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Old 12-07-2012, 11:16 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 195Pilot
desertair,
After I made my outriggers I cut out the slots with a jig saw with a 32 teeth per inch bi-metal blade. Drilled out the top and bottom position with a 3/8 hole saw.
After the cut was made clean up with a die grinder or a file. You can knock that slot out quicker than I can type how to do it.
Good luck
Jack
Thanks Jack
I like that idea as well,I'll check it out.
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Old 12-07-2012, 11:36 PM   #82
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Originally Posted by desertair27 View Post

Thanks Jack
I like that idea as well,I'll check it out.
Hey Mike just saw your post. I screwed up on mine and welded the outriggers on the frame before I relized I needed to notch them. I measured carefully and used a drill. I will post a pic for you this weekend. I have to rebuild 4 windows, yeayyyy.
Mig welding is easy i taught myself mostly. YouTube is pretty handy. Last weekend i learned how to replace bearings seal drive axle and suspension rods in my kenmore washer
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Old 12-08-2012, 08:15 AM   #83
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Originally Posted by marzboy

Hey Mike just saw your post. I screwed up on mine and welded the outriggers on the frame before I relized I needed to notch them. I measured carefully and used a drill. I will post a pic for you this weekend. I have to rebuild 4 windows, yeayyyy.
Mig welding is easy i taught myself mostly. YouTube is pretty handy. Last weekend i learned how to replace bearings seal drive axle and suspension rods in my kenmore washer
You tube is great,amazing how much info is on there and just like the Airforums full of great people willing to post how to videos.
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Old 12-08-2012, 11:11 PM   #84
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Mike,
On the welding, I bought the 199.00 mig special; from harbor freight, 240 volt, and welded up a complete new frame. Get a good auto-dark Helmet. Play with it on some scrap when you feel comfortable repair the frame. Learn to stricke an arc, start a puddle, and move in a zig-zag pattern across the piece. Set up the machine for the right amp and wire speed.
You Tube will show you how.
good luck,
Jack
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Old 12-10-2012, 10:55 PM   #85
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Hey Jack
I have a nice little Miller mig welder,just need some more practice.thanks for the tips. I have one outrigger welded up now I just need to cut slots for the steps. I already have the outriggers made so ill end up cutting the slots with a metal blade in my jigsaw.
Thanks for the help.
Mike
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Old 12-13-2012, 12:02 AM   #86
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Crap Sorry I posted those pics last night! looks like they got lost here goes again....
I drilled a notch to lock the step in the open position
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Old 12-13-2012, 12:50 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marzboy
Crap Sorry I posted those pics last night! looks like they got lost here goes again....
I drilled a notch to lock the step in the open position
Thanks for the pictures Javier. Those look like stock step outriggers off a 70's AS or you did a kick ass job adding the slot in there. I did notice the notch you added for your step.
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Old 12-14-2012, 10:17 AM   #88
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Thanks for the pictures Javier. Those look like stock step outriggers off a 70's AS or you did a kick ass job adding the slot in there. I did notice the notch you added for your step.
Actually the outriggers are new I just had to cut the length before I welded them to the frame. The tiny notch I cut in the picture is to lock the step in place.
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Old 12-14-2012, 11:34 AM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marzboy
Actually the outriggers are new I just had to cut the length before I welded them to the frame. The tiny notch I cut in the picture is to lock the step in place.
Cool Javier, that's great to hear. I had outriggers made to replace my step outriggers and I doubt I can do a good enough job on the step slot so I sure like what you did. I better order some step outriggers like you did.
Thanks!
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Old 12-15-2012, 09:58 AM   #90
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Cool Javier, that's great to hear. I had outriggers made to replace my step outriggers and I doubt I can do a good enough job on the step slot so I sure like what you did. I better order some step outriggers like you did.
Thanks!
Yes I think that would be prudent. Unless you have some crazy tool your not telling me about.....
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Old 09-11-2013, 08:14 AM   #91
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Well I've been working on my Overlander the last 6 months just not posting any pictures and I recently had an accident on my motorcycle where I busted a rib and punctured a lung. So I have plenty of down time to start getting caught on at least a little bit of progress.
When I purchased this trailer it had some damage to street side skin. The skin had a couple of kinks and major ripples or waves where I figured the door had slammed opened in transit. I pulled all the street side interior along with the inner skin to reveal the damaged stringers. This allowed me to replace those bent stringers. I was hoping the new stringers would help take the waves out of the outer skin but no luck. I did notice the wheel well was damaged from the inside of the trailer,really wierd. It's like something was dropped on the wheel well which is riveted to the outer skin and I'm now thinking this has something to do with my outer skin issues. So now I've decided to replace the whole 12 ft panel because I can't get the kinks out anyways, it couldn't be a small panel for my first panel replacement it's gotta be the big one. Just my luck!




