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Old 09-02-2018, 05:41 AM   #113
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1956 22' Safari
Williston , Vermont
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Thanks David, it does feel good. I may now see a little pin prick of light at the end of the tunnel.

Work continues. The PRODEX is installed so the wiring can begin. I have now finalized the electrical design.
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I rebuilt the rear access door replacing the lock, handle and nameplate. All bought at Vintage Trailer supply. I've had some big boxes from them recently.
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All of the exterior lights have been rebuilt/replaced with LED's. Now installed it's starting to look like a trailer again.
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The trailer came with an antenna which was pretty ratty. Finally found a replacement at JC Whitney of all places. Haven't bought anything from them forever. $16 and free shipping, can't beat that.
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Old 09-02-2018, 05:54 AM   #114
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1966 22' Safari
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Mark, one thing to think about when insulating the end cap areas. I had about 1-7/16” of insulation at the end cap areas. That was too much in some spots. My end cap cavities varied from 1-1/2” to 3/4”. I ended up removing some of the Foamular and replacing with rock wool to fill voids. You’ve turned the corner on your 56. I especially like the original chimney cap. Keep up the good progress, Bubba
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Old 09-02-2018, 05:29 PM   #115
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Very nice stienVT: Your Safari is going to be worth a ton of money when you get it finished. Pot of gold at the end of the rainbow.

David
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Old 09-03-2018, 06:59 PM   #116
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Finished up 90% of the rough wiring today, both 12v and 120v. I ran out of the 14AWG triplex marine cable or I would have finished. I'll get some pictures tomorrow.

I can now start putting up the rock wool and was wondering if you guys found a good way to split it? It seems to not want to split cleanly.

Also I was using the 3M spay adhesive to put up the PRODEX and was not impressed. Seems like it will work even worse on the rock wool. What technique do you guys use? Spray both sides? Put in on really thick?

Thanks in advance.
Mark
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Old 09-03-2018, 07:12 PM   #117
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Mark, don’t know why the 3M is not working. I used it throughout the inside on the initial layer against the outer skin. I lightly sprayed the aluminum, then the back of the Prodex. I let it sit for a few seconds and stuck it. As far as the rock wool, no idea. Good luck, Bubba
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Old 09-04-2018, 08:05 PM   #118
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Insulation

Well, that was the trick. Spray both sides. Also works pretty well for putting up the rock wool onto the PRODEX.

The best way I found to split the rock wool is to use a large serrated knife cutting from both sides then cut the middle as you lift. Only took me a full bag of insulation to figure it out. I am working with the trailer in full sun. As the wool went up, I could almost feel the temperature dropping in the trailer.

A couple of pictures from yesterday. I finished up the 12v towing lights first. All lights were replaced with LED's and all connections used marine crimps with shrink wrap with adhesive cuffs.
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The joints seem very strong. Wires were supported with AL tape and went thru rubber grommets when ever they passed through a rib.
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The original trailer had three 115 circuits and no 12v circuits (except for the trailer running lights). It now has five 115v and seven 12v, so you can see I had to add a bunch of wire to add.
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Old 09-04-2018, 08:26 PM   #119
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Seam Sealer

This is a little out of order, but I wanted to get it into the record.

Before any insulation was up, I went through and resealed the joints and rivets from the inside of the trailer. Like most vintage trailers, this one had the black seam sealer on the end caps and roof. At first look it seemed OK, although with closer inspection, you could see it was dry and cracked.
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I found the brass brush attachment to my 4 1/2 grinder made quick work of anything I wanted to remove from the inside. This is the tool to use. It also removes skin quite nicely too.
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It's dirty work, but it comes out looking good.
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To seal it I used Eastwood Brush-able Seam Sealer. If you can image painting with Tempro 635 that is what it's like. Plan on throwing away the brushes as there is no cleaning them. Can't imagine how any water can work it's way in.
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Old 09-04-2018, 08:44 PM   #120
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Mark, kinda watch the wire brush wheel for the side grinder. I was using one a few months ago doing the same thing. One of the tiny 1” wires came off the wheel and stuck in my forearm. When I tried to pull it out, it disappeared into my arm. We went to the ER because I figured that was a bad thing. The Doc said if it doesn’t bother me, let it lay since my body would encapsulate it. Just one of the restoration hazards. Stay safe, Bubba
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Old 09-05-2018, 07:48 PM   #121
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Holly cow Kemosabi, that's a lot of circuits. You're making a CAD computer lab out of your Safari. You verified Airstream history as the "univolt" 12v for everything didn't come to production until the early sixties if I remember right. Old Mr. Byam wanted everyone to have all the comforts of home from a 12v battery and a propane tank. It kinda worked for a night or two. He added a battery charger to the mix when "shore power" was available. I think Airstream was a leader in this. Airstream did have park models with 120v water heaters, refrigerators, and outlets with minimum 12v stuff.

Getting the electrical installed is huge. The fresh water plumbing will be a piece of cake now that you have the holding tanks done.

David
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Old 09-06-2018, 03:57 AM   #122
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Holly cow Kemosabi, that's a lot of circuits.
David
Probably more than I needed, but some were run just to position the on/off switches where I wanted. My Safari was a park model so the only 12v was for a single light and it ran off of the car hookup. I also added separate circuits for the refrigerator and for a future microwave.

Here is what's going to run it all. It's a 100 amp hour AGM deep discharge and man is it heavy. It will be mounted under a bed in the rear.
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Old 09-06-2018, 06:03 AM   #123
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Wow....love the chimney. Looks fabulous!
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Old 09-06-2018, 10:02 AM   #124
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I love how people call their 1950s Airstreams "park models". There was no such thing. That's how all Airstreams and other brand travel trailers were back then. Basically no 12V except a dome lamp or two powered by the tow vehicle battery. Airstream was a leader in changing that, with a 12V battery and other 12V amenities, like water pumps and dual voltage 120V/12V lamps and fans, but no charger, first being part of the optional International package in 1958, and then becoming standard on all Airstreams by the early 1960s. The Univolt 12V battery charger first appeared in 1964 models, at which time the dual voltage lamps and fans were replaced with dedicated 12V devices.

Propane fridges and water heaters were options a couple years before the International package was created. Those were then integrated into the International package and finally became standard in the early 1960s.
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Old 09-07-2018, 03:54 AM   #125
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I love how people call their 1950s Airstreams "park models". There was no such thing.
Although there was no official model called the "park model", I can't think of a phrase that communicates the level of amenities better. With no black tank or battery it's likely most of the camping was done in parks. Not likely boon-docking in Walmart.
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Old 09-07-2018, 04:53 AM   #126
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Walmart? Maybe Sears, Monkie Ward, or JC Penny in the 50’s — any old photos of Airstreams in shopping center parking lots?

Bohacks in the east or Safeway in the west?

A different era for sure.

Your work looks great! Thanks for documenting it so well.

Peter
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