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-   -   Now It Starts... Rebuild of Audrey (http://www.airforums.com/forums/f115/now-it-starts-rebuild-of-audrey-160491.html)

islandtrader 12-14-2016 08:13 AM

Now It Starts... Rebuild of Audrey
 
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This will be my "official" :D thread on my rebuild of the 1956 Caravanner.
I have had a few posts but now since the AS is home I feel as I should keep everything in one area.

Few facts...I bought the AS from the airstreamguy back in September. Asked him to put on led side lights, make sure axle and tires where good, and anything else that needed to be done before I come back in Dec. and tow it 1500 miles home.
That mission was accomplished with out a problem.

Now that Audrey is home my plans are to do a restoration...as needed. Meaning the shell will not come off, but most likely everything else will be addressed as the tear down begins.

1. Gut the inside ...nothing is worth saving...imho. (stove will be sold)
2. Remove the floor and see how the frame looks and then start making the list on the white board.

Any suggestions are always appreciated. I have read or scanned a lot of the rebuild threads, and already all I can say is "wow" and thanks. After this long post I will try to keep up with pictures and questions. However since this has been done many time b4 I will try not to bore anyone. :brows:

Some pictures...I just can not believe how people torture these old AS.
Home and tucked away. How not to wire. Drawer fix...haha
Is this bath set up original??

jjmtb 12-29-2016 01:30 PM

Nice canvas to start working and that garage space is awesome. No space issues there. Keep us updated. Not sure how you are going to inspect the frame without taking the shell off. Maybe you could cut out sections and splice back in but the way these things are built if you want to work the frame you have to pull the shell off.

Bobpuvel 01-04-2017 07:09 AM

I plan to remove many original interior pieces (dinette, couch, wardrobes, bathroom) on my 1984 excella. Message me if you want any of that for your stream!

islandtrader 01-22-2017 08:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jjmtb (Post 1892861)
Not sure how you are going to inspect the frame without taking the shell off. Maybe you could cut out sections and splice back in but the way these things are built if you want to work the frame you have to pull the shell off.

Not sure I understand the question...I plan on removing the floor and the belly pan. By doing this won't the frame be visible for inspection.

islandtrader 01-23-2017 09:08 AM

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Making a little progress...need to get all the interior panels off and then get down to the floor.

The panels would not be so hard to remove if there wasn't 100 coats of paint on the rivets...haha

The floor looks like original...than a redo of 1/2 inch ply and then another redo with 3/8 inch ply and then some fake sticky wood strips ugh.

While removing most of the floor and cabinets the trailer must of decompressed the springs by at least a inch. I had to go out and crank up the jack stabilizers a couple of times...:lol:




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islandtrader 02-12-2017 05:00 PM

Cross Member
 
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Is this a stock piece or is it an add on...it was supporting a plastic tank that had no bottom (go figure).

islandtrader 03-11-2017 03:34 PM

Change of plans!
 
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How does that go again? The best laid plans of mice and men...:p

I quote this from another member;
I think every shell-off started off as a superficial change of upholstery fabrics and flooring. Like they say--a vintage Airstream is like an onion--the more layers you peel off, the more you cry....

My original intent was to strip out the inside to the bare bones...leave the shell on and start from there. The short story is that after pulling the floor out...or should I say letting the floor fall out, the shell was sitting only on the outriggers.

So all I had holding it to the frame was the little L brackets . The front plate was rusted through so there was no connection there.

Also the A frame was in sad shape and welded up by the PO (and not very good).

So as they say "the full monty is here" :brows:

In reality I think this is a good thing since it will give me a chance to address everything and do it right.

Below are a few pictures that show where I am at now. In the next few days the shell will be separated from the frame.


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islandtrader 03-25-2017 08:59 AM

Shell off and progress
 
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Just updating as I go along. Not much to say except the shell lifted off pretty easy and now the frame is off to the welder.

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islandtrader 04-14-2017 08:30 AM

Updates
 
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Since pulling the shell off the frame has gone to the welder...the frame was in good shape, with the exception of the rear cross beam.Replaced 6 out riggers.
The A frame up front showed a jackknife sometime in its past. That got cut out and replaced.

As soon as the welder is done, then the trailer goes to the "trailer shop" and gets a new axle (torsion) .

In the meantime I have been removing windows and doors to re-hab and re seal them...this is a big PIA.

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DDickey 04-14-2017 09:15 AM

Looking Good
 
Windows are incredibly time consuming. So. Much. Work. It's rewarding to re-install them and make them work again. My window frames were put together with tubular rivets, but I didn't want to buy the tool for $120, so I used buck rivets which worked just fine. It's not 'correct' but my trailer is a renovation, not a restoration, so I'm ok with deviations like this.

I still don't know why your door has two lock sets

islandtrader 04-15-2017 10:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DDickey (Post 1936199)
Windows are incredibly time consuming. So. Much. Work. It's rewarding to re-install them and make them work again. My window frames were put together with tubular rivets, but I didn't want to buy the tool for $120, so I used buck rivets which worked just fine. It's not 'correct' but my trailer is a renovation, not a restoration, so I'm ok with deviations like this.

I still don't know why your door has two lock sets

I'm with you on the windows...I just ordered the gaskets and screens, so I will have those when installing.

The difference a year makes??? All my windows are bucked in, and you are right about the lockset.

I like your reasoning...renovation not restoration! My feelings all the way. :)

islandtrader 04-23-2017 09:38 AM

Window Rehabbing
 
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While waiting for the frame to get done...I thought I would tackle the windows...trying to do one at a time. What a chore. :p
As soon as the gasket material shows up then time to put them in. Yes!

