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-   -   Installing 30 amp power and water outlet on my 97 Safari. (http://www.airforums.com/forums/f255/installing-30-amp-power-and-water-outlet-on-my-97-safari-186717.html)

montanablue 09-07-2018 07:38 AM

Installing 30 amp power and water outlet on my 97 Safari.
 
3 Attachment(s)
Wanted to get suggestions about installing a Marinco 30amp power inlet and a Shurflo water fill outlet.

I have posted pictures of the location with blue tape. Top one is power of course and bottom is water. It is marked at 16 inches right of access door and 4 inches right of rib. Sits about 10 1/2" from floor.

Last shot is of inside. I have marked approximately where they will be on inside.

My Safari is a rear twin.

Any suggestions before I cut holes? Tips?

Thanks on advance.
RickAttachment 321773Attachment 321774Attachment 321775

montanablue 09-07-2018 08:44 AM

Also, I am using a 2 3/4" and 3 1/2" hole saw to cut holes. I will be taping off outside areas.

Any help with this would also be appreciated.
Thanks,
Rick

Chuck 09-07-2018 09:48 AM

I would check out the smart plug, if you haven't already.

https://smartplug.com/


assuming that these are not the original inlet locations. why are you re-locating them?

montanablue 09-07-2018 10:00 AM

I am installing these because I am repairing floor in rear of camper. Both the power and water come up through the floor. Installing these inlets will route them through side of camper. I can control and water leaks and have access above floor for both.

Chuck 09-07-2018 10:15 AM

well, it looks pretty straight-forward, having clear access to both sides, and all. If you haven't used the hole-saw before, it seems intimidating, but its kind of anti-climactic. (no big whoop). I was anxious drilling a hole in the roof for a new antenna (different location from original), so I was concerned about hitting something important that I couldn't see, but you don't have that issue.
I'm thinking of re-locating my water inlet, too; (same back corner location.) I just noticed in your profile that you have a 73 tradewind...same bathroom situation as mine, and the inlet/pressure regulator/plumbing is un-reachable from inside, when the bathroom is installed. (I'm totally gutted, now). Thinking of relocating it to under the street-side bunk, just aft of the wheel well, where there would be access, and the line in can tee into the main water lines that run fore/aft under that bunk. There is just enough room for it to be located in front of the bulkhead/behind the wheel well, and under the bunk.

vintagemotor 09-07-2018 10:58 AM

It looks good! Glad to see the power on top. When drilling, rotate the drill head very slowly, most drills will have speed control with the trigger. If you have any scrap, practice is recommended!
Good Luck!

waninae39 09-07-2018 11:05 AM

IMHO, get the smart plug,.

https://smartplug.com/

we installed that in our 22FB

it the new std for RV now
much better power transfer that the old twist lock

plus it fits into the same hole including the screw holes

montanablue 09-07-2018 11:09 AM

I thought about it. Someone else bought up a good fact that not everybody stocks them and if a problem were to occur parts or replacements might be an issue. You thoughts on that?

waninae39 09-07-2018 11:14 AM

i have two chords, both have the smart plug
like any std, someone has to start.

rmkrum 09-07-2018 11:56 AM

When you are drilling a hole in soft aluminum with a largish hole saw, drill the pilot hole with a long standard drill bit first. It makes it easier to control the hole saw when you drill the hole. It also lets you line up the center of the inside and outside holes easier.

Use a quality bimetal holesaw assembly with a locking spindle and fine teeth if you can find one. Don't skimp on the tooling!

If it is a multi-gear speed drill, set to a medium speed and use the variable speed trigger to slowly and gently start the cut with the saw part. Don't use a lot of pressure, and try to keep square to the surface so the saw cuts evenly all around the center hole. You don't want to dig in all the way on one side. I sometimes have to gently rock the drill motor in a small circle to get a clean cut all the way around as I start the cut.

Go slowly and carefully. Don't let the drill snag, torque around, and hurt you or scar the aluminum. Wear eye protection and leather gloves, and have secure footing while you do this.

Watch out for the fiberglass insulation tangling into the pilot bit and saw blade. If it does, stop and run the drill a tiny bit in reverse or twist it by hand to untangle. Try to push the insulation out of the way somewhat with a coathanger or stiff wire through the pilot hole.

I'd start on the inside, and once you have a clean hole, reach in with a leather-gloved hand and push the insulation clear of the edges of the hole, then drill the smaller hole from outside. Helps prevent snagging on the outside, where it's hard to conceal...

I also highly recommend the SmartPlug system. Much better connection, and less fumbling to get it connected...

Chuck 09-07-2018 12:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by montanablue (Post 2152925)
I thought about it. Someone else bought up a good fact that not everybody stocks them and if a problem were to occur parts or replacements might be an issue. You thoughts on that?


My plan, (should I ever get that far :rolleyes:), is to just buy a spare inlet plug, and store it in the camper. What kind of "problem" could occur? most likely either the whole cable is swiped, left behind, or the inlet plug damaged (stepped on, run over, etc). The rest of the cable, including the pedestal end plug, is just standard stuff that could be easily replaced in a pinch.



an incident involving the receptacle that is installed in the trailer....well, something happens to that, we've probably got bigger problems.

montanablue 09-08-2018 04:24 AM

Ok, having second thoughts about the water hook up. It requires a 3 1/2" hole. Power is on 2 1/2". The big advantages are looks nice and has built in regulator. Does anybody have a suggested alternative?

Bubba L 09-08-2018 05:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by montanablue (Post 2153159)
Ok, having second thoughts about the water hook up. It requires a 3 1/2" hole. Power is on 2 1/2". The big advantages are looks nice and has built in regulator. Does anybody have a suggested alternative?

We just finished installing power, water, and coax on our 55. The power was the Furrion and the water outlet was an Ambassador Marine Water Outlet 316 SS with a 1/2” NPF. Water hose connection on outside. I drilled a 3/4” hole, added a 3” nipple to the back of the water outlet. I connected all outlets with 8/32 rivnuts and their gasket or butyl if there wasn’t a gasket. With the Furrion power outlet, I marked everything, drilled a pilot hole, then used side cutters to cut the large hole. I was concerned with control of the hole saw bit. On the inside I have a small covered chase behind the back of the toilet (dead space) where I can get to all the connections in the future if need be. Good luck, Bubba

Argosy 7728 09-08-2018 06:35 PM

2 Attachment(s)
This is what I did on our Argosy. I used a nibbler (harbor freight) to cut the holes and installed power outlets with rivet nuts. The second power inlet is for solar.


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