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-   -   Help --need a '67 floor template (http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/help-need-a-67-floor-template-23461.html)

pinkflamingoes 06-10-2006 04:43 PM

Help --need a '67 floor template
 
Does anyone out there have a 1967, and are you willing to draw up a template for the shape of the floor in the back, so we can cut our replacement floor to the correct shape? I tore out the floor in sections, it was horribly rotted back there anyway, so I doubt it would have helped. I don't know the best way to come up with the floor shape, maybe just draw it on a piece of paper...anyway, any help would be appreciated. You can even tear out your old floor and send it to me. Just kidding.

Or, ideas? I threw away the front template thinking the back would be intact. The front and back might not be the same shape anyway.

I know we have to fit the belly pan underneath the shell. Getting the floor properly shaped and sized is going to be fun.

uwe 06-10-2006 08:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pinkflamingoes
Does anyone out there have a 1967, and are you willing to draw up a template for the shape of the floor in the back, so we can cut our replacement floor to the correct shape? I tore out the floor in sections, it was horribly rotted back there anyway, so I doubt it would have helped. I don't know the best way to come up with the floor shape, maybe just draw it on a piece of paper...anyway, any help would be appreciated. You can even tear out your old floor and send it to me. Just kidding.

Or, ideas? I threw away the front template thinking the back would be intact. The front and back might not be the same shape anyway.

I know we have to fit the belly pan underneath the shell. Getting the floor properly shaped and sized is going to be fun.

I would not necessarily use someone else's floor template, as I do not believe they're all the same. What was left of mine has some rough shapes to it, not even smooth curves.
You best make your own according to the curve of the c-channel.

pinkflamingoes 06-10-2006 09:01 PM

Gotcha.

NorCal Bambi 06-10-2006 10:29 PM

Uwe's suggestion on using the C channel is the best idea. I would also suggest that you do a pre fit of the shell to the floor. I did and had to make some changes to make the final fit. It appears that each vintage trailer was actually a custom construction. Much like aircraft of the era. They were all make from similar parts but individually constructed.
Don

Stefrobrts 06-10-2006 10:46 PM

I bought some of that thin paper-board type panel material at home depot, it's like 1/4" thick, 4 x8 sheet, and very lightweight, and I used that to make a template, using the rotted out flor pieces and guessing at the missing bits. The stuff was cheap enough to screw up on and not feel so bad. Then when I had it just right I transferred the pattern to the expensive marine plywood.

pinkflamingoes 06-10-2006 11:00 PM

Ok
 
Wonderful. Thanks both. At least we can struggle with it knowing there really isn't an easier way, that is known. I'm still working on the frame and windows, then we make wheel wells and then the floor goes in. I'll keep you posted.

Norcal, I am following your thread and wondering if you would be willing to give me more information on your custom bathroom. We need to make one that goes over the wheel well on the side, as we have a double axle trailer. Did you fabricate your bathroom out of wood and then seal it somehow? We are most likely going with fiberglass or stainless steel but we're exploring all of our options. I know it's down the road from us but I need to think about tank placement before we do the belly pan, etc etc.

Sigh everything depends on everything else!!

NorCal Bambi 06-11-2006 09:13 AM

The Bath setup in my Bambi is actually original. I just rebuilt the unit because it was in fairly bad shape. When I get to the 55 FC I'll have to build from nothing. The process is fairly long and time consuming, but I believe it keeps the cost down. I've found that having someone else do the work gets expensive. If you get to the point of building before I do, we could discuss the process. The question is always does one have more time or money! I would like to see more pictures of your progress.
Build on Don:)

NorCal Bambi 06-11-2006 09:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stefrobrts
I bought some of that thin paper-board type panel material at home depot, it's like 1/4" thick, 4 x8 sheet, and very lightweight, and I used that to make a template, using the rotted out flor pieces and guessing at the missing bits. The stuff was cheap enough to screw up on and not feel so bad. Then when I had it just right I transferred the pattern to the expensive marine plywood.

Stephanie, could you give more details on the paper-board material you used. I've used an art board in the past. Your material sound more substantial and maybe a better cost.
Don

65glbtrotter 06-11-2006 10:07 AM

Sounds to me like hardboard

pinkflamingoes 06-11-2006 08:49 PM

We ended up using cardboard to scribe a corner from underneath, and use the same piece upside down for the other corner. I figure we're going to be shaving down the edge for correct fit and for the belly pan to go underneath, so trying to get it perfectly by template isn't necessary. After all, we had a perfect template from our front floor end, and that one ended up needing cutting down anyway.

