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Old 07-13-2018, 07:14 PM   #85
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1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
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Whew is right! I imagine you do get quite tired.

You've made a lot of progress and now have a new frame for your 56 Airstream. Many Airstreams have a spare tire mounted like you did. It is a great place for it, although it does leave a sizable cavity under the front floor that isn't insulated well. I haven't decided what to do with this spare tire well on my 75 yet.

I wonder if the Eastman coating is easier to apply than POR 15. Did you brush it on or spray, and how did it go?

David
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Old 07-15-2018, 05:04 AM   #86
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1956 22' Safari
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David, we put the Eastwood Chassis Black on with a brush. It went on very thin, a quart almost did the whole chassis. I bought a second quart which I am using to apply second coat and maybe a third where it will contact the belly pan.

Regarding the tire well, my plan is to build a aluminum box to protect the floor and frame from the elements and there should be enough room to have a layer of Prodex insulation under the floor.

Regarding insulating the rest of the floor, I think I am going to back to my original thought and glue and screw 1" foam directly to the plywood. 2" foam seems like overkill with all of that single pane glass and aluminum ribs creating a direct conduction path. Anyone think that's a bad idea?

HiHoAgRV, I thought about epoxy, but ended up using Olympic WaterGuard, Clear Waterproofer. I liked the way it soaked into the plywood and the way water just beads up on the surface. I plan on dribbling more WaterGuard on all the penetrations for the elevator bolts and edge bolts. I think that may be the principle path for water to get into the plies.

For the flooring we are planning on putting down Marmoleum sheet goods.

After the floor is secured and leveled, what would you guys think about laying the Marmoleaum so it even was under the C-channel? Seems like it would be a great barrier to water and would be so easy to install.

Mark
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Old 07-15-2018, 05:45 AM   #87
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1956 22' Safari
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Fender Wells

Another project that was kind of a PIA, but now is done was repairing the outer fender wells. They were in pretty good shape except the side pieces that attach to the outriggers were 90% gone. I also didn't like the way the inboard attachment was to the plywood with wood screws.
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What I did was to cut off the rust, paint everything with silver Rustoleum, add a galvanized section to extend the fender about an inch beyond the top of the outrigger and add a piece of 3/4" galvanized angle iron to be bolted to the outrigger. I used stainless steel rivets and bucked all the pieces together and then sprayed the interior with truck bed liner. Should be good for another 60 years or so.
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I also welded a one inch plate to the frame for the inboard rail to rest on which will use bolts and locking nuts instead of screws.
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Old 07-17-2018, 06:54 PM   #88
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I have used foam board for under subfloor insulation on the 86 and the 66. It does not absorb moisture and is pretty good insulation. I did use 4" in the 86 and 2" in the 66. It does cost more, and takes considerably more time to install than the fiberglass insulation. Worth it to me as it gets dang cold in Minnesota.

I do think I will use the fiberglass insulation in my 75 project because we now live in Colorado where moisture isn't an issue really and the temps are more moderate. And my trailers are stored inside out of the weather.

David
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Old 07-17-2018, 06:59 PM   #89
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1991 34' Excella
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I have used 1" foam in the belly and spaced it 1" off the floor to prevent water from ever touching the wood. I also taped every seam so I also got the insulating factor of an air gap. Dunno if it makes any difference but it was the way I wanted to do it.
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Old 07-18-2018, 06:20 AM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV View Post
I have used 1" foam in the belly and spaced it 1" off the floor to prevent water from ever touching the wood. I also taped every seam so I also got the insulating factor of an air gap. Dunno if it makes any difference but it was the way I wanted to do it.
I guess we are all on the same mind set...

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Old 07-18-2018, 07:32 PM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV View Post
I have used 1" foam in the belly and spaced it 1" off the floor to prevent water from ever touching the wood.
I like the idea of a space. How did you hold it in place? I was thinking construction adhesive and a couple of fender washers and wood screws. Also, what type of tape did you use? Thanks.

