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Melody Ranch · 07-28-2013, 12:19 PM

Fit the lights, riveting in the wall panels, working around to the door where the gasket will happen.

Melody Ranch · 07-28-2013, 05:02 PM

riveting the panels is a bit more time intensive than I planned. Tweaking the fit so the rivet holes line up is the bad part. The LED lighting works fine with the new Optima battery and I put the beauty rings on the wheels.

RankAm · 07-29-2013, 08:02 AM

Robin, what can you tell us about your wheels, rings, and caps? They look very nice, and they look close to vintage. I have the original baby moons from my 56 FC, but I am not sure they are salvageable or will fit on a new wheel. Hank.

Melody Ranch · 07-29-2013, 08:41 AM

The wheels are 15inch, Dexters, from Redneck RV Supply in Dallas. I get my local horse trailer guy to order them for me. I think they are 30 or 35 dollars and come in grey or black. The caps are from the same trailer guy. 10 dollars each. They come in different diameters so make sure they are the ones for the wheel. These caps also have enough "cone" to clear the axle hub. The beauty rings are stainless generic hot rod rings....

Air Cruiser · 07-29-2013, 09:02 AM

About the rivet holes................you know so much about all of this, I feel silly trying to come up with a solution, but here goes. How about if you had another pair of hands to help hold the skin and you could either: 1) Hold the new one up beside the rib and place a mark where the hole should be and later decide how far in to drill (say, 1/2" to 3/4" overlap). Thinking about it, if you already had a chalk line on it for the inset for the overlap, you could even just use a punch or awl to mark for your rivet. 2) This one would be really tricky, but if you had something "smeared" around each rivet hole and you could place the new skin right in place over top to mark where the hole should be drilled. I've had to do this in my work before for two or three holes, but haven't tried dozens. As I said, this one could be tricky if you let it slip.

Deb

FC7039 · 07-30-2013, 06:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Melody Ranch

The wheels are 15inch, Dexters, from Redneck RV Supply in Dallas. I get my local horse trailer guy to order them for me. I think they are 30 or 35 dollars and come in grey or black. The caps are from the same trailer guy. 10 dollars each. They come in different diameters so make sure they are the ones for the wheel. These caps also have enough "cone" to clear the axle hub. The beauty rings are stainless generic hot rod rings....

Are they 5 on 5 1/2 bolt pattern?

Melody Ranch · 07-30-2013, 06:29 AM

I have standardized....all my Airstreams are 6 on 5 1/2.

Melody Ranch · 07-30-2013, 06:33 AM

Here you go Deb.DRILLING AND HOLE PREPARATION

http://www.skygeek.com/strap-duplicator.html

FC7039 · 07-30-2013, 06:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Melody Ranch

I have standardized....all my Airstreams are 6 on 5 1/2.

in 1950 they used a 5 bolt pattern. These seem harder to find.

Melody Ranch · 07-30-2013, 07:45 AM

It is just a matter of ordering. They have your choice.

Air Cruiser · 07-30-2013, 07:47 AM

Wow, thank you Robin! I've printed that off and will sit down to give it a read.

Since I haven't read the entire file yet, only bits and pieces, I can only assume the duplicator is for the marking of the new sheet/skin? OMG, what a useful tool.............and I love tools and gadgets! I imagine the file will explain the various sizes of the duplicators, hopefully.

Deb

Air Cruiser · 07-30-2013, 08:20 AM

From the details on the website, I can't tell how you know which strap duplicator you need; I don't see how you can tell what diameter rivet hole the tool fits. I do see they are numbered, but it's like: 51 #40; 52 #30; 53 #21; and 55 #12. I'm also assuming the 6" length is the one we'd use and not the 12", and not the inverted.

Maybe the numbering/sizes has to do with the distance the two ends are apart? That it would accomodate the various thickness of layers.

That last falls into another question I have...........When we ordered our riveting equipment from VTS, I stated that I thought we were going to install some plywood over top of aluminum skins for the interior (in places), and was told that we'd need to use Olympic rivets for that. Do the Olympic rivets have a longer shank on them to go through the thickness of the plywood, aluminum and on into the rib? Or perhaps a larger rivet head to have more "holding" ability so as not to pull through, or perhaps both?

Sorry for asking you all these questions, you seem so knowledgeable about all of this, but I realize it takes up your time to respond and I do greatly appreciate your help.

I guess I can call them and ask all this when I'm ready to order.

Thanks again, Robin as I'd have had no idea that something like this was available.

Deb

Melody Ranch · 07-30-2013, 08:51 AM

I am guessing that the Olympic rivets were recommended because of the larger bearing surface....required to keep the rivet from pulling thru the wood. Many times a washer is placed under the head to expand that surface.

The hole finder is used by slipping it over the sheet metal The little titty is inserted into the hole to be duplicated. The top of the finder has a fitting on it with a matching hole, aligned with the arm below. You now drill thru that hole , remove the finder, and voila.....a matched, aligned hole for the new rivet.

Air Cruiser · 07-30-2013, 09:14 AM

This seems like it would really simplify the process! I am so glad you mentioned these. I can see, tho, that it will not be something to expect to go out and get accomplished in a day, very time consuming.

Deb

Melody Ranch · 07-30-2013, 04:24 PM

Bump meaning a problem. I spent all day installing the main door seal. I used the original style...rivet it between skins. It looks great. It does not let the door close. It really forces the door alignment..???? I can drill out all those rivets again, pull the seal, re rivet and use an edge cover and a new seal on the door. A definite pain in the derrier. After that I still have to rebuild the main door assembly and a new bronze screen for the door..

rumrunner · 07-30-2013, 07:23 PM

Air Cruiser, if you haven't figured it out by now the #40, #30, #21 and #10 refer to the drill sizes for the standard airstream rivets. Read a few of Aerowoods rivet threads and you will soon be less confused (I hope).
Robin, say it aint so on the door seals. I am coming up on that job soon so PLEASE keep us all posted. Hopefully a couple of days on that bright Texas sunshine will soften them enough to fit better. Dont forget a little silicone spray to keep them from sticking too.
Still jealous of you "pod" of whale tails

tim

Melody Ranch · 07-30-2013, 07:39 PM

I got cleaned up, cold shower, a Wild Turkey and went back to the Red Barn to look at the door seal again. It just won't work. Nothing wrong with the installation that I can see. When I force the door closed it warps so much as to strike the body door frame. That wont do. Tomorrow AM back at it.

Air Cruiser · 07-31-2013, 08:32 AM

Oh, that's really not good; and now there are those holes. That must have been a sinking feeling. I worry about things like this. We will be coming up onto getting our door sealed sometime in the Fall or before (hopefully), but we also have some work to do on our door, it looks as tho it was bent on the bottom.

And Rumrunner, thanks for the information on what the numbering is concerning, I thought it was probably something like that.

Deb

Melody Ranch · 07-31-2013, 11:56 AM

I moved over to the other side of the door. Pulled the skin so I could clean (OCD) and re insulate it. This also gave me a lot of visual time to agonize on the seal problem.

Two things of interest maybe...?
Do you have ANY idea on how much, and what type of, crud is inside that door. You will be surprised.

This is the week where you DO NOT want to have the Airstream anywhere near a Pecan tree. They are showering with that sticky sap. It is particularly bad on polish jobs.