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Old 09-19-2018, 12:03 PM   #29
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1958 26' Overlander
Battle Ground , Washington
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Combiner Box details part 1

Slowly getting posts up. Solar is done. Had an opportunity to have Lewster install my panels and double check wiring before he leaves for FL, so I took advantage. I had already installed the combiner box and wiring down into closet. I did make a small modification to the combiner box to protect the wires.

I took a couple 1/2" pvc 90 elbows, modified them, and threaded on a short piece of pvc flexible 1/2" conduit (I left foam washer off to make install easier). These will protect the wiring as it goes through the inner and outer skins and turns it toward the combiner box terminal.

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The line drawn on the conduit lets me know which direction the elbow opening faces when I feed it from the inside.

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The holes on the outer skin are just slightly larger than the elbow tube diameter, but small than the flange of the elbow. The two holes have to be slightly overlapped so you can feed the piece in (opening of elbow will face towards overlap in holes to thread in, then turned to face the terminals). The flange on the elbow is against the outer skin, but won't fit past. The holes in the inner skin are slightly larger than the flexible conduit diameter and slightly overlapped, to allow you some wiggle room.

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I installed twice; first to confirm holes in skins were sized correctly and to mark conduit for length, cut conduit to length, and final install.
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Old 09-19-2018, 12:13 PM   #30
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1958 26' Overlander
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Combiner Box details part 2

Last photo was out of sequence a little. Here is photo of elbows in place.

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Hopefully you can see the elbow flange rests against the outer skin. Next I sealed the elbows in place to make sure any leaks in the combiner box wouldn't penetrate inside. The red line on this photo shows where I trimmed the plastic mounting panel inside the combiner box to allow the elbows to clear and allow the wire to have a clear path to the posts.

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Old 09-28-2018, 09:04 PM   #31
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1963 22' Safari
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Great work Harold!! All your engineering and fabrication is impressive!
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Old 10-20-2018, 11:35 AM   #32
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1958 26' Overlander
Battle Ground , Washington
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Rear Stabilizers

During the course of the rebuild I used scissors jacks at the rear to level/stabilize the trailer while rebuilding the interior. They work fine, but I wasn't happy with the bulk and size. They're great shin biters. Also, my sewer cap comes out the rear, just inside the street side frame rail so space is tight.

For camping/storage I decided to try something more compact. I purchased some 3/4 acme threaded rod and coupling nuts to try a different approach. My frame rail ends were a mess from being added on to for a storage box. I cut them off and added some new 2X4 tubing. All I plan on having on the back is storage for the sewer hoses and a rear bumper.

I took the coupling nuts and some 3" steel plate to make a plug that would fit inside the frame rail. The nut is only 2-1/2" tall so its placed at the top of the plug to rest against the top of the frame rail. The steel plates have holes drilled to do button welds on the coupling nuts after the nuts are tacked on from the outside.

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The plug is welded to the frame rails with more button welds after the top and bottom holes were drilled in the frame rail. The 2 steel plates should make up for any lost strength in the frame rails from those 7/8" holes. The end of the frame rail is shaped to match the bumper profile.

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The acme threaded rods go down to some cast aluminum stands. These are suppose to be replicas of some early style stabilizer jack bases. I'll weld a nut to the top of the rod for a 1/2" socket, so I can use a cordless drill to set up. (1/2" is same size for bolt heads on the tank support plates.)

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The bumper is a later model aluminum one. It's still in primer. I sold the original steel one to another member.
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Old 10-22-2018, 07:09 PM   #33
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1975 27' Overlander
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What a great idea. David
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Old 05-07-2019, 10:51 PM   #34
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Banquette

Time for a short update. We didn't want to keep the gaucho and stand alone folding leaf dinette. Decided a banquette that curves around from the range on the street side to the door on the curb side. I spent a lot of time looking at various ones done here and grabbed a few ideas. I had picked up some more metal working tools last fall and decided I wanted to try my hand at an aluminum frame. Ended up with 6 sections and a few redo's. Mainly on the curved pieces. The curved pieces are mainly aluminum angle (thin stock .063) curved with a shrinker and stretcher (example https://www.eastwood.com/shrinker-st...-two-jaws.html ) with square tubing verticals behind for strength.

There's a short floor step up at the front due to the fresh water tank #1, but it only intrudes about 4". The unit is offset to the curb side about 4 inches due to fresh water mechanicals under the street side portion. We haven't made a final decision on how to fill the gap yet. I'd like to retain the vertical storage somehow.

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The curb side piece gave me a few headaches I wanted the seat bottom corner and the seat back corner rounded. Ended up making the seat bottom piece out of square tubing and notching it to create the radius and welding the slots. The curved seat back is aluminum angle (thin stock .063) curved using a shrinker, than back with square tubing for support. The curved seat back panels are alclad .032 riveted to the aluminum angle top and bottom. They are quite rigid and only required three vertical supports (both ends and center). They bolt to the seat frame

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The street side was much simple. It end at the stove so it's just straight pieces. There is the original wooden panel that attaches to the stove side to fill the gap. It has a hinged support for the stove cover that turns into extra counter space.

