Greetings Mike!

Congratulations on your new acquisition!

With the number of electrical devices that you plan, I believe that you will need to at least partially rewire the coach. Your 30 AMP service from the factory will not be sufficient, and you will need the 50 AMP service to permit the use of cooking devices when either air conditioning or heating being utilized. Even with 50 AMP, you may need to guard against using too many of your electrical devices at the same time. Your existing electrical (120-volt) shouldn't need re-wiring beyond replacing the entrance cable and breaker box -- the larger 50 AMP breaker box will permit the addition of the extra circuits that you will need for your proposed setup.

You might want to consider one of the 12-volt, compressor type refrigerators that is manufactured for RV and Marine applications. See: Nova Kool, refrigerators, freezers, Marine, RV, Truck
One of the forum members, I believe, has utilized one of these refrigerators and has been very well pleased with its operation.

The one issue that you will be running up against with the air conditioner is the probability that the coach is not reinforced for air conditioner installation. Even if the coach wasn't factory reinforced for air conditioner installation, it is still possible to add an air conditioner -- it will just require some additional work to add some bracing between the rafters. A knowlegeable Airstream dealer should be able to assist with such an installation -- in addition to bracing, plumbing would need to be run for the condesate drain as well as an electric supply for the air conditioner.

My air conditioners are both strictly air conditioners. From what I have been able to learn, the heat pump can be effective but the units with heat strips provide a greater sense of warmth since the temperature of the air is higher when it is the result of the electric coils.

I would suggest maintaining your on-board water service. These small, one axle coaches are designed with the intention that you will travel with a full or nearly full water tank. When the water tank isn't full, it can cause the hitch weight to be low enough that sway or yaw can be induced. I know that even with my Minuet, it handles far better with a full water tank than when the tank is empty.

Bybassing the blackwater tank isn't practical. The earlier coaches that didn't have blackwater tanks simply had a terminator below the toilet that connected to the sewer hose. The downside to this is that it makes utilizing the trailer's bathroom facilities while underway nearly impossible -- I know that this is a big reason that one of my friends with a 1950s coach added a blackwater tank.

Good luck with your project!

Kevin

Hey Kevin, you were kind enough to give me advice when I bought my Overlander. I am now buying my dream, a 1963 Bambi, so I can actually take it out and use it. I have never taken my Overlander out because it was bigger than I felt comfortable towing with. The Bambi is being delivered today. There are a couple of issues, which I am hoping to get resolved immediately. There is no a/c. I looked at a low profile Carrier a/c-heatpump. I don't know if that is better than a regular a/c with heat strips. Also, it has no water heater, so I plan to get a tankless model. If you don't mind, will you answer a couple of questions? I want to make my unit all electric. It will have a small electric fridge. I am going to use an ice chest to keep things cool while I am in transit, but will plug in at my destination. I am going to put in an electric 2 burner cooktop, and perhaps a microwave oven. With the a/c, and all the other appliances I plan, will the unit be able to have added additional breakers added or will I have to do a total rewire? Also, can I remove the fresh water tank completely since I will only be using hookups for water? Can I bypass the black tank and directly connect the sewage output line to the campsite sewage connection? Thanks for your thoughts.
Mike