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Old 11-21-2005, 07:24 PM   #57
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Right, I meant springs. They look awful nice.
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Old 11-21-2005, 07:25 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deluxe21
GT6921

You said you saw some 50's windows on "Airstream". I need a window that was crushed by a piece of flying tire tread while going camping . What did Airstream mean (Ebay???)?

Thanks
Steve
Hi Steve sorry about that yes - I must have Airstream on the brain.....yep I saw them on ebay - still listed with 1 day 2 hours left
http://search.ebay.com/airstream_eBa...W0QQsacatZ6000
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Old 11-21-2005, 07:29 PM   #59
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Thanks GT6921 I just took a look and I think one of them might work.

Thanks again
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Old 11-21-2005, 09:05 PM   #60
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Well I kinda didn't remove the body - the only place it was held on was the very front - I was then able to lift the body enough to slide the wood in - easier said than done.

The upper body is attached to the c channel with rivets - the c channel is bolted through the floor to the frame.

Mine went back together exactly how it was made and hopefully better - I used SS bolts and made washers out of 1/8 in steel - straps. Some of the bolts attach to the floor only, so thats where the steel starps come in - I hope it doesn't go anywhere. Top side I used round body washers.

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Old 11-21-2005, 10:11 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken J
Well I kinda didn't remove the body - the only place it was held on was the very front - I was then able to lift the body enough to slide the wood in - easier said than done.

The upper body is attached to the c channel with rivets - the c channel is bolted through the floor to the frame.
Sounds pretty cool how you put it all back together!

So, I'm still a little curious about how it all goes together and would like to know before I take it apart

When you say the front was still connected... how was it connected? Via bolts through the floor and frame, or is there some other type of connection that you did not want to undo? I'm assuming this was the case just to keep it from sliding off while you slipped the floor under...

Also, is the belly only connected to the body, and using only rivets?
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Old 11-22-2005, 08:47 AM   #62
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The front was only connected by rivets - all the bolts in the c channel were removed - as were the screws. It was pretty dicy - I did leave some loose bolts in the sides so that it would not fall off the frame - this method is probably not the best, but it was all I could do given the place I had to work on it. I was sure glad when it was all bolted back together. When I was working in there I thought at any moment the body could come crashing down on me - although was not to overly worried because I had it loosely attached on the sides...so I figured it would stay put - which it did.

The belly (underneath) is connected to the frame cross members ( not to the rails ) The wrap from the belly to the sides is attached to the c channel and to the outriggers. Basically everything is attached to that c channel.

When you take off the lower interior panels I think it will make a lot more sense to you - however, please don't hesitate to keep asking questions so that it become clear....

Ken
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Old 11-22-2005, 03:49 PM   #63
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Okay... I think it's all starting to come together in my mind. I tend to really try to understand something before I do it. For example, I wasn't able to drive a stick shift until I saw a diagram of how a clutch worked...

Yeah... as soon as I finish the arduous task of carefully removing the interior furniture, I will start removing the interior skin. Then, if I decide to replace the floor with the body on, like you did, I'll do it at home. Otherwise, I'm taking it to the barn so I can lift the body.
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Old 11-22-2005, 07:05 PM   #64
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I would say if you have a good place to work indoors, then lifting the body is best. That way you can pull the whole frame out, inspect it and make any repairs. If I had had any serious problems with my frame, I would have had to have a welder come out to me.

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Old 11-22-2005, 09:18 PM   #65
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Good point.... now, this may be a dumb question but, is it legal and/or safe to pull the trailer (frame) without a body or underbelly attached?
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Old 11-23-2005, 02:08 AM   #66
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I think the only issue would be lights. You could rig up something like this: http://store.uhaul.com/(q2hv3hyjjnp0...s.aspx?id=5411 .
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Old 11-23-2005, 06:15 AM   #67
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I've heard of folks getting a wrecked Airstream and removing the body to use as a utility trailer but without the body, it didn't have any strength. If you're just planning on relocating it, you should be fine. Just don't plan on using it to haul things around.

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Old 11-23-2005, 02:16 PM   #68
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LOL... I'm not going to haul anything on the frame! And chances are I wouldn't be towing it more than a few miles.

I'm still undecided on how to do my floor replacement. It would be so convenient to do it at home, but the work would probably be harder. It would be much easier to do it at the barn, but then I'd have to take a week vacation in order to have the time. Hmmmm.... I guess I still have a month or two to decide on that as I continue to remove the furniture and interior skin.
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Old 11-23-2005, 03:53 PM   #69
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I did mine in a sheep barn with poor light - what a pain that was - fighting hungry farm animals........I had rented space from a local rancher, price was right, so I guess I can't complain....

Ken
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Old 11-25-2005, 08:15 PM   #70
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New front end.....

I had a new hitch and new jack put on - now all the running gear is new.

I'll paint the tonque when the weather gets warmer.......


Ken
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