View Poll Results: What do you think the bubble "dry" and tongue weight results were on 2/18/11?
2,054 lbs total 253 lbs tongue 4 33.33%
2,332 lbs total 312 lbs tongue 5 41.67%
2,560 lbs total 386 lbs tongue 2 16.67%
2,745 lbs total 390 lbs tongue 1 8.33%
Voters: 12. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 06-07-2010, 11:36 PM   #57
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1956 16' Bubble
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Gravity fed fresh water tank

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I have the small 12 gallon tank plumbed in. I'm using the original fill port from the exterior. You can see that the tank fits right next to the fill inlet under the fridge side cabinet. I'll install a right angle brass fitting on the outlet and run the 1/2" pex line tight to the wall back around and under the future rear bed. I've decided to put the water pump right under the sink as i've brought in a "campground fed" water line in through the floor that will link in between the pump and bar faucet.

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Old 06-08-2010, 08:24 AM   #58
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This trailer looks fantastic! Your design is top notch. Congratulations!
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Old 06-09-2010, 03:20 PM   #59
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thanks and plywood thickness for rear bed

thanks for the encouragement. I have a question for everyone. What do you think is better? I'm thinking of building a very light support system for the rear bed and using a bit heavier 3/4" plywood as the bed so there is not a lot of flex. I like a sturdy bed. Or opition 2: I realize i could go with 5/8" ply but then it would need more support inside and I would perhaps end up with a bit more clumbsy storage area. Seems like the weight differences would even out either way don't you think? any thoughts on that? I'm going to have under bed access from the exterior hatch and an interior hatch. cheers--ted
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Old 06-12-2010, 06:46 PM   #60
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1956 16' Bubble
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Fresh Water tank plumbed and strapped in!

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I made a strap out of some rigid alluminum yesterday. 2 screws at each point to the floor and rivoted together at the brace intersection--pretty easy but kind of a a fun and cool thing to make. i like how it holds the tank solid-- so that in the future--when it's full and weighs 96lbs and i'm flying down the road--I don't want any movement or jarring to stress the fittings. the cabinet side slides back to the wall and flush to the end of the tank so no strapping is needed to keep it from going in that direction.

then it took a right angled brass pex fitting and plumbed in a shutoff valve before sending the pex line to the rear of the trailer. It was easy to make 2 small notches in the back of the cabinet so the pex line can be attatched to the trailer wall. I've seen that alot of people put their water lines on the floor-- i'd rather have it out of the way of the storage under the cabinets and especially in the big hatch in the rear. I'm keeping it down far enough that it won't interfere with the build of the rear bed. I will be giving up the small area under the sink when the water pump is hooked up on the floor. but the rest will be clutter free. cheers--friends!

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Old 07-07-2010, 03:56 PM   #61
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hello after a few weeks--i just rebuilt my door yesterday as i found my remaining door lock parts from ed--thanks ed. I'll get some pictures on here again soon. Oh--and last week i installed an original hehr vent fan I found on ebay. i'm currently waiting on my countertop material so that's the next thing on the block. cheers--ted
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Old 07-07-2010, 06:58 PM   #62
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pics of progress

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ID:	106450 here's the rarest airstream lock finally fully installed--the bargman H20!

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ID:	106451 A pic of the 12 volt hehr vent fan with original screen (note: after soaking the lifting handle mechanisms for a month in pb blaster and wd40, and spending at least 3 hours trying to get the ball bearings to release--i finally got them off last week so i could do the install)--note to my future grandkids in say 30 years?--i installed a heavy gauged electrical wire to the fan if you ever live in the east coast and need to install a roof top ac unit.

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ID:	106452 the door side dinette hatch complete. it will make for easy access without stepping into the trailer.

thank you for your continued tips and positive responses! ted
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Old 07-10-2010, 09:35 PM   #63
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door within a door....in!

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ID:	106576 I made a sceen for the door within using alluminum framing and alluminum screen. I wanted to create a screen that can be replaced rather than just stretching screen behind the metal panels. Since the interior metal is rivoted to the door frame--in the old design--if you get 1 snag you're drilling out all of the rivots and tearing the door apart again . so once i had the screen sized up--i "dremeled" the slots for my custom made alluminum "male" latch which goes through the screen frame and the vintage trailer style aluminum sliding bolt mechanism on the inside holds it tight. I'll put up more pictures of the interior of the door soon--i ran out of rivots so i'd rather have a complete picture online here. and i picked up the formic tonight so that's going on the countertops tomorrow--- i hope! cheers--ted

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Old 07-12-2010, 12:38 PM   #64
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countertops 2/3 done!

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ID:	106677 here's a pic of the dinette countertop i finished yesterday. I have the fridge side countertop done and will do the stove/sink side next weekend. I have the day off so i'm thinking about going out to get some stain matched today. Cheers!

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Old 07-19-2010, 12:00 AM   #65
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cabinets stained & sealed!

I had a good time staining the cabinet frames, doors, and hatches the last couple days. I pulled the smaller stove/sink cabinet out of the trailer as it's easy to get out and i want to do the formica top outside so i can let all of the dust from the router fly. I moved the car out and set up shop in the shop to do the staining and sealing.
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i stained the larger cabinet inside the trailer since the countertop and alluminum edge banding is complete--and it's a tight fit.
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After the staining of the cabs i sealed everything--including the oak paneling with 2 coats of antique oil finish. I have always liked using the product as a sealer as it's easy to use and it absorbes into the wood to seal and protect it verses just laying on top of the wood in a thick mass like polyurathanes. the oil finish brought the paneling back to life. I am high as a kite though--that's some strong stuff when applying in a small trailer!

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Old 07-19-2010, 10:35 AM   #66
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So beautiful. The oil & stain really bring out the depth of color in the graining.
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Old 07-19-2010, 11:40 AM   #67
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endcap picture

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ID:	107041 here's another shot after the interior was finished in antique oil. cheers
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Old 07-19-2010, 02:13 PM   #68
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Ted, Its really coming together! Glad the door handle parts worked well. Really looks sharp. I think you will be happy with the screen modification, the first time it gets a tear in it. Keep up the excellent work. Ed
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Old 07-19-2010, 04:59 PM   #69
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latch / doorstop

thanks ed--have you ever come across anyone who sells a new door stop/latch (the one that holds the door within the door to the exterior wall of the trailer when it's open and when the main door is closed)? also the part that attatches to the door itself. i could probably buff mine up and paint it or send it off to get dipped in chrome but i don't want to unless i have to. it's pretty ugly right now in the box. It seems like an improvement could be made becasue it looks like the latch keeps the door from running into the side trailer light only when you have the latch engaged. if you just open the door without manually latching it-- the door would swing right into the wall of the trailer at the running light. has anyone offered good imrpoovements to this design? (my parts are still in a box so i've only eyed this up holding the pieces there. I was originally waiting to see if Vintage Trailer Supply was going to finally get these parts in (but it sounds like they are not as the factory made measurement errors in drilling out the holes). any advice on that?--ted
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Old 07-19-2010, 09:26 PM   #70
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interior door rebuild pictures--before and after

before....
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panel's pulled apart, rivot's drilled out, no lock, no handle, no screen, latches broken, and the legendary ugly "porta-potty" flaking paint.

and

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ID:	107105 re-insulated, lock rebuilt, panels repaired, screen door built, latches customized and installed, painted, and revited with olympic rivots.

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ID:	107106 With all of the rich looking wood inside--i thought i'd go for an industrial rivoted hatch effect. When the "door within" is open for the breeze and the main door closed you get the standard alluminum look on the outside. cheers.
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