It's a girl!!!

InsideOut · 03-16-2008, 07:21 PM

We had hoped to get the frame welded sooner, so we could paint it before winter hit...thus be able to get the floor in and work throughout the winter. Didn't happen. So we had to wait for a day on a weekend to hit 50+ degrees so we could paint the frame. Finally, the end of February - even though there was snow still on the ground, we had a weekend of nice weather where we could but a propane heater inside the trailer and bring the tempurature up high enough to paint...which we did. Two coats of POR-15...did I mention we are doing a shell on floor replacement? Once the floor is in place and the shell re-attached, we will be dropping the belly pan to paint the underside of the frame.

drag'nwagon · 03-16-2008, 07:28 PM

Shari,

It is a great day when you get to work on vintage units. Glad your back posting again, we will be following your thread.

InsideOut · 03-16-2008, 10:22 PM

In the meantime, we have totally dismantled the door (found more resident yellow jacket nests) to replace the screen and fix the lock. We picked up several broken locks through ebay and ended up with enough pieces to have a working set and a back-up set and a few spare pieces. They are all out at the chrome shop...should get them back this week.

Shari

InsideOut · 03-16-2008, 10:34 PM

We re-screened the door with galvanized screen, fit the new insulation and then put our newly learned rivet bucking skills to the test. The door went back together rather easilt...no extra parts! Clecos are an amazing tool...nothing would substitute! The copper ones are smaller and those are where the pulled rivets go...the black are for the bucked rivets.

Oh yeah, once we got done putting everything back togehter - we polished the inner door a "first pass"...it'll be the only thing polished for quite some time ~ now we're just waiting on the hardware to come back ~ then we can seal her up!

Shari

InsideOut · 03-16-2008, 10:54 PM

This weekend, we finally got two sheets of the floor in! We used 3/4" marine grade A/B plywood. First we cut sheets (measure twice - cut once...especially @ $75 per sheet) then painted the edges with oil-based paint. The front and back curves are each one piece - no seams. It was no easy task, but do-able...each were eased (sloooowly) into place with a hammer. The shell & belly are loose from the frame so the skin is pretty flexible - enough that they could be inched in a little at a time. We used elevator bolts to attach the plywood to the frame where we could access it and get to the back side and self-drilling floor repair screws where we couldn't. Then hammered over the elevator bolts just like the originals were.

Shari

InsideOut · 03-16-2008, 10:58 PM

I didn't take any pictures with all the bolts in place...I will post them later.

We also got the three remaining floor pieces cut and painted ready to be installed next weekend...or maybe after work this week...but we are supposed to get 6-10" of snow tonite & tomorrow, so we'll see ~

Enough for now...glad things are finally moving along again!

Shari

**flyfshr** · 03-16-2008, 11:05 PM

Congratulations to the both of you. Getting that much of the floor in is a milestone and to be doing it in the chilly temps you guys must be having makes it all that much more rewarding. One question - what's holding the shell to the frame? You guys must be having a few winter winds up that way.

Brad
FF

InsideOut · 03-16-2008, 11:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flyfshr

Congratulations to the both of you. Getting that much of the floor in is a milestone and to be doing it in the chilly temps you guys must be having makes it all that much more rewarding.

It does...and now with Daylight Savings Time and warmer weather on the way (not tonite!) we will be able to work in the after work soon!

Quote:

Originally Posted by flyfshr

One question - what's holding the shell to the frame?

Nothing really...the belly pan, c-channel and body are all attached. The belly is attached to the underside of the frame and the c-channel/shell is held up with 3/4" blocks of wood and c-clamps at each outrigger and the front & back of the frame. The ribs come down and rest on the wood blocks which are kinda wedged in there. We took them out a couple at a time to paint. Now that the front and back are in, the blocks have been removed.

Here's an older picture that shows the wood & clamps in place. It's been like that thoughout the winter...no problems, but it certainly couldn't be moved!

Shari

yukionna · 03-17-2008, 05:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by InsideOut

...Once the floor is in place and the shell re-attached, we will be dropping the belly pan to paint the underside of the frame.

Looking good! How do you keep all the insulation from dropping out of the floor when you drop the belly pan?

InsideOut · 03-17-2008, 07:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yukionna

How do you keep all the insulation from dropping out of the floor when you drop the belly pan?

Right now it's placed there temporarily with tape holding it up...when we drop the belly we will attach it to the plywood from underneath.

Shari

uwe · 03-17-2008, 07:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by InsideOut

This weekend, we finally got two sheets of the floor in! We used 3/4" marine grade A/B plywood. First we cut sheets (measure twice - cut once...especially @ $75 per sheet) then painted the edges with oil-based paint. The front and back curves are each one piece - no seams. It was no easy task, but do-able...each were eased (sloooowly) into place with a hammer. The shell & belly are loose from the frame so the skin is pretty flexible - enough that they could be inched in a little at a time. We used elevator bolts to attach the plywood to the frame where we could access it and get to the back side and self-drilling floor repair screws where we couldn't. Then hammered over the elevator bolts just like the originals were.

Shari

Shari,
I was able to slide whole floor pieces into place last week, while replacing the flor on a client project. The shell is flexible enough to over-extend enough to where the sheet slides in towards teh street side, then past ( slight stretch of the shell outwards) and then back under the curbside c-channel. That way the sheets retain their integrity and strength. No center seams necessary.
Congrats on the great progress.

Aerowood · 03-17-2008, 08:04 AM

Thats the same same way that I did it too.

InsideOut · 03-17-2008, 08:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Uwe

I was able to slide whole floor pieces into place last week, while replacing the floor on a client project.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aerowood

Thats the same same way that I did it too.

Nice to hear we are in good company! We didn't want seams down the middle and for our own reasons, chose not to do it shell off. So far it's working out fine...

Shari

Ken J · 03-17-2008, 08:29 AM

I did the seam down the middle - you learn things after you do it - if I did it all over again, I would do it as you have done and I would have used 3/4" plywood.....

No need to take the shell completely off - I did mine with just a few rivets holding in the front - scary, but it worked well.

Ken