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SilverLife 04-01-2017 04:25 PM

2017 22' Sport Improvements
 
6 Attachment(s)
I posted my list of improvements previously, not in order and have started on a few. I will continue to add the accomplished ones here. This one is for a wifi operated (not bluetooth) tiny backup camera. I'll rated this as 3 rivets for difficulty if done from scratch, BUT I already have much of the interior removed for other items so then it becomes simple.
Installation took about an hour working carefully. I began by pulling the plate bracket off the rear. There is a very small rubber grommet behind it with ground and hot wires. I was careful not to pull the grommet loose from
the aluminum shell but inserted the wire to the camera through the grommet nested with the other two wires. I bolted (not screwed) the tiny camera bracket to the top of the plastic LED light that illuminates the license plate. I had previously drilled a 3/4" hole in the interior aluminum skin to be able to fish the camera wire through under the lavatory sink. I mounted the wireless antenna in the lavatory cabinet just under the countertop with 3m VHB tape. I grounded the unit to the shell and tied in to the parking lights to power it (12v). That way I can monitor rear traffic as I drive, since I always tow day or night with my lights on. The wireless sends the signal to my phone which can set on top of the steering console as I back up. The camera has a 170 degree field of view, with or without gridlines. I walked up to 200' feet away from the trailer and still had a clear picture on my phone. Absolutely no glitches setting up with the Android app and no problems with aluminum interference. The app will also record movies and sound as well but is limited to one's phone storage. I did not want another monitor cluttering the dash and am very pleased with it so far for the reasonable cost. PM me if you have questions.

SilverLife 04-01-2017 04:32 PM

Extra Cabinet Space
 
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There is no way I am putting the cheesy magazine rack back beside the toilet. Look at all that space! This will be a cabinet with door and open shelves beside the toilet. The laminate is readily available from my suppliers, but anyone can order it from a big box store. It is a WilsonArt White Cypress. PM me for the number or just Google it.

AWCHIEF 04-01-2017 04:34 PM

Happy April Fools Day.

SilverLife 04-07-2017 12:19 PM

Integral Back Up Lights
 
4 Attachment(s)
My install of back up lights differs slightly from the (well written) version posted by Boxite who added two new lights in addition to the stock LED taillights. I did not care for the look of four lights and didn’t want to cut extra holes in the exterior skin, so I replaced the OEM unit with an Optronics Glo Light with a clear center back up light. I also did not like the plastic chrome visor bezel with its additional three (already rusting zinc plated) screws, so I fabricated an aluminum visor with a rolled edge for the vintage look.

I have two strong objections with Airstream on the factory wiring and tail light fasteners: as Boxite pointed out, the wire from the junction box under the bed on the street side to the rear of the trailer is absent from the factory harness; and the rusting self tapping screws used to fasten the taillights to the skin have basically a one shot use before stripping. Indeed, one screw was stripped already from the factory, probably overtightened. And IMO, all of the 12 screws are going to fail eventually from vibration on every unit they manufacture, allowing water to enter around the taillights. You cannot rely on a self tapping zinc screw to stay tight through a 3/64” thick aluminum wall, in a bouncing trailer!!! It only takes three automotive clip nuts per side at a RETAIL cost of about one dollar to remedy this. (Ridiculous and unacceptable details, from Airstream engineering…) But (sigh), I digress once again, from my own thread….

ohmman 04-07-2017 04:49 PM

Loving this thread, SilverLife.


I purchased a duplicate backup camera from Tesla for my Model X, as well as wiring harnesses. I plan to do what you did with the license plate light and mount the Tesla camera back there. I will run cables to the front of the AS and hope to make a connector that allows me to disconnect my Tesla rear-view camera and connect this one instead. That way it'll show up on the 17" screen in my car, which is also available when driving. The camera and display are HD, so hopefully it'll solve all visibility issues.

Keep updating us about your... well, updates!

SilverLife 04-07-2017 05:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ohmman (Post 1933287)
Loving this thread, SilverLife.


I purchased a duplicate backup camera from Tesla for my Model X, as well as wiring harnesses. I plan to do what you did with the license plate light and mount the Tesla camera back there. I will run cables to the front of the AS and hope to make a connector that allows me to disconnect my Tesla rear-view camera and connect this one instead. That way it'll show up on the 17" screen in my car, which is also available when driving. The camera and display are HD, so hopefully it'll solve all visibility issues.

Keep updating us about your... well, updates!

Thanks. I'm having fun doing it. I guess.[emoji53] Just to let you know, the hole I drilled in the interior skin directly behind the license plate light was easily accomplished by removing the lav sink trap and using a regular drill aiming straight on through the vanity cabinet. Didn't need to remove the cab door either.

SilverLife 04-07-2017 06:03 PM

Also, the fussiest part of the camera install was fixing it to the plastic cover on the plate light. There's a tiny metal support under the plastic that had to be dealt with to allow the tiny 10/24 bolts and nuts to clear. And it was a royal PITA to get it back together and snapped into the rubber mounting bracket. Ugh... It always the end of the day and you're in a hurry to finish the project and see if the camera works and.....

