The Double Nickel Project - 1955 Flying Cloud

[Bubba L]

Matt, we are starting our master re-wire plan on our 55. The detailed drawings you posted blurr when they’re enlarged and become unreadable. From what I can see:
I did notice several GFCI receptacles on the same circuit. The down stream receptacles are protected by the first one. Also, heavier loads like the AC and microwave are typically put on dedicated circuits as well as the fridge because you don’t want anything else to bring down the fridge.
Your 55 is looking great. Keep it up. Bubba

[pdavitt]

Matt,

Since you have a blank slate to work with and you are installing solar, I highly recommend you talk to the folks at AmSolar. https://amsolar.com/
They can help you with the overall system design.

The load wiring is the simplest part of the process. You are building a fairly complex electrical system; component choice and sizing are critical. Below is an example of a Power Wiring Schematic I did for a project I am working on. It is more complex than your project, but it gives you an idea of what you are dealing with.

Please feel free to PM me if you wish.

Thanks,
Pat

[MattB]

Gents, thanks for the feedback. I want to digest and do a little adjusting for an update. I very much appreciate it.

I will take a look at the landscape wiring as I still haven't figured out exactly which wire type to use.

I appreciate the feedback on the load wiring. As I mentioned, I don't have a clue, and will update accordingly. I also still need to figure out the connectivity between the major components (batteries/convertor/solar/etc.). Pat, I have a ways to go to follow you sketch, but I will figure it out.

With an update, I have some better ways to get it into a picture file.

Thanks again!

[MattB]

Another pdf copy of the current plan.

12V Plan.pdf

[MattB]

Been reading and working on the plan. It probably doesn't look like much, but am hoping this makes more sense. I had a short talk with Best Converter and ordered a converter, and an AC/DC distribution panel, and a few other elements. I still need to update how the distribution panel sets up, but will wait until I see it to finalize. Hopefully this one comes out a bit more clear.

12V Diagram.jpg Views: 225 Size: 84.4 KB ID: 303886" style="margin: 2px" />

[MattB]

I am still looking for feedback on the electrical plan, but another update as I go. I have been rewiring my cargo trailer for some practice.

Added the front trim pieces with new replacements from VTS. The old ones were past it. In several places, I had to grind off the steel screws that held them in place originally.



Gently worked them into position. Close but not able to match the curve. Then some measurements to get it centered.




Originally I planned to use aluminum screws to hold it in place. Unfortunately, the aluminum screws weren't getting the job done. So... a bit of extra Trempro in the holes, and I riveted them into place. With the assistance of a rubber mallet kept it aligned and laid it flat. Easier than expected.

[HiHoAgRV]

I was able to reuse the trim pieces but typical Airstream gremlins, they didn't line up too well for reassembly. The front one took a little fussing but the rear was a total pain! The slope of the rear makes the trim droop as it rolls forward. It took me HOURS with a rubber mallet to whip it into place.

[MattB]

Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV

I was able to reuse the trim pieces but typical Airstream gremlins, they didn't line up too well for reassembly. The front one took a little fussing but the rear was a total pain! The slope of the rear makes the trim droop as it rolls forward. It took me HOURS with a rubber mallet to whip it into place.

I can relate, though for me it was getting them off. My description above does not relate the difficulty I had. It was easier to get the shell back on as a whole.

My experience involved a 2+ hour exposition on creative swearing as I broke the heads off of screws, searched for hidden one, tore up aluminum, and finally resulted in the use of power tools with brute force and ignorance.

On the back piece I found the the temporary liberal use of duct tape kept things in place.

[goransons]

MattB, thanks for sharing that, I'm glad I'm not the only one to have episodes of that. Since my trailer is painted I was thinking of painting them separate and putting them on after the paint is done, but your thread has me wondering if I could manage to do that without scratching everything up. I'm thinking now I need to install them and paint after. The question becomes to caulk the top or not.. Did you just let it flow through or did you seal it?

[MattB]

Originally Posted by goransons

MattB, thanks for sharing that, I'm glad I'm not the only one to have episodes of that. Since my trailer is painted I was thinking of painting them separate and putting them on after the paint is done, but your thread has me wondering if I could manage to do that without scratching everything up. I'm thinking now I need to install them and paint after. The question becomes to caulk the top or not.. Did you just let it flow through or did you seal it?

I would not try to caulk the top, as it seems a recipe for an untidy mess that would be difficult to make look right. I used Trempro in the rivet holes, and on the inside of the c-channel wherever a rivet came through.

I have a similar dilemma when I come to my interior panels. I am putting in clean new aluminum for most of it, and will have it clear coated. That said, I don't want to mess up the surface of the sheets while installing. I am thinking that I will install the panels before having them clear coated, even though it will be pain in the butt to spray paint or clear coat in an enclosed space and that I think the coating would go on more evenly if done outside the trailer.

[MattB]

I've received some of my electrical components this week after ordering. Hoping to start this weekend.