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Venturewest 04-27-2017 07:54 AM

Islandtrader, thanks for creating this thread. I have looked at many shell-off threads, and it seems that your shell and shell removal are the most similar to what I expect mine to be. Can you please tell me what exactly you had to unfasten to free the shell? I see that your c channel appears to be left in place and that is what I plan to do. Did you just have to remove all the elevator bolts and the rivets to the belly pan?

I am going to have to do a shell-on floor replacement. Do you think that if I just remove all the elevator bolts that I would be able to lift the shell a 1/2" or 1" even with the banana peels and belly pan still attached?

Did you run into any elevator bolts that weren't actually through your outriggers? It seems that Airstream missed several of the outriggers on mine! I will post some pics if anyone wants to see.

Thanks

islandtrader 04-29-2017 08:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Venturewest (Post 1941619)
Islandtrader, thanks for creating this thread. I have looked at many shell-off threads, and it seems that your shell and shell removal are the most similar to what I expect mine to be. Can you please tell me what exactly you had to unfasten to free the shell? I see that your c channel appears to be left in place and that is what I plan to do. Did you just have to remove all the elevator bolts and the rivets to the belly pan?

I am going to have to do a shell-on floor replacement. Do you think that if I just remove all the elevator bolts that I would be able to lift the shell a 1/2" or 1" even with the banana peels and belly pan still attached?

Did you run into any elevator bolts that weren't actually through your outriggers? It seems that Airstream missed several of the outriggers on mine! I will post some pics if anyone wants to see.

Thanks

I will try and answer the above
Can you please tell me what exactly you had to unfasten to free the shell?
The original floor was so bad that literally all I did was cut it out and pull it away from the c channel. Then I cut the belly pan off near end of the frame. Leaving it attached to the shell (I plan on installing a new pan) so this was really a hack job just to get the old stuff off.
You can not leave the c channel on if you want to save your belly pan. I am making all new c channels since mine were pretty well shot.

My airstream had L brackets that were attached to outriggers with the elevator bolts. I was missing one outrigger also. The final outcome was I felt it would be easier faster and better to just pull the shell and start from the beginning .
A lot of this stuff is hard to imagine until you just jump in.
If you need any questions answered in detail, just PM me your phone number and a good time to talk and I will be more than happy to go into more detail.

islandtrader 05-15-2017 08:32 PM

Frame is back.
 
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My frame was a little ruff when I finally took the shell off. The front A had seen a jackknife sometime in its life. The rear cross member was rusted out, and a few of the outriggers were also shot. One from a blow out (which I think caused the jackknife ) and one was just plain old forgotten at airstream during production.

When I got the frame back, it then went over to the trailer place and got a new torsion axle rated at #5500. It was almost as cheap as buying new electrical brakes for the old leaf spring axel. When I got it home again I wire brushed and ground off all the major rust...then 2 coats of Por 15. The front A then was coated with some Eastwood silver epoxy encapsulator paint. Now I need to get the wood floor cut and then epoxy that as well.

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islandtrader 05-19-2017 08:04 AM

Trial Fit
 
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The heat has returned to SW FLA. So I went to my favorite store(HD) today and bought a new fan and replace one of my drills that wore out.

This weekend I am going to try a trial fit of the shell to the sub floor.
The reason for this was that I did not have a pattern for the floor, so I used a handy tool from Eastwood to copy the curve on the corners. If this works then I will remove the shell and then start on the interior planning of where I want the toilet and etc. Then while waiting for the tanks I can start finding the leaks and address those issues before putting the floor back in.
Oh what fun we are having...

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The new brushless drill is a torque monster and the impact makes setting things real easy.

Airspry 05-20-2017 02:48 PM

Following closely behind you
 
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Hi Island Trader,

Yes, thank you for all of the details you are sharing. This is our first trailer and our first renovation. It is possible we are in over our heads. :lol:

Though ours says it is a Flying Cloud, it looks exactly like yours. We have just pulled up the floor. It has rust that looks very much like yours. Our plan was to do renovation with the shell on. That is looking less likely.

I have a couple of questions I hope you can answer. The first is was the door frame in good shape, or did you replace it? A previous owner of our trailer (we have to name her,) bent the inside rim back and it is a mess. I will attach a picture. The second is about the windows. Do you know which handles are appropriate. All of the handles on our side windows are gone, the front has part of a handle and the back has no handle left.

I look forward to following in your footsteps.

islandtrader 05-21-2017 07:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Airspry (Post 1952423)
Hi Island Trader,

Yes, thank you for all of the details you are sharing. This is our first trailer and our first renovation. It is possible we are in over our heads. :lol:

Though ours says it is a Flying Cloud, it looks exactly like yours. We have just pulled up the floor. It has rust that looks very much like yours. Our plan was to do renovation with the shell on. That is looking less likely.

I have a couple of questions I hope you can answer. The first is was the door frame in good shape, or did you replace it? A previous owner of our trailer (we have to name her,) bent the inside rim back and it is a mess. I will attach a picture. The second is about the windows. Do you know which handles are appropriate. All of the handles on our side windows are gone, the front has part of a handle and the back has no handle left.

I look forward to following in your footsteps.

A couple of thoughts...first I looked at your thread.Then I looked at the airstream archives...(https://www.airstream.com/wp-content...e5870d0806.pdf)

I really don't think your trailer is a flying cloud. That being said let me try and answer some of your questions..

My door frame was in good shape. I would hammer and dolly, patch and repair your door frame. It may take some work but from the one picture it looks like it can be saved.

I took out all my window and rebuilt them. The window regulators were all replaced. You can get handles and parts for VTS..

This is the link for some window parts.
http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/category-s/27.htm

I will check out your thread again and try to answer any other things you post.

