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ChrisnPatty 08-07-2019 02:28 PM

Victron 712 Install
I know this specific question has been addressed on these forums, but I cannot find the answer, so please pardon the repeat.

I will be installing the Victron 712 in my 22FB as part of my upgrade to a Lithium Battery. Other than switching my converter to a Lithium compatible unit, I plan to keep everything else very simple.

I have a portable Zamp solar panel which plugs into an external fitting with two wires that currently run directly to the battery terminals.

I believe I recall some discussion on this forum regarding the routing of the negative solar wire when installing the Victron shunt.

So, my question is: Can I leave the negative solar wire routed to the battery terminal, or should it be routed to the same connection on the shut as the negative battery lead. If the latter, is it connected on the input or the output side of the shunt?

ROBERT CROSS 08-07-2019 05:49 PM

1 Attachment(s)
The shunt is wired separately from the solar.
Plug the panel into the external Zamp connector.

Wire them shunt as illustrated.👍


waninae39 08-07-2019 06:52 PM

see my post some time ago with my schematic file.
it shows how to install all the victor items with Lion battery

Paprika 08-07-2019 07:19 PM

"Can I leave the negative solar wire routed to the battery terminal... ?"

No. In order for the BMV-712 to measure power input/output accurately, all current must pass through the shunt. That includes current from the solar power system.

If you left the solar system's wire on the battery, or on the input side of the shunt, the BMV-712 would not "see" its power input and thus you'd get increasingly false low readings. (I made this mistake once, many years ago.)

So there can only be one connection to the negative battery terminal: the jumper to the input side of the shunt. The solar power wire, along with all the other wires that were on battery's negative terminal, must be moved to the output side of the shunt.

By the way, the Zamp panel's built-in charging controller is almost certainly not designed for use with LiFePO4 batteries. Check this with your battery manufacturer, but if I were you I'd be replacing it with a (much more efficient) Victron Smart Solar 75/15 controller.

ChrisnPatty 08-07-2019 08:10 PM

Thanks All. I think I've got it figured out.

The Victron supplied wiring diagram doesn't show a line for power supplied from the solar panels. Thus it was less than helpful.

Waninae39, your diagram is impressive, but much more complicated than my simple set up, with the additional bits and pieces you have included in your system, it was unclear how to directly address the power supply from the solar.

Based on the input from the forum, I conclude I will need to lead the negative supply wire from my solar connection directly to the output side of the Victron shunt.

My Zamp's built in solar controller modual actually is designed to handle LiFePO4 batteries. It can handle them in addition to LTO, Gel, AGM, conventional lead-acid and Calcium batteries.

Thanks again for the advice.

Garfish 08-12-2019 09:07 AM

Can you post pix of where you installed the shunt as I am looking to do the same and not sure where negative cables connect to battery inside

PKI 08-12-2019 11:02 AM

Garfish - I don't know. Not a 22 owner, but suspect the cables all enter the coach from under the floor in the curb side front corner under the bed. Look to verify as the street side corner is also a possibility.

Believe Waninae39 posted an "as found" picture in one of his examples. May be easiest to just look under the bed as models vary by year.

There is also some difficulty in shunt location as the inverter and converter have separate wiring. The complete battery/solar/inverter/converter/upgrades address that with new wiring runs. The simple BM add-on is more problematic, but lots of folks do it, so you should get a response from one of them.

Some info in the thread about locating shunt in battery box. Believe you posted there.

Good luck with your investigation. The BM does help. Pat

Garfish 08-12-2019 10:29 PM

Thanks for the advice. No inverter in sport so will check wire runs

TheSquire 08-13-2019 09:29 PM

On a 22fb the 6 gauge wires running from the battery box on the tongue enter on the roadside under the bed. There is a small cover to access the furnace and the bus bars. This is where I mounted the shunt. This is also where the solar pre-wiring is routed. An added bonus is there is an RJ45 wired from this point to just behind the existing meter in the bathroom, so if you want to mount the monitor nearby the existing one, you can use the existing wiring as well.

I also had to rewire the negative leads for the Zamp solar port on the tongue so it is after the shunt (not directly connected to the battery).

Hop this helps.


Garfish 08-13-2019 10:47 PM

Thanks, Rich

Garfish 08-21-2019 08:17 AM

My suitcase solar plugs into 7 pin. Guess that will not work with the the shunt?

TheSquire 08-22-2019 07:46 AM


Originally Posted by Garfish (Post 2279515)
My suitcase solar plugs into 7 pin. Guess that will not work with the the shunt?

That should work fine. The 7-pin is wired to the negative bus bar. You just donít want anything wired directly to the negative battery terminal. Anything that is wired to the negative battery terminal, just move to the other side of the shunt.

uncle_bob 08-22-2019 08:29 AM


Bottom line:

There is no magic trick to mounting the shunt. You have to put in a cable from the battery negative over to the shunt. Everything external moves off of the battery negative. The only thing that goes there is the wire to the shunt.

Second gotcha is that the shunt needs to stay dry. Best approach is to mount it "indoors" in the trailer.


cru-in 08-22-2019 08:42 AM

With your install. Remember you need to isolate the TV batteries (Lead Acid) from the TT batteries (Lithium). Otherwise the TT's LI Battery (with a higher voltage than the Lead Acid in the TV) will bleed charge to charge the TV battery.

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