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hopmonster 05-29-2017 02:10 PM

City Water Relocation (Frankenstream)
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Last summer I realized (after it was ripped off during a trip home) that the city water hookup on my 77 Sovereign was not original. Looks like a like broke and rather drop belly pans they ran copper from curbside to just under the city water hook up was just hanging out there waiting for some tractor rubber to yank it off.

Anyhoo I'm going to carry on the tradition the PO started and re-route the city water connection. What I want to do is instal a Shurflo connection beside the water filling port and tap that into the existing water lines. So yes cut hole in AS to move connection to street side.

Below are the pics to what I'm working with. The exterior shot shows the sharkbite plug I installed when the connections were ripped. I may sweat in a valve to empty system fall. That line runs up into trailer and into original pressure regulator under stove (where all that spray foam is). You can also see in the third pic there is a tee connection with a plug in it coming from that line...I'm thinking of pex connecting the SHurflo inlet into this as the path of least resistance. Do any of the plumbing trail blazers out there think this is a) Advisable and b) going to work?

I'm looking for any guidance or input that is available (newbie here)...alas this AS is going to last until I can afford that Tommy Bahama edition (seriously how gorgeous is that thing!).

Thanks all in advance

dbj216 05-29-2017 07:29 PM

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He from Colorado. You are right, the PO fresh water connection was in a really bad spot. Funny, my son's 69 Globetrotter factory fresh water connection was mounted on the frame rail between the bumper and body. Also in a bad spot. At least it was street side.

Here is the fresh water inlet I used, but there are others. It had the check valve and regulator (not adjustable) built in:

The painful part is drilling about an 1 1/2" hole in your trailer with a hole saw. Trust me, you will get over it. And then plumb it as needed. I have replumbed my trailer from copper to PEX. PEX is ideal for campers in my view.

Yep, your plan will work. You are wise to relocate to the street side as that is where the utility posts are in most RV parks.


HiJoeSilver 05-30-2017 06:50 PM

Yes it will work. I moved mine from the rear bumper to near the FW tank fill.
A couple suggestions.

Use hole saws to cut the holes. The instructions tell the size. Cut that in some scrap to check the fit.

Trace the shape of the fill on paper or cardboard, cut it out and tape it to the side of the trailer to visualize where you want in.

Measure inside and outside to be sure there aren't any visible obstructions.

Drill a small 1/8" pilot hole to probe inside the wall for wires or things like the ac drain tube before cutting.

Drill slowly not the drill speed but light pressure and try to keep the pressure even to keep drill from jumping.

Use 12" of flexible hose before you attach the inlet to PEX, the stress vibrations caused by the PEX can cause the inlet to fail wherevthe inner and outer halfs meet causing leaks, common. Also it's on the instructions for a reason. PEX is flexible but it's not flexible.

hopmonster 05-31-2017 09:20 PM

Thanks much...that is exactly the Shurflo valve I purchased. I probably attempt the hole drilling this weekend...I think my wife is more worried than I am.

hopmonster 05-31-2017 09:24 PM

Thank you for the advice. TBH I was questioning the importance of the instructions suggesting to use flexible hose, but now reading your advice I'll definitely heed it.

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