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Old 05-22-2019, 06:18 AM   #43
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1956 22' Caravanner
Don Pedro Island , Florida
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I mean this as a compliment ...it reminds me of the "ice cream/soda joints" we use to have in another era. Good job...I like it!
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Old 05-22-2019, 02:57 PM   #44
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I absolutely love your dinette!
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Old 06-05-2019, 10:28 PM   #45
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1958 26' Overlander
Battle Ground , Washington
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Lots of little details to finish up but needed a break. Going down to the Rockabilly Rally in Hollister, CA. Wanted to see the gold banded 57 Airstream that was recently restored.

Gave me a chance to really test our original Krefft frig that I converted to 12/120 volt with the kit from Isotherm. It worked great. Turned it on last night to setting 6 (1-7) on shore power. Disconnected about 2 hours before we left and let it run off batteries/solar. Had a nice sunny day (high 70s to low 80s) traveling through Oregon to the CA border. Checked the frig after setting up and pre-frozen ice cubes were still hard and everything was nice and cool.

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Having 400 watts on the roof paid off. Checked batteries on arrival and still at 100% on color cg. Although I left the original insulation in the body, I did replace the with rock wool in the door. I also added foil backed rigid insulation around the available cabinet space on the sides 1", top 1", bottom 2". I haven't enclosed the compressor assy yet and it sits above the frig in the cabinet storage space (with no door yet, waiting on hinges to come back from chrome plating) it is really quiet.

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Old 06-06-2019, 06:01 AM   #46
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Thanks Harold, I’m glad it’s working so well for you. It was through your thread and advice that we chose the Isotherm for our Dometic M16. It has worked flawlessly. Thanks again and have fun at the rally.
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Old 06-13-2019, 09:05 AM   #47
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1958 26' Overlander
Battle Ground , Washington
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Table Top

Back in post 19 (page 2) I demonstrated our table pedestal that allows you to slide side to side, back and forth, and rotate. The photos were with a small piece of plywood attached. They didn't really demonstrate the movement available. Here's the final shape of the table and demo of the movement available. (sort of practical, but lots of fun to demonstrate).

slid back
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slid forwar
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slid sideways
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rotated
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Old 06-14-2019, 07:09 PM   #48
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door alignment part 1

One of the projects I've been putting off is rebuilding our door. It needs a new outer skin, adding a dead bolt and alignment. The door is in medium rough shape. The lower portion has prior damage and a partial skin replacement.

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The door latch assy was replaced at some point with a newer style and they butchered the door frame and door surround.

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The alignment of the door is also out. Its too far back in the opening and tighter to the outer skin at the top than the bottom. The first thing I'm going to tackle is getting the door frame centered in the opening. To get that started I took some measurements. I placed some tape down the hinge side of the door opening. Standing perpendicular to the door skin edge I marked lines by both hinges to start measuring how far the door needed to move forward.

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At those same points I measured the door opening and the width of the door frame (not the door skin). With that I knew what the gap should be at the front and rear of the door opening. Measuring the distance from my vertical lines to the door opening and comparing that to the distance from the edge of the door skin to the door frame allowed me to see how far the door had to move. (door skin to door frame) minus (vertical line to door opening) = (current gap between door opening and door frame) I needed to move the door about 3/16". Measured off my vertical lines and drew a new line as the target (shown in photos above, red is current position, green is desired position).

Part of the movement was gained with the door on and tapping just behind the eyelet to move the eyelet forward.

Next I looked at the hinges themselves, comparing the gap between the body hinge half and the door hinge half. (forgot to take a before photo) The two sides were touching (along the blue line). Also look at the hinge eyelets in comparison to the hinge surface (yellow lines) Note the body side eyelet is fairly centered and the door side eyelet is offset to the left. Moving that eyelet can give you some small changes. Also look at the attached side of the hinge to the body (red line). On mine you can see a slight curve out at the right side. I took a piece of plywood and a bfh to tap on that portion to try and straighten, to no avail. There is too much give in the body to be successful (don't go crazy with your hits, the body is not as strong as the hinge itself). To 'bend' the portion of the hinge next to eyelet a crescent wrench works well, you can tighten it to the thickness of the hinge. I wouldn't recommend placing on the eyelet itself, work the flat portions.

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Also look at the eyelets, while the pin may not be loose enough to wiggle, the eyelet may be misshapen due to old damage/wear.

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After getting a preliminary realignment of the door in the opening I went back to work on the hinges. Like most hinges that are 60+ years old the eyelets are a little oblong. Not a big deal but I wanted to relieve any continued wear. Door comes off and start looking at the body side hinges as a single unit. Taking a long piece of 1/4" round rod I tried to slide it through the upper and lower hinge. More tweaking to get that accomplished.

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Now the same alignment process with the door side hinges to achieve the same alignment between the hinges. I was fortunate putting the door back on and checking the centering of the door it was good front & back gaps. If it had moved a little I'd go back to the beginning steps and adjust accordingly.