Any feedback on the plan?

[Iansk]

Its not hard to seal the tops of trim, it is time consuming though.
My method is to tape off the skin above the trim to an exacting line of 1/8" then use an oral syringe (free at CVS or Walgreens) pre-loaded with trempro to lay my bead along the upper edge of the trim. Come back with a mineral spirits moistened rag to wipe off the excess and knock the bead down, 2 or 3 passes. Peal the tape, drink a beer.
Would have to look really close to see it, but it's sealed. I leave bottom of the trim open, as it were.

Ian

[MattB]

I have been working on further updates to electrical plans as I have been able to figure things out. In the absence of direct work on the 1955, I rewired my cargo trailer for practice, and replaced the toilet in my 2012 Flying Cloud.

Forcing myself to draw everything out to show where every single wire goes has been helpful, but I could use some feedback on whether it all is correct and makes sense.

The complete plan is attached here. 12V Circuits.pdf Views: 28 Size: 635.4 KB ">Electrical-IRJDSUNE9932123321222xxeww-Plan-IRJDSUNE9932123321222xxeww-with-IRJDSUNE9932123321222xxeww-12V-IRJDSUNE9932123321222xxeww-Circuits.pdf

Here are some circuit diagram excerpts.






Some questions that still remain:

1) Is there anywhere on these I need additional diodes, grounds, or fuses outside of the circuit panel?


2) Is there anywhere else I will need to put in dedicated grounds for the system, and whether these need to go to the chassis or the shell/frame?


3) Which circuits need to come back to a negative bus bar (which is connected to the negative terminal on the battery, but not shown) and which can simply go to ground?


4) Can I use the same wire for the 110V stuff? I have seen recommendations for basic 14/2 stranded, landscape wire, etc. I can afford to have some left over, I have two more trailers to wire, and soon a third as I am looking for a canned ham for my mother.

Appreciate any help!

[MattB]

I updated the floor plan and cabinet layout, and have been finalizing the design of the cabinet.



This should allow me to finalize the locations for the wiring runs to terminate.

I would like to start this weekend, but haven't received much feedback for my questions. I would still appreciate any help.

Also, looking for the best way for three and four way wire junctions as I put together the circuits?

I have reviewed a number of wiring guides, but there are some very basic aspects that I am not familiar with.

Thanks!

[flyfshr]

Here's a diagram I drew up for my 12 volt electrical system using the shell as the ground. Hope this helps.

Brad
FF

[goransons]

Matt I had a long response written any my computer froze and dumped it. In a nutshell, things look good. Keep it simple, protect each circuit in one central location as close to the source as practical. That way in the future things are easy to troubleshoot.

I used the plastic snap in bushing for all the holes I drilled, they are much easier to install than rubber grommets and you can pull wires without accidentally pulling them out. I found long paddle bits helped me safely drill the bows without risking damaging the outside skins.

The double stick tape zip tie anchors from Home Depot's electrical isle make attaching wires near where they come out of the skin easy and are also helpful for routing wires inside of cabinets etc.

[MattB]

Thank you gentlemen. Scott I appreciate the tips and I did not even think of the snap in devices. I’ll be looking for some of those as well.

For the connectors, that go between three different wires I was looking at these: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F380868479894

[MattB]

These last couple weekends have been a bit of a disappointment for progress. I am still not feeling warm and fuzzy about my circuits and electrical plan. This week my electrician, bowed out from helping, not having any experience with trailers. I feel like I am 95% of the way there on the plan, but not 100% on the circuits. Obviously I want to ensure this is right before committing resources and enclosing hazardous electricals in the wall.

And perhaps more distressingly, my kegerator died after eight years of loyal service. Early in this thread some long time ago, I decorated the first kegerator in an aluminum theme. I don't know what the standard lifespan of used chest freezers is, but this last one died after eight years and one magazine appearance.

The new one incorporates some of the old body panels from the trailer, along with a new addition I found on eBay relating to my latest trailer acquisition.

[MattB]

A little bit of progress. The running lights and most of the 7-way plug seem to be working. I would like to have them checked but that will follow.

I had hoped for a bit more direct help on the plan and circuits, at least locally, and haven't found the right folks. I don't feel fully comfortable with the plan and the circuit designs. So later this week to one of the RV dealers here in Kansas City.

In any case, the tail lights appear to be working. Note, timing a flashing turn signal signal is not that easy, but it is definitely working after resolving a grounding issue.

[MattB]

More on the wiring soon, as I am finally able to start making some progress, thanks to those that have contributed and commented and pm’d.

To wrap up the license plate. Although much to my dismay, according to the state office for vehicle licensing, while a resident of Kansas may register a vintage vehicle, a vintage trailer is a different story. Maybe I need to try another representative.

First about three layers of primer, then about three of base black.



Then three cuts of white lettering, touched up by hand. Then a couple layers of clear coat. Now to find a way to display it and remain legal with my actual trailer plate.