'59 Overlander - And so it begins

[Al Uminum]

Yippee! My first VTS shipment has arrived; new Astradome, yards of gasket, and some new clearance lights.

The current clearance lights are adhered to the skin somehow. Any ideas anyone? Let's hope it's not the dreaded silicone. The lights appear to be factory original (if the rusted sockets are any indication).

I'm looking for some tips from those of us that have replaced their lights. I'm thinking heat gun?

[Alcoa Roller]

Your switch is for running the ceiling fan on either 12v batt power or 110v city. The old fans had a 110/12v ransforme built in to them. In 59 Airstreams did not have power converters in them. My 63 did not have a converter either. I think 64 or 65 was the first year for those. Nice rig BTW.

[Al Uminum]

Thank for the clarification about the mystery switch. The only thing that I found under the cabinets was the air compressor.

[nmbosa]

Great looking Overlander. Brings back memories of when we brought ours home five years ago. Looks like you are on the right track to figuring it all out.

Norm

[dbj216]

Sounds like a PO "caulked" your running lights to maybe solve a rain water leak problem. You can be less than careful with the old ones since you have new ones in the VTS box. I haven't found anything that will dissolve silicone. Lacquer thinner is a pretty good solvent for softening caulk.

Remove the lens. Remove any screws or rivets holding the base of the light to the trailer. And then get a thin plastic putty knife and carefully start prying the old light off. You don't want to scratch the aluminum. You don't have to worry if the old plastic light base breaks.

David

[Al Uminum]

Thanks Norm, I've read and re-read your thread and others. What a wealth of information in this forum! My wife really likes your dinette modification. Have you published any sketches?

David, the plastic putty knife sounds like a good idea. Off to the DIY store for more tools. When our granddaughter was very young I taught her the Tool Rules. Number four is "Never pass up the chance to buy a new tool."

[nmbosa]

Originally Posted by Al Uminum

Thanks Norm, I've read and re-read your thread and others. What a wealth of information in this forum! My wife really likes your dinette modification. Have you published any sketches?

I wish we did have some sketches. We need to finally get some cushions for the dinette and lost the measurements we took back in 2010.

While you are going about sealing things up, one of the most important things you can do is clean out all the seams and reseal them with Acryl R. The seams on my trailer leaked like a sieve when we first got it and you can't tell until you pull down all the interior skins and see the drip trails.

[Al Uminum]

Norm you are the voice of encouragement. No really. Who is your favorite Acryl R Vendor and how many cans? Inside seams? John (65cv) remarked on the hillbilly leak test. My list of repairs grows daily.

[Al Uminum]

As for the sealant behind the clearance lights, it appears to have been factory installed. Judicious use of a heat gun softened the goo to the point where I could use my new plastic putty knife to ease the light away from the skin. While it was still soft I was able to get the majority off. Mineral spirits wouldn't touch it but acetone cleaned it right up revealing the original sheen under the old light.

I don't have butyl tape on hand (yet) so I used a piece of aluminum tape to temporarily seal the 3/4" hole in the skin. The VTS lights fit perfectly but the materials sure are thinner.

To seal the lens to the base I used a very tiny bead of the dreaded silicone right on the edge of the plastic. A small gap on the bottom will allow any moisture to weep. I also put a little dab under the screw head that holds the lens on. Call me paranoid, but it's a little screw holding on my brand new lens.

[dbj216]

Very well done. I'll have to remember heat really helps soften the goop. I don't have a heat gun.... yet! What did you say about opportunity to buy a new tool?

And thanks for the pictures. They are very interesting and helpful. Worth the effort.

Your 59 has the tear drop running lights. Sharp. My 66 has the standard oval shaped ones. My bases were plastic and the lens just snaps on. But they were low cost and do the job!

David

[Minno]

Carb cleaner will clean up Vulkem, esp right after you put it on and smooth it. It will get old stuff off but takes more time and elbow grease.
Not all silicones are bad for aluminum. Some are ok to use, I'm told. Which ones, I'm not sure yet. The older stuff definitely ate aluminum for lunch. We had to patch the roof where the TV antennae went because it got so thin from silicone someone put up there and left for a looong time.

Kay

[nmbosa]

Originally Posted by Al Uminum

Norm you are the voice of encouragement. No really. Who is your favorite Acryl R Vendor and how many cans? Inside seams? John (65cv) remarked on the hillbilly leak test. My list of repairs grows daily.

I bought one can of Acryl R with the applicator from Airstream.com and it has been more than enough over the last several years. It is for the exterior seams. You will need a set if dental picks from Harbor Freight to clean out the old sealant from the seams and some xylene solvent for cleaning up any excess Acryl R. Start on the top where folks won't see the mess you make on the first few runs. By the time you get to the sides you will be an expert at laying down a perfect bead. Also make sure you have a high quality face mask with disposable filters. Xylene is really nasty.