Same process will be done on the inner screen door once I replace the rivets on the door side.

The door is not quite in alignment top to bottom regarding door skin gap to shell skin. (wider gap towards the bottom than I want. Top half OK. Probably related to poorly repaired lower damage shown in photos. I'll tackle that when the new outer skin is done and I have better access to the door frame. Probably need to patch door frame where butchered for current latch. I have a Bargman H20 to install.

Hope this makes sense and possibly helps you get a better fit.
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Old 06-14-2019, 07:14 PM   #49
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Very cool. It will make entry into the U dinette easier.

The pedestal we used just goes up and down as well as rotates. Hey, two of six axis is better than one.

The completed dinette is extraordinary. I've not seen anything like it.

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Old 06-15-2019, 07:03 AM   #50
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1956 22' Caravanner
Don Pedro Island , Florida
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I get it...

Quote:
Originally Posted by 57Vintage View Post
One of the projects I've been putting off is rebuilding our door. It needs a new outer skin, adding a dead bolt and alignment. I have a Bargman H20 to install.

Hope this makes sense and possibly helps you get a better fit.
I am at the same point on my project. I have spent over 10 hours trying to make my H20 work and still no go. Oh well Thomas Edison once said "I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work."
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Old 06-16-2019, 07:12 AM   #51
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Airstream doors are one of the more complex aspects of the whole trailer. Your analysis and approach to repairing your door and lockset is very good.

My old Trade Wind had a one piece hinge that was well worn. I read Aerowood "line bored" the hinge hole and installed a slightly larger hinge pin to tighten the thing up again. I did repair the Bargman L100 lockset in my Trade Wind and also the son's 69 Globetrotter. Locksets are interesting to work on. My Overlander has the KT lock set that seems pretty robust, still working anyway.

David
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Old 08-02-2019, 10:05 AM   #52
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1958 26' Overlander
Battle Ground , Washington
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Kitchen sink and countertop

I had reinstalled the original kitchen sinks and counter top as a short term solution. When we went down to the Rockabilly Rally for a shake down trip, the boss talked to a number of people about their remodeled kitchens. The consensus was a single basin was more efficient than the two small basins that came with the trailer. So the hunt was on for a new sink that would fit the original cabinet.

I found that searching for a 'utility' sink was more useful than using ' kitchen' sink. The issue was my counter top was too narrow to accommodate the depth of a standard kitchen sink. Found one that was only 21" deep including faucet mounting flange. Time to cut new counter top, laminate and install.

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I also enlarged the counter top cut out for the oven vent. Before it was just open for the direct vent from the oven on the right half. The stove opening on the left just vents heat off the back of the stove. Still need to add the second piece of trim to enclose the stove top.

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We did lose some height for storage under the sink, but it should work OK since a gallon jug still fits. The furnace is located under this cabinet. That's why the 'grill' covers the lower area.

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We also found that lighting lacking around the sink so I added an led fixture to the bottom of the wall cabinet. The unit will rotate along its length so you can aim the illumination.
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Old 08-02-2019, 10:32 AM   #53
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Oddie cabinet hardware

Now that we had our cabinet hardware back from chrome plating, it was time to install cab doors. We were fortunate the original Oddie hinges and latches were still there and functioning. They just needed to be re-plated. The Oddie latches were a bit of a hassle for the wardrobe and heater door. These are overlapping doors and the latch catch (female side) has to be spaced out to the depth of the door offset. The original spacers were some type of softwood (balsa?) and were pin nailed to the cabinets. These fell apart when removing the hardware to refinish the cabs. I finally decided to replace with a piece of aluminum shaped to match the original shape.

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You're making up for the height difference between the door surface and the cabinet front.

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On double doors, such as the kitchen sink cab, the two mounting surfaces are in line so no spacer is required.

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The latch side (male side) can be disassembled. There is a clip that holds the latch rod in the mounting plate. With that off the interior spring and latch rod can be removed.
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Old 08-02-2019, 02:09 PM   #54
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57 very nice write up for the door knob and spacers as we have the same.

Now to remember where all this good info is some day. If time permitted I should copy paste all the hints and tips that pertain to us in a word doc with a reminder of where it came from.
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Old 08-02-2019, 02:42 PM   #55
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I did a Word doc when I started my research in AirForums to do the trailer. Over the years I've lost too many internet bookmarks to computer failures. It also allows me to go in and review all those items and delete, revise, marked done, etc.

Did the same now that I've started a punch list based on use of the trailer and prioritizing.

What it really boils down to, is I'm old enough to prefer a piece of paper for this type of thing.
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Old 08-02-2019, 07:18 PM   #56
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Very nice work 57vintage: We have that small double sink in our 75 Overlander and in our 86 Limited. I guess folks like a wash and rinse sink back than. Many modern trailer nowadays have a single sink.

The old cabinet door latches look very robust. My 75 Overlander has plastic ones which have lasted well these last 44 years.

David
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