SilverLife 04-16-2017 05:24 PM

Installed a Dexter #11 3" lift as well as a Reese Flex light duty (4-600 lb. tongue wt.) WD hitch, today. Also painted the entire (rusty from factory) undercarriage black while it was up. Will also have to move a 1/2" LP line tomorrow, as I noticed it was severely kinked from the factory and will also rub now on the bolt heads of the lift kit where it threads over the axle on the street side. The Dexter kit is PNI (pretty near impossible) to install without specialty tools, like an open end offset 15/16" wrench and a 1/2" pneumatic impact gun. God help someone​ who attempts it withour air tools, two floor jacks and 4 jack stands on concrete. I used a hydraulic floor lift and still found the 150 lb. bolt torque challenging. It is possible to get a wrench in to hold the heads while torquing but installing the frame bolts first is mandatory. I did this job alone.
The Reese wasn't entirely necessary if towing speeds were kept between 55-60. But the sway increases exponentially approaching 65 and the porpoising was annoying over major dips and bumps. The Reese eliminated both and allows relative carefree driving at 65. It's kind of a PITA to connect and disconnect but now I can take a nap without worrying, while the wife drives. 😁
Painting. Well what can I say. Painting just sucks.😕

SilverLife 04-29-2017 08:56 AM

Sport Bed Upgrade
 
4 Attachment(s)
We decided to enlarge the twin/queen to a california queen, that is from 54 x 78 to 60 x 84. While I was at it, I also decided to increase the thickness to 9". I ordered the mattress from AB Lifestyles and set about making a new platform. What I quickly realized was AS's complete lack of craftsmanship in the support for the platform was a limiting factor to say the least. The platform undercarriage wasn't fastened to the wall or floor anywhere and was barely held together by sheetmetal screws, split and warped wood. Definitely not flat OR sturdy; two minimal requirements for a bed IMO. So, as usual per this trailer, I rebuilt the entire platform assembly from scratch, with future planning for two battery locations on either side. Replaced the flimsy factory piano hinge with HD stainless steel and banded the edge with walnut with enough height to add a mattress vent pad in the future. Anywhere a wood panel touched metal I banded the edge with HD foam strip. First trip out we slept very, very comfortably.:sleep:

SilverLife 04-29-2017 09:14 AM

Faucet Upgrade
 
2 Attachment(s)
Added a Toto to the bathroom and a handheld pullout low profile to the kitchen with a pump undercounter dish soap dispenser. When I pulled the sinks, there was no caulking in the lavatory sink and a large 1/8" gap between the sink rim and countertop where it appears to have been dropped before installation. The kitchen sink caulk peeled off with no effort at all. So, thoroughly glued down and rim straightened, neither sink should leak. Speaking of leaks, I checked for leaks at the hot and cold supplies BEFORE reinstalling the sinks; otherwise I'd never have known once the sinks were in. (The kitchen hot and cold supply would leak directly into the top of the furnace vent.) The third hole was covered with a chrome cap and will go away when I remake the countertops, which are far down the list. Next up is the new dinette and hulking bathroom door replacement. I am very excited to pull up the existing dinette and throw it in a dumpster! :bangin::bash::hammer: Wait- maybe I'll use a sledgehammer first and take a little of my AS frustrations out on it!

NorCal Matt 04-29-2017 10:25 AM

Looking good!

ohmman 04-29-2017 10:57 AM

Excellent work.

joekr 04-29-2017 12:47 PM

That sink upgrade is awesome. Do you have the make/model of the sink/faucet/soap pump?

Do you have an overlay to put over it while you travel?

SilverLife 04-29-2017 05:28 PM

Faucets
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by joekr (Post 1942510)
That sink upgrade is awesome. Do you have the make/model of the sink/faucet/soap pump?

Do you have an overlay to put over it while you travel?

The double sink is standard on the 2017 Sport. A rare, intelligent decision by AS! It does come with covers/cutting boards if that is what you mean by overlay. I am sorry but I don't have the model numbers for the faucets or soap dispenser, as they were left over from jobs where customers had changed their minds and I ended up owning someone's discard. I can look through my piles of other faucet boxes and see if any match.

SilverLife 05-01-2017 07:57 PM

OEM Dinette Table
 
2 Attachment(s)
The original table was so unfunctional that we never used or sat at it. Indeed, the clearances and sturdiness were so poor that I considered it useless. The video is of the table at sitting height, locked down on the base, tightened and pins latched on the top and AS considers this usable? Who could eat a meal at a table that rocks over an inch side to side?! The table when pushed down, in the photo, as intended for a sleeping base, is 7/8" higher than the seat bases around it. Who could possibly sleep on a platform with a 7/8" raised hump in the middle of their bed?!! When I first saw this ill-designed contraption in the trailer at the dealer, I said out loud to the salesman; "You've got to be kidding! Is this a joke?!!!" Well apparently not, since they're [I]sold[I] this way.

SilverLife 05-01-2017 08:21 PM

Dinette Framing Rebuild
 
4 Attachment(s)
I am starting to repeat myself by stating that in order to install a new dinette, I had to rebuild the entire seating area structure before starting on the bracket install and table assembly. The pitiful assembly from AS was not going to hold together very long, and certainly not support the new table bracket. The only thing really supporting one's backside from crashing to the floor was one screw and a handful of very short staples attaching a few meager 3/4" x 3/4" ledgers. The outlet wire was rubbing on the sharp skin edge and the outlet was in direct line of an ankle smash under the table; terrible location. The center "support" was flopping around unattached except for one little sheetmetal screw through the 3/64" thick aluminum. Great design AS.

SilverLife 05-01-2017 08:29 PM

New Bracket Base Install
 
4 Attachment(s)
On the other hand....every once in a while, (sadly not really very often anymore), one may discover a truly remarkable, stellar, brilliantly and intelligently designed piece of equipment or hardware. This describes the Lagun table bracket. It is made of heavy anodized aluminum, engineered and fabricated to tight tolerances and top quality fit and finish. The clamping handles are fully adjustable to tighten in any position. The height is easily adjustable in seconds, as well as swivel and pivoting of the tabletop. This bracket in my opinion, is just fantastic.I wish i owned stock in this company. It came with SS hardware and instructions. I relocated the outlet to the top of the base, right behind where one's knee would be while sitting, for the most clearance at the plug end of a laptop charger.

SilverLife 05-01-2017 08:32 PM

Lagun Table Bracket
 
4 Attachment(s)
In addition, this little beauty stores in seconds by clipping onto itself!

SilverLife 05-01-2017 08:38 PM

New Table
 
3 Attachment(s)
I'll bet I spent more time arranging the grain patterns of the walnut today than AS did on the design of the original dinette! I laid out over 300 bd ft of 5/4 walnut to find the best crotch and stump grain swirls that matched. Tomorrow I'll glue up and run it through the widebelt sander to flatten it. May have it done by end of the week. This is the fun part.:clap::happy:

STREMN 05-01-2017 08:46 PM

Amazing job with the grain patterns! It's gonna be beautiful! The rich strong grain of that walnut is such an eye catcher.

