View Poll Results: What do you think the bubble "dry" and tongue weight results were on 2/18/11?
2,054 lbs total 253 lbs tongue 4 33.33%
2,332 lbs total 312 lbs tongue 5 41.67%
2,560 lbs total 386 lbs tongue 2 16.67%
2,745 lbs total 390 lbs tongue 1 8.33%
Voters: 12. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 05-17-2010, 08:39 PM   #29
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1956 16' Bubble
Dallas , Oregon
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Interior Progress--Cabinet Frames are in!

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Yesterday we got the cabinet frames in. We (Murray and I) left all of the doors and drawers off so I can do all of the plumbing and electrical runs through easily. Starting to look like a trailer interior now isn't it. To the right of the fridge is where I'll install my all in one progressive dynamics poser converter that handles both the shore power and all 12 volt needs. The electric wire in the back will run through a top cabinet (yet to be installed for my original hehr vent fan I got on ebay--(yet to be installed as well)--the gauge of wire will satisfy any future desires for a rooftop ac unit. I think they are a bit ugly and bulky on small vintage trailers but i understand their place for those who live in the hot humid midwest or east coast. Oregon has some natural 50 degree nights even when it gets in the 90's in the day.
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here's a look in the door.
here you can see the discreet vintage outside power outlet i put in last week by the door too.
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And just today, the princess stove and elkay bar sink was roughed into the countertop. I won't drop the units in for good until the laminate is put on the top near the end of the project--to minimize scratches during the process. Good job on the cabinet build Murray--they're are looking great. Wait till you see them with the drawers and doors on--I think it's some quartersawn eye candy.
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Old 05-17-2010, 09:45 PM   #30
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1956 16' Bubble
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Exterior Pics

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It was fun pulling the trailer out of the shed yesterday to have the room to load the cabinets through the door (the rubber gasket on the door is so you can sqeeze everything in with scraping it right!) we had less than a 1/4" clearence side to side to work with on the larger cabinet). while i had it out I took some other angled pics. notice the hole in the door--i'm still looking for the original bargman H20 lock to finish that off. help please.

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I like a black bumper and hitch. Hopefully you purist out there won't object to the change i made. I think it adds a bit and gives the trailer better definition. And I have new baggage compartment cam locks coming to install all the way around.

ps--that's a power converter mis-spell above in the last post--my eyes are getting bad and my typing is worse
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Old 05-17-2010, 10:11 PM   #31
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1956 16' Bubble
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Dinette Details are next

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I made up a mock dinette table (the one on the bottom) out of scrap plywood so i could get all of the hardware installed correctly on the trailer wall. I was able to catch 2 support alluminum braces for the lower section and attatched the top hardware just below the window for the strength from the bracing offered there. it is very sturdy. As you can see, i decided to go with a more agressive radius (see the example on top) to make getting into the seating area easier. I'll take the hardware off the mock up and re-attatch (without trim and laminate yet) soon. then I can finish the details for the dinette seating/bed to the specs where the table drops down. I have the foldable leg that will be intstalled on the finished product. the one there now is just for trial purposes. Anyone who has had a lot of experience building dinettes--send me your advice. I'm thinking about squaring off the seat backs (by 4 inches) so i can have a squared off 18" x 24" seat back coushin which will also serve as the bed portion over the table when dropped. The curvature of the front is a challenge to work with. Even if i do this i'll still have a 6' 2" bed--which will work fine for kids especially. Any suggestions?
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Old 05-17-2010, 10:45 PM   #32
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1966 17' Caravel
Corvallis , Oregon
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I agree with your thoughts about the air conditioner. Last year I had the 5 year-old, low profile dometic a/c removed from our 1966 Caravel. We like the new look.
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Old 05-18-2010, 06:35 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the544man View Post
Attachment 101536 WANTED--the shaft and hardware that goes with a bargman H20 door lock. Let me know if you have one. This is what they look like. I will also need the hardware that keeps the shaft into the lock. Cheers.
the544man

You can get the handle, spring at Bargman H20-2 Handle the square stock can be bought at any local hardware, then cut to size.

Very nice picture of handle..........

toastie
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Old 05-19-2010, 10:36 AM   #34
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1956 16' Bubble
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lock needs

yes--steve at vintage supply--has the handle and spring--but i'm told there is a host of other items i need--mainly the special keeper pins at both ends of the shaft to hold everything in. I'm more comfortable finding a replacement setup as I don't want to rivot the door all back together and find that it doesn't work properly a year later. And i don't want to red-neck the trailer and put a lock on the outside from a closet door. I'm still hopeful I can come across the parts or an entire lock setup? cheers
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Old 05-19-2010, 12:37 PM   #35
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1958 26' Overlander
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I've rebuilt a couple of these H2O-2 door handles as I have a 58 double door. Toastie is correct about the VTS stuff. I used one of their handles it comes with one metal pin for the handle but you would need a second metal pin. The square metal post is a hardware store item. Do you have all of the rest of the door lock that resides inside the door? Not clear on what pieces you are missing. I have seveal components including a rechromed handle. Your welcome to PM me. N2batr
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Old 05-19-2010, 03:39 PM   #36
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1956 16' Bubble
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N2batr--yes i have the internal lock, a new oem lock cylinder, an extrerior garnish (pics on page 2 i think_) or cover plate, and the internal handle, so i just need an external handle, the shaft, spring, and the pins and any other hardware necessary for keeping it attached to the internal lock at both ends of the shaft. do you have all that i need--if so what condition is it all in and what do you want for it? do you have a picture of how the shaft is held into the lock itself? cheers--ted

ps--vintage trailer has a complete setup but won't sell it as he hopes to someday have everything copied and cast so he can manufacture the whole setup. that could be a long time?
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Old 05-19-2010, 06:22 PM   #37
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Ted, Got your PM. I'll contact you to see if I might have what's needed. I may have photos from when I broke the doors down. Ed
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Old 05-19-2010, 06:33 PM   #38
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I justy did it all

Got some photos for friends and Forum members. Can these help/ Believe me....it was not easy to do it right.n
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Old 05-19-2010, 07:26 PM   #39
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thanks for the pics

excellent--i see i need everything to the right of the coverplate on the upper right picture. (main shaft, pin, washers, pin for handle, spring, handle). I talked to Ed tonight--it sounds like he might have the parts i need.
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Old 05-19-2010, 08:26 PM   #40
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Thumbs up The missing parts!

Ted, Checked my box of lock parts and I believe I have what you seek! I want to check my local hardware and see if they carry the correct size square center post( I need a backup for my 2 doors) Hopefully your door dilemma is close to an end. Ed
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Old 05-19-2010, 08:40 PM   #41
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you need to....

Take the lock box to the hardware store. Over the years the brass part that the square stock fits into wears and gets sloppy. I found that key stock was what worked...very close...then I used a small triangle file to square off the corners in the brass for a tight fit. The big problem is then finding the right place to drill a hole for the roll pin to hold the lock in place. Shimmed with a few washers worked. Then figuring the final length of the bar so that you can fit it all together within the door. It was a time consuming job.
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Old 05-24-2010, 01:39 AM   #42
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1956 16' Bubble
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I've have the dinette planned out so it should be done by the end of the week. I'm in the process of thinking and rethinking how i want to run my pex water lines and where i'll place my pump--i'm thinking of putting the pump under the sink since it's smaller and i can keep the other hatch by the wheel well on the fridge side gear-free. it's a challenge to process the whole project at once even though i have my plans on paper--when you get around to driling holes you want to take your time!
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