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Over59 · 08-12-2004, 06:28 PM

Well then I'll try again. Had a youngin holding the bottom while I twisted the little metal dividers out of the drain. Prehaps several WD40 treatments and some heat on the trap will help. I guess I could cut the floor around the drain and take the whole thing out and deal with it after it's out.
Thanks for the warning. Even if I don't use it I am sure someone will like to have it.
Now to tell the wife about the 54 Crusier in Michigan I want.

Over59 · 08-20-2004, 10:49 AM

No 54 cruiser for me.

I cut around the P trap from underneath and pulled the whole thing up to get the tub out. Alast more bad floor. Along the edge only and under the wall. Around the tub and across the back about 60%. The rear interior panel is corroded on the bottom about an 1/8 inch. The street side lower panel has a PO 8" hole in it so needs replacement or fiber glass patch.

Plan: remove lower interior rear skins to get a good look at floor edge. The bathroom floor is a separate sheet or I may replace it. This would likly make replaces to the last frame cross member easier as well. It's about gone. Also some main frame rot on the street side about where the toilet was.

There are three other problem areas so far. Under the window by the door, under where the water heater was, and just inside the curbside wheel well. The later is weak. There is a springy area in the middle living room. Whats amazing is looking under from the back you can see middle area frame cross members which still have black paint.

I hope to avoid the full monty as it well add a year to the job.

Over59 · 09-07-2004, 10:17 AM

Pulled the water heater. Opened it up to find a rather nice aluminum tank inside. The knobs are in very good condition, the heater tube looks good, the regular is unknown. When on pilot it doesn't push down, prehaps it's not meant to do so. One end of the cover and the body of the cover are good. Of course the brass fitting are like new.

If you want any of these let me know. I don't know if the internal water tubing is good nor how to test it with out alot of trouble. If no one want the internal tank I may polish it for a what the heck is that garden sculpture.

I'll post some picture when the camera battery recharges,,,,

flyfshr · 09-07-2004, 09:52 PM

Hi Paul,
I might be interested in the cover if it's in not to bad of shape and if it fits the opening I have for the newer Suburban WH. Can you post picture of it once your battery is ready? I'll go measure my existing cover. Thanks.

FF
2699

Over59 · 09-08-2004, 06:27 AM

I am recycling the outside parts and working them in with a new heater so I'l be using the face plate cover.

flyfshr · 09-08-2004, 03:37 PM

Glad to hear you're keeping the vintage look. Can't hurt to ask. Is that an International emblem showing in your avatar?

FF

Over59 · 09-11-2004, 06:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flyfshr

Glad to hear you're keeping the vintage look. Can't hurt to ask. Is that an International emblem showing in your avatar?

FF

Sure is. This is a 59 with the special 1960 plaque by the door.

This control unit is available if someone is interested.

Over59 · 03-08-2005, 08:22 AM

After all the shell-on floor replacement research, ideas, and efforts it looks like I'll be taking it, all off. I put in the front piece of 3/4 marine flooring and I am not satisfied with it. I had to rout the edges to fit under the channel. The only way I see of getting the other pieces in is to take off the channel, put in the floor and then reattach the channel to the floor and shell and belly pan. Sounds like reattaching the shell in a shell-off doesn't it. So I need to move the trailers around in the drive so I I have a place for the shell, the frame and the Caravel. All hopes of using "The Bat Cave Express" for this year's Region One are gone. Which means I need to spend some time on the Caravel to use it this year. Need a LPG heater.
The up side is I'll take the frame to the axel guys who replaced the Caravel axel with modifactions they designed and latter approved by "you know who". Two new axels and wheels and adding some elevation so the trailer doesn't bottom out. Add some frame support for the water tank placement and bolt down and so I can use 1/2 marine floor. The 3/4 is too heavy. I'll be able to get the frame sand blasted and painted. Looks like I'll just have to do it right and use the Caravel for what outings we do. Also means I don't need that new truck yet.

While avoiding this reality I have designed what I believe will be the most elaborate DC system any personal trailer has seen, purchased the switches, wire, and some lights to try. Designed the water systems down to the tanks and the weight distribution and bought some pumps. Desinged the LPG system including the size of the supply pipe. The colors, theme, fabrics ect are selected. I even have two ZipDee pation awnings in the garage waiting. Did this with much help from you on the forum. So do you think you could come by and take the shell off

some time soon? I was really trying to avoid this but was only avoiding accepting it. Looks like a BBQ / shell lifting party coming up, you are all invited.

Ken J · 03-08-2005, 08:55 AM

Paul

Been there done that - feel your pain, admire your stick-to-it-ness.

Would love to join your party - except that I'm about 2000 miles from you.

Question - why don't you use 5/8" plywood - thats what was there before...... a little bit thicker than 1/2 - not as stout as 3/4 though..... and... in my opinion, if you don't need to do major frame work, taking the shell off is not necessary

Ken

Over59 · 03-19-2005, 07:53 AM

This is the area behind the fridge. Looks like fire damage. The interior panels also have a black film in places as do some ribs. Look like a smoldering fire that started behind the fidge.

Over59 · 03-21-2005, 01:00 PM

All rivets are out, pushed through, and vulken seal broken, except those ataching to the front plate. Now I need to round up some jacks. I figure the shell to be about 400 pounds base on .46 pounds per square feet of 2024 and some for ribs and windows. Hope to take off the shell this weekend, then strip the frame for the sand blaster.