Let me know if there is anything else and I will try to shed some light.:brows:

islandtrader 05-22-2017 08:19 AM

Trial Fit Part 2
 
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Sunday was the day...I hooked the frame up to the golf cart, had my wife working the chain hoist and put the shell on the frame. It really went on easy. The hard part was trying to figure out how it sat originally. Good thing I had some pictures. . We are changing it from the original layout , but not greatly. Side note: When ordering the next torsion axle I had chose the taller option that raises the height by 3 inches or so. I can see it now, and it does give you more clearance underneath. Thats a good thing.

Next step is to mark the c channels door placement and then I will remove the shell again and start on the plumbing and tanks. When that is done then on to the belly pans. I would like to get that done before we take off for our summer break in August.

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The bottom of the wood is epoxy coated.

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I doubt if the cart would pull a loaded trailer

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Happy Hour :D

islandtrader 06-10-2017 02:43 PM

Layout
 
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While waiting to get my flight back home I had time to sketch a preliminary drawing of how I (we envision) the layout. I know this is rough and there will be many oops or how can I do that...

This was our short list...
  • 2 single beds
  • drop down dinette to convert to a bed
  • wet shower/toilet/vanity
  • 3 foot longer trailer...haha

In order to get this all in the space allotted I will have to make the beds stacked. One going left to right and the other front to back. I thought of bunks, but not enough height to do it right. The stacking should work since I can raise one just high enough to let the other slide underneath and actually create more hiding space.

Any comments would be welcomed if you see a major design flaw that I have not addressed.

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islandtrader 06-16-2017 09:15 PM

Big score
 
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I always watch Craigslist....today was a good day. I bought new 2 custom single mattresses that are $1000.00. Never used for $300. Exactly what I was wanting. It's great to find things way b4 you need them 😎
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islandtrader 06-20-2017 08:39 PM

Do you see it...
 
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Well the layout of bath and bed's is now finalized. Now I can order the grey and black water tanks.

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utahredrock 06-25-2017 09:40 AM

Good stuff! Keep it coming.

Monza 06-28-2017 08:20 AM

Nice work, frame and sub floor looks good.

DDickey 06-28-2017 11:00 AM

Black Tank
 
Hey Islandtrader, here's a link to the tank I used for black. Since the tank isn't sloped, and since it's only 4" deep, I installed a 1/2" fitting on the side of the tank to connect fresh water to flush it. I aimed the port directly at the toilet fitting in case the solids want to pile up under the toilet. The port is connected to a readily accessible valve next to the water heater, and it can be easily flushed any time. I tested it yesterday and I think it's going to work well. Here's the link:

https://www.tank-mart.com/rv-marine-...-tank-783.html

DDickey 07-10-2017 06:20 PM

Link to the escape hatch handles and catches
 
Hey islandtrader,

Here's a link to the Hehr handles and catches for the escape hatch on VTS

http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/...-p/vts-322.htm

islandtrader 09-13-2017 09:25 AM

Dodged the Bullet!
 
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Living in southwest florida and on a barrier island at times it can be perilous. We normally leave in August and come back early October. This is the best time to see the rest of the U.S. when our weather sucks. We always button up the house for hurricane season. Not to bore anyone with the facts, but we were only 50 miles from the eye, and were in the bullseye until it turned and hit Marco.

The Airstream was tied down but this picture should tell you something. :lol:

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Aerowood 09-13-2017 01:54 PM

Any damage or just moved over a bit.

islandtrader 09-13-2017 03:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aerowood (Post 2008141)
Any damage or just moved over a bit.

Just moved over a wee bit...a friend of mine just pushed back to the original position. As you can see it could not go any farther and would not of fell off the frame as the chain hoist was holding it from the top.

DDickey 09-13-2017 08:09 PM

Wowwwwww
 
Seems like you did indeed dodge a bullet

islandtrader 10-17-2017 07:17 AM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by islandtrader (Post 2008027)
Living in southwest florida and on a barrier island at times it can be perilous. We normally leave in August and come back early October. This is the best time to see the rest of the U.S. when our weather sucks. We always button up the house for hurricane season. Not to bore anyone with the facts, but we were only 50 miles from the eye, and were in the bullseye until it turned and hit Marco.

The Airstream was tied down but this picture should tell you something. :lol:

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Now that I am back home I had a chance to look at the Airstream and assess any damage. None to speak off.:D However what is really interesting is how the wind of the hurricane does change direction once it passes over your area.

The picture above shows the shell being blown to the east...meaning wind off the gulf...Now picture number two shows some minor damage to the eye brow on the west side of the trailer. Meaning the trailer was first blown west, then east. Oh well I'm really happy that this was the extent of the damage.

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islandtrader 10-23-2017 07:36 PM

Done...
 
Well I think I am completely done taking everything off the A/S...with the exception of an eyebrow or two. Now hopefully the ďmoreĒ fun will start by doing construction 🔨 instead of de-construction :brows: I wonder if bucking all those rivits in will get as boring as taking them out.LOL

DDickey 11-11-2017 07:22 AM

Tanks
 
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Hey islantrader,

I realized last night that I told you something a little different than what I ended up doing with my tanks. I have three waste tanks, two grays tied together in the frame with a black tank in the middle of them. Originally, the aft gray tank was going to handle the shower and the sink, but I decided to rearrange my bathroom and now the aft tank only handles the shower (the pic omits the fore gray tank), and the fore gray tank will handle the kitchen sink and the lavatory. The key to making it all work was to raise the bathroom floor 3" over the frame.

islandtrader 11-12-2017 10:12 AM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by DDickey (Post 2033237)
Hey islantrader,

I realized last night that I told you something a little different than what I ended up doing with my tanks. I have three waste tanks, two grays tied together in the frame with a black tank in the middle of them. Originally, the aft gray tank was going to handle the shower and the sink, but I decided to rearrange my bathroom and now the aft tank only handles the shower (the pic omits the fore gray tank), and the fore gray tank will handle the kitchen sink and the lavatory. The key to making it all work was to raise the bathroom floor 3" over the frame.