Tom

AirstreamCSH 05-02-2017 05:46 AM

This thread is as inspirational as it is sad. You may have a future in building cabinetry for the Sport assuming you kept patterns.

It would be of enormous help to the AS community if someone from the factory acknowledged they read this thread and while not defending themselves, at least gave a nod that they were listening as they laughed on the way to the bank.

waninae39 05-02-2017 08:57 AM

good job can you please show the table folded and unfolded. I want to see what it looks like. BTW leevalley.ca has great hinges for folding tables

SilverLife 05-02-2017 05:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AirstreamCSH (Post 1943859)
This thread is as inspirational as it is sad. You may have a future in building cabinetry for the Sport assuming you kept patterns.

It would be of enormous help to the AS community if someone from the factory acknowledged they read this thread and while not defending themselves, at least gave a nod that they were listening as they laughed on the way to the bank.

Thanks, I guess. It's disappointing to see the level of workmanship present in our 22 at least. I don't​ think my little posts will change anything corporately, but may help someone else make some changes should they decide to do so. I may offer my fabrication services in the future, although I'd have to hire more help and add on to my shop- we stay very busy doing custom work already. And yes- I save all templates, although the CNC can spit them out much faster.

SilverLife 05-02-2017 05:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by waninae39 (Post 1943938)
good job can you please show the table folded and unfolded. I want to see what it looks like. BTW leevalley.ca has great hinges for folding tables

I will certainly show the table with dimensions and details when it's complete. Lee Valley does have some nice hardware but they don't carry a butler table hinge in polished ss- only brass. I typically use Satsune or Hafele.

SilverLife 05-02-2017 06:26 PM

Bench Back Rails
 
2 Attachment(s)
I already had a cap in mind to go on top of the stark white 3/4" bench backs and to replace the plain white laminate shelf by the bed, (which now is perilously close to my head while sleeping). As I was clearing up walnut scraps this morning destined for the kindling pile, I suddenly decided to follow the curve of the bench backs on down to the seat base. (I always feels like I just won a hand of 21 in Vegas, when trash wood scraps turn into something cool.) :brows:

SilverLife 05-02-2017 06:41 PM

Mother of All Squeaks Destroyed
 
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When we did our walk through at the dealer the "tour guide" made a comment about a squeak somewhere. He thought it was one of the acrylic bulkhead panels rubbing in the aluminum clips. I heard it also but my hearing was muffled due to the case of Aluminititus that I had contracted. :blink: In the days following it's trip home, the Squeak grew like a monster on steroids; fingernails on a chalkboard through a megaphone was pleasant sounding compared to this abhorrence. When I ripped apart the sink side to do the backup light wiring, I found it: the worst install of a bracket I've ever come across, and done apparently BEFORE the sink cabinet was in. The words I chose to utter as I attempted to remove it without being able to get ANY tools on it, will have to be :censored:due to the mostly family nature of this forum. I believe the cussing actually helped to get it out.:D

Rpatrick16 05-02-2017 09:49 PM

Your work is very impressive and I like what you're doing. However, my Sport is a 2016 and the workmanship is light-years better than what you've encountered. I wonder if there is something to be said about a "Wednesday build" as in the worse day for an automobile build. Really sad what you've encountered.

ohmman 05-03-2017 01:35 PM

I wish I had your woodworking skills. As you know, I feel very similarly about the quality of construction on our 2017 22' Sport. I'd love to revamp a number of things but really have limited experience in the shop.

I'm very much looking forward to future installations on this thread. They're inspiring.

SilverLife 05-03-2017 05:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rpatrick16 (Post 1944329)
Your work is very impressive and I like what you're doing. However, my Sport is a 2016 and the workmanship is light-years better than what you've encountered. I wonder if there is something to be said about a "Wednesday build" as in the worse day for an automobile build. Really sad what you've encountered.

Thanks. IMO, I think the "Wednesday Build" has stretched out to include the whole year[emoji17]. But hearing of the quality of your Sport encourages me and gives me some hope. I am happy that you own a well built unit- I wouldn't wish my disappointment on anyone. But when I'm finished, we'll have a trailer that's been gone through top to bottom and have something to be proud of. Regardless, we still really like the layout and size of the 22.

SilverLife 05-03-2017 05:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ohmman (Post 1944604)
I wish I had your woodworking skills. As you know, I feel very similarly about the quality of construction on our 2017 22' Sport. I'd love to revamp a number of things but really have limited experience in the shop.

I'm very much looking forward to future installations on this thread. They're inspiring.

I'm glad my discontent has transformed into inspiration [emoji6]. I don't know about my skills being such a big deal; really it's just years of practice. Interestingly, one Christmas when I was about 6 or 7, I got some newfangled plastic mechanical toy. I just had to know how it worked. To my parents horror, I had the thing in twenty pieces minutes after receiving it. Of course I must have mangled some plastic fitting, so it never went back together. But I figured out what made it work, even though I was told that was the end of future gifts of toys for me 😑. Anyway, I guess I've never been afraid to rip apart some shiny new toy! And practicing my "skills" along the way.

rmkrum 05-03-2017 05:47 PM

Look for "the knack" from the Dilbert Show on YouTube. Explains it very well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CmYDgncMhXw

There is a longer version--this is what I got on a fast search...

"Guilty as charged, your honor..."