[59ORLander]

Congrats on your fantastic looking Overlander! I too got a '59 this past Spring and have finally gotten it back home from a shop that got all bogged-down and couldn't do much for me other than check the electricals and Propane lines (which are all still good, thankfully)

I am amazed at how much variety there was from one of these to another. Mine is a twin too, but has a completely different stove layout, different overhead bin doors (ours is formica doors and wood surround), fridge/furnace setup, etc. Our furnace is upright on the left inside the door, with the fridge behind it facing the interior like yours does. We don't have the original fridge, though..

One question I have (and probably need to go back and read here) is about the mounts for the new Astradome. Is there an aftermarket bracket pair I should know about, or do I want to remove the old crusty ones and transplant them onto the new piece? I got stumped on that last night..

Thanks to anyone that wants to refresh my memory or point to a good link DIY!

[Al Uminum]

I've noticed different galley configurations. Is yours built in California? The bin doors may have been replaced in the past.

The Ladeau lifters are pretty rare so if you can salvage yours, I'd give it a try. They clean up pretty well with scotchbrite maroon and WD-40. My earlier post shows how to repair them if they don't spin correctly.

I'll be installing my new VTS Astradome tomorrow so I'll post some pictures of the results. I plan to make a small aluminum plate to sandwich the plastic to the hinge. Stainless steel rivets will hold it all together. Make certain that your hinges operate freely (more WD-40).

Do you have some photos posted of your Overlander?
Rob

[59ORLander]

Originally Posted by Al Uminum

I've noticed different galley configurations. Is yours built in California? The bin doors may have been replaced in the past.

The Ladeau lifters are pretty rare so if you can salvage yours, I'd give it a try. They clean up pretty well with scotchbrite maroon and WD-40. My earlier post shows how to repair them if they don't spin correctly.

I'll be installing my new VTS Astradome tomorrow so I'll post some pictures of the results. I plan to make a small aluminum plate to sandwich the plastic to the hinge. Stainless steel rivets will hold it all together. Make certain that your hinges operate freely (more WD-40).

Do you have some photos posted of your Overlander?
Rob

Thanks Rob. It is a California-build.

Yes, I'm lucky in that I have all the lifters, but haven't started soaking them or anything. I just scratch my head when looking at those crusty brackets and rivets and think about how to transplant them. It seems a lot of people have different ideas on how to do it. I do like the sandwich idea! I just need to dive in and get over the start-hump

I've got some pics posted in this link..

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f109...lp-118858.html

BTW, I made a great personal discovery last night while working on my smoke/nicotine stains on the Zolatone. I'd been using "purple cleaner" from the shop, to no avail, but have always tried Brake-Kleen when I want to really get the job done. Lowe and behold, it worked like a charm. Lot of ventilation is required, but it came off and left the surface REALLY nice and white It's going to be a lot of work, but I am 100% committed to just keeping this trailer as-is and original as possible. I like the patina/originality of these things and it seems so many are beyond the point where it can be kept very original.

I also am loving the original wood surround for the overhead bins and the formica slider doors, but am really stumped on the little 1 3/4" handles that go in the slider-door holes. Mine has been retrofitted with just a single knob on each end of the sliders.

[MarkR]

Originally Posted by 59ORLander

I also am loving the original wood surround for the overhead bins and the formica slider doors, but am really stumped on the little 1 3/4" handles that go in the slider-door holes. Mine has been retrofitted with just a single knob on each end of the sliders.

I think those knobs are original - as they look exactly like the ones from my '60 Tradewind, in exactly the same locations.

[59ORLander]

Originally Posted by MarkR

I think those knobs are original - as they look exactly like the ones from my '60 Tradewind, in exactly the same locations.

Sorry, I'm confused..you mean the round knobs look original to you? I have two holes on each end of the sliders. Did yours have two holes or just one? It appears mine needs handles that are just a lot shorter in length (space between the holes is 1 3/4" ) than the drawer handles throughout the rest of the trailer.

[MarkR]

In your thread, post number 10, bottom left corner photo, there are upper cabinets that show a knob. When I zoom in on that photo, on those knobs, they look exactly like the knobs my '60 Tradewind had on the upper cabinets above the kitchen and above the beds. I don't have a good photo, but I do still have the knobs and can take a picture of one if you like.

[59ORLander]

Originally Posted by MarkR

In your thread, post number 10, bottom left corner photo, there are upper cabinets that show a knob. When I zoom in on that photo, on those knobs, they look exactly like the knobs my '60 Tradewind had on the upper cabinets above the kitchen and above the beds. I don't have a good photo, but I do still have the knobs and can take a picture of one if you like.

Well I just had the light bulb go on the other night! I didn't realize the "other hole" was just for the nice brass screw holding the magnetic latch in place! The arrangement is random in mine so all I have to do is get a couple more magnets and get some more screws and arrange them all in order..Good greif, what was I thinking, lol!

Thanks!

[dbj216]

Here is what I believe is a 59 Overlander single axle. It was for sale last fall, but I passed as I was looking for a dual axle.

The galley picture may help you with yours.

David