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Old 05-04-2011, 01:18 PM   #201
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1973 27' Overlander
Loganville , Georgia
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I got my mattresses from a guy who redid his beds in his RV. they will work great for my needs. One less expense

Brian
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Old 05-07-2011, 07:11 PM   #202
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1959 26' Overlander
Nowhere , Washington
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Gas Lines

Ryan came over today and was incredibly helpful with getting the gas line work started. He came up with a great plan for dealing with all the obstacles now hanging from the belly that make an otherwise straight-forward job very complicated. We had to navigate around the stablilizer jacks, the two gray tanks (foward and aft) and the drain plumbing. As a result, instead of a straight 1/2 line with 3/8th feeds heading off to the various appliances, we had to jog back and forth and add several elbows. Ryan's experience with his two previous restorations was invaluable. Before he had to leave, we had about 80% of the lines run. I finished a few more sections after he left and should be able to finish up and be ready for a pressure test with a couple more evenings of work. These pics show some of the lines installed just hand tight. Ryan suggested the neoprene washers to center the copper lines inside a 1" hole in the belly pan to make sure the copper does not rub against the edges of the hole in the aluminum. When everything is tightened down, I'll screw the washers to the belly with the copper line centered in the hole. The first two photos are the runs to the furnace and stove on the street side and then running back under the axles to the water heater. The last photo shows a stub we installed for a BBQ just foward of the wheel well on the curb side. It has a shut off valve inline and the T going forward off the 1/2 line is the fridge supply in 3/8th.
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Old 05-07-2011, 10:23 PM   #203
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Looks real good, Norm.

Are you running individual shutoff valves for your appliances or are you planning on using caps should anything need to be unhooked?

Just started on mine with some inside hookups, but no lines run underneath yet.
Still need a snorkel to go under the trailer.

cheers,
steve
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Old 05-07-2011, 10:34 PM   #204
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1959 26' Overlander
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbearsailor View Post
Are you running individual shutoff valves for your appliances or are you planning on using caps should anything need to be unhooked?
I was going to put a shut off on the line for the stove, but there was not enough room in the stub outside the trailer. So, if something needs to be unhooked when I'm still using gas, I'll have to use caps. I did install a shut off for the BBQ feed.
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Old 05-08-2011, 04:16 AM   #205
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Once again Norm everything looks tight, clean and top notch. I haven't got to my gas lines hooked up. Jim (Jim and Susan) got my AC and DC figured out. I think things will start to move forward at a faster speed.

Norm give me the make and type of toilet you have. I need to buy a new one.

Brian
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Old 05-08-2011, 08:28 AM   #206
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Brian, it's the Sealand Traveler Lite low profile. Fits in the tiny corner bathroom area of our trailer's very well. Norm
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Old 05-08-2011, 08:10 PM   #207
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nmbosa View Post
I was going to put a shut off on the line for the stove, but there was not enough room in the stub outside the trailer. So, if something needs to be unhooked when I'm still using gas, I'll have to use caps. I did install a shut off for the BBQ feed.
Turns out I was wrong, there is enough room for a shut-off. I found these ready made 2" swivel connectors (to the left of the shut-off valve in this photo) which are comprised of about an inch of pipe with a flare nut at either end that allowed me to install the shut-off valve in the short distance between the T and where the line bends to go through the belly pan. The shortest stub I could fabricate was over twice as long. I'm really happy about being able to install a shut-off valve for the stove. I'm keeping the original Princess stove and when the knobs are turned on that stove, the gas flows. With two pairs of little hands in our trailer, I was worried one of them might occasionally turn the stove knobs when we are not looking. This way I can keep the gas supply to the stove off except when we need it for cooking.

I finished the last couple connections today, so all I need to do now is tighten everything down and test for leaks.
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Old 05-11-2011, 11:50 AM   #208
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Lost Time

I hate to think of all the hours I've lost on this project re-doing things that I thought were already finished. Last night I went to re-install the stove and discovered that I'd placed the kitchen cabinet 1" too far back from the edge of the countertop. As a result, the stove would not fit flush with the cabinet face. So, I had to partially disassemble the kitchen cabinet, move it forward one inch, and put everything back together. Burned up the entire evening taking things apart, but I got it all in the correct place and everything lines up now. I still need to screw everything back together including reattaching the countertop, but fortunately I did not have to actually remove the countertop, sink etc. I was able to just unscrew it from the cabinet base and slide the cabinet forward underneath the countertop. Whew.