Thanks...this is what I am doing, a little like yours, but in different configurations

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islandtrader 11-15-2017 09:12 PM

Fabrication and repair
 
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Today I needed to repair some c channels that were bent up for god knows what reason.
I cut out the destroyed ones, and then got my brake and got to work. After making the new channel I sistered them in,and now Iím all set to move on to the next repair :lol:
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islandtrader 11-27-2017 11:03 AM

I wonder why?
 
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While up north for the thanksgiving holiday I was looking at a few of my b4 AS photos and my wife and I always wondered why Airstream never continued the bottom trim piece all the way to the wheel wells...so I did a quick touch up to see what it would look like.

We like the look...

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islandtrader 12-09-2017 08:43 AM

Low Rider !
 
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Today was the day to pull the frame out from under the AS. My tanks (grey and black)came in, so now it is off to the welder to have him put in some brackets to hold them and also do a few other things that I did not notice the last time I took it there.

I am lucky that I can lift the AS on and off by myself, and that really has been great especially trying to get everything to fit. Now with the body on rollers, it will be easy to work on the top and start chasing down leaks...

I love this slammed look....goes back to my hot rod days....:lol:

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The golf cart makes pulling the frame easy.

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The two grey tanks in position.
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steinVT 01-04-2018 06:21 AM

Lifting the Shell
 
Thanks for taking the time to make these posts. I am about seven months behind you in restoring my 1956 Safari. Unlike you I live in Vermont were it is now 15 degrees, up from -10F a couple of days ago. Prior to the cold weather we got our trailer stripped and the floor removed. This coming spring we will be separating it from the frame because I have exactly the same frame problems you did.

A couple of questions about your lifting mechanism:
1. On early photos you appeared to have tied the two sides of the trailer together with 2x4"'s ? screwed into the ribs? There seemed to be a bunch of them with some upward angled braces as well. In later photos they seem to be gone, not needed?

2. One one picture it looks like you are pulling against a 5/4" x 6" x 12'? board against the roof with your chain hoist. I am assuming that was through the center vent panel?

When we get these trailers done we should make a swap. You come up here in the summer and we'll visit you in the winter.:brows:

Thanks,
Mark

islandtrader 01-05-2018 08:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by steinVT (Post 2051548)

A couple of questions about your lifting mechanism:
1. On early photos you appeared to have tied the two sides of the trailer together with 2x4"'s ? screwed into the ribs? There seemed to be a bunch of them with some upward angled braces as well. In later photos they seem to be gone, not needed?

2. One one picture it looks like you are pulling against a 5/4" x 6" x 12'? board against the roof with your chain hoist. I am assuming that was through the center vent panel?

When we get these trailers done we should make a swap. You come up here in the summer and we'll visit you in the winter.:brows:

Thanks,
Mark

Thanks,
#1...you are correct, after crawling around I saw that I only needed 2. I screwed the 2x4 into the ribs flush to where the floor would be. That way every time I need to check the fit they will not get in the way.

#2...Yes pulling through the center...I was lucky to have the beam...with a chain hoist I can raise and lower anytime and check the fit...

#3...anything is possible...:D

islandtrader 01-07-2018 09:40 AM

New Wheel Wells
 
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For the life of me I can not understand why AS in building an all Aluminum trailer put in galvanized wheel wells. Mine were shot...one from rusting out and the other from a blow out.

I found a HVAC shop that made some up for me. I had them done in Aluminum. The shop used what they build pans out of here in florida in the salt air on the gulf. It is heavier than the outside skins by a gauge or 2. Plus they are coated to keep them from corroding. I actually put paint stripper on the coating and it did not come off. So I think these will last for some time...

Blow out...

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Old and New

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New

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Bubba L 01-07-2018 10:29 AM

The wheel wells look great. Wished I would have thought of that. My galvanized ones were in decent shape so I sanded them down and used Por 15. I hope they hold up. Keep up the great work and the informative posts. Good luck, Bubba

islandtrader 01-13-2018 08:09 AM

1 step back 2 forward
 
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Just to rehash...last spring I took the frame in for repair. New A up front, some patches and out riggers. Very happy with the work. Brought it home, cleaned it up and then used POR15 silver. Since the frame was not to see UV no top coat was applied over it. Fast forward the por15 did not hold up very well rust is showing thru, and boy did it yellow even though it was not in the sun.

Back to the welder to install straps for the grey and black water tanks. Brought it home pressure washed it and some of the por15 peeled right off. Por15 does not go over rust oleum primer well. No big deal only a days worth of quick sand an two cans of Eastwood rust aerosol encapsulator product (which i like better). And the trailer looks good again. Now I can start on the c channel and belly pan.

Oh yes I decided to put in a "hidden" false floor...to store things that should not be seen by every one...Attachment 302328

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How the black water tank sits...

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islandtrader 01-22-2018 08:06 AM

Little by little
 
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I am going to call this lesson learned. First of all I am sure happy to have the set up I have. I can pull or put the shell on the frame anytime I need to check the fit. For me this has been a godsend. For some reason I did not cut the floor around the wheel wells correctly and the wheel well was not fitting. I know why that happened. So now I made the correction. I also cut in the holes for the waste tanks, and used my 2 new Christmas presents. I LOVE new tools...:lol:

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islandtrader 01-25-2018 04:42 PM

Really?
 
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Ok I am going to call this lesson learned #2...never ASSUME anything on a vintage airstream is a mirror image if there are 2 of them...

I posted pictures of my new wheel wells... I only had one wheel well to work with because the street side one was demolished in a blow out. The curbside looked just like the the other side...oh how wrong I was. The picture shows how much difference there is between the two. I have some trimming to do. You would think they were mirror images, but they are not...does someone want to chime in and hazard a guess.

