The Double Nickel Project - 1955 Flying Cloud

[MattB]

It continues to seem very odd to me that windows and panels never really line up as before. “How did you spend 60 years like this and not line up? Nothing has changed, only less dirt.” Once I did get it pretty close, I finished cleaning up the original sealant in order to put in new Trempro and butyl tape inside and outside respectively.



First one and then the other window is riveted through the back frame seal. One of the problems with the windows in this configuration is that the frame and sill are very close to the vertical rib and prevent the bucking bar from fitting in far enough to touch the rivet for bucking. My son, bucking for me, used the enclosed end of a 1-1/4” wrench to buck the vertical line of rivets between the window and rib. Easy enough once we figured what was big and heavy enough to work, but small enough to fit.



The finished windows work great.

[MattB]

Remembering some of the reasons for this project:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=et82azCcuP8

[MattB]

The trailer seems to be coming together from the inside perspective.

[Byams55FlyCl]

Originally Posted by Colin H

Hey Matt,

Cool trailer! As you've been listening to The Vintage Airstream Podcast | Vintage Trailer Restoration , you know that I have a 55 whale tail FC in the shop that we are doing a complete restoration on. You can follow the blog that's attached to my website. We have done some creative things to allow 30 gallons of grey tanks & 30 gallons of fresh water tanks in the bellypan cavities without having anything hang below the bellypan. The layout in this trailer is pretty unique & may appeal to you.

Good luck with your project, it'll be lots of fun!

Colin

My trailer!

[MattB]

Originally Posted by Byams55FlyCl

My trailer!

Speaking of which, I can't find any updates on your trailer. How does it look now?

We keep trying to get up your way for a rally but haven't been able to work it out yet. Hopefully soon.

[MattB]

Time for the forward panel to come off. Too many holes in in from the PO and their deadbolts. Creases from collisions.

First the number plate--carefully stowed. Then mark the position of the door frame on the floor. It will be loose as soon as the panel will come out.



The same glue is between the panels, but with the heat gun and a little goof off it is taken care of easily enough.



Soon the panel is out. Time for a quick vacuum to clean things up.

[Byams55FlyCl]

Originally Posted by MattB

Speaking of which, I can't find any updates on your trailer. How does it look now?

We keep trying to get up your way for a rally but haven't been able to work it out yet. Hopefully soon.

We've been rallying with the VACmidwest a couple times a year! I think we are doing more rallies than other regions...hope they catch up when we are rolling again.

Updating the blog is on my to do list. Right now I'm reading yours again. My current task is the couple rebuild, so I'm back to page 2!
:-D

[MattB]

Previously, I purchased amber running lights from another vendor that not named Vintage Trailer Supply. The aluminum backing is flimsy, and I am not enthused about the color or the apparent lack of weather resistance. Fortunately, I got what I paid for, and they weren't very expensive either.

I notice that Vintage Trailer Supply now seems to offer a better quality LED version in both red and amber.

I have never conclusively figured whether the originals (as mine did not have them when purchased) and whether they were amber or red. I seem to remember seeing other threads such that there was some debate. The few photos that I have see of contemporary trailer seem to indicate that the trailer originally came with amber.

I am not so secretly hoping that it is actually red. I think it looks better, and I regard yellow as a bad luck color.

Does it matter? Can I use my 2012 as a guide? Can I just use what I am inclined to?

[HiHoAgRV]

Dunno why but I've always used yellow on the front and red on the rear, sides and endcaps.

[Bubba L]

I've always placed amber forward and red aft. After reading the DOT trailer light regulations, it's confusing. I've often wondered why some vintage Airstreams have three lights on the high front and center, and some don't. On the federal lighting equipment location requirements, the center marker lights are discussed. Good question, but not sure what is legal or required on a sixty two year old Airstream. I have the side marker lights from VTS but a ways off from installing. Hope to hear more. Thanks

[HiHoAgRV]

My '63 was wired for the overhead lights but didn't have them. I guess it was an option. I added them 'cause they look cool

Edit. We didn't install them on a '55 whale tail 'cause they didn't look cool.

My opinion, your milage may vary

[MattB]

Originally Posted by Bubba L

I've always placed amber forward and red aft. After reading the DOT trailer light regulations, it's confusing. I've often wondered why some vintage Airstreams have three lights on the high front and center, and some don't. On the federal lighting equipment location requirements, the center marker lights are discussed. Good question, but not sure what is legal or required on a sixty two year old Airstream. I have the side marker lights from VTS but a ways off from installing. Hope to hear more. Thanks

Yes, KDOT is not helping. From the Kansas state patrol website:



OK, this would not seem to be the case based upon what I have seen in practice.

[MattB]

I purchased this trailer in the Puget Sound area in Washington state. There are plenty evergreen trees that drop sap.



Plenty of sap found the top of this trailer. Goof-Off seems to work best of the litany of solvents and cleaners that I have accumulated.

[MattB]

Trying to catch up again on posting. Work has been slow but steady.

Thought I might clean up the area around the vents in anticipation of installing new ones so they might have a clean place to seal.



Test fitting and attaching the new panel in place. I wanted to ensure everything was lined up and spaced properly. With a little trimming, it went together properly. Learning a lesson, I also left more overlap between the sheets of the body panels where I could. I also anchored the door frame after marking its precise location to ensure it did not move while the panel was out.





Cleaned up the serial number plate and then test fitted the door again, to double check the frame location. Happily, you can also see that the correction to the door curvature and refitting also improved the fit. Where there was a much larger gap and top and bottom on the outside edge of the door compared to the hinge side before, now the curvature matches the trailer and is tight.

[MattB]

Front panels coming off. Just rough.





Then a bit of clean up and polishing on the vent covers and other accessory elements.

[Bubba L]

Matt, on your front panel that you replaced, there are two holes on the curb side of the
panel. One is the fresh water fill. I assume the other is for the air jet to pressurize the tank? Thanks, Bubba

[MattB]

Bubba, I was unable to determine what that second hole was for. I had thought that the air fixture was inside the trailer. The only element of the interior that my trailer came with was the flush valve for the commode. All of my vintage trailers have been rescue situations keeping them from the scrapper essentially.

Someone with a more original trailer could provide a better answer than I can.

[MattB]

Some shots of the front curbside corner panel taken out and used as a template.







Then fit into place.



It was challenging to get it to line up in exactly the original position. I had to do some trimming and re-aligning to get everything to come together smoothly. But eventually, one just needs to go for it and start drilling, put in bit of sealant and rivet it together.

[MattB]

More shots of putting in the front curbside panel. One can see how much I needed to trim. Not sure why it was the case. I did a lot of readjusting but could not quite make it work. But in the end, it looks very nice once the plastic comes off.

[MattB]

Reinstalled the interior cross bracing into the curbside front panel as I peeled the plastic, and it looks very nice.



Took out the streetside front panel, traced and cut a new one, and then figured out an easier way to brace the panel and the one above it together in a way that matched the original alignment better. A simple Z-shaped bracket I cut from some scrap helped retain the position very easily.





Once in place, riveted and cut the new center front panel to shape, and started to test fit.