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The supports for the seat bottom are bolted up to the wall on top of a piece of aluminum angle bolted into the wall with rivnuts. The seat bottoms are .050 aluminum sheet with some 3/4" aluminum angle (.125 wall) riveted underneath towards the center to prevent bowing and centering the panel in the frame.

Here its ready to go to the upholsterer. He doesn't have room for the trailer (I wouldn't leave it there anyway.) It breaks down into 3 pieces that I load into my truck. I made the wooden supports from pieces of the floor templates I made at the beginning of the build. I had just screwed all the pieces together so it was easy to break them down for reuse.

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By pure luck the extended street side cushions will fill in most of the table top for the bed. We'll only have one piece to store (12" X 40") that is the front edge of the table with the big rounded corners. It will fit under the seat on the curb side and still leave plenty of storage space.
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Old 05-09-2019, 06:11 AM   #35
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1956 22' Caravanner
Don Pedro Island , Florida
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WAY OVER THE TOP! I was wondering if some one would do this. I was thinking this myself. However I want to get my project done sooner than later and my woodworking skills and tools are already good. I admire the job you have done so far...
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Old 05-13-2019, 10:51 PM   #36
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Picked up the banquette cushions on Friday. Glad to have that done, they did a great job and the covers are zippered so we can wash if needed. Having seconds thoughts on the white back rests, but as the wife pointed out with the zippered cushions we can dye or reupholster.

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Here's the filler when we make into a bed. The cushions on the extended street side completes the bed, so we only have one cushion to store (12" X 41")

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The "ears" on the top of the back cushions are for quarter turn twist locks to keep the cushions in place on the road. The male piece will be riveted to the seat frame.

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The fronts of the seat frames will be covered with some architectural aluminum that matches what is on the end of the frig cab (see post 23).
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Old 05-13-2019, 11:19 PM   #37
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Been trying to get a few larger things done off the punch list.

Never liked the idea of a curtain as a bathroom door. Also, with the narrow aisle through the bedroom I didn't want to turn sideways to enter the bathroom. Decided to make a double door. The left side is hinged to the wall behind the tub and the right side is a pocket door (both sides open)

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I haven't reinstalled the original wall on the right that will hide the pocket door.

Slider closed:

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Hinged side closed

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I found a hook and eye latch with a spring loaded retainer so the hook can't come out of the eye.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-Zin...-Latch/3036122

I use that to latch the hinged door open while traveling. Eye on the door lower right corner. Hook is under bed in toe kick area.

I may use the same type on the slider with eyes on the hinged door to latch shut and an eye on the sink cab to latch the slider open for traveling. Still playing with that part.

Also got the new insert for the old panel heater that covers the electronics. The original louvers were steel and pretty heavy. Didn't want that much weight on the piano hinge (see post 23, page 2) This is a perforated aluminum sheet that I bought through McNichols.com. I will also use it to replace the perforated metal on some originals shelves, a wall magazine rack and few other new things so it all matches. The boss hasn't decided on color yet so the panel heater case is still in primer and the insert is bare aluminum.

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Old 05-14-2019, 07:26 PM   #38
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That is a great idea for a bathroom door! Mine is a pocket door, and you are right. I must go through it sideways. But it leaves me perfectly positioned in front of the toilet. Efficiency.

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Old 05-14-2019, 10:10 PM   #39
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Wow amazing work! Love what you've done, you're an incredible craftsman that's for sure!
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Old 05-16-2019, 09:40 AM   #40
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Been reading your thread and admiring your work and skills without comment so far. Especially since I have little more to add them nice job, good work.

Your aluminum lounge however took me over the edge. What a beautiful piece of construction. Really liked the curves, the color, the upholstery colors and the idea of the upholstery fasteners to keep the cushions where they should be. We would like to consider the idea of aluminum cabinetry also for the look and durability versus wood as we live in extreme heat.

Also very much like the ReUse of the tall furnace door. We also have a vintage one in an avocado green and though we will likely not put the heater back in I now see a great repurposing for the door.

Thank you for the inspiration and the good postings of your work.
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Old 05-20-2019, 10:43 PM   #41
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Installed the first front panel on the banquette. The boss kept hinting to see one done! It's cut from some architectural aluminum panels I bought off a tiny house builder. The material has a tough clear plastic layer over the top so it should hold up to abuse from shoes, etc. They're riveted on, except for the other side. It will be bolted on for access to fresh water mechanical/hot water heater.

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Hittensthiel's post reminded me I hadn't posted a photo of the metal wall cabs. The boss wanted these to make a statement against the light yellow wall panels. Walls and cabs were shot will two part epoxy primer, color coat and clear coat after being stripped.

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Laminate just arrived for new table top and kitchen counter top. Will start on those in a couple days. Our one mid century modern touch to go with the original wood cabinets. The boomerangs are teal to go with the cabs and brown to go with the Marmoleum Click flooring.

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Old 05-21-2019, 07:12 PM   #42
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Very nice indeed. You are making great progress. Your boss ought to be very pleased.

David
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