I guess great minds think alike.
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Old 07-19-2018, 09:22 AM   #92
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1991 34' Excella
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Our yet to be named, '56 Safari

I cut foam into 2" wide strips for the spacers. Starting off with adhesive (that quickly failed) I switched to spot taping it into place. Then I used fender washers and wood screws thru the foam and (foam) spacers. Sealing was done with aluminum duct tape, the kind you peel off the back to expose the most tenacious adhesive known to mankind.
Then only places I attached foam directly to the wood was in the corners. The '50's and '60's trailers don't have much space between the belly pan and the floor in those spots.
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Old 08-09-2018, 08:06 PM   #93
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1956 22' Safari
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Frame Status

Once again I have been negligent in posting my progress. Luckily my job is somewhat flexible so I have been able to apply some hours.

As of right now, all of the welding is done, the floor and insulation installed, C-channel installed and two thirds of the belly pans installed. Hoping to finish up the belly pan tomorrow, flip it and reconnect the shell next week.

Like any project, it really is just a collection of smaller projects. So here are some of those projects (for the record)

Added fish scales to both sides of the two butt joints in the frame. I was worried about these joints, but not any more.
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I ran the trailer brake wires thru rubber grommets in holes drilled in the cross frame members. Liked the idea of using an extension cord for raw material. Fairly cheap and with a new end, the left over cord works just fine. The connections are at the wheel and not buried in the frame.
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Here is some of the router work I used to provide clearance around the fender wells.
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This is a piece of aluminum used to close off the floor from the steps cavity
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All of the elevator bolts were double nutted with the final nut installed with blue locktite.
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Here is an aluminum box I built to seal off the spare tire compartment from the rest of the under body.
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I was able to reuse about half of the C-channel. The rest I had fabricated by the guys I buy my aluminum from. Hard to beat an 8' shear and 8' brake. I think it was about $50 for 24 feet. The yellow under the bolt heads is mil-surplus zinc-chromate primer. This should prevent or at least slow the galvanic corrosion. Not sure who's beer that was.
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So I used everyone's ideas regarding insulation. I ended up with an inch air gap and then two inches of foam board. I used 1" pink foam to act as a spacers and to seal the outer edges. Held it all together with construction adhesive and fender washers and wood screws. The corners were just the 1" pink board. It took only three sheets of the 2" foam and half a sheet of the 1".
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Old 08-09-2018, 08:40 PM   #94
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Mark, everything is well thought out and really looking good. I wish I would have layed the Marmoleum out on the chassis and cut to fit before I dropped the shell. Rolling and unrolling over the wheel wells to check the fit from the pattern was a pain. Also, Marmoleum has a tendency to kink when I rolled over objects. Kinks tend to create a crack in the Marmoleum surface. Just a thought. Good luck and keep up the good work. Bubba
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Old 08-10-2018, 04:09 AM   #95
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Marmoleum Template

Bubba, I bought a roll of construction paper, the stuff contractors roll out to protect the floor when working. It has come in very handy when making full size templates for the belly pan. I plan to make a full size template of the floor as soon as I flip it over.

I had even briefly thought about installing the marmoleum to the floor even before the C channel went on, but then decided there was no way to really protect it for the rest of the process. Seemed like a good way to completely seal the top surface.
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Old 08-10-2018, 04:26 AM   #96
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Sorry if an earlier post answers this, but is the floor standard plywood like AC? Wondering if you waterproofed the ply incl butt joints before assembly?

Thanks,

Peter
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Old 08-10-2018, 07:28 AM   #97
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1956 22' Caravanner
Don Pedro Island , Florida
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Nice Job...

Looking good...I wish I would of thought of the closing off the steps like you did.

I did my closing off after the fact..and yours is much cleaner. But hey it is done...

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Old 08-10-2018, 08:25 AM   #98
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Wow! That's craftsmanship! Anybody would be proud to own that!

A minor comment on your spare tire storage. Did you see the post where someone discovered that a blown tire and rim could slip out of the Airstream hanger? It did horrible to damage to the underside.
Yours may be safe, I can't tell if a empty rim could get out.
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