I hope to have pictures of the stove in place with the burners lit soon.
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Old 05-12-2011, 11:15 PM   #209
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Back on Track

Everything is back where it's supposed to be and I got the stove re-installed. No fire yet, but getting closer.
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Old 05-13-2011, 09:48 AM   #210
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Looking good, Norm. I can't wait to get to the interior of my Overlander. Our Princess Stoves are the exact same color. Do you have the original refrigerator?
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Old 05-14-2011, 01:29 PM   #211
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Looking good, Norm. I can't wait to get to the interior of my Overlander. Our Princess Stoves are the exact same color. Do you have the original refrigerator?
I do have the original refrigerator, but I have not been able to get it to cool. It fires up no problem, but after leaving it fired up for two days, it never got cold. I tried "burping" it by turning it upside down overnight and back upright and I tried banging on the cooling unit, but no luck. So, I think it's a lost cause. I looked all over the country for anyone willing to replace the cooling unit, but no one seems to provide any parts, service or refurbishing for these units.

It's still sitting in my garage and may have parts that are useful to others (like you). If your interested, just let me know.
Norm
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Old 05-14-2011, 01:40 PM   #212
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Norm:

I have wiring for A.C. and D.C. for the Galley. I decided not to go with the original light that was under the cabinet over the sink and stove. I am thinking of using the AC and DC. going with two types of lights side by side. If I am boon docking I will use the DC lights and if I am hooked to electrical use the AC. I have the AC wiring and I could tie it off but I think I will hook it to lights. I have the converter and it would not be necessary for AC lights but what the heck.

Brian

What did you use for over your sink?

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Old 05-14-2011, 03:08 PM   #213
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Quote:
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Everything is back where it's supposed to be and I got the stove re-installed. No fire yet, but getting closer.
Norm ~ I believe your stovetop and oven door are suppose to be the same color. At least, that's what I've seen in the past on trailers of this era. Mine were the brown that's the same as your stovetop but I replaced both the oven door and stovetop to white courtesy of Frank's Trailer Works. I have a brown door for you if that is of interest to you although I really, really like the soft yellow color over the brown. You may be able to get the stovetop powder coated to match the oven door with a non-heat sensitive power coating.

Its really coming together nicely and I continually check in from time to time to keep up with your progress. One day, I hope to camp next to you and see this in person.

Brad
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Old 05-14-2011, 04:46 PM   #214
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Fridge

Quote:
Originally Posted by nmbosa View Post
I do have the original refrigerator, but I have not been able to get it to cool. It fires up no problem, but after leaving it fired up for two days, it never got cold.
Norm
Oh no! I'm still REALLY hoping our cools... but we haven't tried it yet.
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Old 05-14-2011, 06:11 PM   #215
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Norm ~ I believe your stovetop and oven door are suppose to be the same color.
That is correct. Mine was originally the brown that you had. I took the top and the oven door to a powder coating shop and they recommended against color on the stovetop because the colors are not rated for heat. The black is a muffler black that can withstand high heat. I was tempted to just do the stovetop in yellow anyways since I don't think it actually gets that hot. Maybe next time.

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Old 05-14-2011, 06:12 PM   #216
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Oh no! I'm still REALLY hoping our cools... but we haven't tried it yet.
Hook it up to a BBQ bottle and fire it up. You'll know pretty quick. I was really disappointed I couldn't get mine to work.
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Old 05-14-2011, 06:13 PM   #217
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What did you use for over your sink?

Brian
I still have not re-installed our old over sink light. We really don't like it much. Mary and I have been trying to find a nice replacement but have not found anything reasonably priced yet.
Norm
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Old 05-14-2011, 07:05 PM   #218
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Over sink light

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Originally Posted by Lothlorian View Post
Norm:
I decided not to go with the original light that was under the cabinet over the sink and stove.

Brian
Quote:
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I still have not re-installed our old over sink light. We really don't like it much.
To either one of you- I'm looking for an original over-the-sink light for our trailer.

What's up anyway? Why are you both ditching the light? Is it especially ugly or something? Just curious.
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Old 05-14-2011, 09:03 PM   #219
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Mine is a rusty beat up ugly thing. I tried to clean it up, but it's still pretty nasty.
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Old 05-14-2011, 09:26 PM   #220
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Mine is all rusty and there is a shade that goes inside it which is all dark yellow and nasty. I don't know what type of material the shade is made of. It was used to hide all the bulbs. To be honest we may go with it. My wife, son and I are restoring the trailer. My son is the one who wants to stay with all the orginal Lights. I already bought a new stove. Anything gas will be updated.

I also have installed a converter which will power all the DC.

Brian
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