View Poll Results: What do you think the bubble "dry" and tongue weight results were on 2/18/11?
2,054 lbs total 253 lbs tongue 4 33.33%
2,332 lbs total 312 lbs tongue 5 41.67%
2,560 lbs total 386 lbs tongue 2 16.67%
2,745 lbs total 390 lbs tongue 1 8.33%
Voters: 12. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 09-12-2010, 07:08 PM   #113
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544,

Nice work. Not sure why you don't want antifreeze in pump and lines. (Not Tank! of course). I would think if you blow out your lines, and disconnect the pump lines, at the pump, you'd be fine. Most of the water will run out of the pump on a rag and the rest will evaporate. There are just rubber diaphragms inside and the small amount left wouldn't expand enough to hurt anything. Run it dry for about 15 seconds and almost all of the water will come out in your rag. Don't think you would have to pull the whole pump. Wasn't there a statement in the pump installation manual which said not to mount vertically? Can't remember if that was for a SureFlo or a Aquajet. They do make a valve kit to pull antifreeze from the bottle on the suction side of the pump and thus eliminating the tank. That is my preferred method for many years. A good flushing in the spring and I have never had any residual taste, ever.
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Old 09-12-2010, 07:26 PM   #114
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water pump stuff

hey thanks for the good info. the pump is a shureflow and the manual does say that I can mount it vertically (but with the pump portion down in case there's ever a leak so the motor won't get any moisture). As far as the Antfreeze--I gues it's because i can still taste it from my parents shasta growing up. They must have more discreet/tasteless formulas now? I figured the same on the blowing out the lines and letting things dry. And since it's pex line--i'm not worried about any residual in the lines. I have a couple unions on each side of the pump so it will be easy to pull the lines off without messing with the sharkbite fittings. Maybe i'll do the blow and go thing and leave the pump. Here in Oregon we didn't even get a snow last year but we did get 2 weeks of freezing weather. thanks for your input--i'll take your advice.
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Old 09-12-2010, 08:10 PM   #115
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Did your dad use green stuff or pink stuff back in the day? By the way, I see they are (or were before the current economy) making retro Shastas again.
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Old 09-12-2010, 10:35 PM   #116
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antifreeze

I can't even remember which type--just that we kids sure never drank the water--it seemed to be only for washing dishes. That was a long tome ago--but some things never leave your senses. regards--ted
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Old 09-13-2010, 09:31 AM   #117
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Paper Template

Quote:
Originally Posted by the544man View Post
I've seen some pretty elaborate bed supports on the forum--but I think i'm going to keep this extremely simple. With such a small piece of plywood needed for the rear bed, I just can't see that good plywood is going to flex that much at all (and if i find it does i can add a support in the middle). I'm planning to use a kreg drill system and screw 6-8 2"x4"'s with the backs routed out for the water and electrical conduits.

This way my storage will be clutter free of supports. I'm planning on using 3/4" birch ply (at only 15 lbs more maybe than 1/2 " I think the stiffness is worth such measly weight gain) and screw them down to the supports. Along the back near the exterior hatch I have a support strip and the inside hatch frame has an intergrated frame for support. The only challege will be cutting a perfectly curved ply top and setting it down with the cabinets in and all. Do you see any problems with this? cheers--ted
Paper templates can be used to check your measurements and make up a pattern.
No matter how many times I cut that board, it was still to short, or was it cut 3 times, measure once, I get confused sometimes.
I would like a support in the middle but I have crazy dogs and wild kids. Or is that wild dogs and crazy kids?
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Old 09-13-2010, 12:27 PM   #118
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support for bed

fastrob,
yes--i've used a lot of carboard for templates too. and--I was thinking last night that a couple small pieces of angle iron streached out from front to back on both sides of the inside hatch access (and one across the inside of that same hatch) would give me the support without the scafolding mess underneath. I could just bolt them to 2x4 edge supports. It would be easy to designing a trick looking wooden bed frame but it's going to be out of site and just in the way. I'm really wanting to have the biggest storage underneath that i can--1'm going to need a place for some folding chairs, you know--stuff, and/or the trailer spare. Any more thoughts? ted
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Old 09-13-2010, 01:24 PM   #119
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I like what you've done there, but I would go for a slightly thinner ply, and have two cross-pieces running either side of that front hatch. That would minimize the bowing of the ply, knock off several pounds of weight in the back of your trailer, etc. I'd also put some felt on the supports, to prevent creaks and squeaks.
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Old 09-13-2010, 05:49 PM   #120
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bed design

