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Old 11-04-2007, 05:20 PM   #29
dnrtheil
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Profile:  1964 24' Tradewind
Portage , Michigan
Posts: 210
Images: 23

IKE and NIXON

Oh my gosh - how absolutely perfect. I love it!!!

Derek is going through our receipts to find phone numbers of the axle and tire locales. I'll PM you with those when we locate 'em.

A couple of weeks ago we considered a '54 Safari for about a nano-second. Oh all right, I considered it for a couple of days. Interior was painted all in beige gloss paint. Completely. Wall, floors, ceiling, cabinets, etc. Egad.

I decided the price was a a bit too much, especially considering the work we still need to do on Felix. But you got one hell of a deal, wish we could come across something like that.

Let me know if you want us to show up in grungy work clothes to help with the rebuild. We loooooovvvvvveee that kind of work.
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Old 11-04-2007, 05:33 PM   #30
drag'nwagon
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Profile:  1974 31' Sovereign
1956 26' Cruiser Overlander
Lambertville , Michigan
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Renee,

Thank you for the offer to come help, I hope to take you up on that. Also thanks Derek for looking into his old receipts for me. We anticipate quite a lot of work on this one, but we were both pleased with the completeness of the unit. I hope to have it towable in a couple months and maybe by spring it can come out and play as a glorified tent. I will be looking for your PM's.
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Old 11-04-2007, 07:30 PM   #31
Airboss
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Profile:  1997 30' Limited
1972 23' Safari
1965 17' Caravel
Howell , Michigan
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So is it going to be "I LIKE IKE"??? Nice find Dave and Rhonda.. Tnx for the phone call about it too.. Looks like another axel job in the drive way to me...
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Old 11-04-2007, 07:47 PM   #32
InsideOut
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Profile:  1964 19' Globetrotter
1956 22' Safari
Only Airstreamer in Edgewater , Colorado
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The only bummer about our '56 and 'dropping the belly pan' is the way it's all connected. IF you remove the rivets to drop the belly, they are the same rivets that hold the shell onto the frame. So, you have to either leave the belly and skin attached or cut the belly pan off and reattach a new larger one so you can overlap where you cut. Does this make sense? If you want to see what a '56 Safari frame looks like without a floor, check out my "It's a Girl!" thread...yours, while longer will be similar.

Good luck & have fun! How are you going to get it home with a broken tongue?

Shari
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Old 11-04-2007, 08:00 PM   #33
Ken J
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Profile:  1958 26' Overlander
Tijeras , New Mexico
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Yes a frame can be pieced together - I had to do that on a couple of cross members the some PO hacked out.

You can also beef up the frame to put those tanks in - much easier than building a whole new frame, although that is been done numerous times

Ken J
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Old 11-04-2007, 08:19 PM   #34
drag'nwagon
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Profile:  1974 31' Sovereign
1956 26' Cruiser Overlander
Lambertville , Michigan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InsideOut
The only bummer about our '56 and 'dropping the belly pan' is the way it's all connected. IF you remove the rivets to drop the belly, they are the same rivets that hold the shell onto the frame. So, you have to either leave the belly and skin attached or cut the belly pan off and reattach a new larger one so you can overlap where you cut. Does this make sense? If you want to see what a '56 Safari frame looks like without a floor, check out my "It's a Girl!" thread...yours, while longer will be similar.

Good luck & have fun! How are you going to get it home with a broken tongue?

Shari
Shari,

My plan is to flat bed it over to a friend/vendor of mine that has about 50K sq ft to play with and an awesome fabricator on staff. At that point I think we can get it stable towable and get it home and then do the rest here. As for the belly pan, can you cut it say..5 inches to the inside underneath and then replace with a "smaller" pan riveted together under the trailer? I noticed in your thread that you had a bunk? By any chance do you still have it and would like to free yourself of it?
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Old 11-04-2007, 08:20 PM   #35
drag'nwagon
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1956 26' Cruiser Overlander
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken J
Yes a frame can be pieced together - I had to do that on a couple of cross members the some PO hacked out.

You can also beef up the frame to put those tanks in - much easier than building a whole new frame, although that is been done numerous times

Ken J
Ken,

I like yoiur ideas, I assume that frame access is gained by removing the floor?
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Old 11-04-2007, 08:21 PM   #36
drag'nwagon
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1956 26' Cruiser Overlander
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airboss
So is it going to be "I LIKE IKE"??? Nice find Dave and Rhonda.. Tnx for the phone call about it too.. Looks like another axel job in the drive way to me...
Yes sir another axle coming up!! I just don't know if I will retain the srung axle or go torsion, any thoughts?
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Old 11-04-2007, 08:27 PM   #37
InsideOut
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Profile:  1964 19' Globetrotter
1956 22' Safari
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drag'nwagon
Shari,

My plan is to flat bed it over to a friend/vendor of mine that has about 50K sq ft to play with and an awesome fabricator on staff. At that point I think we can get it stable towable and get it home and then do the rest here.
Cool! I sure wish I had friends like that!
Quote:
Originally Posted by drag'nwagon
As for the belly pan, can you cut it say..5 inches to the inside underneath and then replace with a "smaller" pan riveted together under the trailer?
I'm not following what you are asking, but the key is to not remove the rivets at the beltline...they hold both the shell & the belly pan to the frame. Same rivets. However you cut/patch the belly is up to you.
Quote:
Originally Posted by drag'nwagon
I noticed in your thread that you had a bunk? By any chance do you still have it and would like to free yourself of it?
Yes we do have a bunk...it looks to be original. And while we don't 'need' it for sleeping arrangements because it's just the two of us, we do plan to keep it. Our kitty needs a hiding place and the extra storage space will be great! If we change our minds...I'll let you know.

Shari
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Old 11-05-2007, 06:06 AM   #38
Ken J
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Profile:  1958 26' Overlander
Tijeras , New Mexico
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Dave

No I accessed the frame by removing the belly - what I did ( you can see it here 1958 Overlander Restoration is cut the belly about 8-12" from the wrap all the way around and dropped that belly that way. In my case I did replace all the wrap and removed all the rivets that Shari mentions - a dicy situation I must say - but doable - your wrap actually looks ok, so I don't think you will need to that unless you do a shell off.

Good luck - keep the questions coming - we are here to help - and will feel you pain as you go through this restoration process - keep in mind there is an end to the project and it will get done!

Ken
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Old 11-05-2007, 07:09 AM   #39
InsideOut
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1956 22' Safari
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We have removed some of the bellypan/shell rivets attached to the get access to a portion of the frame from underneath. Our rear cross member needs to be replaced and the belly pan is damaged there. But the section is only across the rear and we've supported the shell from inside in the meantime. I guess the key is doing it in sections so the whole shell/belly is not loose at the same time. Like Ken said it's dicey...the whole thing gets kinda woobly when those rivets are detached.

Shari
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Old 11-05-2007, 09:48 AM   #40
Airboss
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1972 23' Safari
1965 17' Caravel
Howell , Michigan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drag'nwagon
Yes sir another axle coming up!! I just don't know if I will retain the srung axle or go torsion, any thoughts?
Oh my, I remember the last time we did a axel job in your driveway..Beer included in this one as well???
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Old 11-05-2007, 10:26 AM   #41
Rhonda
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Profile:  1974 31' Sovereign
1956 26' Cruiser Overlander
Lambertville , Michigan
Posts: 271

I kon't know the second axle job might require a special "recipe".
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Old 11-05-2007, 10:58 AM   #42
Airboss
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1972 23' Safari
1965 17' Caravel
Howell , Michigan
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Yes Rhonda thats very true!!!!!
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