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Bubba L 01-25-2018 05:28 PM

My wheel wells were off, but not that far. Thereís no telling why thereís such a difference. I guess as long as you put everything back and it works, thatís a plus. Decades from now when the next owner gets it, heíll wonder the same. Also, I have enough lessons learned I could write a book. I donít keep count, just try not to make the same mistake three times. Everything is looking great. Keep up the good work. Bubba

Rocinante 01-25-2018 06:36 PM

This trailer is a "hand-crafted beauty," that's why. ;) Great job, much better to have too much aluminum than not enough.

rmkrum 01-25-2018 06:58 PM

It's a great way to avoid the, "I trimmed this thing THREE times and its STILL too darn small..." syndrome.

Don't ask me why I know this one entirely too well.....

islandtrader 01-29-2018 04:36 PM

Shame on me!
 
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Boy this is really dumb...the worst part is I really did not even know that I did it :mad: I was trimming out my vent hole that was a little to small and I did not even feel the extra board.
Oh well at least the fix was easy...:brows:

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DDickey 01-30-2018 04:21 PM

Under Floor Plumbing
 
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Hey Islandtrader, this is what's going on underneath the floor of my bathroom. Raising the floor with 3 layers of 3/4" plywood over the 3/4" subfloor is the key to making it work. It all just barely fits

islandtrader 01-31-2018 07:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DDickey (Post 2061351)
Hey Islandtrader, this is what's going on underneath the floor of my bathroom. Raising the floor with 3 layers of 3/4" plywood over the 3/4" subfloor is the key to making it work. It all just barely fits

Thanks this helps a lot...I am guessing that where the pipes are for the shower you hollowed out the floor there.

DDickey 02-01-2018 08:19 AM

Here's another picture
 
1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by islandtrader (Post 2061570)
Thanks this helps a lot...I am guessing that where the pipes are for the shower you hollowed out the floor there.

Yes, for the shower drain I had to hollow out the subfloor for the trap and cut the first two layers of plywood around the pipe. The third layer fit over the assembly and became the new subfloor.

The toilet flange was a little different because I dropped it in once the floor and the pan was done. I cut the first two layers 1" in diameter larger than necessary, then cut the top precisely once the floor was down, then dropped the shower pan and the flange in, and screwed the flange down with stainless steel screws. I couldn't use the tank's rubber gasket with the offset toilet flange, but the flange fit nicely down into the tank, the hole being about 1/2" in diameter larger than the flange. I then sealed the space between the tank and the flange with polyurethane and filled the entire space between the flange and the plywood with polyurethane. The assembly will require caulk around the toilet to ensure that water doesn't seep under it and rot the plywood. Other than that, it should be a good assembly

islandtrader 02-03-2018 07:59 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by islandtrader (Post 2058260)
I am going to call this lesson learned. First of all I am sure happy to have the set up I have. I can pull or put the shell on the frame anytime I need to check the fit. For me this has been a godsend. For some reason I did not cut the floor around the wheel wells correctly and the wheel well was not fitting. I know why that happened. So now I made the correction

I forgot to give my reason...again I should know better...the reason for not fitting correctly is when I cut the boards the frame was not level....the A** end of this thing hangs down about an inch or better... now every time I work on the frame it is level and blocked up in the back...hope this helps anyone who is stupid enough to go this route ...haha :brows:

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islandtrader 02-07-2018 12:43 PM

Valterra Connection
 
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Ok I need some help here... I am trying to connect a Valterra dump to my waste tanks. The problem right now is that the waste tank fitting is 3.5 inch thin wall pipe. So the tank and the valterra flange are same size. You can insert a PVC 3 inch pipe into the waste tank (I would use abs) and that would fit into the valterra valve fitting. Is this the way to go?? Or should I use a rubber coupling instead of a 3 inch abs pipe. (Also posted in general repair forum)

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islandtrader 02-09-2018 09:00 AM

Attachment...body to frame
 
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I saw this was posted some time ago and it seemed like a easy solution to attaching the body ribs to the frame. So this is my rendition of how I am doing it.

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If you do not rout it out...it will not sit flush. After routing a little epoxy and then paint.
Now the angle can be inserted into the channel...
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steinVT 02-11-2018 08:19 AM

I really like the idea of using captive nut plates for the ribs. I will do this.

Couple of things I am wondering about;

Why did you need to route the floor? Is it to clear the tangs of the nut plate?

And why did you feel you needed to add the L-bracket? I would be tempted to just use stainless steel bolts and fender washers.

Thanks, Mark

islandtrader 02-12-2018 08:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by steinVT (Post 2065343)
I really like the idea of using captive nut plates for the ribs. I will do this.

Couple of things I am wondering about;

Why did you need to route the floor? Is it to clear the tangs of the nut plate?

And why did you feel you needed to add the L-bracket? I would be tempted to just use stainless steel bolts and fender washers.

Thanks, Mark

To answer your questions...Routing was necessary so the sub floor would sit flush to the out riggers...if you look at the picture real good you will see that the floor is not flush..this is an easy job.

The L bracket attaches to the rib of the shell...this is then ties it to nut plate. With washers a ss bolt there is no way to tie the rib to the frame.

I guess my thought process is this...if all the rivets failed that were connected to the c channel and all the screws pulled out of the c channel ...the body would still be tied into the frame and it can not come off. Make any sense...LOL

Hope this helps.

islandtrader 02-19-2018 04:39 PM

Sub Floor
 
3 Attachment(s)
For what ever reason...it seems like getting my subfloor completed is taking for ever. It is the foundation so I guess it should be done right.

