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-   -   The welder is coming, the welder is coming... (http://www.airforums.com/forums/f46/the-welder-is-coming-the-welder-is-coming-24467.html)

Safari Tim 07-17-2006 12:15 PM

The welder is coming, the welder is coming...
 
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I'm having a welder look at my frame rot today. I just figure the best way to address this is to have new peices welded to the sides of this bad area on the main frame rail.

I just thought I run it buy you all to see if you had any other ideas, or improvements I should have done while he's working on it.

In the photo the flooring above the bad area is removed so he can get to the top and bottom of the rail.

markdoane 07-17-2006 01:15 PM

Frame repair?
 
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Tim,

Welding new pieces to the sides is not going to be enough. You need to do the top or bottom also.

The frame is a box girder. If you reinforce the sides without repairing the top and bottom, the sides will just crumple when put in tension and compression.

I did three sides on mine, and the fourth side was not rusted at all.

Here is the type of 3-sided sleeve assembly I used:

Safari Tim 07-17-2006 01:34 PM

Thanks Mark,

If I have him add metal to the top, won't that through the level off of the subfloor?

markdoane 07-17-2006 03:58 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Safari Tim
Thanks Mark,

If I have him add metal to the top, won't that through the level off of the subfloor?

Tim,

Yeah. Those are some of the issues you need to deal with in repairs like this. To do it perfect would require a frame out replacement.

There is also a "bump" caused by an extra thickness of metal where the frame is reinforced, over the bend which forms the front yoke. Airstream didn't make any adjustments for it. It's right in front of the step, do you know it's there?

scottanlily 07-17-2006 11:30 PM

hello Tim,

I agree you cannot patch the sides ,I installed new box frame steel tubing
same as the original .you can,t get to the top ,but all around the sides and the bottom and in addition side plates length wise across the welded joint
or a sleeve like markdoane has done .The welder will know what to do if
he knows frame repair.That section in the photo, if possible and accessible,
replace the whole piece with a new box section .I welded all the way around
on mine except the top ,my floor wasn't rotted at all so no access there,The
complete box will be stronger so if you can do it ,that would work .Either
way you will have better frame and stronger than what it is now .Most of the
time the rust starts at the bottom and goes up so it does look like the rust is not up at the top .It will be fine ,just repair where you need to once the
welder gets going on the job ,"crunch" the ideas around on the repairs ,
with the guy or girl ? could be you know.

Scott

Safari Tim 07-17-2006 11:42 PM

Thanks for the ideas guys.

The welder didn't show :angry: So if he doesn't call tomorrow.... time for a new welder!

scottanlily 07-17-2006 11:44 PM

Forgot to say ,I would weld the side reinforcements from the almost the top
down across the butted joint ,called a fishplate ,strengthens the joint ,will
add the strength needed .I don't think you need to worry about the top then.
and the subfloor will not be messed up with layered metal .The top joint can be beveled on each piece then welded ,giving a strong joint ,if accessible
of course,then ground smooth .you bevel the ends of these butted joints for more fill ,more metal in the joint ,only grind the top smooth so the floor fits flat. no need to grind away the welds on the other areas.

Scott

Safari Tim 08-31-2006 10:03 PM

Welding is done!
 
3 Attachment(s)
OK. Finally got the trailer back from the welder.

He replaced the last 2 feet of frame rail, added some support to the A frame, patched up the step outriggers, and moved a cross member so I can fit a larger grey tank.

Here are a couple of pictures. Remember the before picture is in post 1.

scottanlily 08-31-2006 11:40 PM

Looking good Tim ,

you will want to epoxy primer that bare frame then paint it.You really don't
need the por 15 for that new steel ,but the average primer is crap ,epoxy
primer is very good.I used zero rust spray ,works good ,but the moisture can
just about do what it wants no matter what it seems .Im wating for the grey tank photos now !

scott

Safari Tim 08-31-2006 11:59 PM

Thanks Scott.

It's all been por'd with two coats already. The stuff that will be hit by Sunlight will get the silver topcoat tomorrow... Then on to the subfloor replacement.

Tanks in the visualization stage :-)

NorCal Bambi 09-01-2006 09:48 AM

Tim, You are few steps ahead of my current project, I'll be doing some of the same frame mods as you did. Listened to the VAP last night. My step is broken in the same place. Maybe the step brace brakes on the right side because we are all right footed. :) I'll be watching your project with interest. We sure enjoy the VAP. Lots of laughs!!!
Don

Safari Tim 09-01-2006 10:40 AM

Thanks Don,

I'm already a subscriber to your thread.:)

I'm sure glad to have all this frame work done. Hopefully that is all the frame suprises.

I seem to be doing more demolition than restoration!




Quote:

Originally Posted by NorCal Bambi
Tim, You are few steps ahead of my current project, I'll be doing some of the same frame mods as you did. Listened to the VAP last night. My step is broken in the same place. Maybe the step brace brakes on the right side because we are all right footed. :) I'll be watching your project with interest. We sure enjoy the VAP. Lots of laughs!!!
Don


muddy_hollow 09-01-2006 10:53 AM

Cost of work done
 
I've got a 56 that needs almost the identical piece of work done. What did the job run you?

Safari Tim 09-01-2006 11:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by muddy_hollow
I've got a 56 that needs almost the identical piece of work done. What did the job run you?

I was charged for 9.5 hours of labor. My total bill was $675.

I was able to supply the metal for the frame repair pictured. That saved me a little.


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