It's got two coats of varnish on it now and is drying in the driveway!

uwe 06-11-2006 09:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pinkflamingoes
We ended up using cardboard to scribe a corner from underneath, and use the same piece upside down for the other corner. I figure we're going to be shaving down the edge for correct fit and for the belly pan to go underneath, so trying to get it perfectly by template isn't necessary. After all, we had a perfect template from our front floor end, and that one ended up needing cutting down anyway.

It's got two coats of varnish on it now and is drying in the driveway!

Ingrid,
I forgot that you're not doing a shell-off floor replacement. In your case a good fitting pattern is essential. Youwill have to wrestle the plywood in and out a few times, probably.
Sealing the wood is definitely a good idea. Looks like you are making very good progress.

pinkflamingoes 06-12-2006 01:50 AM

Danke!

We're doing the ends first, then the center of the trailer, so that we can rassle that bad boy around, cut it, trim it, and get the shell ends on a little easier. Progress feels good.

Stefrobrts 06-12-2006 02:32 AM

Hi don, it might be called hardboard. It's indoor panelling, and it looks like cardboard color on one side, and chintzy fake woodgrain on the other side. It's costs $7-14 a sheet, and we use it for a lot of theater projects, because it makes for lightweight but realistic walls for our sets, so we have plenty of it laying around.

60traveler 07-30-2006 10:54 PM

Did you use one solid piece or cut the plywood and splice it in? we are just starting to figure out how to completely replace the subfloor in our 1960 Traveler (shell on). We don't have the wiggle room in the rear to use one solid piece so we aren't sure whether to do a big pieces along the length or across the back? We will have to splice two pieces together somehow we just aren't sure which way or how. Any ideas??

What size plywood are you going with? the original is 5/8 but without the width of the old floor we thought 3/4 would do but i don't think that is going to fill all the way around and we don't want to tweak the shell.

any thoughts, tips, help, advice, etc. would be very helpful. Martha and Stacia

pinkflamingoes 07-31-2006 12:30 AM

Hi there,

We cut the entire piece that will fit across the back 1/3 or so of the trailer, and it should go sideways through the door. I'll take a picture and post it here tomorrow. More info then, too...

C Johnson 07-31-2006 12:35 AM

Hey there, long time no see.

I would go with the 5/8". It'll give you less grief during the install. Best case, you want to have a solid piece across (side to side) for rigidity. Remember the shell rests on the floor which is bolted to the frame. If you split the floor up the middle you will lessen its strength by half.

Is there a way you can slide the rear and front sections in as a whole ? If so I would do that and I would think you could then get away with some very strong splices.

It would be helpful if we could see pics of what you are up against.

Keep us all posted ! :)

Creampuff 07-31-2006 12:38 AM

Ingrid:
I recently replaced the rear 4 ft section of a "67 OL. After getting the full shhet cut I relized it would be very difficult if not impossible to install in one piece because the trailer is not completely gutted and the forward floor sheet was o.k.
I then ripped the repair sheet where it lays on the floor joist front of the blacktank (about 16" from front edge) and using an angle iron and heavy hammer was able to drift that puppy right where it lives under the "c" channel.
Drop in your last 16" piece and fasten well. I used large self tapping flathead metal screws as All the belly was not exposed.

pinkflamingoes 08-01-2006 03:11 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Yes, I did forget to mention that our trailer is completely gutted, and the belly pan is OFF. Here is a picture and I'll post the progress on getting the floor in, if that ever happens. It's summer and everyone wants work done on their house, so my husband is busy. Doing it myself is asking for trouble. Here is a picture of what we have cut. Well, he cut and I treated. I'm sure we'll have to trim the edges once it's laid down under the C-channel and over the frame.

We just cut out a cardboard box to flat, held it under the trailer, and traced it onto the box. Cut the corner, and then duplicated it the other side, only we turned the cardboard template upside down. As Uwe and others mentioned, there's no standard template for floors...you just have to freehand it any way you can.

Here's the picture. I hope this was of some help but I have a feeling not much!!


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