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Here's a picture of the panel with all the rivets removed and ready to be removed except for towards the rear of the trailer where a black sealant is really holding the panel. The rest of the panel had very little sealant.


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After much prying and pulling the panel is off.



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Here's a couple of pictures showing outer wheel damage although you can't see it in the photo.



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This picture shows the c channel that runs from the entry door opening to the wheel well. It needs to be replaced since its cracked where it punts to the floor by the wheel well. This picture also shows the extra wide stringer I had already added to beef up the door hinge mount.
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Old 09-11-2013, 08:31 AM   #92
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I have to give major kudos to all forum members who do such good job of documenting their work, it really takes a lot of time and effort.

More pictures of the work in progress. Here are some pictures of the area to the left of the entry door with the C Chanel removed.

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Old 09-11-2013, 09:14 AM   #93
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So I think I've figured out the problem and what's causing my wavy skin issue.
A broken rib for me and bent ribs for my trailer, neither are fun. It appears the first 2 ribs to the left of the entry door are either bent inwards from the door slamming open at one time or another although I don't see any damage to the ribs which leads me to another thought that. These 2 ribs don't follow the same contour as the other ribs,it's about a 3-4 foot section of the rib that is straighter than the other ribs.

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You can see the 3/8 inch gap in the picture with my grubby finger. My question is how should I go about fixing these 2 ribs? I've read about people adding shims but 3/8 inch is a lot of shims and I'm afraid the inner skins having issues. I don't see a way of reshaping these ribs but if anyone out there has advice please let me know. I've also read about notching the inner side of the rib allowing the rib to be bent.
All advice appreciated and welcome.
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Old 09-15-2013, 11:40 AM   #94
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Well after a few nights of lying awake troubleshooting trying to figure out a way to put the appropriate curve back into the two ribs that were damaged by what I'm assuming was the door flying open. It's amazing how strong these ribs are when I try to bend to bend them back into place but I guess a door flying open if it were to happen at 60mph has got to be an amazing amount of force on the trailer.

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First picture is before with rib without appropriate curve.
Second picture is after I was able to get the majority of the curve back into the rib closest to the door.

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My cardboard template showing a 3ft section that has what curve the rib has and what it should have. It's a good 3/8 difference.
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Old 09-22-2013, 07:39 PM   #95
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Well I had to buy some tools today. I picked up a nice 18v Milwaukee drill/impact combo kit and a Sharkbite Pex tool. Not even close to being ready to install any Pex but it was discounted and I know I'll be needing it so I got it.
The Milwaukee drill and impact are so sweet! They should be good for a million rivets or 10

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years whatever comes first!


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I also received my West Marine epoxy order that I'll be coating the floor with after I've sanded and faired all joints and irregular surfaces. I plan to install a marmoleum flooring very similar to Top. I'm hoping I can do half as good a job as Lance.
I've spent about 10 hours so far removing the old nasty tile, not sure if this tile is the famed asbestos product but I'm not taking any risks. Full on respirator and lots of water to keep any airborne fibers.

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Old 09-22-2013, 08:47 PM   #96
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Good toys!

In your part of the world, do you use the 206 West Systems Hardener to keep the mixed batches from overheating?
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Old 09-22-2013, 08:52 PM   #97
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Good toys! In your part of the world, do you use the 206 West Systems Hardener to keep the mixed batches from overheating?
Hey John

I went with the 206 slow hardener,It's my first time using a product like this so I went with what the experts recommended.
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Old 09-22-2013, 09:03 PM   #98
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Hey John

I went with the 206 slow hardener,It's my first time using a product like this so I went with what the experts recommended.
Good. The 205 could be dangerous in warm weather with larger batches. The reaction gives off heat and the more you mix the more it heats. I've seen it get so hot it smokes and can easily burn you. Using the 206 with smaller batches will be safe.

BTW, the measuring pumps are a great way to keep your multiple batches very consistent.
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Old 09-23-2013, 06:18 AM   #99
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Good. The 205 could be dangerous in warm weather with larger batches. The reaction gives off heat and the more you mix the more it heats. I've seen it get so hot it smokes and can easily burn you. Using the 206 with smaller batches will be safe. BTW, the measuring pumps are a great way to keep your multiple batches very consistent.
Thanks John,

I got the pumps after reading about them here. I can't wait to get my floor cleaned up and ready for the epoxy.. This tile removal is such a pain but it'll be worth it.
Thanks for your comments and advice. Always appreciated.
You're moving right along with your trailer, it's really looking good.

Mike
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Old 09-23-2013, 06:29 AM   #100
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I have the panel on temporarily,I've had it on and off at least 6 times making sure thing are right,little trim here and there. I'm almost ready ready to buck this panel and peal that protective film off and see how nice it looks.
Thanks to Frank Yensan of Franks Trailer Works for his advice.
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