SilverLife 05-04-2017 12:55 PM

Thanks rmkrum; at least I now know the name of my condition:brows:

SilverLife 05-04-2017 01:12 PM

Table Install
 
4 Attachment(s)
I have completed the table for now. I may change out the hinges for larger heaver ones, as the leaves are pretty heavy. The top's finished thickness is 13/16". With the Lagun bracket it works as designed and has about 10 or 12 different possible combinations of setup for use. I may trim a 1/2" or so off the length but at the folded size of 18" x 30 1/2" it seems about right. Open the two leaves and it's 36" x 30 1/2". Folded, it stores neatly beside the bed.

After overthinking the support for the top in the bed platform position, I have devised a simple system to support it on two 1" square aluminum arms, supported by 4 unobtrusive brackets that won't impact a shin or knee. A ledger around the benches, besides looking ungainly, would have to project out too far to catch the top and extend past the overhang of the bench tops. The aluminum arms will clip into brackets and store in the newly created space beside the curbside tire well, which is now accessible by a lift top lid (the middle bench top, which was screwed down). I will post details when the hardware arrives and I install. For now, I am moving on to other AS and non AS projects.

SilverLife 05-06-2017 04:55 PM

Bench Back Rails
 
4 Attachment(s)
Added walnut rails to the narrow bench backs continuing down to the bench bases, to make them look a little nicer and more functional. On the door side it acts as a handrail of sorts and a place to set keys etc. On the bed side it replaces the white laminate shelf and moves storage for phone, alarm clock up away from head height while laying on the bed. I added a 1'4" x 1/4" rail in curly maple to keep things from sliding off. I'll fill the countersunk screw holes with aluminum plugs when they arrive with a hardware order.

Cannonball 05-06-2017 10:10 PM

Following.

SilverLife 05-07-2017 06:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redvfr02 (Post 1946178)
Just got my Airstream back from my dealer. Installed the truma tankless water heater. Haven't tried it yet. Will update tomorrow. Attachment 284906Attachment 284907

A fine heater, but a thread hijack nevertheless.

ohmman 05-07-2017 10:20 AM

The real question here is what this particular Airstream model is going to be called when it's done. Because it most certainly won't be a 22' Sport anymore. :cool:

SilverLife 05-07-2017 10:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ohmman (Post 1946401)
The real question here is what this particular Airstream model is going to be called when it's done. Because it most certainly won't be a 22' Sport anymore. :cool:

I had considered making an aluminum oval on the CNC that says Custom, but that doesn't seem too original, AND for all of you with significant others, you know that there is always a bit of "collective bargaining" going on. For every item you see done in a post, behind the scenes decisions have been "guided" by a SuBWOVP [emoji16] (Supreme Being with Omniscient Veto Power)! I cannot take all the credit for the numerous details. So the oval crest, IF changed, will be determined in a large part by....... the SuBWOVP.[emoji58]

ohmman 05-07-2017 10:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SilverLife (Post 1946412)
I had considered making an aluminum oval on the CNC that says Custom, but that doesn't seem too original, AND for all of you with significant others, you know that there is always a bit of "collective bargaining" going on. For every item you see done in a post, behind the scenes decisions have been "guided" by a SuBWOVP [emoji16] (Supreme Being with Omniscient Veto Power)! I cannot take all the credit for the numerous details. So the oval crest, IF changed, will be determined in a large part by....... the SuBWOVP.[emoji58]

ha! Well, I'm sure you'll figure out something appropriate. Given the little we know about you from the forum, I could take your member name and say that a "22 Silver" would by no means be a poor choice.

SilverLife 05-08-2017 04:50 PM

No Wasted Space
 
2 Attachment(s)
After extending the bed to 5 feet wide, refabricating and moving the front bed wall forward, I was left with a very small space next to the front dinette wall. Pretty small at 9 1/4" wide x 21" deep, but still usable space not to be wasted in any RV or boat. The SuBWOVP exercised her executive veto powers on a couple of ideas I had, so I "decided" to just fab up a simple cabinet with a small kick space. But I didn't want to loose the outlet on that wall so I did some creative engineering. I also removed all hardware from the little, now useless door, flipped it over to hide the handle holes and screwed it into place. It was never a practical door anyway since I'd rather access the storage under the bench from above.

SilverLife 05-08-2017 05:04 PM

Worlds Smallest Library Cabinet?
 
4 Attachment(s)
I simply plugged one end of 12 ga. SJ cord into the outlet and wired an extension outlet with a LED nite light mounted flush with the cabinet face into the other end. I extended the bed platform over with white laminate which shows when the bed is laying flat. Made a tiny door to fit the new tiny library cabinet. It should hold enough books to keep us reading for quite awhile. I will eventually change out the existing plastic laminate in all the cabinets and drawers to match this scheme. I really like how the walnut looks next to the white cabinet edges, especially with inset, not overlay doors and drawers. Also will change out all hardware to soft close Blum 110 degree hinges and SS pulls.

Grapevine 05-09-2017 02:29 PM

SilverLife - Incredible work on your 22FB!! We also have a '17 22FB and are contemplating the lift kit. I called Airstream and they said they do not recommend it because it can void some of the warranty, but they would not commit to what would be voided. Dexter said their warranty stands with the kit added. Other than chassis, I cannot think of what could be voided with the kit. At this point, it is a risk we are likely willing to take. Since installing your lift kit, have you encountered anything (handling, warranty, etc) that makes you wish you had not added it?

SilverLife 05-09-2017 03:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grapevine (Post 1947451)
SilverLife - Incredible work on your 22FB!! We also have a '17 22FB and are contemplating the lift kit. I called Airstream and they said they do not recommend it because it can void some of the warranty, but they would not commit to what would be voided. Dexter said their warranty stands with the kit added. Other than chassis, I cannot think of what could be voided with the kit. At this point, it is a risk we are likely willing to take. Since installing your lift kit, have you encountered anything (handling, warranty, etc) that makes you wish you had not added it?

