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SafariSteve · 10-26-2011, 12:20 AM

Well, I think the step is solid and good for another 55 years.

I repaired the one broken section of the step but wasn't happy with my laughable welding skills, so I added a 2" long piece of angle iron that really seemed to shore things up.

I had planned on welding a horizontal reinforcement piece in there, but decided that I'll stick with Wally's original design of bolting a piece of angle iron to the underside of the two pieces of plywood that meet at the doorway. (my welding difficulties had nothing to do with my decision... Really!)

I'll attach a few pics as soon as I grind down the offensive welding splatter and cover it all up with paint. :-)

Elf1 · 10-26-2011, 01:23 AM

Steve,
Very nice work on that step...I know how much you want to practice a bit...so CA is a such a short drive...My offer on the steak remains

Getting a welder in these parts is like finding gold ....need to get one lined up now for January ....seriously...they ALL work the windmill farms at millions of dollars a week, and really dont want any small jobs on the side....ohhhh the trials of CA living....

Keep up the posts...looking forward to sharing with you!
Elf 1

SafariSteve · 10-26-2011, 07:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elf1

Steve,
Very nice work on that step...I know how much you want to practice a bit...so CA is a such a short drive...My offer on the steak remains

Getting a welder in these parts is like finding gold ....need to get one lined up now for January ....seriously...they ALL work the windmill farms at millions of dollars a week, and really dont want any small jobs on the side....ohhhh the trials of CA living....

Keep up the posts...looking forward to sharing with you!
Elf 1

I bet this welding job won't get me a second job at a California windmill farm... Much less doing any repair for for Elf1, eh?

Luckily with a little grinding and a few coats of paint no one will be the wiser. Besides, it'll all be hidden under the new plywood anyway.
Judging by the broken bits, I think it must have been driven over a rock or curb or two at some time. Remember to put the step up before moving the trailer!

Looks aside, now the step is nice and solid. :-)

**HiHoAgRV** · 10-26-2011, 07:38 PM

Great progress SS! Ya might double check the operation of your step latch...in photo 4/5 where ya welded up that big-o-split, that MIGHT keep you from latchin/unlatchin the step. My '63 has a similar split that allows the front part to flex out and release the step.

Once again...great work!

SafariSteve · 10-27-2011, 12:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV

Great progress SS! Ya might double check the operation of your step latch...in photo 4/5 where ya welded up that big-o-split, that MIGHT keep you from latchin/unlatchin the step. My '63 has a similar split that allows the front part to flex out and release the step.

Once again...great work!

Thanks for the kind words HiHo!

The step seems to open and close just fine. My father in law (who unlike me has REAL welding skills) closed up that big-o-split, and I think it is as good as, if not better than new. Time will tell, though. I'm hoping it won't open up while driving down the road... I really don't want to have to fix it again!
:-)

SafariSteve · 11-26-2011, 03:29 PM

Here are a few pics of my skateboard wheel version of the infamous "Kip Roller."
I'll be attached a threaded pole of some kind to the end of the handle for more leverage, but so far it has worked well in a few areas of the belly pan.
I will be attacking this section soon.

hjlairf · 11-27-2011, 10:13 AM

Will you please explain how (and with what) you made the roller? Thanks.

SafariSteve · 11-27-2011, 04:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hjlairf

Will you please explain how (and with what) you made the roller? Thanks.

There have been a few posts about similar rollers. Its really a simple idea and one that has been around a long time. Some rollers are totally homemade, and other people have been able to find ready-made options. Everything from a metal-shop project to a formica countertop roller.

In my case, I worked with what I had in the garage... a heavy duty adjustable paint roller, a skateboard wheel, a suitable bolt, wing-nut and a few flat washers that gave it clearance to roll easily. I think a longer handle will give it more leverage... the paint roller handle is threaded so that's an easy option. Also if you can access both sides it will work better... more like an English Wheel.

hjlairf · 11-28-2011, 09:03 AM

Thanks. Will you please explain how you built the shaft to which the wheel is bolted? Is it the original shaft for the paint roller that you reconfigured?

SafariSteve · 11-28-2011, 10:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hjlairf

Thanks. Will you please explain how you built the shaft to which the wheel is bolted? Is it the original shaft for the paint roller that you reconfigured?

Yes. The shaft was already part of the adjustable paint roller handle. I looked around on line and this is the closest thing I could find.
http://www.thebossmaker.com/index.htm

As I said, I used what I had in my garage. I don't know how common these style of paint rollers are (I think mine was a gift) but I don't think I ever used it for painting.
Good luck!
-Steve

SafariSteve · 12-18-2011, 12:43 AM

Thanks to a helpful fellow Air Forums amigo, I was able to locate two sconces to match the one that we have in our trailer.

I've spent the last few evenings refurbishing one, and it's looking good. I still have to locate three new lamp inserts with the switch on the back, but the shade and base are looking great.
For the base I removed the latex paint, and applied a few coats of black Rustoleum hammer finish. Same with the base of the shade.

The fiberglass shade just needed a good scrubbing, a little 0000 steel wool rubbing and three or four coats of Penetrol. I'm happy with the results.

Two more to go.

SafariSteve · 02-06-2012, 05:21 PM

I'm finally ready to finish putting in new plywood for the subfloor.

Now this may sound strange, but my hang up has been what should have been a very simple thing: new wires for the trailer brakes.

Originally, one heavily sheathed wire containing two strands was fished through holes drilled through the frame along the center under the floor and above the belly pan, T-ing off to both wheels.

I couldn't find similar wire. The auto parts and home stores only had single strand. More than one salesman tried to send me home with wires for speakers, thermostats, lamps, or just said to zip tie two wires together. I sent in my question to The Vintage Airstream Podcast guys who said I could ask for trailer brake wire at any trailer parts counter. I asked at the Camping World parts counter and they thought I was from the moon.

Then it hit me... an extension cord. I had a 50-foot 12 or 14 gauge two wire (non ground) my son had chopped the end off while trimming a bush. Perfect!

I was a little worried about burying a nut connection at the T junction like they did back in 1956, and the guys at The VAP had a solution for that. Run one wire from the umbilical to one wheel, then connect another wire between the two wheels. No more connection buried between the belly pan and the subfloor. I could use all the original holes, and only have to drill one more for the connecting the two wheels together wire.

It's done now, and ready for me to install insulation and new plywood.
Whew! 'Bout time!!!