 Chrjbenn
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Last Activity: 03-28-2011 07:45 AM
About Me
- About Chrjbenn
- City
- Martin
- State/Province
- Tennessee
- Country
- UNITED STATES
- Gender
- male
- Trailer #1
- 1963 19' Globetrotter
- Other Interests
- Scuba Diving
Classic Cars
Antiques - Occupation
- Technical Specialist
- How far are you willing to drive to inspect?
- 60
- About My Tow Vehicle
- 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 crewcab
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I bought this lovely fixer upper on craigslist, it is a 1963 Globe Trotter as far as I can tell from other pictures of like trailers. I would love words of wisdom from others that have started and or completed full interior restorations. The floor is rotted the shower is sinking and whoever had it last smoked. Any ideas on how to clean without damaging the original interior paint? Is there a way not to take the body apart and replace the floor? Thanks for any help.... and to people living close...
Recent Comments
Restored a 61 Bambi, that had been stored with garbage inside, so the smell took a while...always kept buckets of real charcoal in it when I wasn't working on it and found that getting the floor sealed with KILZ was key. Also, used a solution of tea tree oil on the old subfloor, as it is an anti-fungal and anti-bacterial, and that was a miracle. I used 1 oz to a gallon. It was a refreshing smell.
If you can add good subfloor over what you have, that might be the best, as there is major flexing in your climate. Brace with simple, lightweight metal components and do not use wood bracing, in order to get lowest clearance at doors, drawers, etc. and do not take anything off that is part of a curve, without keeping that piece braced while working on it...it all moves really FAST!!
If you are pulling new wire, try to keep it in the same areas. If you add cabinets, remember that the worth of even the simplest things is more than you may realize...I had saved all the hangers from the curtains and boy, was THAT a big deal! They do not make the runners anymore that thin and I almost cost myself a lot of money (over little plastic pieces!!) and was then able to by pass that cost and the hassle. I also used low cost, "green" old style linoleum, which looked right and was flexing enough for the usual issue at the door. That was braced with a heavy piece of flat steel and I had to go fairly far INTO the floor, with 2 pieces, not ACROSS, but into the "room"...there is little to anchor that to, so using the length as bulk was best. If all your light fixtures match, keep them and do not ever sell or toss the exterior cover over your heater panel...it is worth big bucks. There are good folding doors at Home Depot that are sturdy and cost so much less than ones on parts sites, and they can be cut and installed so easily.
Duo-tone paint (walls) can clean up well with simple, light TSP solution, and they still sell kits at Home Depot, if you have to go that route. The best wood colors were sometimes "pickled" and are not just faded. Why are you tossing so much? If it works, it just holds the value, except for toilets...since there are the greatest frigs out there, those are a good replacement item and after over 23K miles in mine...Minnesota was the hottest place!! So, I'm glad I never did get AC, but that fan got a workout! Does it have a screen door? Polyester mesh falls apart. Get the most beefy pump you can afford without 'loading" your power source too much. Make sure your water tank is pristine and if you are replacing, there are low profile ones now that can go under the original bed and those drawers under that end are really the most expendable, when it comes down to having water.
I used black out material on the back of the curtains, and it will really help keep your investment intact, as the sun really eats those...and weighted the hems with lead tape (fabric stores), so there was good contact with the walls curve. The tech side was a blast to work on, so good luck and keep it SHINY!! I have a lot of stories and most are familiar to anyone doing this, and all of us had huge venting issues, and leaks to deal with...once the whole structure was sound, the mech stuff took the least time and the most money. If your axle is good, and your tanks do not leak, you are practically done..HAHA,,,have a great time!
N W
If you can add good subfloor over what you have, that might be the best, as there is major flexing in your climate. Brace with simple, lightweight metal components and do not use wood bracing, in order to get lowest clearance at doors, drawers, etc. and do not take anything off that is part of a curve, without keeping that piece braced while working on it...it all moves really FAST!!
If you are pulling new wire, try to keep it in the same areas. If you add cabinets, remember that the worth of even the simplest things is more than you may realize...I had saved all the hangers from the curtains and boy, was THAT a big deal! They do not make the runners anymore that thin and I almost cost myself a lot of money (over little plastic pieces!!) and was then able to by pass that cost and the hassle. I also used low cost, "green" old style linoleum, which looked right and was flexing enough for the usual issue at the door. That was braced with a heavy piece of flat steel and I had to go fairly far INTO the floor, with 2 pieces, not ACROSS, but into the "room"...there is little to anchor that to, so using the length as bulk was best. If all your light fixtures match, keep them and do not ever sell or toss the exterior cover over your heater panel...it is worth big bucks. There are good folding doors at Home Depot that are sturdy and cost so much less than ones on parts sites, and they can be cut and installed so easily.
Duo-tone paint (walls) can clean up well with simple, light TSP solution, and they still sell kits at Home Depot, if you have to go that route. The best wood colors were sometimes "pickled" and are not just faded. Why are you tossing so much? If it works, it just holds the value, except for toilets...since there are the greatest frigs out there, those are a good replacement item and after over 23K miles in mine...Minnesota was the hottest place!! So, I'm glad I never did get AC, but that fan got a workout! Does it have a screen door? Polyester mesh falls apart. Get the most beefy pump you can afford without 'loading" your power source too much. Make sure your water tank is pristine and if you are replacing, there are low profile ones now that can go under the original bed and those drawers under that end are really the most expendable, when it comes down to having water.
I used black out material on the back of the curtains, and it will really help keep your investment intact, as the sun really eats those...and weighted the hems with lead tape (fabric stores), so there was good contact with the walls curve. The tech side was a blast to work on, so good luck and keep it SHINY!! I have a lot of stories and most are familiar to anyone doing this, and all of us had huge venting issues, and leaks to deal with...once the whole structure was sound, the mech stuff took the least time and the most money. If your axle is good, and your tanks do not leak, you are practically done..HAHA,,,have a great time!
N W
Posted 12-06-2008 at 03:47 PM by