Thanks. The lift kit has made a huge difference in clearance. Less worry towing, much less stressful entering and exiting over rough driveways or dips at gas stations, and I think it just sits at a more natural height. I added the kit and then set up a new Reese hitch, so nothing had to be changed at the TV. While under there I painted all the rust and found a major kink in the main LP line. Other than a bigger first step, all good in my book. I'm not concerned about warranty because I'll fix most any issue myself. I talked at length with Dexter also and they told me the same thing- that it's a axle factory part designed for that axle and it should not affect the axle warranty. AS would probably defer any axle issues to Dexter anyway....No different in towing or braking, including a test evasive manuever.[emoji12]

ohmman 05-10-2017 11:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SilverLife (Post 1947473)
Thanks. The lift kit has made a huge difference in clearance. Less worry towing, much less stressful entering and exiting over rough driveways or dips at gas stations, and I think it just sits at a more natural height. I added the kit and then set up a new Reese hitch, so nothing had to be changed at the TV. While under there I painted all the rust and found a major kink in the main LP line. Other than a bigger first step, all good in my book. I'm not concerned about warranty because I'll fix most any issue myself. I talked at length with Dexter also and they told me the same thing- that it's a axle factory part designed for that axle and it should not affect the axle warranty. AS would probably defer any axle issues to Dexter anyway....No different in towing or braking, including a test evasive manuever.[emoji12]

This is a very minor thing for most people, but as someone who is slightly obsessed with efficiency, I'll note that a lift kit that raises the roof will also increase the effective frontal area of the trailer. Drag will increase so MPG will go down (slightly). Just a small something to add to the "cons" column along with the higher step.

waninae39 05-11-2017 04:27 PM

hi

why did you leave the hinges visible on the top. i would have hid them underneath so that two top surface was completely flat

good work on the side area next to the bed. does it make it harder to get into bed or no difference

SilverLife 05-11-2017 05:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by waninae39 (Post 1948510)
hi

why did you leave the hinges visible on the top. i would have hid them underneath so that two top surface was completely flat

good work on the side area next to the bed. does it make it harder to get into bed or no difference

The top is completely flat unfolded. With hinges on bottom, there would be nothing to hold the two leaves up. When folded it fits neatly next to the bench seat to make a level platform for the bed. The reason it folds is to offer many combinations of size to use as a large table, small table, computer work station, etc.

The cabinet next to the bed doesn't make it any more difficult to enter exit- it's on the head end. We also enlarged the bed to 60 x 84. A nice size for two.

SilverLife 05-11-2017 05:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ohmman (Post 1948131)
This is a very minor thing for most people, but as someone who is slightly obsessed with efficiency, I'll note that a lift kit that raises the roof will also increase the effective frontal area of the trailer. Drag will increase so MPG will go down (slightly). Just a small something to add to the "cons" column along with the higher step.

Good point ohmman, for anyone considering the lift. It may or may not be that minor actually; besides a physics calculation in roof wind deflection, I'm not sure how one would figure the difference. I never checked mileage before the lift because the trailer never went anywhere other than to my shop. By my calculations, if I figure a camping tow season at 5000 miles, the difference in one mile per gallon additional fuel consumption comes to roughly $39 (at $3.00/gal). Doesn't seem like much, but what if the difference is 3 or 4 mpg? Then it starts to make a noticible impact on one's fuel bill for the season. Now my curiosity is piqued and I may try to calculate this on paper. Real world, for this Sport can't be done now. I think, it would take a probably impossible driving senario to set this up as before and after conditions, like a test track with computer controlled acceleration and governance. Heck even the weather can alter fuel economy. Woops, I seem to have slipped into a rabbit hole......[emoji15]

Grapevine 05-12-2017 11:54 AM

SilverLife - I should have the lift parts on Monday and I am debating doing the job myself. I have a floor jack, stands, and impact tools. Local RV shop estimated 2 hours @ $115/hr, which seems rather reasonable but I doubt they factored in the gas plumbing. I saw that the propane line runs over the axle and will have to be moved / rerouted to accommodate the lift kit since it has cross braces. Where did you route your piping? And, how long did it take you?

SilverLife 05-12-2017 02:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grapevine (Post 1948826)
SilverLife - I should have the lift parts on Monday and I am debating doing the job myself. I have a floor jack, stands, and impact tools. Local RV shop estimated 2 hours @ $115/hr, which seems rather reasonable but I doubt they factored in the gas plumbing. I saw that the propane line runs over the axle and will have to be moved / rerouted to accommodate the lift kit since it has cross braces. Where did you route your piping? And, how long did it take you?

PM me for details

ohmman 05-14-2017 11:22 PM

SilverLife,

What did you wind up doing in the bathroom next to the toilet? I also removed the cabinet wall that holds the "magazine rack" and I'm tempted to leave it off. However, it seems unfinished. My wife suggested we mount a curtain but I don't like the sound of that. I was considering removing the plastic magazine rack from the back of the stock panel and creating something larger, but that also seems cumbersome. You are clearly creative - have you thought of anything yet?

SilverLife 05-15-2017 06:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ohmman (Post 1949981)
SilverLife,

What did you wind up doing in the bathroom next to the toilet? I also removed the cabinet wall that holds the "magazine rack" and I'm tempted to leave it off. However, it seems unfinished. My wife suggested we mount a curtain but I don't like the sound of that. I was considering removing the plastic magazine rack from the back of the stock panel and creating something larger, but that also seems cumbersome. You are clearly creative - have you thought of anything yet?

I haven't addressed the space because there are numerous other issues all connected to it.
My original intention was to put a shelved cabinet with door next to the sink cab, and open shelves beside the toilet. Now I'm thinking of a bank of drawers next to the sink and a cabinet that houses a built in trash recptical next to the toilet. However, I can't design anything until I know the finished height of the toilet platform, which will change when I install a composting toilet. No decision has been made on the brand of toilet yet. This also determines the fate of the black water tank under the raised platform which I don't like. In addition, the shape of the factory countertop limits my cabinet depth in that space and I also want to change out all counters but haven't decided on the material yet... On it goes.

waninae39 05-15-2017 09:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SilverLife (Post 1945081)
I have completed the table for now. I may change out the hinges for larger heaver ones, as the leaves are pretty heavy. The top's finished thickness is 13/16". With the Lagun bracket it works as designed and has about 10 or 12 different possible combinations of setup for use. I may trim a 1/2" or so off the length but at the folded size of 18" x 30 1/2" it seems about right. Open the two leaves and it's 36" x 30 1/2". Folded, it stores neatly beside the bed.

