame and a large flame, but only a large flame. If you are getting a small flame with this unit it might be a gas valve problem. To start with I would check the gas pressure with a manometer. If that is ok it is probably your gas valve. A few years ago I encountered a gas problem where I had a hydraulic lock in the gas line. I disconnected the gas line on the bottom of the tongue and drained out about a cup of dark brown goo. That solved my problem. :lol:

beaubayou 03-21-2008 02:47 PM

gas/110 volts
 
I guess I wasn't very clear. It is a direct spark and the flame is only small. Being the tight wad I am I will try cleaning it out first and see what happens. It has been sitting on a lake sence last year so there could be something in the orfice. I know there isn't a dirt dobber nest or anything big as I did look but took nothing apart the last time we were there. I had to much fishing to do...LOL I guess when we go up after Easter I will plan on it being a work first and fish last.

Thanks.

Pepsi 03-21-2008 04:40 PM

Turn the temp lever to hot before trying anything else. If it has been moved to cold somehow, your pilot light will light, but it will not turn the heater on. On some models this lever is behind the on off knob and can be easy to overlook. I know this sounds over simple. But simple things can be easy to look past because they seem so simple...

lewster 03-21-2008 06:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pepsi
Turn the temp lever to hot before trying anything else. If it has been moved to cold somehow, your pilot light will light, but it will not turn the heater on. On some models this lever is behind the on off knob and can be easy to overlook. I know this sounds over simple. But simple things can be easy to look past because they seem so simple...

For informational purposes only.......there is no pilot on a direct spark ignition(DSI) water heater:D. A coil provides a spark thru an electrode that ignites the LP once the igniter board opens the gas valve, and then stops sparking once the board senses the presence of the flame.

As for the problem, there are several places you should look. First, as mentioned above, is a clear gas supply line, especially at the orifice. This is a tiny, precision-drilled opening that meters the exact amount of LP that your specific model requires. You have to remove the supply tube, and you'll find the orifice threaded into the end.

Carefully remove it and blow compressed air thru it AND NOTHING ELSE!!!!
Never put anything, not even a tooth pic thru the orfice or you will damage it.

Once that is clean, blow out the supply tube and the burner itself and try re-ignition. If you have the same problem, you probably have a bad gas valve. This should first be checked wih a manometer for proper adjustment (11" water guage). If it is set at this parameter, then it is usually defective and should be replaced. They can NOT be serviced!

Hope this helps!:wally:

beaubayou 03-22-2008 09:34 AM

Thanks for all the help. I am going to go with a good cleaning and blowing it out with compressed air first.
Google is a wonderful thing, I was looking at buying a manometer but while searching Google found that a home made one will work just as good for a fraction of the coast.
Thanks again to all.

capt ken 04-11-2015 07:04 PM

atwood G6A-6E problems
 
my heater came on after cleaning wire terminals and ran through a few cycles and and now nothing. replaced eco and therm switch today and still nothing.it's got 12v on each side of thermostat but no voltage coming out of the igniter board. what should I check next?

lewster 04-11-2015 07:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by capt ken (Post 1605978)
my heater came on after cleaning wire terminals and ran through a few cycles and and now nothing. replaced eco and therm switch today and still nothing.it's got 12v on each side of thermostat but no voltage coming out of the igniter board. what should I check next?

If you have 12VDC into the board, you might need a replacement board.....

Rum Runner 01-16-2017 06:56 AM

Water Heater
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by lewster (Post 537004)
For informational purposes only.......there is no pilot on a direct spark ignition(DSI) water heater:D. A coil provides a spark thru an electrode that ignites the LP once the igniter board opens the gas valve, and then stops sparking once the board senses the presence of the flame.

As for the problem, there are several places you should look. First, as mentioned above, is a clear gas supply line, especially at the orifice. This is a tiny, precision-drilled opening that meters the exact amount of LP that your specific model requires. You have to remove the supply tube, and you'll find the orifice threaded into the end.

Carefully remove it and blow compressed air thru it AND NOTHING ELSE!!!!
Never put anything, not even a tooth pic thru the orfice or you will damage it.

Once that is clean, blow out the supply tube and the burner itself and try re-ignition. If you have the same problem, you probably have a bad gas valve. This should first be checked wih a manometer for proper adjustment (11" water guage). If it is set at this parameter, then it is usually defective and should be replaced. They can NOT be serviced!

Hope this helps!:wally:

Lewster,
So what if I have a small flame like a pilot light coming out of the gas valve orifice after the heater cuts off. It stays on until I bloe it off. Does that mean I have a bad valve?

R/ Rum Runner

lewster 01-16-2017 07:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rum Runner (Post 1899729)
Lewster,
So what if I have a small flame like a pilot light coming out of the gas valve orifice after the heater cuts off. It stays on until I bloe it off. Does that mean I have a bad valve?

R/ Rum Runner

Sure sounds like it as your heater does NOT have a pilot flame. I would check the voltage at the gas valve to be sure that it is above 11.0VDC. If it is and the 'pilot' is still present, then I would think that it is either the gas valve or the control board.

If you are reading a full 12.6+VDC at the valve and it is still 'leaking', I would start by replacing the valve. :D


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