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-   -   Security Fuel Pump (http://www.airforums.com/forums/f159/security-fuel-pump-126709.html)

coesi1 10-17-2014 08:26 PM

Security Fuel Pump
 
This is my first Forum and after reading the conversation it was time to register and ask.
My hubby purchased a 1996 B190 at auction, at a good price but it didn't come with keys or fob and has been sitting for about 4 years or more in the weather.
We had an ignition key made to start it, new battery, fuel in the tank 6gal as the gauge read half, programmed new key fob so the locks & alarm donít go off every time we try starting her, but canít figure out if we need a new fuel pump. I have read people installing security systems (switches) to shut off the fuel pump in case of thief but not sure what / where to look for.
Before spending time on dropping the tank and money on a fuel pump, does anyone know what we should be looking for if anything?

Although she is a little rough on the inside I canít wait to go camping again in something the wind isn't blowing over.

Best wishes and happy traveling.

Boxster1971 10-17-2014 09:39 PM

If it sat for four years with any fuel in tank that fuel likely turned to gel and is clogging your fuel system. Gasoline does deteriorate over time, read about it at this link: Does Gas Go Bad?

Your note is not clear on the exact symptoms you have.

Does it crank but won't start?

... or does it start/fire but wont run.

Can you tell if the fuel pump is running?

You may have to drop that fuel tank to clean out the entire fuel system.

westernjeep401 10-18-2014 06:58 AM

I'm not sure if the 96 B had an optional passive anti-theft system, wherein the key has a "coded" chip implant that is "read" by a receiver in the lock cylinder. If that's the case, you might look in that direction. If the van has an aftermarket security system, then look for wiring splices, harness, etc, near the ignition wiring loom near the lower steering column. A separate "controller" will be nearby, with it's own fused circuit that is sometimes wired directly to the van battery. A red "disarm" button might also be present somewhere underneath the dash in a discrete location, with a red led light also placed up high where you (and/or a bad guy) could see it flashing.

This assumed you've done the preliminary checks for air/fire/fuel, and all/some/none are there. Previous poster is correct; if it sat that long, don't be surprised if the fuel is badly fouled. The fuel tank is secured by two straps; the nuts and long bolts sometimes rust-up. When you go to spin the nuts off, the carriage bolt head (hidden and inaccessible) with round off and spin. You have to cut the bolts off (I have had to do that on EVERY B-van EFI fuel tank removal). Later B's had plastic covers from the factory that kept the threads from rusting. The fuel filler pipe is on the side of the tank, bout halfway up; it contains a plastic check ball. When you remove it, be careful of fuel spillage. The fuel pump - aka fuel module - is a three-piece component; pump, filter, and fuel level sender. The B-van fleet we had would usually suffer failures at 1000 engine hours. The module can be bought on amazon, ebay, napa online, Kragen...almost anywhere.

Make sure the PCM is signaling the ASD relay "on". This powers-up the system, thus the fuel pump relay and pump. You can locate the fuel pump relay and jump terminals 30 and 87 in the battery junction box to activate the pump, thus checking its operation. I have done this to empty fuel tanks. This is potentially hazardous, thus you might want to consult a MOPAR tech for further details.

Simple operating system on the B-vans, right up to 2001. Miss em'.

coesi1 10-18-2014 07:09 AM

Thank you both (Boxster & lgwaldrop) for the fast feedback and information. It does crank but will not start.
Keep you posted after the labor of the weekend.

overlander63 10-18-2014 07:23 AM

With the PATS system, the engine will crank, but the fuel pump will not run.
Also, you need to check the inertia switch for the fuel pump. If it was tripped, the pump will not run. That reset switch should be above and slightly behind the passenger side kick panel. Push and hold the reset button for a few seconds, then try starting the engine.
And yes, several years' sitting will ruin the gasoline.

coesi1 10-22-2014 09:44 PM

Thank you all for the feedback. It was 6 hour self job dropping the tank, 15 gals of fuel wasted and a $12.00 key fob and we got her home. I drove her and was thinking of all the place we could travel.
I can say I have more excitement than he is about cleaning her up, as he is thinking of flipping her and I see a few trips to the coast and enjoying life.
Best wishes to all.

cwf 10-22-2014 10:30 PM

Excellent! Welcome aboard!!

Pictures required!!!

coesi1 10-23-2014 07:06 AM

Thank you CWF for the welcome and offer.
We will need to take a look at the interior wall panels as it seems there was water leaking via the windows.
If you have replaced the wall panels what materials did you use?
Have a great day - it will be a nice one here.

Boxster1971 10-23-2014 03:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by coesi1 (Post 1528854)
Thank you all for the feedback. It was 6 hour self job dropping the tank, 15 gals of fuel wasted and a $12.00 key fob and we got her home. I drove her and was thinking of all the place we could travel.
I can say I have more excitement than he is about cleaning her up, as he is thinking of flipping her and I see a few trips to the coast and enjoying life.
Best wishes to all.


So what was the problem? Bad fuel or bad fuel pump?

We would like to know to close out the story.

Thanks,

cwf 10-23-2014 03:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by coesi1 (Post 1528934)
Thank you CWF for the welcome and offer.
We will need to take a look at the interior wall panels as it seems there was water leaking via the windows.
If you have replaced the wall panels what materials did you use?
Have a great day - it will be a nice one here.

I have not replaced the panels. I resealed and repaired as needed. Every 'leak' has unique effects.

So, as I understand:
- your fuel pump is electric
- fresh fuel 'fixed' the ability for engine to run properly

If so, I would clean filters or better, replace... run for a couple thousand miles and replace filters again... check condition of filters for debris. It may also be wise to put a 'pre-filter' between tank and pump... depending upon your situation and what seems appropriate at the time. As long as you are dredging up debris, then filter, filter, filter.

You may also know that 'motor fuel'/gasoline has a 'shelf life'... you would be well advised to put 'Stabil' or similar fuel storage treatment.

If you want 'security' improvement it is easy.. if you find the electric fuel pump fuse, you can just pull it when you park... there may be a relay as well...easy to pull and pocket. You can keep them with the keys so that you always have when you go to the AS..

Should that not be what you want, you will need to find the wires to the fuel pump and put a really heavy duty waterproof switch 'somewhere' that is an additional way to disable the pump.

Good luck!


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