After overthinking the support for the top in the bed platform position, I have devised a simple system to support it on two 1" square aluminum arms, supported by 4 unobtrusive brackets that won't impact a shin or knee. A ledger around the benches, besides looking ungainly, would have to project out too far to catch the top and extend past the overhang of the bench tops. The aluminum arms will clip into brackets and store in the newly created space beside the curbside tire well, which is now accessible by a lift top lid (the middle bench top, which was screwed down). I will post details when the hardware arrives and I install. For now, I am moving on to other AS and non AS projects.

we put a slim long pop-up garbage can left of the bed , right of the sink. rubber Mack tack shelf liner to keep it from sliding
we also replace the cheap fire extinguisher with a 10Lb unit

our Garmin GPS has a rear camera we want to install , but i don't know where best to poke a hole through the skin for the power signal cable

i have the 3" raiser kit for the axle and will do that some warm summer day

SilverLife 05-16-2017 05:20 PM

Seems like a natural place for a trash recptical- that's the same place we put ours. If you're mounting the Garmin low, the license plate LED is directly behind the sink trap and with one hole is an easy wire fish. Up high seemed way too complex for the time I had allotted for the B/U camera install. I chickened out on that location. As far as the lift kit, without access to air tools, I wouldn't do it. But otherwise it's not really that difficult.

SilverLife 05-16-2017 05:30 PM

5 Attachment(s)
Had a few minutes this afternoon to donate to the Sport. I finished installing the walnut rails, added one flush recessed USB port, and a small 5x12 drawer beside the bed for storage. While I was in drawer mode, I built a large "pots and pans" drawer to go where the microwave was. I'll post a photo of that when completed. Right now it's just a cavernous hole. I could probably turn it into a dog house for my bowser [emoji57] .Attachment 285695Attachment 285696Attachment 285697Attachment 285698Attachment 285699

waninae39 05-16-2017 09:16 PM

1 Attachment(s)
i added a Brahma wheel lock. Used when i disconnect the TV

SilverLife 05-18-2017 05:03 PM

3 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by SilverLife (Post 1950838)
Had a few minutes this afternoon to donate to the Sport. I finished installing the walnut rails, added one flush recessed USB port, and a small 5x12 drawer beside the bed for storage. While I was in drawer mode, I built a large "pots and pans" drawer to go where the microwave was. I'll post a photo of that when completed. Right now it's just a cavernous hole. I could probably turn it into a dog house for my bowser [emoji57] .Attachment 285695Attachment 285696Attachment 285697Attachment 285698Attachment 285699

Installed a 15" deep drawer where the microwave was.Attachment 285819. Obviously now I have to replace the rest of the doors and fronts with walnut. It's not quite as wasteful as it seems- from the factory, one door had a nick on the face and another has a 4" dia bubble under the laminate that bugs the #$@* out of me every time I walk in and glance at it. Once you see it you can't avoid seeing it.[emoji15] Attachment 285824Attachment 285827

SilverLife 05-18-2017 05:07 PM

2 Attachment(s)
I purchased a couple of these for reading & task lighting at Ikea. For $5, I am very impressed. No on/off switch but just plug into a USB port. With metal wire in the neck, it stays in place. Good in the TV as well, for reading.Attachment 285828Attachment 285829

SilverLife 05-20-2017 03:38 PM

4 Attachment(s)
Finished up the dinette platform​. I used 1" aluminum square tube with internal press fit wood on very simple through bolted hangars. Takes seconds to install without tools and is very solid. With the table folded, it is now a totally level and stable platform for additional sleeping, with an open cubby below.
Attachment 285939
The aluminum supports as well as the table bracket store under the back bench which is now accessible with a lift on the seat. I am pleased with how it all worked out and that in a small trailer, after increasing the bed size and removing the factory table, we gained useable storage space.Attachment 285938
Attachment 285940Attachment 285941

RFP 05-25-2017 04:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SilverLife (Post 1945081)
I have completed the table for now. I may change out the hinges for larger heaver ones... <snip >

I am agonizing over how to construct a table similar to yours (which, by the way, is stone-cold gorgeous!).

My table will be (approximately) 15" by 40" with two 'leaves' ... one on each side. The leaves will be on the long dimension, each leaf will be (approx.) 7 1/2" by 40". I am planning on using clear white ash.

What's causing me all the grief is hinge selection. I am familiar with the hinges you used as well as the SOSS 'invisible hinges.' I would prefer to use the SOSS hinges since they install completely in the edge of the table top and leaves, becoming 'invisible' when the table is opened to its full 30" by 40".

YouTube video showing the SOSS #101 hinges: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BLLmvayaEPg&t=220s

With your experience, can you offer any guidance on this?

Thanks,

Rob

SilverLife 05-25-2017 06:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RFP (Post 1954432)
I am agonizing over how to construct a table similar to yours (which, by the way, is stone-cold gorgeous!).

My table will be (approximately) 15" by 40" with two 'leaves' ... one on each side. The leaves will be on the long dimension, each leaf will be (approx.) 7 1/2" by 40". I am planning on using clear white ash.

What's causing me all the grief is hinge selection. I am familiar with the hinges you used as well as the SOSS 'invisible hinges.' I would prefer to use the SOSS hinges since they install completely in the edge of the table top and leaves, becoming 'invisible' when the table is opened to its full 30" by 40".

YouTube video showing the SOSS #101 hinges: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BLLmvayaEPg&t=220s

With your experience, can you offer any guidance on this?