Two coats of epoxy and numerous coats of exterior water base hopefully that will keep the rot away for a decade or so. I decided to add a moisture barrier on the frame to keep water from seeping in and to compress the floor to the frame so that there is no gaps. I really don't know if this will work as intended, but since they do it in house building and it really did not cost that much and is easy to do... Next major part is tipping the frame to attach the scary awful belly pans :lol:

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DDickey 02-21-2018 07:42 AM

Belly Pan
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by islandtrader (Post 2068296)
For what ever reason...it seems like getting my subfloor completed is taking for ever. It is the foundation so I guess it should be done right.

Two coats of epoxy and numerous coats of exterior water base hopefully that will keep the rot away for a decade or so. I decided to add a moisture barrier on the frame to keep water from seeping in and to compress the floor to the frame so that there is no gaps. I really don't know if this will work as intended, but since they do it in house building and it really did not cost that much and is easy to do... Next major part is tipping the frame to attach the scary awful belly pans :lol:

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The thought of the belly pan is way more scary than actually fabricating the belly pan. It's not nearly as hard as you think it'll be, go for it!

islandtrader 02-26-2018 04:31 PM

Sideways...
 
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Making progress...tilted the trailer on it's side. Ordered the belly pan aluminum.
Next update hopefully soon.

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Bubba L 02-26-2018 04:46 PM

Youíre making good progress. I hope you enjoy the belly pan corners more than I did. Good luck and have fun. Bubba

islandtrader 03-12-2018 06:33 PM

Belly Up
 
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Flipping the trailer completely over would be the way go. Being on the side is second best.

It took me 3 paper patterns to make it right. I did not find impossible, but it was a challenge to make it look good.

Everyone tackles this differently and I looked at a lot of posts and tried to do what works for me...but there are challenges ahead.

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islandtrader 03-28-2018 03:00 PM

Belly Pan Update
 
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Well last few weeks around here have been dedicated to house maintenance and spring breakers, visiting. Now back to the real work :D

Couple more sections have been put on. I'm trying to make sure I mouse proof the sucker. However I know they can squeeze into a hole as little as a 1/4 inch.

Takes time...as I said b4 its easier on the side than on your back...but flipping is the way to go..

Oh yes you can never have enough clecos...just ordered 50 more.

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steinVT 03-29-2018 06:05 AM

Making good progress. I'm jealous and still looking at snow out my window.

Couple of questions:
How thick is the insulation you attached to the floor?
How did you attach it?

Thanks,
Mark

Aerowood 03-29-2018 07:33 AM

If you just ordered 50 clecos then you are still 50 short.

islandtrader 03-30-2018 08:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by steinVT (Post 2082183)
Making good progress. I'm jealous and still looking at snow out my window.

Couple of questions:
How thick is the insulation you attached to the floor?
How did you attach it?

Thanks,
Mark

The insulation is 2"...and the back side has a thin plastic type sheet covering the foam board. I basically glued it on with a water base adhesive that was recommended to me, it comes in a tube like caulk. I would tell you the name but I don't have any tubes laying around.

islandtrader 03-30-2018 08:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aerowood (Post 2082208)
If you just ordered 50 clecos then you are still 50 short.

OH NO! Now you tell me....:lol:

islandtrader 04-14-2018 04:41 PM

Air Rivit Tool
 
2 Attachment(s)
Attachment 308695

I have had this tool for at least the last 30 years ...and when pulling a lot of pop rivets especially big or steel this is life saver.

Got all the flat pieces on and tomorrow I will start on the banana wraps.

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islandtrader 04-30-2018 08:44 PM

Plugging Away
 
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The problem with having to many toys is you have to attend to each of there needs...and the airstream gets the short straw. Oh well now the boats water pump is replaced...and the Jeepster,s tranny is now been rebuild.

Working on the banana wraps. Not really difficult, just takes time. Each wrap has an extra strip on the out riggers to prevent creasing and rub thru. Iím making the wraps a separate so they can replaced easily when dented... also getting ready to cut holes for the on demand hot water heater...thinking ahead :lol:

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islandtrader 05-04-2018 04:25 PM

Big Holes
 
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Today I finally got the measurements for the holes on the hot water heater. Measured 6x LOL and only cut once. I thought it would be easier cutting the belly pan b4 I rivet in place. Since the holes are 4 1/2 inches I'm glad I did it.

Doing an on demand water heater, with the exhaust through the floor rather than out the side. One hole is intake and the other is the exhaust. Smaller hole is for a pressure relief tube.

I used 4 inch pvc to line the hole and to give it the direct outlet it needs. Will screen the bottom with some screen caps.

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islandtrader 05-12-2018 04:15 PM

Done!
 
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Don't let the title mislead you...only the belly pan is done..:p

Like I said in a previous post...if you can flip it completely over, you will save a lot of time and back aches. I put my pan together with approx. 20 sections. For me it was easier to do...plus all the banana wraps can be removed separately if need be.

Each out rigger has a sacrificial aluminum covering if the seams did not over lap.

The exposed wood floor under the steps got a aluminum covering and will get caulked to seal out any water intrusion.

Next step is to clean the shell and get it ready to be attached to the sub floor. Can't wait to start doing something different.

Oh yes my first measure 10x cut once mistake. Any how I just "stretched" the aluminum by adding a piece since I was out of that material. It's on the bottom so no one can see it.
A few years ago I would of fretted about this and maybe ordered more aluminum . But knowing you can't see it and its not structural it does not bother me one bit...haha

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DDickey 05-15-2018 07:48 AM

Milestone
 
It's looking great!

islandtrader 05-20-2018 08:57 AM

Water Testing
 
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Before putting the shell back onto the frame I thought I would do some water testing and sealing. This way most of the crud is still on the ground and not on my brand new floor...LOL

What is interesting is that the end caps showed no sign of water intrusion and after a good soaking still were good. The only leaks so far are where they were before...did some blue pad die grinding to get the corrosion off and then sprayed the seams with leak seal...this stuff works great. It also comes in a clear formula, which might come in handy for quick repairs on the roof. I also have a quart of flex seal that someone gave me and will use this to coat everything that has a hole in it.