Good advice-- dave --on the felt to illiminate sqweaks--I'll definitely do something like that. I also have thought about a thinner plywood thickness too since i'm now going to do more support. 5/8" may work fine. I just picked up 3 four foot pieces of 12 gauge angle iron for support. The solid one will go across the front hatch (and be hidden behind the top frame) The ply will also sit right on top of the hatch frame. but the iron will bear all the weight when you sit on the edge of the bed. Then i think i'm going to use 2 lighter drilled out--but still 12 gauge pieces that will span the not perfect middle front to back. The metal pieces are not all that heavy and will make it very sturdy without losing my storage space. i'm really not real concerned with adding 15 lbs here for a sturdy bed plus better storage. I really don't think i'd like ramming stuff into a stick framed bed support in the storage area. rememebr this is a 13 foot trrailer on the inside! I don't get the locker room you get on those 31 footers. my thoughts are that with this rear bed design the biggest piece of plywood between supports will be only 4' x 3' 10". that will not flex with 2 people sleeping (or not) or a couple unsupervised kids jumping on it.

can you think of anything else? Thanks for the input everyone. ted
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Old 09-14-2010, 10:36 AM   #121
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Still undecided on rear bed support

Back and forth---I'm still toying with an idea of making a small cubby for the inside hatch access only. That was my in original plan but I changed my mind-- a few times. In that case--I would go with a frame build which would give plenty of support in the middle and give an extra dedicated interior storage spot rather than the "great room" storage. i'd lose that big space for large objects and the spare tire. I suppose i could build a adapter for the spare on the rear bumper--or strap it to my tow van roof rack. What would you guys do? I wish I could pack the bubble up to see what would really work best but that's not feasible, practical, or fun, and all the gear is not on hand yet. cheers and thanks for the input--ted
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Old 09-16-2010, 10:38 AM   #122
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retro deco scounces

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ID:	110863 take a look at these vintage scounces. I'd prefer something in brushed nickel rather than chrome--but i like the smaller projection, the fact that they have a sealed shade, and they would still give some uplighting. I'm still searching for something for overhead on both sides of the dinette. Since it's just a few inches from a taller persons head--typical reading lights and bigger projection shades just won't work. I've been linked to a couple sites on the forum but i havn't been smitten by anything yet. these might be a bit too "bathroomie"? what do you think. any more ideas or suppliers? regards--ted
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Old 09-16-2010, 10:46 AM   #123
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They look cool enough but I'll bet those glass lenses are heavy making them prone to becoming unattached and falling off. Would make a nice dent in all of your hard work just before breaking and leaving glass shards all over the floor.

Brad
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Old 09-16-2010, 11:00 AM   #124
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I read thrugh the thread and didn't see mention of the species of wood used. It looks like Quartersawn White Oak to me. Looks fantastic.
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Old 09-16-2010, 11:04 AM   #125
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i know what you mean on the glass. so many scounces have pointy projections coming down that would spear your head. i think that would be worse! I am converting all lighting to 12 volt so i need something that I can throw those 12 volt conversion bulbs in. it seems alot of the tiny scounces have those funky bulbs in that can't be converted. I'm thinking i need a bigger bulb. I can't think that 2 typical, say car--cabin- overhead mini bulbs would give ebough light at the front. i think i can live with 4" of projection on a light but no more. another one similar to these scounces are the "otis" on rejuvunation hardware. it's a little smaller than these but not much.
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Old 09-16-2010, 11:05 AM   #126
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mr craftsman--yes you're right on the quartersawn oak. the classic look for a bubble bungalow right. cheers
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