Thanks,

Rob

Rob;
Yes I have installed many sets of soss hinges, from extra large in hidden library doors to tiny ones in jewelry boxes. Firstly, ash is a dense fairly heavy wood, depending on species, moisture content and final thickness. You will need to have a fairly close weight of the table when finished, at hopefully less than 20% kiln dried. Given the weight, the hinges are sized accordingly. You want to select the SMALLEST size hinge to handle the weight. Bigger isn't better here because it will mean your table thickness will increase to accommodate the larger hinge and the mortises will have to be deeper and wider which leaves less material on the side of the mortise to support the hinge, which leads to split out. Secondly, the soss may have clearance issues when open folding and may not close fold to 180 degrees; always mortise test parts/leaves in the same material with the same thickness. Thirdly, if the MFG offers a mortising template, def get one. To work smoothly without binding, the soss needs to have perfectly aligned, mortises x4 done exactly perpendicular to their faces respectfully. A tip: if I were using soss, I would layout, mark and mortise all 4 on the edges BEFORE cutting the table to finished size. Finally, because there is no "stop" built in to a soss, you may end up with considerable leaf droop when table is in the open position. Def cut samples before committing to the ash to avoid disappointment later. Personally, I like the soss but it wouldn't be my first choice in a drop leaf table. Good luck.

RFP 05-25-2017 07:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SilverLife (Post 1954458)
Rob;
Yes I have installed many sets of soss hinges, from extra large in hidden library doors to tiny ones in jewelry boxes. Firstly, ash is a dense fairly heavy wood, depending on species, moisture content and final thickness. You will need to have a fairly close weight of the table when finished, at hopefully less than 20% kiln dried. Given the weight, the hinges are sized accordingly. You want to select the SMALLEST size hinge to handle the weight. < snip >

Thanks so much for your guidance and insight!

I should have done a better job of describing the material(s) that I'm thinking of using for the table top. If I eventually do this, I'll almost certainly use Baltic birch for the table top with the 'mounting edge' made from ash; 3/4" X 3/4". I'll join the edge to the table top with biscuits or a tongue and groove joint that I'll make on the router table. That way I get the screw holding power of ash without having the weight of an "all ash" table.

I've build many projects using that very approach, but was never concerned about weight.... so, you may have a [much] better suggestion, and I'm certainly open to that.

Rob

SilverLife 07-09-2017 07:59 PM

3 Attachment(s)
Attachment 289092Attachment 289093Attachment 289094
Using 8'6" Eureka aluminum poles to secure the awning in the down position and to attach an additional 11'6" x 9' fly to. The bungee snugs over the top of the pole to hold down the tarp and the hook end locks the pole cam in the up position.

waninae39 07-09-2017 08:10 PM

does anyone have plans/details for addressing the wasted space in the 22FB bathroom?

Just to the right of the sink is a small opening. it does not hold much

there is a ton of space under the counter and to the right of the sink, My wife wants me to add more space. So far i have added the IKEA mirror to the wall next to the battery/grey/black level monitor.

I would like to build a small cabinet to the right of the toilet , right of the sink and under the counter

Also, how do you remove the counter?

SilverHouseDreams 08-24-2017 05:38 PM

I just wanted to say thanks for sharing all of this great info, you also saved me some money as the fact that you took a brand new AS and found so many things that needed correcting pushed us to look for a used model. We will likely apply some of your changes, or ones influenced by yours, to our 2011 22FB.

The dinette pedestal has got to be one of the worst things ever "designed", it is wholly inadequate. The two most significant flaws are, as you noted, that you sleep with a "hump" in the middle of the bed...and the other is that the pedestal itself is garbage.

In our case I couldn't get the pedestal to lower more than 1 segment (the upper one), it wouldn't budge at all...I tried and tried, even with all of my body weight it wouldn't move. I forced the thing apart and found that they use these tiny little screws on the bottom of the collapsing segments to keep them from over-extending and falling apart. Well somewhere in the last 7 years one of those screws loosened, as AS obviously knows nothing about thread lock or adequate thread bite (as you noted on your tail light install)...and the screw had embedded itself into the aluminum tube. The problem had obviously progressed for a while was there was shavings of the aluminum tube and a nice "trail" about 1/16" deep carved into it before the screw head deformed enough that it just bonded and wouldn't move.

I find it amazing that this dinette is still put into trailers, our family had a SOB TT and overhead camper that were built in the 70's and I swear they had a better dinette conversion than brand new AS. I could possibly overlook the pedestal itself if the bed was remotely useable, but that nearly 1" hump is inexcusable and will be one of the first modifications I have to seek on the trailer (other than electrical upgrades that are already in progress).

Boxite 08-26-2017 11:40 AM

We made our dinette into a permanent bed and to rid ourselves of the "hump" we used the gray/rubber/foam soft-floor-mats sold by Harbor Freight for walkways. They are cheap, 1/2" and interlocking. Doubling them (one on top of the other) brought the lower seating surface up to par with the table top. We put our mattress (ordered from foambymail.com ) on top of that and enjoy a sweet slumber now.

waninae39 08-28-2017 11:18 PM

led added under the seats
 
i added these LEDS lights

now we can see under the seats

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f295...ea-172034.html

waninae39 08-28-2017 11:27 PM

you can get the hinges form Lee valley
http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware...=3,41241,62129

waninae39 08-29-2017 09:16 PM

replaced some AS cheap outlet with outlets with 2 USB
 
2 Attachment(s)
i have replaced some out the 115 15V outlets with "power2U" outlets.

they hahe
2x 115V 15A
plus
2x USB 2A

they have a door in-front of the USB. when its closed, the outlet used ZERO power ( for the USB)
only when the door is open, it does give usb power

this is want to looks like under the table in the kitchen area on our as 22FB

i added it when i added the LED lights to the LEFt or RIGHT area under the seats

SilverHouseDreams 08-29-2017 10:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by waninae39 (Post 2001277)
i have replaced some out the 115 15V outlets with "power2U" outlets.



they hahe

2x 115V 15A

plus

2x USB 2A



they have a door in-front of the USB. when its closed, the outlet used ZERO power ( for the USB)

only when the door is open, it does give usb power



this is want to looks like under the table in the kitchen area on our as 22FB



i added it when i added the LED lights to the LEFt or RIGHT area under the seats


The LED storage lights are a great touch.