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islandtrader 06-02-2018 03:51 PM

Lift on...
 
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Finally got the shell back on...just in time for hurricane season. Putting the shell on is always a PIA. No matter how you plan it there is always a rivet or stray pieces of aluminum that hangs you up. It seems like you kick, push, shove and say bad things about somebody's mother. Then like some miracle you hear a loud noise and everything is solid. I do have to say when that shell is on the frame it is rock hard no jiggle...

A couple pictures showing the inside. I hard mounted the shell to the frame at four points. Now all the fun begins putting the 600 rivets in that I took out oh so long ago...

Off on a river cruise for the month of June so no more action til July. :lol:

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DDickey 06-02-2018 05:39 PM

Shell on
 
Congratulations! Shell on is a milestone for sure

Bubba L 06-02-2018 07:07 PM

You sure have come a long way. Glad the shell dropped back on without issue. I think that was my first initial big concern. But I found that there are a few concerns after the shell goes back on. I love challenges. All is looking great. Keep the progress going. Good luck, Bubba

MsRivet 06-03-2018 06:03 AM

Woo-hoo and a yiiipppeee ki-yay!!! Good job! We can't wait to get to this point on ours. That point will be a sigh of relief. One question . . .

Did you do anything special to the decking joints? What type of joint did you use?

chrisetmike 06-03-2018 07:24 AM

Congratulations, can't wait to see the rest!

steinVT 06-03-2018 08:46 AM

I can only imagine how good that feels. Going to be a long time until I am there. At least I don't usually have to worry about hurricanes, only snow.

Congrats, Mark

islandtrader 06-03-2018 09:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MsRivet (Post 2109859)
Woo-hoo and a yiiipppeee ki-yay!!! Good job! We can't wait to get to this point on ours. That point will be a sigh of relief. One question . . .

Did you do anything special to the decking joints? What type of joint did you use?

Not sure I understand the question fully. All boards and edges were epoxy sealed and painted. The joints on the sub floor are just butted up to each other with a bead of silicone caulk to water proof them. The C channel has a moisture barrier between the channel and the floor. And the sub floor also has a barrier on it floor to frame...hope this helps.

MsRivet 06-04-2018 05:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by islandtrader (Post 2109934)
Not sure I understand the question fully. All boards and edges were epoxy sealed and painted. The joints on the sub floor are just butted up to each other with a bead of silicone caulk to water proof them. The C channel has a moisture barrier between the channel and the floor. And the sub floor also has a barrier on it floor to frame...hope this helps.

That answered my question. Thanks so much! Some, and thatís only a handful of people, have added wood cabinetry biscuits to the subfloor joints. Preventing vertical movement across the width of the long subfloor joints. Overkill? Probably. We are not far from adding the new decking subfloor onto the new frame. Just polling what others have done.

Enjoy that river cruise!

islandtrader 06-05-2018 02:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MsRivet (Post 2110373)
That answered my question. Thanks so much! Some, and thatís only a handful of people, have added wood cabinetry biscuits to the subfloor joints. Preventing vertical movement across the width of the long subfloor joints. Overkill? Probably. We are not far from adding the new decking subfloor onto the new frame. Just polling what others have done.

Enjoy that river cruise!

The neat thing about the forum is that you do get a lot of ideas. I saw the biscuit thing (and I am a wood worker) and said really? If you look at the number of bolts going through the sub floor I do not see how there can be any movement. That being said my wife has accused me many times of over engineering things on past projects. So you pick your battles....good luck.

islandtrader 06-30-2018 03:27 PM

New Tow Vehicle
 
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Needed to move the airstream from outer bay to the middle bay for more room...

So much easier with the golf cart...:lol:

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islandtrader 07-15-2018 09:45 PM

What A PIA
 
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After buck riveting the body to the c channel ...the next little challenge is putting the wheel trim on. Three hours oh what a PIA😂...you have to cut the c channel and then heat it up. Then hold your breath while you bend it and hope it does not kink...all said and done. It turned out pretty good..
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steinVT 07-16-2018 04:35 AM

Pretty good? I would say it came out great. I am hoping to reuse my old wheel trim, but we will see.

How did you apply the heat? Aluminum is tough as it doesn't change color right up the point of melting it. A little scary.

Mark

islandtrader 07-16-2018 08:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by steinVT (Post 2129178)
Pretty good? I would say it came out great. I am hoping to reuse my old wheel trim, but we will see.

How did you apply the heat? Aluminum is tough as it doesn't change color right up the point of melting it. A little scary.

Mark

I used a hand help propane torch. I just heated it up for maybe 10 seconds, just hot enough so I could not touch it. Then I just started bending it around a metal pipe until the radius was close. Once close I fitted it into the wheel well and used a leather hammer to tap it into place. Of course you have to use a lot of bad words otherwise it won't fit...:lol:

DDickey 07-16-2018 08:42 AM

Great Job
 
Fortunately my trim was in good enough condition to reuse. I thought about replacing it, but heating and bending new trim scared me off

islandtrader 07-25-2018 06:35 PM

Windows...Time Sink
 
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Today and I mean just about the whole day I worked at putting in my back escape window in. One of the problems I was facing is that the j hinge was cracked and not salvageable...after striking out numerous times in trying to find one or even make one, I decided to use aluminum piano hinge. The only real draw back I could see is that replacing the glass might be a PIA. Worst case scenario is drill the rivets out and replace. The other little challenge was the previous owner(s) thought the best way to fix a leak was to remove all the hardware and then caulk everything shut. IF that did not work then put more caulk on it and see what happens.:mad:

Anyway the trial fit seems to work out well, and now the next step is to get the gaskets in place, put the glass in and rivet it to the shell.

