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Old 09-05-2012, 04:33 PM   #41
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Looks like you're on a roll. Good finds.

If you need an Astradome, VTS has them here.
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Old 09-05-2012, 10:25 PM   #42
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1963 24' Tradewind
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 65CV
Looks like you're on a roll. Good finds.

If you need an Astradome, VTS has them here.
Thanks John, it's like a treasure hunt.
Yup I'm going to need an Astrodome and my problem is going to be that I need the lifters also. Not much luck finding those yet.
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Old 09-07-2012, 11:38 PM   #43
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1960 26' Overlander
1963 24' Tradewind
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I found some lifters now I just need VTS to hurry up and get some more Astrodomes in, C'mon man!
On a side note my pooper tank is actually leak free. When I first brought the trailer I tried to fill up the tank partially so as to hopefully break up any leftover remnants of PO's dried up do dokie!,So i could dump it before i got home.Well it leaked like crazy,I assumed the old brass dump valve had crapped out.I guess it helps to actually close the valve all the way and guess what? She's tight and no leaks.
I'm a happy camper!
I included pictures of the hard to find lifters but I'll leave the disgusting waste tank pictures out. I will include some pictures of the plumbing underneath and what I think is in pretty good condition.
What's a few spider webs and eggs?
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Old 09-12-2012, 11:05 PM   #44
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1957 22' Caravanner
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1963 24' Tradewind
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n2batr
You will be Ok with the window if the framing is intact. I don't think those round running lights are original. Everything I have seen are teardrop shape if present at all. Believe it or not those door hinges are originally attached through only the one layer of 0.032 aluminum sheet. When I redid mine added some thick aluminum behind it and attached that to a nearby rib. Ed
Do you have any more info or pictures on how you beefed up your door hinge mounts. I have my inner skin off and would like to see how you did yours.
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Old 09-13-2012, 09:11 PM   #45
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You know I don't think I have any photos of the bracing and my walls are insulated and wired. All i did was get some thick sheet of aluminum and cut it approx 6 inches tall and wide enough to span to the next rib which in my trailer was maybe 5 or 6 inches away . Then on each end I bent it at 90 degrees and 1.5 inches in depth. So you have a kind of wide c or u channel that you can rivet to each rib , Then put several rivets in each leg to the rib on each side . then when you rivet the door it will be through the outside skin and this extra plate which is riveted to the ribs by the 2 legs. . if you do not have a close rib just use have one 1.5 leg ,rivet that to the rib near the door and have the other side just be flush but wide enough to rivet the door hinge to. i think i used .125 thickness but any thing above .032 will help. To make the bend I think i just clamped it to a metal table and bent it over with a hammer as it was too thick for a brake. Hope that makes sense if not PM or email me. Ed
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Old 09-17-2012, 11:50 AM   #46
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Thanks for the info n2batr. I removed everything from that side of the trailer so I could get inside the wall to shore up the door hinges.What a pain in the butt it was to remove all the original flat head screws holding everything together.I think I'll have to replace the flat head screws with some phillips heads. Here's some pictures of what I did.



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This picture is of the nice hole that was ripped into the skin from the door hinge when the door flew open. I purchased the trailer like this

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I was able to attach my inner brace to the door jamb and the rib thats 10 inches away. This really beefed up the hinge mounts.I know the hinge looks crooked on the picture but thats the original mounting holes so I stayed with them.
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Old 09-17-2012, 12:16 PM   #47
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Found some old vulkem as well, I wonder if it's still good. Tube feels pliable so who knows.
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Old 09-17-2012, 12:26 PM   #48
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Here's some pictures of my inner skins, 7075 series aluminum.040.

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These are pictures of the mangled cross members that span from rib to rib. Most of these pieces aren't attached to the ribs but just rivet to outer skin and or inner skin. I would think they should be anchored to ribs some way other. Anyone know for sure?

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And here is a picture of my new cross member

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Old 09-18-2012, 07:48 AM   #49
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That door looks solid. Nice job. Yes the stringers are really just to the skins and not attached to the ribs. Thats how airstream did it. I replaced several in mine and added some extras in a couple of areas. Did it the same way. Ed
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Old 09-18-2012, 09:17 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n2batr
That door looks solid. Nice job. Yes the stringers are really just to the skins and not attached to the ribs. Thats how airstream did it. I replaced several in mine and added some extras in a couple of areas. Did it the same way. Ed
Thanks Ed
I'll be adding some stringers like you did. Do you think I should attach the stringers to the ribs?
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Old 09-18-2012, 11:07 AM   #51
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Nice work desertair. Let me know when you are doing a workshop, and I'll come down and get some pointers! I don't need to do anything like that, but a little knowledge goes a long way...