I just got a few outlets with USB ports too, but also to get tamper resistant outlets to make it a bit more child proof. Did you install outlet boxes too?

waninae39 08-30-2017 06:40 AM

yes i did add then.
not shown , one is behind the USB outlet and powers the Left and right storage area LED

this weekend i will add LED light to the exterior storage box

another deep dark location. the AS installed single led on the ext wall is neither strong enough nor sufficient

ohmman 08-31-2017 10:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by waninae39 (Post 2001367)
yes i did add then.
not shown , one is behind the USB outlet and powers the Left and right storage area LED

this weekend i will add LED light to the exterior storage box

another deep dark location. the AS installed single led on the ext wall is neither strong enough nor sufficient

There is a switched light in the exterior storage space on my 2017. It's not obvious, but it's in there.

The step light, I agree, is meager.

waninae39 08-31-2017 10:51 AM

I will be adding LED strip light to the roof of that area There is a removable panel under the bed. I will try to connect that to the existing meager light in that area. that way I keep that light and its switch will control the "roof light". There is a wall to the right with a pass thru. one of the LED panel will light up this area

Boxite 09-01-2017 09:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ohmman (Post 2001897)
There is a switched light in the exterior storage space on my 2017. It's not obvious, but it's in there.

The step light, I agree, is meager.

I replaced the silly little step light with an ordinary License plate light fixture. MUCH BETTER!
I also added a "scare light" above the step light at eyelevel. It is on the same supply circuit but has a dedicated switch so that if the step light is illuminated, an additional switch turns on the scare light. Simple and very useful.

SilverHouseDreams 09-02-2017 12:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boxite (Post 2002765)
I replaced the silly little step light with an ordinary License plate light fixture. MUCH BETTER!

I also added a "scare light" above the step light at eyelevel. It is on the same supply circuit but has a dedicated switch so that if the step light is illuminated, an additional switch turns on the scare light. Simple and very useful.



Would you share a photo of these? Trying to figure out what to do about that sad little light myself.

waninae39 09-02-2017 03:00 PM

lagum table added to replace sliding factory mode
 
see here for the lagum table

easily to modify with no tools

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f295...ml#post2003042

waninae39 09-02-2017 03:05 PM

add LED trips the external 22FB storage area

now we can see

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f295...ml#post2003047

Boxite 09-02-2017 04:05 PM

4 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Xipper (Post 2002805)
Would you share a photo of these? Trying to figure out what to do about that sad little light myself.

Click on an image below to enlarge,...then you can "scroll" thru them all in a more viewable format.


The LED license plate lite brand was "Blazer" and bought at Tractor Supply for about $6. The RV wall switch from an RV outlet for $12, mounted it onto a removeable panel intended to service the shower faucet. I used that panel because it was easy to get to and directly behind where I mounted the scare light. I routed the wire by removing the original step light and running wire up inside the wall, into the interior space to get around a bulkhead, and then to the switch, which supplies power to the scare light from the step light. In other words, if the step light is ON...the scare light switch has power to it, if I wish to turn on the scare light. (We might leave the trailer for a walk at night and the original step light was poorly designed as it blinded you instead of directing light down onto the step. The little Blazer light only shines downward onto the step.)
The "scare light" was $4 from etrailer (an ordinary 4" fixture which I placed aluminum-foil tape inside for increased reflectivity) and the chrome surround also from etrailer, about $5. (I originally had installed an all-LED light fixture but didn't like it as it was too narrow-beam. In this ordinary fixture I used an ordinary incandescent GE-1156 backup lamp because it gave more generalized lighting to the entire area outside the trailer.)
I wired it with 14 ga stranded wire, and since it's on the original step light circuit no further fusing was required.

surgpsych 09-02-2017 10:09 PM

Love this mod! When you have the chance, could you post a night shot with bother the step light AND scare light on? Also, thanks for listing the wire gauge and components. Big help! Keep em comin!

Boxite 09-03-2017 03:04 AM

I doubt a photo would reveal the true usefulness of the mod. Suffice it to say that it's impressively useful and illuminates the step completely... and the scare light illuminates the entire yard out beside the AS.

waninae39 09-04-2017 11:00 AM

new drawer added to as 22FB bedroom area
 
i added a new drawer to the 2017 AS sport 22FB bedroom area

it uses BLUM full extension drawer slide system
you need a good wood workshop, be proficient in cabinet making and know how to design and build with BLUM h/w to do this job.

it took about 2 days after work to cut build and install this drawer

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f295...ml#post2003865

roadkill367 01-01-2018 04:58 PM

Curved rail section
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by SilverLife (Post 1946153)
Added walnut rails to the narrow bench backs continuing down to the bench bases, to make them look a little nicer and more functional. On the door side it acts as a handrail of sorts and a place to set keys etc. On the bed side it replaces the white laminate shelf and moves storage for phone, alarm clock up away from head height while laying on the bed. I added a 1'4" x 1/4" rail in curly maple to keep things from sliding off. I'll fill the countersunk screw holes with aluminum plugs when they arrive with a hardware order.

Hello, Silverlife

I'm interested in how you made the curved section of the handrail. Any tips would be really appreciated.

Munimula2017 03-01-2018 11:57 AM

Hey SilverLIfe:

couple of questions about your dinette project:

for the ledger on the exterior wall, did you screw into the aluminum or rivet it?

did you need to add bracing to the interior of the dinette storage area to support your square aluminum support struts?

did you cut the vertical piece that covered the old receptacle hole from the discarded center support?

did you have any issues with the offset of the laguna mount and the cushions?

thanks


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