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CampingwKids 05-31-2014 08:33 AM

12 Volt Panel Wire Identification
1 Attachment(s)
I am now finalizing a plan to change out the original inverter to a PD4045 unit. I see a couple of issues that need addressing. The original shore power end had the 30A plug cut off and the PO installed a normal house plug on the end. I will replace the cord with a new one and I can hopefully install it without have to remove the belly pan. My first question is that the 120V panel that is at the back of the trailer has a normal house white jacketed wire source cable. Does anyone know if there is a junction box that has the flexible shore power cable attached to the house wire? I am going to do a thorough search of the bathroom closet today and see if I can find one. I am going to assume that there is something as there is two different wires.

So my plan has become since the 120V power is at the back of the trailer and the 12V is at the front, I am going to install the PD4045 at the front. I will take a 120V wire from the junction box to the PD which will then feed the original 120V panel. I will take a new shore power wire to the PD4045 to feed it. Now I have decided not to remove the inside panels to do an ultimate restoration. I want to use the camper now and enjoy it. One day in the future I will do all of that. So back to my thought, I will have two 120V wires attached to the structure and feed from the back to the front. No I was looking at the 12V fuse panel trying to figure out what the wires are for. The purple wire was for everything that was back of the kitchen, lights, bathroom fan, and furnace fan. The yellow was for the all the lights in the front and the water pump. Now I could not figure out what the two blue wires were for. I am assuming that one of them is for the fridge but I am not sure if the fridge is a 3 way and if it is not then I have no idea. So if anyone has any comments on my proposal of how to change out the inverter/converter let me know. Any help on the 12V panel would be great too. The manual is somewhat lacking in description of wire details.
Thanks for all your help!

Attachment 213205

CampingwKids 05-31-2014 08:51 AM

I just went to look. Cleared out some junk and saw the junction box. I am assuming that I will be able to pull the existing shore wire through the rear compartment to the junction box.

idroba 05-31-2014 10:31 AM


Originally Posted by CampingwKids (Post 1462790)
I just went to look. Cleared out some junk and saw the junction box. I am assuming that I will be able to pull the existing shore wire through the rear compartment to the junction box.

Maybe, if you are lucky. I went to replace my power cord and found that it was clamped somewhere under the bellypan so it would not pull out. I wound up doing a solder and tape job on the original in the bumper compartment, as I was not willing to drop the belly pan to put a new line in all the way to the panel. On mine the exterior portion had sun and weather deteriorated, but the inside line was fine.

DryFly 05-31-2014 07:23 PM

1 Attachment(s)
So on my Argosy, the 50A breaker went to the battery - red wire. The 30A went to the tow vehicle - blue wire. The 3 20A went to branch circuits (outlets), one of which is an outlet behind the refrigerator into which the refrigerator is plugged.

Regarding the shore power, if you can avoid splicing that would be a good thing but not a necessity in my opinion. I would certainly give the existing one a tug or two to try to determine if it's got an anti-sag device attached at some hidden point. You may get lucky. If I'm reading your post correctly, then I understand that the PO installed a 20 amp shore power line in lieu of the original 30 amp line. If that's the case, then I would be concerned that the existing 20 amp line to which you would splice the 30 amp is too small a wire gauge to properly handle 30 amps. Maybe I'm not understanding your post however, and if the PO spliced a 20 amp line to the original 30 amp line, and you attach new 30 amp to old 30 amp, you should be ok. That assumes that the wire gauge on the new wire is the same as the existing (30 amp) wire gauge.

When dealing with electricity and your trailer, you should always be conservative and don't make an assumption as to what the PO did - err on the side of caution. Removing the belly pan is time consuming but not an onerous task. In fact, you may find (as I did) some important issues that needed attention.

CampingwKids 06-02-2014 09:03 PM

So I finally figured out what the wires were. The blues ones were for the radio and the other was for the electric jack. Now with the electric jack there was the blue for power and I am assuming that the black wire was for the ground. The two wires were taped together and both went towards the jack. I will check as maybe the black was to the brake release. Maybe the jack has a ground wire attached to a ground at the jack. I will check later to confirm.

Now I was trying to move the shore power attachment through the bathroom and I am not sure if am going to be able to or not. I guess worst case I will have to remove some rivets and then push it through. Now one other thing I noticed there was one larger gauge white wire I am assuming it was the one that went to the univolt but there is another white wire that is also attached fuse panel but I have no idea what it is for. The PO did splice off a lead for the water pump. I guess I will figure it out later. I may take some more photos and ask everyone for there opinions.

Savage68 06-13-2014 02:35 PM

A word of advice: I discovered that existing "ground rivets" should be redone and all wire nuts should be removed and the joint soldered and shrink tubing used.

I had lights popping on all over the place once I did that.

AlbertaBound 06-26-2014 11:12 PM

the blue wire is brakes on my 75 and black to the power jack. only one wire to the jack as it is grounded via the bolts to the frame. white is ground wire

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