Philip
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Old 09-18-2012, 11:39 AM   #52
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Nice work desertair. Let me know when you are doing a workshop, and I'll come down and get some pointers! I don't need to do anything like that, but a little knowledge goes a long way...

Philip
Hey Phillip
Haha I'm learning as I go and asking a lot of questions here on the forums and reading as much as possible. Let me know when you're in town and we can get together.
Did you make it the White Sands get together?
Mike
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Old 09-19-2012, 07:27 AM   #53
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I don't think you need to attach them to the ribs. Probably overkill and you want the stringer edge to be flush with the inner rib surface. So I don't think you want to overlay them. You could probably figure out a way to rivet them to the rib avoiding that ,but its not necessary and your gaining some strength just by adding them. I did not attach mine to the ribs, The only place I added attachments were at the Rib to C channel junctions. Ed
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Old 09-19-2012, 12:39 PM   #54
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Mike,

As one of the few people with no inner skins on his '59 Overlander, I can confirm the original build.

Mine aren't attached on the sides at all. The two sets of ribs on either side of the roof centerline, however, ARE attached to the ribs.

John
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Old 09-19-2012, 02:14 PM   #55
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So do you suggest not attaching the stringers to the ribs? I had a few stringers with no attachments at all. One laying on top of the wheel well, nothing attached inner or outer. I'm assuming once the inner skin is attached it ties everything together. I'm trying to repair some damaged stringers and crinkled, warped outer skin where the door must have flown open and smacked the crap out of the side of the trailer.
Thanks as always for the expert advice.
Mike
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Old 09-19-2012, 03:00 PM   #56
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So do you suggest not attaching the stringers to the ribs? I had a few stringers with no attachments at all. One laying on top of the wheel well, nothing attached inner or outer. I'm assuming once the inner skin is attached it ties everything together. I'm trying to repair some damaged stringers and crinkled, warped outer skin where the door must have flown open and smacked the crap out of the side of the trailer.
Thanks as always for the expert advice.
Mike
I'd leave the original construction as is absent a very good reason to make changes. During the time I had my inner skins off, I think my time was best spent checking for loose rivets and replacing any that were sources of leaks - there were several that upon close inspection were wiggling around a bit and needed to be drilled and replaced (sometimes with a larger rivet because the hole was too big for the original size). The awning rail is an area you should examine closely as it has a strip of butyl tape underneath that is likely dried up and cracked. It can be a huge souce of leaks and you should consider taking it off, replacing the butyl tape and re-riveting it to the trailer.

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Old 09-19-2012, 03:21 PM   #57
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.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by desertair27 View Post
Hey Phillip
Haha I'm learning as I go and asking a lot of questions here on the forums and reading as much as possible. Let me know when you're in town and we can get together.
Did you make it the White Sands get together?
Mike
No, didn't make it (work). It will have priority for next year, however, conditions permitting. I'll let you know when I get down there next. Keep up the good work!

Philip
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Old 09-19-2012, 08:13 PM   #58
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If you really want to know how to work aluminum read some of the threads by Kip - Aerowood here in the forums. He is a metal working magician and Yes, He did attach the stringers to the ribs in his Globetrotter. After handling his skins personally I am willing to bet he has the most solidly built Airstream of all time. Others have joked that it could probably be pressurized! Very impressive build and a great learning resource.
tim
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Old 10-09-2012, 11:07 AM   #59
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Outriggers needed for '60 Overlander

Anyone out there have any info on outriggers for a 1960 Overlander? I've looked at Inland and Out of doors websites and they only show 1969 and newer. I need the two that support the step and the one in front of the wheel well.
I'm sure I can have some made but would rather buy.
Any and all info is welcome.
Thanks
Mike
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Old 10-09-2012, 12:14 PM   #60
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I had to fabricate mine. The newer ones are too long. Why dont you replace the steps with newer ones that you screw in from the bottom?
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