Oh yes and make a hinge cover...I have been check other threads and I have not seen one of these. Maybe it was something that was done on some trailers and not the others...feel free to chime in.

The pictures tell the story...:lol:

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57Vintage 07-25-2018 11:17 PM

Escape Window
 
I had to do the same with my emergency window. After I installed it I found water would occasionally slip past the piano hinge, where the two pieces are tied together with the center pin. It's not a water tight connection. On mine the hinge point is far enough below the drip cap that if we have rain with wind in the right direction it gets wet and I'd get drips off the top of the window onto the floor.

My solution was to buy silicone rubber strip to lay on top of the hinge. I riveted it to the skin above and on the side of the window opening. just below the drip cap. Its flexible enough that it doesn't hinder opening the emergency window and lays flat enough to keep it tight against the hinge.

https://rubbersheetwarehouse.com/pro...edium-hardness

islandtrader 07-27-2018 08:45 AM

Kiss
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by 57Vintage (Post 2134021)
My solution was to buy silicone rubber strip to lay on top of the hinge. I riveted it to the skin above and on the side of the window opening. just below the drip cap. Its flexible enough that it doesn't hinder opening the emergency window and lays flat enough to keep it tight against the hinge.

https://rubbersheetwarehouse.com/pro...edium-hardness

KISS- keep it simple stupid:lol:

Your idea is a lot simpler and quicker than the aluminum shield, and most likely a better solution. Thanks.

islandtrader 07-29-2018 08:40 AM

Luggage Door Opening
 
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Some time in its long storied life the trailer had a blow out and this destroyed the luggage compartment door opening. So I had to do a little rebuilding, but its coming along . I hope to get the door done before I head out on our summer hiatus for the next 8 weeks.

Blow out damage

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Before

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After

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islandtrader 07-30-2018 09:16 PM

Moving Day
 
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Getting ready for hurricane season...so time to move Audrey to a safe place under the house...:brows:

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MrRivet 07-31-2018 10:44 AM

Itís good to have a secure place for the AS during H....... season. Our 2004 picked up a few extra dents and dings during Irma last year. We are considering hitting the road when the next one makes a direct strike to Central Florida just to prevent unnecessary damage to it and the 48 Liner.

Safe Travels!!
Tim

islandtrader 08-01-2018 07:59 AM

2 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by islandtrader (Post 2136356)
getting ready for hurricane season...so time to move audrey to a safe place under the house...:brows:

The safe place...

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islandtrader 10-18-2018 07:56 AM

Yikes...Look at this!
 
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Well after a summer hiatus we are now back in Florida. Time to get back working on the AS.

Before we left (the first week in Aug.) I put in the back window/screen for a trial fit. The glass was out. Anyway the screen was exposed to the outside air and within two months it is rusty as all get out. Now I do live on the intercostal waterway and I am about 1/4 mile away from the gulf of Mexico but gee whiz this is a little disturbing how fast things go to hell around here.

I think before I mount anymore screens and windows I will spray them with eastwoods Aluminum spray rust encapsulator. Then for the door I think I will use the bronze screen...more extra work...:mad:

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islandtrader 12-29-2018 04:13 PM

Back in the saddle. Finally
 
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As the saying goes life gets in the way...Wanted to get going on this in November when we were finally back home. However home remodeling and a boat that needed some TLC, plus the holidays...UGH

First thing I wanted to get done is replace the curb side rear panel and the back panel. They were too lumpy and beat up to try fixing.

So Today I took advantage of some free labor (son in law) as his family are staying with us over the Christmas break.

He started with the rivet tool remover and I followed up with the drill and punch for the ones that did not pop. This job really goes much faster with two people.

Hopefully before the end of the year I can cut the patterns and then install.

I plan on sealing the seams with a good shot of silver tempro and then use flex seal on the back side.

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Bubba L 12-29-2018 05:56 PM

I thought you dropped off the earth. Glad youíre back at it. I think a lot of Renovators look at the exterior skin and figure itís better to replace now than not do it and wished you had. Smart move. Ask your son in law if he would like to drop by central Texas on his way home. I need an extra hand shellacking the cabinets. Looking forward to seeing your progress.

islandtrader 12-31-2018 08:00 AM

Replacement panel
 
3 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Bubba L (Post 2194567)
I thought you dropped off the earth. ...

Not quite that far but off the AS Radar Screen...LOL

Made a little progress yesterday...laid out the new aluminum and then trace the old panel.

I think I have every known sheer to man. However what I found that seems to work well is scoring the aluminum 7-10 times and then using a wide blade fat max sheer.

I have an electric dewalt metal sheer and that thing is a PIA to use. I wish I knew the trick to using that thing...

Now the fun part, lining the panel up, drilling the holes and then figure out how to spread the tempro 635 without making a complete MESS :(

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Hittenstiehl 12-31-2018 10:42 AM

I've always wondered what the Airstream would look like it we only polished the lower/upper half. Thats a great visual of your shiney lower right rear with the oxidation on top. Now we know. Thx

Camper Crazy 12-31-2018 01:02 PM

I have really enjoyed your restoration journey to date. Looking forward to following your progress this year. Thank you for the great pictures.
Happy New Year and happy trails.

islandtrader 01-14-2019 04:24 PM

OMG! What have I done...
 
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Well someone once said airstreams and onions are the same...the more you peel off the more you cry...:lol:

After taking off the curbside rear panel and trial fitting it. I said self you have removed a majority of the rivets on the back panels and the street side panel is not as good as it looked before. Soooo

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I am a gluten for punishment...


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