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my3sonsdad 04-15-2018 06:32 PM

75 Argosy “Refresh”
3 Attachment(s)
I’ve had my Argosy for several years without doing any major work as life always seems to get in the way. I finally have the time, resources, motivation and insights (thanks to the many here who have tread this path before me)

I’m starting with the belly pan & wraps to finally say good bye to the luxury mouse accommodations that lurk beneath. I still have the original axles, so I plan to replace them as well.

I contemplated using a gantry setup and taking off the shell but for now I’m going to take the shell-on approach until something forces me down another path.

Yesterday I raised the front to give myself some extra clearance and removed the gas lines without a problem.

I was able to do the front section up to the axles in about 5 hours. There were less than a dozen rivets remaining on the underside and quite a few left larger holes in the belly pan. So far the frame and floor looks in good shape. I plan to clean up the frame and then apply POR. It should be good for another 40 years. I have a few known small areas of the flooring to patch, but need to find the source of persistent leaks. I will also be looking for all the ways critters can make their way into the camper and dealing with them.

Attachment 308801Attachment 308802Attachment 308803

JDunn303 04-16-2018 05:15 AM

Thanks for sharing. I just purchased a '75 Argosy 26' just 2 weeks ago. Picked it up in Texas and towed to Florida. Trip went well. Overall the trailer seems to be in reasonable condition and I'm in the initial stages of figuring out what works and what doesn't. Floor seems solid. Thinking about pulling the belly pan so I can check out the frame just as you're doing. I'll be following your thread, keep us posted and good luck.

my3sonsdad 04-18-2018 06:42 PM

I am exploring the idea of removing the front interior plastic endcap and building a front bunk. I’ve seen it done in the rear of a 60s AS but not seen this done by anyone else in the front so I’m wondering if there’s a structural reason. I’d need to come up with a way to support it from the 1st ceiling rib and at the same time have the front side be on a hinge so rear side (above the dining area) could tilt up towards and closer to the ceiling when not in use.

rugjenkins 04-20-2018 07:02 AM

The front and the rear are built the same structurally. The main difference is the windows. Curious on how someone built the bunks in the rear. Anything that has to have good structural support would have to be mounted from the base up.

matthewsx 04-21-2018 12:05 PM

1 Attachment(s)
This is how bunks were done originally in my 1976 26' twin.

Cast aluminum hooks mounted to the side wall and cast "pockets" actually catches for the ball ends of steel cables that go from the roof to the folding bed frame. Pretty sure they had some kind of straps rather than the macrame rope arrangement my PO did on this frame.

Anyway, I'd be much more inclined to make bunks amidships than at the front endcap. There's not much room above the window so whoever was sleeping there would have to be pretty small.



my3sonsdad 04-21-2018 03:02 PM

I’m starting to settle on a nonbunk solution that has a twin (actually the former front gaucho) replacing the rear bath area as part of a larger floor plan mod to move the rear bath to the center and replace the front gaucho with a U-shaped dinette. The existing rear twins shift back also.

Only a small matter of relocating the door 1.5-2’ to the rear and reversing the door swing. Looking for someone more qualified to do the structural work involved (ribs, external panels, door reverse). I know AS Factory does this but I prefer to find someone more local.

I miss Franks Trailer Works who was about an hour away in Baltimore :(

matthewsx 04-21-2018 03:38 PM

I'm into my second Argosy, have repaired the front floor and removed all bath fixtures so I can do the rear. All I can say is if I wanted a center bath unit I would probably sell the trailer I have and shop for one with the features I'm looking for.

There's somebody on here that's converting to a mid-bath so you can see what's involved....



my3sonsdad 04-23-2018 09:54 AM

1 Attachment(s)
This the floorplan concept I’m working on. Still working on the shower layout. Next step will be to layout the major electrical/plumbing elements. I’m planning to permanently remove the furnace and hot water tank and use a tankless system. Adding new grey and black water tanks near the axles. Still pondering whether to keep the current water tank or replace with 2 larger tanks on each side of the dinette.Attachment 309368

rugjenkins 04-23-2018 10:51 AM

Why all the wasted space behind the beds? I have done what you are planning. Currently I'm painting the interior skins and about to put in the flooring. Be careful not to put to much weight on the tongue area.

my3sonsdad 04-23-2018 02:12 PM

That area has a 3rd twin bed (former front gaucho) with storage closets above and in the corners.

Argosy man 04-29-2018 07:10 AM

Your frame looks good. From some repairs I have done some that exposed the frame- my frame looks pretty decent too. Mine has been outside its whole life in Michigan (covered in the winter). Wonder why some rot out so much faster than others?

Not sure what shape your interior is- but I have to agree with the previous post, that I would find a trailer with your desired layout or one that has already been gutted before I would tear up an original. Just my opinion.


my3sonsdad 05-12-2018 10:56 PM

tank vent question : if I design the shower to drain directly into a grey tank from above and the grey tank is separately vented I won’t need to vent the shower drain, correct? If I were to have the kitchen sink drain to the same grey tank and I think that drain would still need to have a vent. (?)

rugjenkins 05-13-2018 07:39 AM

For the shower you need to put in a p-trap or a hepvo drain to eliminate odors. Good question, I think the grey tank vent is all you need for the shower. The kitchen sink does need one so it can drain.

Minno 05-13-2018 09:43 AM

Yeah, what Rugjenkins said. You need a trap under the shower drain to keep odors from coming back up into the trailer. Grey water can get pretty stinky. Our trap extends below the trailer, and is encased in a wooden box for protection. That way we didn't have to raise the tub/shower floor to accommodate the trap.
In looking at your design, be careful of your weight distribution throughout the trailer. Watch where your outside storage areas are too. We were going to put a center bath in ours, but ended up with rear bath because of where our outside storage hatches were: we would have ended up with unusable storage hatches. We spent some quality time with cardboard mockups and painters tape in the trailer before finalizing the design to make sure we had the room we needed to navigate the trailer. It helped immensely with our decisions, and we are very happy with the final results for us.
Good luck!


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