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BradS · 10-26-2010, 02:17 PM

What am I up against?

I have a 1957 Overlander. It is in need of some attention, lots of attention.

When and if I ever really get finished I would like a trailer that has all the features I am looking for. A queen sized bed is one of thoes features. By moving the door one ribspace I can fit one in. I would be moving the door towards the middle of the trailer. The bed would be in the front and would go side to side.

What are your thoughts?

SteveH · 10-26-2010, 02:35 PM

The first thing that comes to my mind is you will have to replace all of the aluminum on that side of the trailer, or have a patch where the door was originally.

BradS · 10-26-2010, 02:45 PM

That will be the easy part. I will be replacing enough metal that a little more wont hurt. If I start making changes I want to do it right

arodriguez60 · 10-26-2010, 02:48 PM

How much are you going to be able to move the door? How much area do you have before you get to the inner wheel well?

NJtoNC · 10-26-2010, 02:50 PM

wow. that sounds like quite a project. if you do it, please document for the rest of us. why cant you put the queen bed on the other side of the trailer, the back? then give it a center bath?

BradS · 10-26-2010, 02:54 PM

I will be moving the door about 24" which will put me about 4" away from the wheel well. I want to move it to the last full rib before the wheel well

BradS · 10-26-2010, 02:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NJtoNC

why cant you put the queen bed on the other side of the trailer, the back? then give it a center bath?

Cause Im nuts. We have a 22' CCD with the bed across the front and we love it. I build and remodel custom homes so I cant leave anything alone and we love the big rear bath. Its roomy, we currently have a wet bath in the 22'

arodriguez60 · 10-26-2010, 03:01 PM

I thought about the steps but if the floor and steps are in the condition of the ones in my 59 Flying Cloud that shouldn't be a problem. On mine the floor is rotted and the steps are rusted away. I don't see why you can't do your mods.

BradS · 10-26-2010, 03:03 PM

Before this is over it will be a shell off rebuild. The floor is rotten and Im unsure what the frame looks like

tinman54 · 11-02-2010, 07:33 AM

Hey Brad, That sounds like an interesting idea, I like it. The only thing that I could see is the shell may have more stress on it closer to the center? I have read other threads about stress cracks above the door in its present location but maybe that is caused by frame problems?
Good luck,Doug

ts8501 · 11-02-2010, 07:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tinman54

I have read other threads about stress cracks above the door in its present location but maybe that is caused by frame problems?
Good luck,Doug

Our '64 Safari is prone to a stress crack near the door frame by the front curbside window. I believe it happened to Viking and others.

BradS · 03-10-2011, 08:35 PM

I started to move the door. It went from the front all the way to the rear. Im waiting on new hinges to complete it.
Once I get it mounted and swinging the way I would like I will start filling the holes.

54Cruiser · 03-11-2011, 07:01 PM

Brad I like it. I have a '54 crusier and I want to make the area at the front a large living room but the door kind of limits what you can do. I'm not sure I'm up to moving it but I really want to follow what you're doing here so please document with lots of pics. Thanks

BradS · 03-11-2011, 07:38 PM

Hi Don

I will do my best. If you want to see what else is happening with the trailer look at the thread titled " I found the leak" After rebuilding both endcaps moving the door didnt seem as hard as I thought it would be

n2batr · 03-11-2011, 07:59 PM

Brad That site should work. That is the exact position of the second door on my 58 double door cruiser. Ed

BradS · 03-16-2011, 05:26 PM

Yesterday I received my new door hinges and got them mounted. The door is now installed in the rear of my trailer. It was almost anti-climatic I was hoping for a band to play or some mystery to be answered. Oh well!

I took the outside skin off so I could mount the new hinges. I will leave the inside skin on until I have the new outside skin clecoed in place. The door seems to bee keeping its shape just fine.

n2batr · 03-16-2011, 05:47 PM

Brad Any thoughts to adding an extra layer of aluminum inside the outer skin where the hinges attach. I bent some heavier aluminum sheet. I think 060 and riveted it from one rib to the next at the levels where the hinges attach to the body. Kind of like a very wide C channel with 1.5 in legs. This gives a lot of extra support to where the hinges meet the body. Just a thought. Glad the door move has gone well. Ed

BradS · 03-16-2011, 05:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by n2batr

Brad Any thoughts to adding an extra layer of aluminum inside the outer skin where the hinges attach. Ed

Yes. The outside row of rivets on the hinge leaf fall over a rib. I am planning on riveting some 1-1/4" L channel to the rib for the other set of rivets to go through

n2batr · 03-16-2011, 06:07 PM

Excellent. Might as well add some strength. All the best Ed

Silverfoxrae · 03-16-2011, 07:36 PM

Photos will answer this, but with the curve of the "butt" of the AS, how does the door look when open? Does it lay back against anything or will it just keep closed?
Rae

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