Neophyte · 03-24-2005, 03:31 PM

As I am about (in a month or so) to venture down the same take-it-off-the-frame road you're currently on, a picture of the jack up and support rigs would really, really be appreciated.

Over59 · 03-26-2005, 01:31 PM

It's off. As far as how it got this way I'll post some details later. I can tell you that some old retired guys from Airstream are sitting around laughing their... off about blind rivets, as in hidden from view. I'll be back with where to look for those as well.
I feel real good about this as I can now start to rebuild. The frame is in great shape overall. Still has the black finish coat on about half of it. It will be sandblasted and maybe primed need week. Then off to the axel shop.
I wanted to give it some height. Just need to put on straight axels. The orginals are a drop axel. It is low.

Ken J · 03-26-2005, 01:42 PM

Paul

VERY nice job!

Ken

Over59 · 03-29-2005, 09:57 AM

The frame is now at the sandblasting company. The paint they use for coating is $450 a gallon. I declined the service and ordered a complete kit of POR 15. Hope to get it back Friday and take it to the axel shop.
Still debating the axel job. New everything? New Axels and plates ect, what rating, real axels or funny axels?.

I am leaning toward new straight axels @ 3000lbs, new shocks and four brakes and keepiing the 15.5 x 5 wheels. I like to look of the old bias tires on a vintage.

Ken J · 03-29-2005, 10:25 AM

My vote is new everything - the only thing I may do is take the springs to a spring shop and have them look at them - its my understanding they can tell you what kind of shape they are in - doing this because you can't just order the 7 stack springs that are on the trailer. Am also planning on a new hitch tongue to be welded on.

Ken J.

Over59 · 03-29-2005, 10:40 AM

The new hitch is an must, no spring left in the rubber pad. New flex axels would give me all kinds of ground clearance and they are on the list to consider.
I've also ordered insulating paint for the back of the floor. I may paint the inside of the exterior shell with one of these products and the back of the end caps. With weather and UPS cooperation the shell will be back on if not completely attached before leaving for a rally on Cape Cod Memorial Day.

Over59 · 05-01-2005, 03:54 PM

Frame is back. New 3500lb axels and shocks and new thingy the hitch goes into, 2 5/16". I have it half painted with por15 but the weather has turned against me. Hope to have the shell back on by June. Camping this next weekend, trip the weekend after that, and camping the last weekend of May.
It need to stop raining and warm up some.

Over59 · 05-17-2005, 12:04 PM

Frame is painted, except the bottom of the rails. The por 15 black does not have that nice smooth finish you get with the silver. However it is thinner and goes on faster.

The Floor:

The front two sections are attached and the others we be on by Sunday.

I am using 3/4" marine grade fir plywood. I painted the underside with silver insulating paint. Then I put a layer of 1/4" foil on the backside using staples. The foil is foil foam foil. The foam core is like bubbles with the same material except very small random bubbles. On the ends of the outriggers I can drill up from the bottom using the old holes. However in other places this means drilling at an angle and then the elevator bolt will not be flat against the floor. So I an drilling from the top. I didn't like how the tops set on the floor so I went out today and bought a 1" forstner? bit to set the head flush with the floor. I'll have to take out about 10 and redo them. Now I have a method.

1) Fit each piece of floor.
2) Treat with CPES giving extra coats to the edges.
3) When dry Drill 1/4" holes from the bottom were they can be plumb for the front sheet. The first sheet has been cut to about 36" to line up with the middle of a cross member. Drill the Forstner hole for those bolts. (Drill Forstner hole about 1/8" deep for all elevator bolts, both the ones from the bottom and those that will be drilled from the top so the heads will be flush with the floor). Apply CPES to holes. Bolt in place with fender washer and lock nut.
4) Place second sheet. This will line up with a cross member on each side. Do as above for the outrigger bolts.
5) Drill holes from the top between the sheets were they join. Follow above to install bolts.
6) Use a chalk line to mark the frame member locations on the plywood for the crossmember in the middle of the sheet. Mark where the top down holes will be drilled per above. Tighten the elevator bolts from the inside out.
7) Continue to place each sheet and attach it with above procedure.
8) Fill the elevator bolt heads with bondo. Sand smooth when dry.

This should give a solid smooth surface for the sheet vinyl which will be put on in one sheet.

fireflyinva · 05-17-2005, 12:25 PM

Now it's my turn to ask you questions, 59! Btw, what's your first name? Please pardon if I've asked this question before.

How are you planning to get your shape for cutting out the curved pieces? We saved our edge pieces, plan to rough that out on a piece of cardboard, then refine that shape to trace onto the plywood.

Are you working in half sheets(I notice that you talk about joining a second sheet at the side of the first)? We're planning to divide our inserts, doing left side, then right side, etc., bolting the two sides together in the middle from the top (ie, I think where you talk about using inset elevator bolts). That appears to be the easiest way we can identify to insert the wood into the tricky spots.

Are you going to drill new holes through the frame (except for the outrigger portion, where you mention that you have existing holes)?

What is CPES? It sounds like an epoxy, but then you finish with Bondo (another epoxy)?

Cheers!

Mary